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Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I found a brand new 4-bay USB 3.0 raid enclosure at Goodwill today

What do I do with a 4-bay USB 3.0 raid enclosure

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Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I use a program called DocScan on my iPhone 7 and it has completely eliminated my need for a dedicated/AIO scanner. I mainly use it to scan in receipts for expense reports but it performs well on full size forms.

There's plenty of reasons to own a dedicated scanner but for paperwork I'm completely happy with the free app.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Fruits of the sea posted:

The Zalman zm-mic1 is clip on and good. Bought it on the internet's suggestion and I've gotten compliments on the audio quality since then.

Assuming this is for ventrilo/skype etc and not recording, of course.

This is the one I use. It's been fine for voice chat but I still want to upgrade to a modmic in the future.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

This reminds me that modular desktop PSUs have a lovely design attribute where the cables are often physically interchangeable between brands, but the pins are connected differently. Lots of stories of people frying all their equipment because they bought a new PSU and thought they could swap it in without replacing the cables.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Drunk Badger posted:

I have a gaming PC with two monitors, and I've found that when I run video on my second monitor at the max 60 fps, it messes with my games running at 144 fps on the main monitor. Adding Chrome to the mix for looking things up screws with this even more. I'd like to get a mini pc to only run video / websites on (no gaming), something larger than a stick PC with the following:

Requirments:
1080p via DVI / HDMI / DP. Adapters are fine as long as it doesn't require VGA.
USB 2.0 or better, probably want two ports and can throw in a hub if needed.
2GB+ RAM
64GB internal storage (or SSD slot). Nothing I plan to do with this will require a lot of disk I/O.

Nice to have:
4K output of some sort. Adapters are still fine for this.
4GB RAM
Wired network access
3.5mm sound out (could be replaced with a USB sound output I guess)
Windows support. I'm comfortable with Linux, but I already am certain everything works with Windows as that's what I'm using now.
USB 3.0
VESA mount so I can put it behind my monitor

Before you do this try running the second monitor off your integrated video

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Turkson posted:

Is there a thread for computer speakers? If not, does anyone have any recommendations?

I’ve had my Klipsch Promedia 2.1 set for 8 years and I haven’t heard of anything that beats it aside from a home audio speaker/amp/receiver setup.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Don’t plug in modular cables that aren’t specifically compatible with your PSU. Your poo poo will literally catch on fire.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

I would contact the manufacturer first

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

EssOEss posted:

Thanks for the cooling design suggestions. I could not figure out a good way to get more fans moving air without creating negative case pressure, so I decided to go with something simple focused on the HDDs.



Time to stress test it and see how it performs.

I think exhausting out the bottom is a pretty bad idea and you should either flip that fan around or move it to the top of the case and have it exhaust from there.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Edit: nm

Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 21:09 on Aug 19, 2018

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

A Strange Aeon posted:

Cross posting from the PC build thread on their advice:

I built my PC a week or so ago and it's been running fine, but I do have a question around the CPU temperature. 

I have an i5-8600K and the Cryorig H7 49.0 CPU cooler installed, along with the two case fans that came with it. (here's the link for the whole build if that helps: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/astrangeaeon/saved/zW2299)

I've read that the average temperature while gaming for an i5 is supposed to be 50 to 63 C, but through MSI Afterburner, I've noticed mine runs closer to high 70s, with a spike to 81 being the max when I was playing Metro 2033 last night. 

I've read that anything under 90 C isn't REALLY a big deal, but since I planned on potentially overclocking this in a few years, I'm worried I set something up wrong. Is this something I should be worried about and if so, what would be some common things I could check or settings I could adjust to make it run cooler? 

I'm trying not to be too paranoid, since if I wasn't actively looking at the temperature, I'd never notice anything, since everything runs how I'd expect for the hardware I bought. But the fact that it seems so above the average makes me wonder. 

Reapply thermal paste, clean our the inside of your case, check case airflow, and make sure you have a proper fan profile set up in your BIOS or in Windows. For that last one, your motherboard probably has a GUI tool in the BIOS that will measure the max/min fan speeds and ramp-up times and give you some presets to set speed vs. temperature.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Hold The Ashes posted:

:psyduck:

So, no, it wasn't purposely.

Quit being a dick. That's too much attitude for a Sunday.

A Strange Aeon posted:

So for setting fan profiles, it'll be pretty obvious what I'm trying to do if I look around the BIOS? I've heard of fan profiles before but I guess I just assumed they would have come pre-set for the best cooling so never did a lot of research.

Yeah, it should be pretty obvious. I think my motherboard calls it "Q Fan Control". Your computer has no idea what fans you've set up until you run one of those utilities so by default it may be under-using your fans.

Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 21:55 on Oct 7, 2018

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

EssOEss posted:

I anti-recommend Corsair for fans - they are some of the noisiest I have ever used!

My ML fans are quieter than the Noctuas they replaced

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

22 Eargesplitten posted:

Thankfully the PSU is still in warranty, but it's still a pain in the rear end. To test it, are modular cables standardized between manufacturers? Before I deal with RMA I'm thinking of testing with a Corsair power supply I have, but hers is an EVGA. It would be really nice if I didn't have to redo all the wiring to test it out.

Oh my god do not do this it will cause a fire

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

yoohoo posted:

Can someone explain why wifi speed tests are all over the place for me? Sometimes I get 5Mbps and other times I get 180Mbps. I'm on Verizon Fios using a mesh router to boost coverage in my bedroom, which was super spotty before I got it. Sometimes my internet will cut out and I'll need to switch from the 5g network to the 2.4g (and vice versa) and it'll work just fine, I'm wondering if that is related?

And any tips on mesh placement? As of now I have it behind my dresser, because that's unfortunately the only spot it'll fit.

Radios cutting out entirely is usually due to something fucky going on with the operating system or hardware in my experience. Update the firmware and disconnect any external devices that you have connected to the router. I have a TP-Link router that became really unstable when I had a misbehaving USB drive hooked up to it.

Running at 80mhz channel width will also subject you to interference issues if you’re not in a quiet zone.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Pro tip, since that front IO panel looks like mine did: if the audio and USB cables are on separate circuit boards/have separate grounds, you can separate the audio cables and run them on the other side of the case to reduce the line noise.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

You can pair a keyboard and mouse with the Shield

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

dads friend steve posted:

Welp, built my first pc and everything is great. Got a Fractal Design Mini C case and it’s super quiet which I love. Only problem is one of the two front panel USB ports isn’t working at all. I’m much more familiar troubleshooting software problems than hardware ones so any advice would be much appreciated. What I’ve tried so far:
- Rebooting (many times)
- unplugging and replugging the cable into the motherboard
- trying to visually inspect the cable (couldn’t really see the front panel connection without taking the case apart more than I was comfortable with)
- poking around the BIOS to see if anything jumped out
- checking the motherboard manual to confirm the connector supports 2 usbs

It’s probably just hosed up. My Fractal case has the microphone and headphone jacks reversed. They also routed the audio cable along the USB cables for maximum interference, but luckily they were easily separated and didn’t share the same board.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

You’re not going to screw anything up shorting the headers. The other pins are all LED lights and the reset button

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Monitor drivers are generally just color profiles and aren't going to address the kind of hardware issue/flaw that you're seeing. Old games can set some weird video modes that drive monitors crazy.

What files do you get when you unpack the driver?

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Another thing you can try is switching cable types if your monitor has multiple types of inputs, like swapping HDMI for DVI or even VGA

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Is the BIOS up to date? They often address RAM compatibility issues.

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Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

Rexxed posted:

I've got one of those datavac blowers, but I paid $50 and the price seems to have gone up:
https://smile.amazon.com/Bonus-Electric-500-Watt-Computer-Electronics/dp/B071LQSXGD/

There's a bunch of other companies making similar products now:
https://smile.amazon.com/s?k=duster&rh=n%3A541966&dc&qid=1599980639&rnid=2941120011&sa-no-redirect=1&ref=sr_nr_n_1

I also paid $50 for mine in 2014 but I'd drop $80 on one today because the quality and power are outstanding. Those similar products look awful in comparison.

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