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I want to test a USB key which I think failed at some point but I'm not sure. It's not for anything critical. Is there something like memtest86 for USB keys?
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# ¿ May 17, 2020 01:11 |
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 07:15 |
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Ramrod Hotshot posted:Christ. Even if I split the 6 pin to feed both the CPU and the video card, that won't do it? Those are the two most power drawing/spiking things in any computer.
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# ¿ May 17, 2020 03:48 |
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Hipster_Doofus posted:You can check it with a surface scan just like any hdd/ssd. HDtune is nice and simple and faster than chkdsk for whatever reason. Go to the Error Scan tab and hit start. (Don't check Quick Scan.) Thank you.
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# ¿ May 18, 2020 03:37 |
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Sillybones posted:Of course: If it's already backed up, even if the drive works in another computer I would consider it toasted and destroy it.
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# ¿ May 26, 2020 01:17 |
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Sillybones posted:(maybe check the joke there) Ah yes, Date of Modification.
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# ¿ May 26, 2020 07:20 |
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Shlomo Palestein posted:Somewhat...antiquated question I suppose. If it's a repeated sound that you can force to happen again and again it's not likely a popped capacitor which is about the only easy thing to replace in there. You probably shouldn't open it up and start poking at stuff because it could still be holding a fair bit of voltage from undamaged caps.
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# ¿ Jun 11, 2020 21:08 |
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Mitosisfish posted:Hi Thread, If it's out of warranty and it fails and kills your CPU or GPU or both you'll receive nothing from seasonic. If it is under warranty all the other parts will be covered by a PSU failure that damages other things.
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# ¿ Jun 16, 2020 05:20 |
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Noctua makes great fans that are practically silent. There are other options that move more air but they're louder. I'll just chip in that Corsair fans are pretty good if you specifically get the ones you need for the application (SP/AF). I'm happy with my 140SP corsairs, extremely quiet.
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# ¿ Jun 16, 2020 15:49 |
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MarcusSA posted:I asked this in the VR thread but I kinda wanted to get any other opinions on it. Just look and see if you're running out of RAM when you use your PC. If you are then buy more.
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# ¿ Jun 18, 2020 07:02 |
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Endymion FRS MK1 posted:I have a coworker who is buying an i9-9900K, and he needs a cooler. He's interested in my H55i (a 120mm AIO), but I don't want to sell something that provides insufficient cooling. If he doesn't plan on overclocking, would that be fine? I have an h115i pro (280mm rad) on my 9900k and it's fine. The issue is more getting the heat across the spreader into the fluid, I think the h55i would be alright if he's not trying to OC like crazy. Should be benchmarks out there.
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# ¿ Jun 20, 2020 21:15 |
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cr0y posted:If my little homelab rack draws right around 105 watts under load, how do I calculate what size UPS I need to get about 15-20 minutes of runtime? https://www.apc.com/shop/ca/en/tools/ups_selector/home/load
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# ¿ Jun 23, 2020 16:18 |
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Cpt_Obvious posted:Is this where I ask for VPN suggestions? Private Internet Access has been great for me over a few years at least.
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# ¿ Jul 11, 2020 01:40 |
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EssOEss posted:Are there motherboard manufactuers who have software that isn't pants on head stupid? I have an Asus motherboard and the drat thing is janky as hell, with fan calibration always failing and the whole app refusing to start after latest windows update. If I upgrade my system, what motherboard vendor can I rely on to provide functioning system management software? ASUS is the best IMO. Gigabyte is the worst. I upgraded to a 9900k system and went from an ASUS mobo to Gigabyte and man it's so much worse it's not even funny. Gigabyte had the better power delivery and I wanted to do some big overclocks and I guess that all worked well enough but I wish I had stayed ASUS just for the BIOS and honestly the built-in sound card stuff is implemented tons better (in the realtek panel). Oh well.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2020 00:31 |
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Maxwell Adams posted:I just had a hard drive fail on me. No response from the drive at all when it has power, won't even spin up. How feasable would it be to get the data off of this drive? Can I just buy an identical model and swap some bits around? If the data is extremely important I'd contact data recovery company and ask about pricing.
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# ¿ Jul 17, 2020 18:03 |
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Azuren posted:I have a older spare gaming desktop that's going to the living room for the wife and nephew to play games on. It's running Windows 8 and does not have Bluetooth support. I want to get a pair of wireless controllers set up and running, and I'm wondering the best way to do that. I prefer Sony controllers just cause I used to have a PS1 and a PS2, but Xbox controllers are fine if they'll Just Work(tm). I remember I was able to get a single PS3 controller working over a mini-USB cable but it was a seriously janky headache and involved third-party kludge program(s) to trick Windows into thinking it was an Xbox 360 controller, so if there's a quick and easy way to get wireless Xbox controllers working with an adapter then that would be preferable. From briefly looking online, it looks like Microsoft makes wireless adapters for Xbox One controllers, but they apparently only work on Windows 10, and this PC has 8.1. Is there a way to get a pair of either 360 and/or Xbox One controllers working wirelessly with 8.1? I just went through all this but with win10. The Xbox 1 controllers that you can buy these days are all BT compatible (even the 'wired' ones) and I think they work with any BT device? You'd just need a BT Pci-e card I'd think.
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# ¿ Jul 24, 2020 04:59 |
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genericnick posted:Should I replace my PSU? I built a new system, early in the year, but the Geforce 2070 died after three months. The merchant did some unspecific repairs over a month, but after three days it went back to being a paper weight. Now it's getting replaced, but the old replacement I used for more than a month now didn't need the additional connection from the PSU. Since everything was perfectly stable that is the only part I can't really vouch for. How likely is it that a new fractal PSU would have faulty cables or whatever? Is the PSU under warranty? If so I wouldn't replace it without any reason. If you're asking if the GPU was killed by the PSU it is unlikely but I guess you'll find out. OCCT can show you voltages by rail and you can do a GPU stress test and see what you find.
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# ¿ Jul 28, 2020 11:34 |
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Taima posted:Oh man I have a real head scratcher. Maybe the motherboard needs a BIOS update to see the drive? You can usually update most mobos from BIOS.
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2020 23:54 |
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Touchdown Boy posted:Oh my bad. I thought it was mechanical. Its held up well over the years either way. Ive read a lot that membrane keyboards are worse, in peoples experience does it matter all that much? I use a razer deathadder (mouse) and have the sensitivity up/down buttons mapped to volume control and its way nicer than a seperate knob. Something to try maybe?
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# ¿ Aug 1, 2020 20:24 |
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Drink-Mix Man posted:Speaking of keyboards, I've got a laptop keyboard with dead keys. I've already replaced the keyboard but the issue persists. What else could it be? Is it a mac? Logic board?
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# ¿ Aug 2, 2020 01:01 |
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That's a pretty funny one. Have they tried a cheap air cooler like a hyper evo 212 or w/e it's called?
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2020 22:25 |
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How does he know the smoke isn't coming out of the CPU? He needs to pick up a cheap cooler to try.
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2020 22:50 |
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My h115i pro has been fantastic. Very little smoke.
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# ¿ Aug 8, 2020 08:50 |
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Yeah don't bother with an HDD that old. Be happy it didn't abruptly die.
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# ¿ Aug 12, 2020 21:08 |
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Total Meatlove posted:Poor impulse control and a chocolate factory clearing out a disused server room means I’m the proud owner of a Dell 4210 server rack (and some very nice chocolate). If you find the box all the stuff came in and look on the underside of the lid there should be a drawing of the different panels and underneath each should be a description of the flavor. If it's not there look for a small folded card with that info on there. (The chocolate people more than likely they threw in whatever looked computer-y so you'll have some extra parts or the wrong stuff).
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# ¿ Aug 13, 2020 22:32 |
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Total Meatlove posted:Cheers. Was worried i was leaving some kind of panel out that was required, time to eBay some things. Honestly I'd contact them to get some money back. You paid for a whole rack, they should at least sweeten the deal somehow.
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# ¿ Aug 15, 2020 03:40 |
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I think if you're that into having Jo dust a good filtered case and positive pressure fan setup probably should come before a mechanical blower. I just vacuum mine now and then with a small brush attachment, no carpet or pets or smokers or anything so I don't get a lot of dust.
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2020 00:21 |
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Guitarchitect posted:What about a proper air compressor? I've got to replace my hard drive and I will probably need to remove my fan + heat sink to do it, so i thought it might be a good time to blast all the crap out of it before I start disassembling it Proper air compressors (if you mean the ones used in machine shops etc) generally have trace oil in the air line so that pneumatically driven tools are properly lubricated and you'll be spraying a little bit of oil all over your poo poo. If you just have some home compressor it's probably fine.
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2020 20:18 |
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fennesz posted:Getting to the point where I might need to replace an under powered PSU. You can use online calculators to find how much wattage you need for your system (given what components are installed). I wouldn't worry about it too much but I think the PSUs operate most efficiently when they're at about 80% of total load. What you actually need to care about is modularity (get one with modular cables so you can not use the ones you don't need), warranty (EVGA has many with 10 year warranties at good prices), and that's about it. If you have an unusual case (mini ITX or something) you might need to make sure you don't need a specifically smaller size PSU but if you have a 'normal' case it's basically standard sizing. If you're over-PSU'd you won't notice anything. If you're under-PSU'd your PC will just turn itself off or bluescreen when you're using it. If you're out of warranty and your PSU dies and kills every other component in your PC while it does, you don't get anything from the PSU maker.
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# ¿ Aug 31, 2020 01:03 |
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Statutory Ape posted:what is an easy way to run some thermal comparisons on a computer? i just use it for gaming and i want see how its thermaling Hwinfo64
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# ¿ Sep 4, 2020 15:28 |
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Statutory Ape posted:https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Amp-S...ps%2C160&sr=8-3 Are you just looking for more volume?
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# ¿ Sep 8, 2020 17:21 |
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Filthy Hans posted:I haven't had a desktop PC in about 15 years so and have had my current ThinkPad x220 for around 9 years or so, which means I'm really out of date. I'm hoping to get a used desktop PC for ~$500 that won't die on me in a year or two, will not generate much noise, and hopefully can play games at least as well as my PS4 does, preferably 1080p 60fps but that's really not mandatory. I'll worry about a monitor later. I don't know what generations of Intel core processor I should be looking at or if AMD would be a better choice, I don't know jack about motherboards or GPUs either. I've been cursed with bad PSUs in the past and absolutely will not tolerate one. I'm in eastern Tennessee and the pickings on Craigslist are slim so I also want to know where I can look for used PCs online. I'm not too concerned about memory or storage, memory is cheap and I'll probably get some sort of SSD if it doesn't come with one and I already have an external drive as well. It's gotta have Windows 10 and hopefully MS Office, I've never warmed up to the free alternatives. I've heard to avoid video cards that have been used for crypto mining but I don't know how I would go about checking that, apart from figuring out which cards were popular for that (which probably changed often over time) or asking the seller (who will probably lie). If that's your budget it makes more sense to just keep an eye out for things instead of specifically looking for xyz equipment. I would say browse SA mart and ask honest questions in the threads, if someone tries to bullshit you they'll be called out by thousands of angry nerd goon gamers. I would say for 1080p 60fps you need any i5/i7 with 4cores/8threads minimum, and pretty much any GPU that is 6xx Nvidia or newer. You don't have the budget to specifically buy a good PSU, anything from a name brand used should be fine. You'll probably end up with a ~500w PSU. I'm pretty sure you can find something for that price.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2020 21:54 |
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Filthy Hans posted:thanks, I'm thinking I'll just get a pretty new workstation because I could get something pretty new for at or less than what an old gaming rig will probably be; I'll forget about gaming on it because reliability and quietude are more important to me When it comes to something being quiet that's got nothing to do with gaming/not gaming. You can have a gaming PC that is perfectly quiet and reliable. It's not a tradeoff. Make sure whatever workstation can take a full size GPU.
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2020 00:20 |
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Can anyone recommend a very quiet 80mm fan? I know they're louder than larger fans, this is for a home server build that has to be basically 100% quiet. Thanks!
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2020 15:56 |
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FCKGW posted:I used a couple of these in my home server and even though they're a 3-pin they're dead silent, however they do push a little less air than some comparable fan. I used two in my case they they exhausted the heat just fine. Thanks, I ordered 2 of the f8s.
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2020 16:27 |
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Tuxedo Gin posted:Is it possible to change the label of a USB drive as it is displayed in the BIOS? If I have two identical thumb drives, they’ll show up in the BIOS as, say, “SANDISK 32GB”. If I am leaving them both plugged in with different live distros, can I change the name? Or do I have to buy different drives and memorize which is which? Does it boot to windows? You can do it from the disk manager or you can do it from the command line, like "label H: Poop" to change it to Poop. e: Or maybe you don't see those values in BIOS. Not sure!
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2020 22:54 |
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Tuxedo Gin posted:It doesn’t boot to anything other than the live distros on the USB drives in question. But, even renaming the drives in Windows on another system doesn’t change how they show up in the BIOS. BIOS displays what I’m assuming is the manufacturer info on the chip rather than the drive label. Yeah you were probably right then that it can't be changed, apparently it's the device ID that the system decodes to the text you're seeing (https://usb-ids.gowdy.us/read/UD/).
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# ¿ Sep 16, 2020 23:04 |
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So I have two low-amperage PWM fans and 1 header. The correct soldering is to splice the 12v, GND, and PWM signal, leaving the tach wire just going to one fan, right? I don't want to buy a splitter, I can do this kinda stuff pretty easily and I don't want the extra cables.DarkestLite posted:Posting this in the hardware thread because my build is so new I wonder if a part is the cause. Try running those softwares (CPU-Z and HWinfo64) as administrator and see if that helps. What SSD are you using exactly? You're on win10 right? Have you updated/installed the mobo drivers? VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 11:51 on Sep 19, 2020 |
# ¿ Sep 19, 2020 11:49 |
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DarkestLite posted:
Do you have fast boot stuff enabled in your BIOS? That still seems like a long boot but what do I know. I can't quite remember exactly how to see it (Event Viewer?) but there's a more detailed way to see your startup performance with the services being started etc and I recommend googling to find that.
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# ¿ Sep 20, 2020 10:37 |
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Vir posted:Asus makes devices which seems to take the output from DisplayPort(s) and multiplex it into Type-C. Is that the sort of thing you're looking for? Marilyn Manson had his bottom 2 PCI-E slots removed so he could do this
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# ¿ Sep 21, 2020 20:27 |
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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 07:15 |
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Megasabin posted:What's the easiest way to control fan speed for a regular non-cpu, non-gpu case fan? I just put in a new one yesterday and it's too drat loud. I want to turn it down. I tried using Speedfan, but I had some issues, because while it detected all five fans, it only showed the RPMs of one of them, and whenever I played with the PWM settings it didn't seem to do anything at all. That's called a chassis fan and if you've attached it to a fan header on your motherboard you can most likely adjust fan settings from your BIOS. Is it a PWM fan (4 pin)?
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# ¿ Sep 23, 2020 15:47 |