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Is $16 (CAD) a good price for a USB to RS232 DB9/DB25 converter? As pictured here http://www.cablesonsale.ca/index.php/catalogsearch/result/?q=serial&x=0&y=0
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May 2, 2016 23:31
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Subyng posted:Is $16 (CAD) a good price for a USB to RS232 DB9/DB25 converter? As pictured here http://www.cablesonsale.ca/index.php/catalogsearch/result/?q=serial&x=0&y=0 That goes for $9 USD in the US, so it could be better, but if you were to import it it'd probably cost about the same as the price off of that site. And incidentally it's widely regarded as a good adapter.
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May 2, 2016 23:36
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The videocards you are considering are barely faster than the Intel integrated graphics you have. Frankly, your company needs to hire a consultant that knows about computers to help them make smart decisions or they will just keep throwing away money like it's going out of style.
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May 2, 2016 23:49
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melon cat posted:Is there any quick and dirty way of determining whether this GPU would even be compatible with our existing hardware? I was really keen on just restricting our upgrade options to better RAM setup, which is what you guys suggested. But our management team was told that we can easily acquire a bunch of NVIDIA NVS 510s, so they got all excited about it. But I don't even know if it'll work with our Lenovo workstations at to begin with, and I'm really not at all familiar with the NVIDIA NVS GPUs. They're pretty crap-tier as GPUs go, looks like a Quadro version of the GT 630 (Kepler version). But if you need the Quadro drivers then I guess they're fine (Quadros get real expensive real quick). They're low-profile so they'll fit in anything, and that looks like a standard mid-tower sized case. But to answer your question, unless a case gives you dimensions or the card is obviously incompatible (eg dual-slot card when you only have a single slot on the rear panel) then no, there's no easy way to tell whether a card will fit.
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May 3, 2016 00:22
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Paul MaudDib posted:They're pretty crap-tier as GPUs go, looks like a Quadro version of the GT 630 (Kepler version). But if you need the Quadro drivers then I guess they're fine (Quadros get real expensive real quick). They're low-profile so they'll fit in anything, and that looks like a standard mid-tower sized case. Alereon posted:The videocards you are considering are barely faster than the Intel integrated graphics you have. Frankly, your company needs to hire a consultant that knows about computers to help them make smart decisions or they will just keep throwing away money like it's going out of style.
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May 3, 2016 15:24
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melon cat posted:If it's crap-tier then it's all I need to tell them! Thanks for the info. I'm less worried about compatibility if it's not even a significant upgrade, at this point. Quadro cards have special drivers (but are otherwise the same), and they're typically not as powerful as gaming GPUs - for example that card would have been a mediocre perfomer even 2-3 years ago. NVIDIA charges out the rear end for them, too. But if you are doing CAD work or rendering they are the right tool for the job. Maybe get a more powerful one in that case. I think the default recommendation for a low-end GPU is the 750 Ti or GTX 950 at this point. Below that you might as well use an integrated GPU. The GTX 970 or a R9 290/290X/390/390X are good for higher-end performance as long as you don't need ISV-certified drivers. Get an aftermarket cooler on a R9 card. The GTX 780 Ti is good for single-precision floating-point compute, the GTX Titan is good for double-precision floating-point compute - these are the same chip as the high-end Tesla compute cards, minus the error-correcting memory. Perfect for number-crunching on a budget, they're the starving grad student's Tesla dev machine. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 17:42 on May 3, 2016 |
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May 3, 2016 17:40
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Well, installed a Coolermaster 212 (what a pain in the dick). Now even while running around in a game I'm sitting around 30-35 after running a while. Is that more reasonable? Does that give me enough headroom? I think my thermal paste might suck. It looked weird after I took the sink off after a failed install. I also have a pretty old case with not very good airflow. I'm going to keep monitoring it while I play some games to make sure it doesn't spike too high. My network card apparently only wants to work in the first PCIe x1 slot, which is really cramped between the heatsink and graphics card. Is there any way to fix that? 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 18:45 on May 4, 2016 |
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May 4, 2016 03:28
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This is more of a firmware question but I don't know a better place to ask this. I have an ASUS Z170-A Motherboard and I need to update the bios from factory default. I have the page open for the latest update (Version #1702) but I keep hearing horror stories online as much as 5 months old to 18 days old about how anything above 1102 causes boot loops and won't get past post. Is there any truth to that? I'm not sure if I should just go ahead and try my luck hoping ASUS sorted this stuff out, or if I should just only upgrade as high as 1102 until I have more information.
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May 4, 2016 22:44
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I didn't really know where to ask this but this seemed like the best thread to do it so here goes. I have three SSDs, all Samsungs. An 830 (256gb), 840 PRO (256gb), and an 850 EVO (500gb). Currently, I have win7 installed on the 830 (due to getting this as my first SSD and slowly getting the others over time). When it comes time to install Win10, should I install it on the 850 EVO? CrystalDiskInfo says all my SSDs and my lone HDD are at 100%/Good health status.
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May 6, 2016 21:59
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Ryuga Death posted:I didn't really know where to ask this but this seemed like the best thread to do it so here goes. I have three SSDs, all Samsungs. An 830 (256gb), 840 PRO (256gb), and an 850 EVO (500gb). Currently, I have win7 installed on the 830 (due to getting this as my first SSD and slowly getting the others over time). When it comes time to install Win10, should I install it on the 850 EVO? CrystalDiskInfo says all my SSDs and my lone HDD are at 100%/Good health status. You should definitely install Windows on your fastest/largest SSD for best results, and that would be that 850 EVO for you.
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May 6, 2016 22:34
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fishmech posted:You should definitely install Windows on your fastest/largest SSD for best results, and that would be that 850 EVO for you. Thanks! Does this mean I will need to reformat all my drives when I install win10? My 830 is currently used for programs/OS/some games, 840 is for steam games, the 850 only has GTA5 on it, and my hdd is just a bulk storage drive for music, pictures, etc.
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May 6, 2016 22:39
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Ryuga Death posted:Thanks! Does this mean I will need to reformat all my drives when I install win10? My 830 is currently used for programs/OS/some games, 840 is for steam games, the 850 only has GTA5 on it, and my hdd is just a bulk storage drive for music, pictures, etc. There is no need to format your existing drives. Your best way to do things easily would be to make a Windows 10 USB flash drive to install from, and then unplug everything but the 850, and plug the 850 into the connector you're currently using for your boot drive. This way, you can't mess up and accidentally install on one of the other drives. Then, after Windows 10 is installed, plug the other drives back into the remaining connectors, and you can copy your stuff off of them if needed.
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May 6, 2016 23:13
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Do you still get free activation if you install from scratch?
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May 6, 2016 23:31
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Well, installed a Coolermaster 212 (what a pain in the dick). Now even while running around in a game I'm sitting around 30-35 after running a while. Is that more reasonable? Does that give me enough headroom? I think my thermal paste might suck. It looked weird after I took the sink off after a failed install. I also have a pretty old case with not very good airflow. I'm going to keep monitoring it while I play some games to make sure it doesn't spike too high. My 1x network card fits in a similar place on my board. If you have another PCI-E 4x or a spare 16x slot (assuming full ATX) you could try sticking the card there instead. future ghost fucked around with this message at 23:44 on May 6, 2016 |
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May 6, 2016 23:41
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Paul MaudDib posted:Do you still get free activation if you install from scratch? Yes, if you have a valid Windows 7 or 8/8.1 key to enter in setup.
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May 6, 2016 23:45
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Paul MaudDib posted:Do you still get free activation if you install from scratch?
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May 6, 2016 23:47
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Thanks, never actually done a raw W10 install on virgin hardware, I've always done the upgrade and reset afterwards. What's the limit for hardware-based licensing? Mobo+processor serials?
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May 7, 2016 02:39
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So I asked this a few pages back, but basically I wanted to move from my lovely RAM that's only 1333mhz to a 2133mhz kit, but it appears my motherboard doesn't support anything higher than 1600mhz. I bought the kit anyway since I'm thinking about finding an old z77 board so I can overclock my CPU, but I'm a little curious about something, the spec page for my board says it supports up to 2200mhz but with (OC) in brackets, which I assume means that's as high as it goes through boost bclk? Or something? I have no idea. I enabled both XMP profiles anyway and it's still at 1600mhz, and I can't see a way to boost the clock of the memory manually. This is the board here, it's lovely and low end http://www.gigabyte.com.au/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4150#sp I've also made sure I'm on the latest BIOS revision for the board. And here's what the memory looks like installed through CPU-Z   Is there any way to get it up to its proper clock? Or do I just need a new board?
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May 7, 2016 10:59
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cat doter posted:Is there any way to get it up to its proper clock? Or do I just need a new board? Alereon fucked around with this message at 16:01 on May 7, 2016 |
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May 7, 2016 15:56
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Anyone keeping up with the news on the GTX 1080? Is it really as good as it sounds?quote:NVIDIA CEO Jen-Hsun Huang revealed that it's faster than its current performance king, the $1,000 Titan X, as well as three times as power efficient. quote:The GTX 1080 will be available for $599 on May 27... the GTX 1070 is coming on June 10 for $379.
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May 7, 2016 16:40
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We'll find out as soon as independent sources start posting benchmarks.
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May 7, 2016 16:42
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fishmech posted:Yes, if you have a valid Windows 7 or 8/8.1 key to enter in setup. Did this change? I thought you pushed the upgrade from 7/8 to 10, and then if you clean install 10 it activates based on your hardware signature, not your 7/8 key.
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May 7, 2016 17:51
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Geoj posted:Did this change? I thought you pushed the upgrade from 7/8 to 10, and then if you clean install 10 it activates based on your hardware signature, not your 7/8 key.
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May 7, 2016 18:11
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e: nvm
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May 8, 2016 02:59
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Alereon posted:The motherboard manual says the frequency settings appear if XMP is disabled, or are the higher frequencies just not listed in those dropdowns? Honestly if you're not happy with your system performance to the point where you'd consider a new board, I'd just get a new CPU too and jump to Z97+devil's canyon. I originally planned on getting a motherboard that could overclock but had to get this poo poo one initially since the place I bought my stuff from didn't have the board I was after. Plus I don't have a ton of money and going to a new board is the cheapest way to get a performance increase, more memory bandwidth and CPU clock and whatnot. But yeah, I disabled XMP and the clock settings are still just greyed out and won't let me change anything. Same with the memory multiplier. There doesn't appear to be a way to manually change the memory frequency at all. I'm beginning to think the advertised 2200mhz support is just a straight up lie.
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May 8, 2016 03:26
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Is it worth adding a RAID controller to my Gigabyte J1800 home server? There are only two SATA ports on the board and I'm running two mechanical drives in there at the moment: one containing OS and data, with a weekly cron job to rsync the data from the main drive to drive 2. There's a mini PCIE slot on the board and I'm thinking about increasing storage and adding some proper redundancy.
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May 8, 2016 07:26
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DeaconBlues posted:Is it worth adding a RAID controller to my Gigabyte J1800 home server? There are only two SATA ports on the board and I'm running two mechanical drives in there at the moment: one containing OS and data, with a weekly cron job to rsync the data from the main drive to drive 2. If you want more SATA ports but are otherwise OK with the performance of your solution then I think you have your answer. I would consider using ECC for a fileserver but that's your own risk to run. The Athlon AM1 processors support it - most of the motherboards don't but the Asus AM1M-A does. Or you can step up to an Avoton or Xeon. Most server-oriented boards will come with more SATA ports natively instead of having to futz with it.
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May 8, 2016 09:18
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I'll have a look at AM1, since low power is a priority. Cheers!
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May 8, 2016 13:43
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Lungboy posted:No, I didn't clean the chip or heatsink as they were straight out of the box, and the heatsink had thermal compound on so I didn't add any extra. I'll take it apart and reseat it all. I did run a Prime95 cpu heavy test and it got to 106 104 98 98 Reseat with new Arctic MX2 paste seems to have fixed it, Prime95 torture test gets the max core temps to 68.
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May 8, 2016 14:42
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If I want to transfer all my content from one drive to a drive it's replacing, can I get away with just clicking and dragging everything, then giving it the same drive letter? The hard drive is just music files and steam/origin games.
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May 10, 2016 00:21
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Mutant Standard posted:If I want to transfer all my content from one drive to a drive it's replacing, can I get away with just clicking and dragging everything, then giving it the same drive letter? Yes, this is the easiest way to do it. You might also want to do this in the command prompt: xcopy D:\* E:\ /E /C /G /H /R /Y Where D: is your source drive and E: is the destination. The flags mean Copies all directories and subdirectories, Continues copying even if errors occur, Allows copying of encrypted files, Copies hidden and system files, Overwrite read-only files, Suppresses prompts to overwirte.
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May 10, 2016 00:26
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fishmech posted:Yes, this is the easiest way to do it. What command prompt?
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May 10, 2016 00:28
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Mutant Standard posted:What command prompt? The Windows command prompt. Press the start button and then type in "command prompt" and it should come up.
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May 10, 2016 00:30
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fishmech posted:The Windows command prompt. Press the start button and then type in "command prompt" and it should come up. oh right, duh. so do I just do this instead of clicking and dragging? Automata 10 Pack fucked around with this message at 00:35 on May 10, 2016 |
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May 10, 2016 00:32
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wait so I ran the command, and it said a XXXXX files copies but I don't see anything in the SSD that's replacing the drive.
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May 10, 2016 00:39
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Did you initialize/format the new drive or is it straight out of the box? You need to create a volume on it first in Disk Management.
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May 10, 2016 00:40
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It appears in my "Devices in Drives" with it's own letter (G:) And I did a quick format on it
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May 10, 2016 00:43
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Do I need to run it as administrator?
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May 10, 2016 01:08
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Mutant Standard posted:Do I need to run it as administrator? Did you try refreshing the drive's folder?
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May 10, 2016 01:19
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Running it as administrator worked. edit: yyeeup, looks like everything's been copied and Steam didn't mind at all. Automata 10 Pack fucked around with this message at 04:31 on May 10, 2016 |
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May 10, 2016 02:08
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