Dr. Video Games 0031 posted:

Using the monitor's audio output is a often a valid option in these cases. I've had a speaker set that I sent the monitor's 3.5mm line out to, and then I plugged my headphones into the speakers. That way, anything plugged into the monitor can use it as their audio device, and you can get audio out of multiple devices without external switches or manually switching cables. Not all monitors have clean audio outputs though (or any audio output at all), so your mileage may vary. I eventually switched to an external USB DAC with multiple outputs and inputs.

Chuu posted:

I've gone down a bit of a rabbit hole looking at direct contact CPU cooling. The gains are incredibly impressive for the cost, especially if you're likely already going to buy a contact frame.

Something I've been having trouble getting a good answer though is about what materials to use in the junction. I've seen people say that you absolutely have to use liquid metal and cannot use thermal paste for . . . well different reasons. Meanwhile I've also seen videos of people using graphine pads, but I thought graphine pads were a convenience thing and not as good as the best thermal paste?

What's the actual story here? What can and can you use in the thermal junction, and why?

Volcott posted:

Accidentally damaged a displayport 1.4 cable because I did not know locking cables were a thing. Anyone have a Brand they'd recommend for a decent-quality replacement?

Eletriarnation posted:

Club3D's DP cables are high quality and VESA certified, though they do have the button locks as well.

If you don't like the button locks, I've had good experience with the AmazonBasics cables.

HalloKitty posted:

Somewhere the HDMI port designer with his friction only design is cheering whilst his "latching-is-superior" DisplayPort buddy is weeping.
He just wanted your cable to stay plugged in. He thought the big button was big enough

Tatsujin posted:

Tatsujin posted:

I redid the Storage Pool with the correct Interleave, but why isn't giving me the option to remove any drives or prep them for removal, I could have sworn I re-did it right for RAID6-ish, see NumberOfColumns and PhysicalDiskRedundancy, just worried if a disk drops again Ill add a new one and be unable to remove the old one:

code:

PS C:\Windows\system32> Get-VirtualDisk "Parity" | Select-Object *


Usage                             : Data
NameFormat                        :
OperationalStatus                 : OK
HealthStatus                      : Healthy
ProvisioningType                  : Fixed
AllocationUnitSize                : 1073741824
MediaType                         : Unspecified
ParityLayout                      : Rotated Parity
Access                            : Read/Write
UniqueIdFormat                    : Vendor Specific
DetachedReason                    : None
WriteCacheSize                    : 1073741824
FaultDomainAwareness              : PhysicalDisk
ColumnIsolation                   : PhysicalDisk
ObjectId                          : {1}\\RURI\root/Microsoft/Windows/Storage/Providers_v2\SPACES_VirtualDisk.ObjectId="
                                    {8fa153ca-848a-11eb-ba70-806e6f6e6963}:VD:{ef013e94-f147-4239-806f-6dc81b53c375}{4f
                                    6a5c41-bad3-4e9f-899a-4ae82a74236c}"
PassThroughClass                  :
PassThroughIds                    :
PassThroughNamespace              :
PassThroughServer                 :
UniqueId                          : 415C6A4FD3BA9F4E899A4AE82A74236C
AllocatedSize                     : 35987530973184
FootprintOnPool                   : 47989011775488
FriendlyName                      : parity
Interleave                        : 131072
IsDeduplicationEnabled            : False
IsEnclosureAware                  : False
IsManualAttach                    : False
IsSnapshot                        : False
IsTiered                          : False
LogicalSectorSize                 : 4096
Name                              :
NumberOfAvailableCopies           :
NumberOfColumns                   : 8
NumberOfDataCopies                : 1
NumberOfGroups                    : 1
OtherOperationalStatusDescription :
OtherUsageDescription             :
PhysicalDiskRedundancy            : 2
PhysicalSectorSize                : 4096
ReadCacheSize                     : 0
RequestNoSinglePointOfFailure     : False
ResiliencySettingName             : Parity
Size                              : 35987530973184
UniqueIdFormatDescription         :
PSComputerName                    :
CimClass                          : ROOT/Microsoft/Windows/Storage:MSFT_VirtualDisk
CimInstanceProperties             : {ObjectId, PassThroughClass, PassThroughIds, PassThroughNamespace...}
CimSystemProperties               : Microsoft.Management.Infrastructure.CimSystemProperties

wash bucket posted:

That button doesn't work for poo poo. You tell him I hate his rear end.

Magnetic North posted:

Couldn't find a better place for this question.

I'm considering replacing my USB dock with a USB-C dock for a few reasons. It might be getting a bit flaky (hard to tell sometimes) and to make my life a little easier so I don't have to gently caress with cables as often. USB-C is the one with the power on the cable so you can just send the computer the start up signal from the dock without opening it right?

Beyond that, I don't really need anything fancy. Two HDMI cables for monitors is the only thing I think might be remotely unusual. Other than that, just Ethernet, at least 3 usb ports for keyboard mouse and webcam, headphone jack, etc.

Any recommendations? I saw some extremely cheap ones on Amazon but I'd like this to last a few years at least.

Hippie Hedgehog posted:

A used Dell WD19 would be a good choice. They’re available dirt cheap on eBay and similar, since it was such a popular product. Just make sure a PSU is included that’s beefy enough for your laptop. (It’s compatible with Dell chargers if you already have one of those.)

Magnetic North posted:

The one I have is a Dell 3100 (USB 3.0) and both my current laptops are Dells, so that's probably a decent sign. How do I tell if it's got enough juice? Just look at the power brick and compare Wattages or is it more complicated than that?

Hippie Hedgehog posted:

A used Dell WD19 would be a good choice. They’re available dirt cheap on eBay and similar, since it was such a popular product. Just make sure a PSU is included that’s beefy enough for your laptop. (It’s compatible with Dell chargers if you already have one of those.)

kri kri posted:

And if you purchase one update the firmware on it.

Hippie Hedgehog posted:

Hm. I didn’t do that, yet. Any particularly egregious bugs in those?

~Coxy posted:

I got a 2070 Super off someone and it has a stupid breathing effect on the side LEDs.

When I run OpenRGB, it isn't detected.
In the library of devices, I see 30x0 devices so I have to assume they are very similar.

Is there a simple way to control this effect, if even to turn it off?

~Coxy posted:

I got a 2070 Super off someone and it has a stupid breathing effect on the side LEDs.

When I run OpenRGB, it isn't detected.
In the library of devices, I see 30x0 devices so I have to assume they are very similar.

Is there a simple way to control this effect, if even to turn it off?

~Coxy posted:

I got a 2070 Super off someone and it has a stupid breathing effect on the side LEDs.

When I run OpenRGB, it isn't detected.
In the library of devices, I see 30x0 devices so I have to assume they are very similar.

Is there a simple way to control this effect, if even to turn it off?

PirateBob posted:

Is there reason to think that PSUs will change over the next 1-2 years? Any reason not to buy one on sale now even though I don't plan on building my next system this year?

LRADIKAL posted:

You do want to have positive pressure in your case. Do you have any more front fan slots or bottom ones?

Eletriarnation posted:

In my experience performance is less consistent for USB adapters than for PCIe ones, but they do usually work as advertised. I would recommend getting the kind that has actual antennas instead of a little stub, not just for better signal strength but also to get farther away from potential USB 3 interference.