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Aside from running chkdsk and checking SMART values is there anything I can do to see if my external hardrive sustained damaged? Cause it took a swan dive 3 feet down onto carpet. Wasn't spun up but I'd like to make sure before I transfer all the files off of it.
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Jan 16, 2015 01:44
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It passes Seagate's external hard drive tool diagnostic but there's quite literally no information that comes from what the result generates; its just a pass or a fail.
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Jan 16, 2015 02:49
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cisco privilege posted:Is that a long test or short? I've seen dying drives pass a short test. Either way I wouldn't trust the drive with anything important personally. If you're talking Seatools for Windows the program doesn't detect any hard drives at all. Seagate's dashboard program for externals has a test that it passes.
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Jan 16, 2015 03:37
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Dolphin Fetus posted:I'm not a hardware expert at all but I really need an answer for this: If you're running Intel processors use RealTemp.
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Feb 17, 2015 07:21
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suddenlyissoon posted:So I got a 4790k and a H100i yesterday and installed them in my Air 240 case. I knew my temps would be higher due to it being a small case but I'm sort of worried something might be wrong with the fans/pump or I might have screwed up the installation. I'm getting about 35-38 degrees at idle but it has dropped down to 30-33 a few times. My biggest problem is gaming where Battlefield 4 & Hardline are running in the 50-60 degree range. Worst of all is Cities Skylines where I've seen it range in the 70's and hit 81 once. I realize that it's a multithreaded game and it's punishing as hell on processors but it's stlil worrisome. I don't really want to redo the thermal paste with Arctic Silver but is that my best option if I'm sure my fans are set up properly? What program are you using to see what the temps are, RealTemp? 50/60 are in the normal range for running on a stock air cooler, 81 is worrisome as hell. You really shouldn't be hitting any temps over 72-75ish if possible. Having that temp on water means something is up.
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Apr 5, 2015 03:02
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Sinking Ship posted:If my cat knocked my external hard drvie onto the floor and now it doesn't work, no power light, not detected by PC... am I just boned? If it's in an enclosure you can open it to try and see if the drive itself works as the enclosure may be busted. Otherwise, yeah.
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Jun 10, 2015 14:49
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Off the top of my head avoid Gigabyte and anything with a Killer NIC on board.
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Jul 25, 2015 06:10
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I bought another SSD and I completely forgot that I only had two Intel SATA 6gb/s slots on this motherboard. Should I stick it on the Marvell 6gb/s slot or put it on one of the SATA 3gb/s slots or should I be looking for a PCI-E controller? My motherboard is a P8P67 LE so I'd really rather not do the PCI-E controller route as the cable routing and airflow issues are bad enough without a card butting against my 970.
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Dec 4, 2015 21:52
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Rexxed posted:Is it your third SSD? Put it on a marvell controller port. If not, put a non-SSD drive on one. Yes, it's my 3rd SSD. 
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Dec 4, 2015 22:49
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Alereon posted:Intel SATA300 port. Are the Marvell controllers truly that bad?
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Dec 5, 2015 01:04
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Are there any decent CPU coolers that use the push pin configuration? My case is so old I'd have to remove the motherboard entirely in order to access the back.
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Dec 9, 2015 00:54
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Moola posted:So I got my mobo donated to me by a friend years ago; one of the heatsinks on the board has a tiny 40mm fan screwed onto it which is now getting loud and probably about to die. Mind taking a picture of it or listing the board model? It sounds like a southbridge fan.
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Dec 10, 2015 02:54
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I've always used coffee filters for cleaning thermal paste primarily because they don't leave crud around when you're done.
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Dec 22, 2015 16:57
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If I remember right when I cloned my OS partition I needed to go into the Windows install disc and repair the boot partition.
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Dec 27, 2015 16:39
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I put a new cpu cooler on (versus the stock that I've been using since forever) and whoops I didn't take into account clearance with memory sticks or fan direction. So now I've got a CPU fan trying to pull cool air from the same 1 inch space that my chassis fan is trying to push hot air out.
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Dec 30, 2015 20:06
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Geemer posted:What kind of cooler? If it's like the CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Evo you can just mount the fan on in reverse so it pulls air through the heatsink and out the chassis. CoolerMaster Hyper TX3, so it shouldn't be a problem to unhook it and switch it around. I need to reapply thermal paste in a different manner anyways.
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Dec 31, 2015 02:10
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I replaced my VH236H with a VH238H (basically the same model except the CCFL bulbs are replaced by LEDs) and god drat is this thing eyesearingly bright.
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Jan 15, 2016 13:27
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Geoj posted:If you're only seeing that temperature while running a Prime95 (or similar) stress test I wouldn't worry too much because most applications - even high end games - you use on a regular basis aren't going to peg the CPU across all cores for extended periods. R6 Siege is the only game that I've seen max out a CPU during a match. It's pretty astounding actually.
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Mar 7, 2016 02:18
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Minorkos posted:The fan is running at least, though not exactly at blazing speeds. It's the stock cooler. don't know about the heatsink or anything like that, though. I don't have any of the tools or thermal paste needed to start screwing around with it, so it's probably going to be the easiest to just take it to a local computer repair shop and ask how much they'd charge to look it over. Maybe I'll replace the CPU altogether, considering it's getting pretty old. Repasting it is a pretty painless process, since you're using the stock cooler its just turn the pins, pull up, and clean up the old paste. You probably also want to see if there's any dust between the fins as well. Good thermal paste costs at most 12 or 13 bucks unless you go ~exotic~ and get metallic ones. When you pull up the stock fan you should however make sure you have a copper base to it and not an aluminum one. Aluminum bases are coupled with slower/shittier fans because they're only supposed to be on i3 model CPUs.
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Apr 7, 2016 00:19
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Triikan posted:This thing is pretty drat old, but provides a TON more power than I would need (so long runtimes theoretically). Is using an old beast like this a good or bad idea? Assuming the thing actually charges you could go for it. I've had poor luck with APCs in the past just outright conking out and refusing to charge (even with a new battery). Just be aware that that UPS' batteries are 60 pounds and because its a rack mount you probably won't have any of the software the consumer versions get.
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Apr 11, 2016 09:18
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The line from your house to the nearest ISP box is hosed (or the ISP box itself is)
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Jun 17, 2016 18:11
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You could upgrade the GPU to something from the past 2 years but you're also going to be hampered by a 6 year old processor and a lack of RAM (4 gigs, right? unless you are saying you have 4 DIMMs of 4 gigs). Doom 4 works well on lower CPUs, etc but GTA V you're going to be poo poo out of luck there.
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Jul 6, 2016 15:00
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Alereon posted:Don't buy a Gigabyte motherboard, they're garbage. Read the Parts Picking Megathread for advice. Similarly the 960 performance-wise is a complete disappointment for the price and you'd be better off getting a used 970 or something for what you'd pay for it (~225).
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Jul 6, 2016 20:43
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