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So to help my mother migrate from her Athlon xp on original windows xp . (NEVER formatted..) to a more modern core 2 duo in Windows 10 I've setup a mechanical based kvm that runs usb and vga connections. The problem is if either of the computers is turned on while the monitor is off or set to the other computer windows doesn't detect the resolution and defaults to 1600 x 1200. Is there an easy way to fix this that doesn't require going into display properties and hitting detect display each time? Like if I could force them to somehow default to 1080p regardless of if they detect a screen or not? Or perhaps a tiny program or batch file I can put on the desktop of each that she can run to fix it? Any help would be greatly appreciated 
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Feb 11, 2016 18:02
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 12:22 |
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Yeah I've got that same problem on one of my machines, pretty sure at least in my case that it's the psu.
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Mar 12, 2016 00:39
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I've had a few well used usb cables start to get hot, right where they were bent the most, near the plug. I blamed it on the wire fatiguing from repeated bending, assumed it would eventually short out and go on fire so binned it. Honestly I'd check all cables and hub and such separately till I was certain of the problem. Would suck to bin the hub only to find it was a cable.
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May 27, 2016 13:12
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If your case has a reboot button you can always connect it in place of the power button where they plug into the motherboard.
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Jan 8, 2017 01:14
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Oh crap I was in windows disk management and accidentally clicked on the wrong option when trying to extend a partition size and now it's deleted it. It's a 1tb storage drive that was about 500gb full of my documents and crap. Since I've only deleted partition data and not actually formatted the thing is there some free tool I can use to recover it? I swear, I literally clicked one button by accident to do it too, no confirmation popup. I don't know if I'm more pissed at myself or at windows.
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Feb 9, 2017 16:37
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Cheers mate took seconds and got it all restored 
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Feb 9, 2017 16:55
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Stabbey_the_Clown posted:Thank you for the help. Faulty cable is the worst. I had one without realising and though "man modern dvd drives are trash" as they were failing every few months. Then I fitted a hdd and it killed that within a month, I put two and two together and replaced the cable.
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Feb 23, 2017 14:45
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So trying to spruce up an old system I got 2 x 4gb sticks of "amd only" ddr2, but I can't get the system to post with it installed in any configuration. I'm currently testing it in a p5q e with a q9550. I don't have any other ram handy but it was fine previously. If I leave both sticks out I get the proper bios error beeps. With any of the ram fitted in any slot I get power but no post beeps or output. Tried resetting the bios but no avail. Anyone got any other suggestions? I'm yet to actually try it in my friends pc however, so maybe it'll work. Though hers is the same motherboard just a model or two down (p5q l) so if it doesn't work on mine i dont expect it to work on hers. I'm sure in the bios there was a mention of turning on support extended ram, but obviously I can't actually get into the bios right now to check.
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Apr 4, 2017 16:00
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Rexxed posted:According to various forum posts, the AMD-only high density DDR2 includes an additional address bit that the intel chipset doesn't handle. This is the first one I could find to a reference to information from an actual memory seller (OCZ): Hmm thanks for that. After much reading I'm still no real further forwards in figuring it all out. I've found a few posts on the Internet explaining it all in a bit more detail too. But it all seems a bit messy. I've just tried the new ram in her system but nope, passes the bios fine even with all 12gb installed, but once it tried to actually use it like load windows or express gate everything goes to hell. Usually resulting in a blue screen. Shame as the ram is picked up fine by the bios. I guess I'll just sell it on and buy stuff that's an identical match for what she has now. Thanks
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Apr 5, 2017 18:43
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I used to swear by the freezer method amd used it often to get an extra half hour out of a dead hdd. But I think that was because our household had about 10 identical hard drives that all were known later to have major problems and possibly a recall, can't quite remember as it was about 10 yeats ago. Freezer trick worked on every one of then, but when I've tried it recently on other dead drives I've not had much luck.
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Apr 28, 2017 18:46
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Yeah as everyone else said, usually the rest of the system is worth replacing at the same time due to age, especially if you've already upgraded the cpu to a high end one for the respective socket. Case in point: I recently had 2 core2quad systems that needed am upgrade, one was mine and one was a friends. She was on a super budget, so she got a 3.4ghz xeon chip modded to work in her old socket. But that was such an oddity of an upgrade involving updating bios microcode to accept the new cpu and run it properly. I however was wanting a full upgrade, so I got a modern kabylake system with ddr4 ram etc. I ran some tests with each system using an ssd, 970 gtx, 8gb ram and with her system running an old 4 core 3.4ghz xeon and mine on a modern 2 core 4 thread g4560 at 3.5ghz. For the most part the results are very close, usually within 10% or so. However things like minimum framerate suffers alot more on the old system. Her cpu cost was £15 and mine was £55. I know it's not quite what you meant when you asked the question, but it does backup what other guys were saying about extra cpu power not quite being the bottleneck.
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May 5, 2017 13:05
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Maybe go for the 2 x 4tb but allocate 1tb from each for the most important data?
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May 13, 2017 13:08
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Geemer posted:What's that even going to accomplish? The fast majority of hard drive failures are all-or-nothing type deals caused by physical wear. Apologies, I didn't realise they'd literally just be stored away and not used at all. My thinking was literally as simple as "if one dies the other may still work" but I don't know much about long term storage so never mind
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May 14, 2017 14:22
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I've always "lucked out" with ones that didn't fit in other PSUs. Though recently I found one that fit but had a different layout. My soloution (didn't have a multimeter with me) was to re-pin the end of the odd cable to match an existing cable, using an led as my double - checking tool. If a live or ground is the wrong way it won't light and the difference between 5v and 12v was noticeable by brightness (make sure you've got it set up with a 12v resistor). I'd guess you could do the same with a fan?
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Jun 1, 2017 01:40
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Edit: never mind I found the m.2 risers/screws in between layers of cardboard in the mobo box. Doh!
Captain Hair fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Jul 18, 2017 |
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Jul 18, 2017 21:39
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 12:22 |
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Rexxed posted:It's just a screw to retain the drive, and it should ship with standoffs already inserted to put it into. You remove any ones that may interfere. The "riser" is a socket permanently built into the board. This isn't your board but it's pretty clear: Thanks for the help but I found the missing parts. Haven't actually tried fitting it but I'm pretty sure my mobo has 3 permenantly installed nut shaped metal holes built into the board, then you fit a tiny riser to the size you're using and screw into place. They really should have this in the manual. Edit: yup odd riser thing was the right jobbie, everything lined up perfect and windows is installing to it now in blissfully silence. Been running an ooooold dying seagate (refurbished to boot) for the past couple of weeks and it's been hell. Captain Hair fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Jul 18, 2017 |
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Jul 18, 2017 21:52
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