Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice

fishmech posted:

There is basic driver support for ATI Radeon HD 4600 Series on AGP slots and a few other ATI cards. There's also a few random NVidia AGP cards that still work.

In both cases you will not get as good performance as in Windows 7, but they will be able to handle the desktop and such.
While you have a good point that there were Radeon HD 4600 AGP cards that have a supported legacy driver in Windows 7, that doesn't help much for newer versions of Windows. Running with the Microsoft Basic Display Driver isn't really "working", especially since he said he needs hardware acceleration for online video.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


This seems the most relevant place to ask for suggestions and I apologize if I missed somewhere better. One of my users got a 2tb SSD drive that he wanted to slap into an external enclosure. I bought him https://amzn.com/B00DW374W4 but I think it is failing or has decided it doesn't like his Surface book and will randomly decide to unmount itself or completly bork his keyboard attachment requiring a reboot. I tested using a different external SSD and didn't have any issues so I'm hoping I just need to get a different enclosure.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a 2.5" compatible external drive enclosure? Does not need to be USB3, I just need it to be reliable as hell because he kind of abuses his gear. Also I need to buy it from Amazon. Thanks for any suggestions!

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Raymn posted:

This seems the most relevant place to ask for suggestions and I apologize if I missed somewhere better. One of my users got a 2tb SSD drive that he wanted to slap into an external enclosure. I bought him https://amzn.com/B00DW374W4 but I think it is failing or has decided it doesn't like his Surface book and will randomly decide to unmount itself or completly bork his keyboard attachment requiring a reboot. I tested using a different external SSD and didn't have any issues so I'm hoping I just need to get a different enclosure.

Does anyone have any suggestions for a 2.5" compatible external drive enclosure? Does not need to be USB3, I just need it to be reliable as hell because he kind of abuses his gear. Also I need to buy it from Amazon. Thanks for any suggestions!

I've been very happy with this sabrent one. It seems to be a good controller and USB 3.0 gets decent speeds. I can't promise it's bulletproof but I've never had any weirdness:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LS31KQG/

TITTIEKISSER69
Mar 19, 2005

SAVE THE BEES
PLANT MORE TREES
CLEAN THE SEAS
KISS TITTIESS




fishmech posted:

There is basic driver support for ATI Radeon HD 4600 Series on AGP slots and a few other ATI cards. There's also a few random NVidia AGP cards that still work.

In both cases you will not get as good performance as in Windows 7, but they will be able to handle the desktop and such.

Edit: To be clear this is for Windows 10. For Windows 8/8.1 there's full driver support for those cards with no performance impact, and same for Windows 7.

Thanks, did a bit of Googling and somebody got an nVidia 6200 AGP on an Opteron board (mine is similar) working in both Windows 8 and 10:

http://www.tenforums.com/performance-maintenance/6909-lets-run-win10-really-really-old-hardware-6.html

Think I'll go for a cheap nVidia card from eBay, and just try one OS at a time.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

Wilford Cutlery posted:

Just for fun and curiosity, I'm thinking of reviving an old desktop of mine. Last OS I used on it was Vista. For the sake of driver support in Windows 7, 8/8.1, or 10, should I replace the video card? It currently has an ATI FireGL X1, so I'd need an AGP or AGP Pro card if I should replace it. Don't need gaming performance, just for web videos and streaming.

EVGA still has some AGP cards in their B-stock store from time to time, you might want to check that out.

TITTIEKISSER69
Mar 19, 2005

SAVE THE BEES
PLANT MORE TREES
CLEAN THE SEAS
KISS TITTIESS




Paul MaudDib posted:

EVGA still has some AGP cards in their B-stock store from time to time, you might want to check that out.

6200 AGP with 2 year warranty for $43, not bad. Thanks!

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE
I got a replacement laptop battery (Lenovo Thinkpad W510) and I think I over-discharged it. Windows says it's 100% charged, the laptop's battery light is flashing "critical", and it powers off if I remove the AC adapter. Is there any way to recharge it a little bit so that Windows might take over? I have an R/C charger that can do LiPo/LiIon chemistry.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

Wilford Cutlery posted:

6200 AGP with 2 year warranty for $43, not bad. Thanks!

FYI their B-stock only has a 1-year warranty. It's likely enough time for it to fail if it's going to, but it's not 2 years.

I assume the one with the DDR2 is better?

edit: 1 year, not 90 days

Shaocaholica
Oct 29, 2002

Fig. 5E
I had a EVGA 6200 PCI in a PIII system and that ran Win7 with aero.

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


Rexxed posted:

I've been very happy with this sabrent one. It seems to be a good controller and USB 3.0 gets decent speeds. I can't promise it's bulletproof but I've never had any weirdness:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LS31KQG/

Thanks for the suggestion! The first review actually more accurately describes what was happening with the previous one and got me looking to replace it:

quote:

I initially suffered from some of the similar issues other folks reported here; for re-iteration purposes they include a) freezing your computer's USB bus b) not mounting the hard drive c) seeing the hard drive, but can't transfer data d) randomly disconnecting and e) slow response.

Have you ever run into any of these? Obviously a YMMV sort of situation like all things but it sounds like a common issue if two different brands can have the same sorts of problems.

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice
Keep in mind that there could be a lot off variation based on how good the USB controller in your computer is (Intel will work best), how current your drivers and BIOS are, how much power your USB ports supply, and interactions between the enclosure and drive. For example, an enclosure could work great on all computers with one drive, but only work on some machines, or intermittently, with a drive that uses more power.

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


Alereon posted:

Keep in mind that there could be a lot off variation based on how good the USB controller in your computer is (Intel will work best), how current your drivers and BIOS are, how much power your USB ports supply, and interactions between the enclosure and drive. For example, an enclosure could work great on all computers with one drive, but only work on some machines, or intermittently, with a drive that uses more power.

Why can't I just throw more money at the problem to make it go away?!

Flipperwaldt
Nov 11, 2011

Won't somebody think of the starving hamsters in China?



Raymn posted:

Why can't I just throw more money at the problem to make it go away?!
You can! Just keep buying different drives, enclosures and computers until you've got a combination that works.

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


Flipperwaldt posted:

You can! Just keep buying different drives, enclosures and computers until you've got a combination that works.

Hmm, you've got me there. I'd really prefer not to have to work through trial and error but I guess I don't have a choice. I'll give the suggested enclosure and hope for the best.

TITTIEKISSER69
Mar 19, 2005

SAVE THE BEES
PLANT MORE TREES
CLEAN THE SEAS
KISS TITTIESS




Paul MaudDib posted:

FYI their B-stock only has a 1-year warranty. It's likely enough time for it to fail if it's going to, but it's not 2 years.

I assume the one with the DDR2 is better?

edit: 1 year, not 90 days

It says 2 years right there on the B-stock website.

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice

Raymn posted:

Why can't I just throw more money at the problem to make it go away?!
That's why Samsung sells external SSDs :)

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Raymn posted:

Thanks for the suggestion! The first review actually more accurately describes what was happening with the previous one and got me looking to replace it:


Have you ever run into any of these? Obviously a YMMV sort of situation like all things but it sounds like a common issue if two different brands can have the same sorts of problems.

I've never had that particular problem but as mentioned in the followup posts there's no guarantee. It's possible it's the same USB controller since they're both cheap chinese enclosures and would act the same way, unfortunately.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

Wilford Cutlery posted:

It says 2 years right there on the B-stock website.

Are we looking at different things? :confused:



Don't get me wrong, a year is still plenty of time for a piece of hardware to fail if it was going to, I was thinking it was 90 days at first. But it's not the full EVGA warranty.

Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 22:03 on Jun 11, 2016

TITTIEKISSER69
Mar 19, 2005

SAVE THE BEES
PLANT MORE TREES
CLEAN THE SEAS
KISS TITTIESS




Why does your price say $7.99?

EDIT: Weird, I swear when I first looked I saw one for $42.99 that said 2-year warranty. Can't find it now, though really I'm not worried about it. The card is cheap enough that if it craps out and the warranty is useless, I'd get another if I really want to keep that machine going.

TITTIEKISSER69 fucked around with this message at 05:54 on Jun 12, 2016

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

Wilford Cutlery posted:

Why does your price say $7.99?

EDIT: Weird, I swear when I first looked I saw one for $42.99 that said 2-year warranty. Can't find it now, though really I'm not worried about it. The card is cheap enough that if it craps out and the warranty is useless, I'd get another if I really want to keep that machine going.

I guess they also have new-old-stock: http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=512-A8-N403-LR

I was looking at the B-stock: http://www.evga.com/Products/ProductList.aspx?type=8&family=GeForce+6+Series+Family&chipset=6200

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP
I asked this in the monitor megathread but got no response and thought this might be a better place:

I dug my old Samsung 940bw out of storage to use as a secondary monitor. I downloaded the most recent (2007 i think) drivers from Samsung and installed them, but I can't get the monitor to display its native resolution of 1440x900. That res isn't in the drop down list. The monitor is defaulting to analogue mode, presumably because it's on a vga cable with a dvi adapter, so I installed the analogue drivers but still no dice. Is it as simple as needing a dvi cable for that res? That doesn't seem right to me. If it's not that, what else could it be?

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice

Lungboy posted:

I asked this in the monitor megathread but got no response and thought this might be a better place:

I dug my old Samsung 940bw out of storage to use as a secondary monitor. I downloaded the most recent (2007 i think) drivers from Samsung and installed them, but I can't get the monitor to display its native resolution of 1440x900. That res isn't in the drop down list. The monitor is defaulting to analogue mode, presumably because it's on a vga cable with a dvi adapter, so I installed the analogue drivers but still no dice. Is it as simple as needing a dvi cable for that res? That doesn't seem right to me. If it's not that, what else could it be?
Try it with a DVI cable and see what happens, I don't think there's much point in troubleshooting until you have a digital cable connected.

Alereon fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Jun 13, 2016

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP

Alereon posted:

Try it with a DVI cable and see what happens, I don't think there's much point in troubleshooting until you have a digital cable connected.

Thanks, I'll give it a try. However.....My pc just died. I was just starting path of Exile after some browsing and it shut down. Not a restart or anything, from fully on to fully off instantly. Now when I press the power buttons all the fans whir up and then stop and nothing happens. Any ideas what might be dying?

E: and as I typed that it fired up again.
e2: for no reason i can understand I have a feeling the psu is dying. It's ~8 years old, a Corsair HX620w. Is there any way to test it?

Lungboy fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Jun 13, 2016

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice
There isn't really an effective way to test power supplies other than swapping in a different model, because the things that actually causes issues are stuff like voltages dipping down for such a short fraction of a second that you'd never see it appear on a reading. It would make sense that an 8 year old power supply would no longer work, especially if you have a high-draw videocard. It DEFINITELY won't give you near 600W anymore.

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP

Alereon posted:

especially if you have a high-draw videocard.

I have a gtx 560, 8 gig ddr2, an ssd, 2 hdd, and a q6600 on an MSI P965 Platinum in an Antec Nine Hundred case.

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice

Lungboy posted:

I have a gtx 560, 8 gig ddr2, an ssd, 2 hdd, and a q6600 on an MSI P965 Platinum in an Antec Nine Hundred case.
I wouldn't call that high-draw, but honestly since that system is like 9 years old basically anything could be dying. Trying a different power supply is a simple fix if issues persist.

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP

Alereon posted:

I wouldn't call that high-draw, but honestly since that system is like 9 years old basically anything could be dying. Trying a different power supply is a simple fix if issues persist.

Thanks. I've been eying up a new system for a while, and I guess a new psu now is easily ported over if I decide to pull the trigger on a full new setup. I'm thinking rm550x, I can't see myself needing more and the hx620 has always been perfect.

Saukkis
May 16, 2003

Unless I'm on the inside curve pointing straight at oncoming traffic the high beams stay on and I laugh at your puny protest flashes.
I am Most Important Man. Most Important Man in the World.
How I've understood the PSU discussions in here, is that since the PSU is such a vital and dangerous you wouldn't dare to use such an old one if you build a new computer, so might as well start the debugging with new PSU. A slightly faulty PSU can probably kill a new motherboard, but a slightly faulty motherboard probably wouldn't kill a new PSU.

A new PSU would also be compatible with any other new hardware you buy, unless you switch to SFX case or something. If you first buy a new motherboard it needs to be compatible with your old CPU. If that doesn't fix it you might try a new CPU, but that also needs to be compatible. And if that isn't either and you then end up swapping the PSU you will realize you probably should have bought the CPU and motherboard with newer architecture.

But first you could test the memory with Memtest++ even if the symptoms don't suggest it, since it's simple and pretty reliable test. Other components are more difficult to test.

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice
550W is rather weak for a new power supply, but as long as you don't ever plan to use a higher-end videocard in the system it should be fine. A power supply with a higher current rating would provide cleaner power, more efficiently, at lower noise levels, likely for years longer. In many cases manufacturers also use lower quality components and reduce the build quality on their lower-capacity models.

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP

Saukkis posted:

How I've understood the PSU discussions in here, is that since the PSU is such a vital and dangerous you wouldn't dare to use such an old one if you build a new computer, so might as well start the debugging with new PSU. A slightly faulty PSU can probably kill a new motherboard, but a slightly faulty motherboard probably wouldn't kill a new PSU.

A new PSU would also be compatible with any other new hardware you buy, unless you switch to SFX case or something. If you first buy a new motherboard it needs to be compatible with your old CPU. If that doesn't fix it you might try a new CPU, but that also needs to be compatible. And if that isn't either and you then end up swapping the PSU you will realize you probably should have bought the CPU and motherboard with newer architecture.

But first you could test the memory with Memtest++ even if the symptoms don't suggest it, since it's simple and pretty reliable test. Other components are more difficult to test.

I think I agree. Can't hurt to run memtest as you suggested, will give it a go.

Alereon posted:

550W is rather weak for a new power supply, but as long as you don't ever plan to use a higher-end videocard in the system it should be fine. A power supply with a higher current rating would provide cleaner power, more efficiently, at lower noise levels, likely for years longer. In many cases manufacturers also use lower quality components and reduce the build quality on their lower-capacity models.

I'm waiting to see what the new rx480s are like, would probably go itx so no need for sli etc.

Lungboy fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Jun 13, 2016

CORN NOG
Sep 25, 2003

eh, better than wadded beef i guess?

Trying to find a decent wireless headset for Overwatch chat. I'd probably have it around my neck 90% of the time for the mic, and use my surround system for audio.

Leaning towards the Corsair Void at the moment. Anyone here have one? Is it comfortable on your neck, or do the earpieces get in the way? And how is the positioning on the mic? Would it be close enough to my mouth to pick up, or would I need to have them on my ears?

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

CORN NOG posted:

Trying to find a decent wireless headset for Overwatch chat. I'd probably have it around my neck 90% of the time for the mic, and use my surround system for audio.

Leaning towards the Corsair Void at the moment. Anyone here have one? Is it comfortable on your neck, or do the earpieces get in the way? And how is the positioning on the mic? Would it be close enough to my mouth to pick up, or would I need to have them on my ears?

Why not buy a desk mic like a Blue Snowball or Yeti? The Snowball is more directional so probably better if you're planning on using speakers, but that's probably going to be an issue even with a headset.

Ideally you really want to have headphones when using a microphone, and frankly most gaming headsets are built like poo poo anyways. Nice music headphones and a desk mic or an Antlion ModMic are really the way to go.

CORN NOG
Sep 25, 2003

eh, better than wadded beef i guess?

Paul MaudDib posted:

Why not buy a desk mic like a Blue Snowball or Yeti? The Snowball is more directional so probably better if you're planning on using speakers, but that's probably going to be an issue even with a headset.

Ideally you really want to have headphones when using a microphone, and frankly most gaming headsets are built like poo poo anyways. Nice music headphones and a desk mic or an Antlion ModMic are really the way to go.

My pc is in the living room, and I can't have cables running to the couch or the dog will run through them (yep, learned that one the hard way :( ). Unfortunately most of the options out there seem to be either gigantic ~xtreme gaming~ monstrosities, or $200+ business/call-center voip headsets. I tried using a bluetooth dongle+mic, but it doesn't play well with Overwatch.

Ideally, I'd like something light and small enough to be comfortable around my neck, but have acceptable enough sound quality for the 10% of the time I need to use the headphones. The Corsair seems like it might do, but the way the headband and mic boom are angled it's hard to get an idea from pictures whether it would work on my neck

Ularg
Mar 2, 2010

Just tell me I'm exotic.
I can never seem to manage to use the right words to google stupidly specific issues. I'm not sure why but past couple days my second monitor will be disabled when I turn it on. Say from start up I have both my monitors on, if I'm not using the second monitor I just turn it off from the power button. PC doesn't care, I can still move stuff between the two monitors as if it were turned on. But when I DO turn my second monitor back on the PC switches to single monitor mode and I either have to unplug and replug the HDMI cable or reboot the computer to get the second monitor to accept the signal.

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
I bought one of those n3000 NUCS (ASRock BeeBox) to replace a rpi as a media player.

I took ram out of my laptop I haven't used for a few years (SO-DIMM DDR3 204 pin.) which is on spec for the NUC, but am getting MULTIPLE_IRP_COMPLETE_REQUESTS and IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL BSOD on attempting to install win7 or 10.

I've tried 3 different hard drives and a couple of different USB drives (but none are usb3 spec) for the iso installation but get the same errors, this is pointing to my RAM making GBS threads the bed right?

I've prepped the win7 USB drive with the USB3 update available on the ASRock and Intel website. (https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/25476/Windows-7-USB-3-0-Creator-Utility)

Going to run memtest86 when I get home.

Paul MaudDib
May 3, 2006

TEAM NVIDIA:
FORUM POLICE

CORN NOG posted:

My pc is in the living room, and I can't have cables running to the couch or the dog will run through them (yep, learned that one the hard way :( ). Unfortunately most of the options out there seem to be either gigantic ~xtreme gaming~ monstrosities, or $200+ business/call-center voip headsets. I tried using a bluetooth dongle+mic, but it doesn't play well with Overwatch.

Ideally, I'd like something light and small enough to be comfortable around my neck, but have acceptable enough sound quality for the 10% of the time I need to use the headphones. The Corsair seems like it might do, but the way the headband and mic boom are angled it's hard to get an idea from pictures whether it would work on my neck

Buy a 10 meter USB 2.0 active extender and run it around the perimeter of the room, running to a hub. Put a rug over any runs that cross a walkway, so nobody trips over it. Use a USB mic and get a cheap USB DAC to drive the headphones. You can also plug your mouse/keyboard/controller into the hub too and get those out of the way (I personally hate using wireless keyboard/mice/controllers).

Gaming headsets are crap and you're better off not using them. I haven't used one for about 2 years since I got tired of replacing them every 6 months, so I unfortunately don't have any real recommendations there :(

In theory Overwatch should work with any audio device - they're all just WDM output sources or whatever. It really shouldn't be able to tell what it is outputting to. Are you 100% sure that you selected it in Overwatch and/or that it was selected as default in Windows, and everything was paired right and so on? Maybe try turning the bitrate down in the Windows audio settings panel?

Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Jun 16, 2016

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice
Sounds like bad RAM, or just not compatible. What RAM are you trying to use?

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak
Brand is hynix 10600 2x 2gb kit. 1333mhz 204 pin ddr3.

Spec sheet says it should be okay, but im just thinking that it's probably bit the dust.

Alereon
Feb 6, 2004

Dehumanize yourself and face to Trumpshed
College Slice

Puddin posted:

Brand is hynix 10600 2x 2gb kit. 1333mhz 204 pin ddr3.

Spec sheet says it should be okay, but im just thinking that it's probably bit the dust.
That's not compatible, you're trying to use DDR3 in a DDR3L system. The voltage is lower (1.35v instead of 1.50v) so the RAM won't work without errors. Pick up some decent DDR3L 1600 and you should be good.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Puddin
Apr 9, 2004
Leave it to Brak

Alereon posted:

That's not compatible, you're trying to use DDR3 in a DDR3L system. The voltage is lower (1.35v instead of 1.50v) so the RAM won't work without errors. Pick up some decent DDR3L 1600 and you should be good.

Cheers. Don't I feel stupid.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply