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Farrok posted:I recently purchased a Macbook Pro, and I'd like to get rid of my old desktop, since all of the hardware except the HDDs is from about 2008. However, I have about 2 terabytes of data spread over 3 internal SATA HDDs, which I'd like to keep using as external storage. Is there any kind of enclosure that will adapt an internal SATA drive to thunderbolt or USB? The only thing I can find is a Seagate GoFlex adapter which looks like its specifically for Seagate's GoFlex drives. Not sure it'll work with others. USB adapters are very common. Check Newegg for, like, Vantec or Rosewill or even Thermaltake. Thunderbolt adapters are most common from storage specialty company LaCie. But a quick look suggests you may only be able to get them with a disk pre-installed. E: Maybe Buffalo. Check out MacMall.com Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 23:47 on Sep 19, 2014 |
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Sep 19, 2014 23:43
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Massasoit posted:Looking for an external USB 3.0 HD, 1-2TB. What are the good brands/models? WD, Seagate? You've listed the ONLY brands. Well, maybe Toshiba. Most people prefer to get their own drive and a separate dock. The warranty support is usually longer and the dock is usually better at keeping the drive cool. Plus it's easy to crack open and put the drive into a computer if the dock fails or you need to repurpose the disk or whatever. Goonsensus seems to vaguely favor WD over Seagate because Seagate raced to the bottom on drive quality and warranty a couple years ago, and it's unclear if they've changed their ways. Just watch out for drives that are powered by a single USB plug - those usually have the USB connector directly attached to the drive's controller board, with no option to plug the drive in via SATA if the USB bridge dies.
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Sep 20, 2014 02:50
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everythingWasBees posted:Can I use Silverstone cables with a Seasonic PSU? Almost definitely no. Modular cables are not standardized.
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Sep 22, 2014 13:55
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Fucknag posted:I guess this is the best place for this question, but feel free to redirect me. S-Video/RCA to USB encoder dongles are really inexpensive. If you have software and know-how, the hardware is like $15 generic, or more expensive with software packaged to make it easy. There are also video digitizing services that will do home movies for $20 a tape up to 2 hours. They'll also do tape for a per-foot fee (this one place I'm looking at will do it for $0.25 per foot, which works out to $5/minute at 24 frames/second).
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Sep 29, 2014 22:23
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TSBX posted:Setting up a server for PXE .iso deployment. Will two PCI single port NIC cards perform the same as a dual port NIC card? PCI? As in legacy PCI? Identical performance, assuming all of the cards involved are the same PCI version. Either PCI 1.0 NICs will saturate the entire bus for a total of 133 MB/s of throughput (1064 Gb/s, 6.4% faster than a single connection), or PCI 2.0 NICs will manage their top GbE speeds, as long as there is no other PCI card on the bus.
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Oct 3, 2014 15:06
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TSBX posted:Sorry, not legacy, PCI-E. Just need to know if I should buy two single port ethernet cards or one of the dual port ethernet cards. It really doesn't matter except for how many free slots you have. whatupdet posted:I'm looking to sell some non-SSD hard drives and need to make sure everything is removed before giving to a stranger, years back I used DBAN but as each drive took 1-2 days to run multiple passes plus the fact I could not use my computer during this time I'd like a better option; if available. A single zero-fill pass will get past the limits of any demonstrated capability to recover from drives. You can do that with DBAN, or the useful Windows tool CCleaner also has a zero-fill drive wiper that would allow you to multitask. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 17:00 on Oct 3, 2014 |
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Oct 3, 2014 16:58
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ufarn posted:Am I correct in assuming that the Radeon 6870 uses a DVI-in on both its ports? DVI-in? It's not a capture card. All of those plugs are outputs for screens. You can use any of the ports alone, both DVIs or one DVI and the HDMI. If you need two HDMI, you can use a simple pin adapter or DVI to HDMI cable on a DVI plug, but you won't get audio out of the DVI-connected plug. To these, you can add as many DisplayPort screens as you have ports (or more, with MST, up to six displays total).
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Oct 8, 2014 20:08
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IOGear does this little Bluetooth 4.0 adapter. I think it might work well, but I actually can't tell because it turns out you can't run a Bluetooth stack on Windows Server, and all my other systems already have Bluetooth so I can't exactly test it... This is not a very helpful recommendation, is it?
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Oct 9, 2014 02:25
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Massasoit posted:Is there a general trend/focus in components to reduce energy use? In newer CPUs and GPUs I'm seeing that they use less energy while delivering more performance. Is this an effect of a concentrated effort to reduce power consumption or is it just a side effect of changing technology? Concentrated effort, definitely. As laptops, tablets, and phones have increased in popularity, the priority has shifted towards doing more within a fixed budget for heat and power.
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Oct 11, 2014 22:25
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I would not try to do that automatically. You can image the SSD over, then just copy the contents of the hard drive, though. If you SSD has NTFS junctions or symlinks, different programs will treat them differently. Clonezilla, I think, isn't aware of them, so if you have a symlink to a file on another drive, Clonezilla will copy the file, not the link. But I'm not sure this is consistent behavior and I wouldn't recommend relying on it.
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Oct 13, 2014 19:13
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Alereon posted:That sounds like more of a question for Inspect Your Gadgets. Note that 7.1/surround sound aren't real features when it comes to headphones, you only have two ears and your source will be able to generate stereo or do smart downmixing for you. Not only has positional audio simulation via DSP been a thing since the 90s, but some headphones actually do have full sets of surround drivers in them. We only have two ears, yet they are nevertheless capable of hearing position in 3D space. With control of the source and environment (e.g. in a closed earphone cup) you can do the same thing with the source that the receivers do.
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Oct 14, 2014 17:51
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SubjectVerbObject posted:A non computer savvy friend is looking to buy a computer to run Adobe CC applications on. He doesn't have much money so would probably buy pre-built. I have looked at the minimum requirements online, but those are usually made of failed dreams and sadness, ie Pentium 4 and 2 GB ram for Photoshop. Illustrator and Photoshop favor RAM over CPU unless you do a lot of filter applies (CPU bound) or tons of layers (requires both compute and RAM). That said, a quad core is a really good investment over a dual-core both for Adobe programs and in general where time is money. Integrated graphics are fine. They'll do OpenGL interface acceleration just fine. They'll even do Mercury Engine since it's based on OpenCL, but the performance is a bit below the maximum possible. You don't need much video card to max out Mercury Engine - something like a 750 Ti would work. Photoshop does not maintain a compatibility list the way Premiere does (and Premiere's compatibility list should be phased out soon, I think). So an i5 and 8 GB of RAM is a good starting point - especially if there are four RAM slots so you can easily move up to 16 GB in the future if necessary, but you can do that with two slots as well. So: I say go for a simple Dell Inspiron desktop with a Core i5, and get the mini/midtower model with enough room for a GPU and SSD down the road.
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Oct 22, 2014 14:33
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Sing this Corrosion posted:Well that wasn't what I was expecting but thanks for the heads-up! FYI: Don't clone it. The uncorrectable sectors means lost data. You will be copying corrupted material along with the bad. Use a file-based transfer instead of a block-based one so that you will be alerted to what you can't recover.
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Oct 24, 2014 02:46
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Knifegrab posted:So I am going to be replacing my i7 4790k stock fan cooler with a 212 EVO, but I have never done a replacement before. So I have a couple questions: You do yank it off, but not before undoing the locking pins. The locking pins are the most important part. After that, there will just be the residual adhesive effect of the thermal paste holding the cooler down, and you may find that it just comes loose by itself.. The thermal paste left over will be a problem. Always clean off and reapply thermal paste, even if you're just lifting the heatsink for a moment. Best way is with high-purity isopropyl alcohol (90%+) and a microfiber cloth. Second best is high-purity isopropyl alcohol and using some coffee filters for mop-up. For applying paste, basically do anything that isn't spreading it yourself. Dot in the middle, very thin line down the CPU die, little smiley face - as long as the mounting pressure of the heatsink itself is what spreads the paste and you don't use too much, you'll be fine. Here's a relevant video.
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Oct 24, 2014 17:25
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Depends on the format, actually. Within Windows, a Quick Format issues a partition-wide TRIM, which isn't perfect but it's 95% there (it'll leave spare area unTRIMmed. Some SSD tools like Intel SSD Toolbox and Samsung Magician have "issue a free space TRIM" tools. And Windows 8 and 8.1's defragmentation tool will send a free-space TRIM to SSDs.
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Oct 27, 2014 22:18
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There's a longstanding bug with Sandforce 2 drives, yeah.
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Oct 27, 2014 23:58
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Star War Sex Parrot posted:smdh if you don't convert hex to dec in your head I've got 153 problems but converting hex ain't one.
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Nov 1, 2014 07:08
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On a new build, that's often a sign of forgetting to plug in a power cable (usually a graphics card plug or the EPS12V/ATX12V connector) or, sometimes, the CPU fan being disconnected. It's also something that happens when the board detects a short, e.g. installed against the case without stand-offs. Of these, I'd guess the short is more likely the problem, what with the humidifier and all.
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Nov 10, 2014 00:58
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NmareBfly posted:I'm having power supply problems. Couple questions. Here's the hardware. The 12 volt rail seems to be dropping to something like 10.5 occasionally, which I noticed when it decided to start rebooting every time I run a game that needs the video card. If I leave the PC off for a while and then turn it back on it'll be a steady 12 for a few hours but start to drop slowly (overheating, maybe? temps look good but there isn't one in the PSU itself.) That's a mystery. 550W is enough power for that build, definitely definitely, and that's a good unit - it doesn't drop voltage when things go wrong, it just turns off. JonnyGuru's sample held 11.95V at full load in the hotbox. Getting hot is a reason for voltage regulation to go to poo poo, especially at heavy loads, but it shouldn't happen with that unit, not like that. It would have to be getting REALLY hot. What case are you using? It's not in your parts list. It could be important to figuring this out (and also might be totally irrelevant). I'd rule out from-the-wall problems if you have a filtering UPS in between the wall and the system. If it's not a pure-sine-wave unit, it could trigger the PSU to shut down when the UPS tripped to internal power, but it'd happen based on what the UPS was doing, not the computer, and the computer would just boot right up again without issue. Modular cables are not standard, generally, but they are standard across Silverstone units. If you wanted to try another Silverstone, I believe you could just do the swap.
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Nov 10, 2014 20:24
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Silly question, then: Is the PSU fan facing down or up? It should be down.
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Nov 10, 2014 21:04
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SlayVus posted:If I go ahead and download and install drivers for my new motherboard on my OS hard drive, would I potentially be able to just "plug and play" my OS drive into the new board? In general, yes, as long as the hard drive controller will be supported out of the box. If your SATA controller is set to use AHCI mode already, then you're set. After that, the only driver you really need to download in advance is the network driver, if Windows' built-in drivers don't already cover it. Don't install them before the swap, though. Perform the swap, uninstall old drivers, and then install new ones.
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Nov 19, 2014 05:51
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ApexAftermath posted:So I have a couple 3.5TB Seagate backup+ external drives that I want to take out of their enclosures and hook them up as regular sata drives. I want some USB ports back, and I figure I will get a lot better performance doing it this way. If I'm Googling up the right drive, I cracked open one of the 2 TB ones in the same case last year. Drive worked fine. I did it without instructions, though, so it was an outrageously difficult process. I nearly gave up and used a Dremel to just cut the case. Despite the drive appearing normal after opening it up, I never tested that, as I immediately used it as a rebuild spare for a RAID array. It got wiped and reformatted in the process.
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Nov 21, 2014 01:50
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There really isn't much research on handling drives like that, but I can guess. I may be totally off. There are three big problems with old drives compared to new drives: 1) Bit rot, e.g. age-related bad sectors. Not a problem, because you're not reading anything that was written three years ago; you're using the drives fresh. 2) Gets stuck, doesn't spin up. If they do spin up, congrats, because you don't have this problem. 3) Mechanical wear and tear. But the drive wasn't operating, so... So... Uncharted territory, but I'm optimistic.
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Nov 25, 2014 09:51
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Bottom-of-the-barrel expansion cards just out-and-out blow. Try picking up an adapter based on an Intel NIC.
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Nov 26, 2014 05:00
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Intel-based WiFi is the closest you will ever get to "professional." It's the BTO option on all the corporate PCs. I'd love to tell you to get Intel's own desktop kit for the Wireless-AC 7260, but they stopped selling it. The Gigabyte kit is literally just a Gigabyte-branded antenna and slot adapter for the exact same Intel 7260-AC NIC. And, best of all, it doesn't break the bank. Unfortunately, FCKGW posted:WiFi is some amazing, voodoo magic analog data transfer service and that fling bits through the air with a million different interference channels trying to gently caress your poo poo up and it's a wonder anything ever works at all god drat.
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Nov 26, 2014 07:51
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ZorbaTHut posted:I'm looking for a place to ask a home audio question and I can't find one. NMD has no hardware thread and I can't find a relevant thread in this forum. Is there an appropriate place for this question? Inspect Your Gadgets has a variety of audio threads. Try looking there.
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Dec 3, 2014 09:55
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lollybo posted:Hmmm so when I calculated the wattage I used the max wattage instead of the TDP. The TDP is 150w. Which measurement is generally used to calculate whether a PSU is sufficient? The TDP, unless that Board Power is available - Board Power being the maximum power the entire card will draw. TDP only refers to "thermally significant" average power draw for the cooler to cope with. In your original example, 468W is the lower bounds, but that includes a 20% safety margin for things like hard drives spinning up, transient spikes, and capacitor wear. It's super-duper rare for literally every part to draw its maximum power at the same time, never mind having transient spikes at the same time, and good PSUs can handle an extra 50W or so in brief load spikes anyway. And the capacitor wear part isn't really relevant until the unit has had five years or so of use hours on it. Even if the 6870 drew the max wattage rather than the TDP, the 20% overspec margin means that you can easily run it on a 450W PSU. It's just not super-safe for lower-grade power supplies in the same way.
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Dec 17, 2014 19:09
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On one hand, yes. On the other, every component today is significantly lower in power use than equivalent parts from four years ago. The GeForce 980 is a 160W part or something and could fit on a 360W Seasonic PSU with a quad core CPU and have enough room left over for as many peripherals as most could reasonably want. By the time you want to replace that CPU, chances are the PSU is aged and out of warranty, so anybody who isn't skilled at soldering high-voltage caps would be replacing it anyway.
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Dec 17, 2014 22:34
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Assuming your Windows is later than XP and your Mac is similarly modern, format the whole thing as ExFAT and both operating systems can read and write to it with no problem. If you access it over the network, the format may well actually be totally unimportant - network access generally obscures the underlying disc from the system accessing it.
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Dec 18, 2014 03:55
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GreatMrPopo posted:Here's a question: I've been googling this and yahoo searching, and cant quite get what i need (unless i'm not noticing a link with my answer). Is there a way to/via command or run, make windows 7, upon restart, go to the advanced startup menu? My ssd just wont let me f8 upon restart, its too drat quick! Run the msconfig tool and go to it's boot settings. You can force a safe/diagnostic startup there.
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Dec 18, 2014 19:53
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Go ahead and set it. If the board has the option to use the XMP profile, try doing that. Otherwise, entering the speed/timings/voltage manually will work fine. If everything is working properly, there will be no problem.
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Jan 3, 2015 16:57
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Yep, coil whine. Unfortunately, not much you can do without an RMA (assuming you don't have long experience with high-voltage electronics you aren't mentioning). You might try, as a last ditch, going into the system BIOS and enabling Spread Spectrum clocking, but that's not guaranteed to help.
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Jan 6, 2015 05:11
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Yes, the GT 530 is a 500 series card, and yes, 347.09 is the current newest driver, and yes, you've selected the correct package for your OS. The GT 530 is a real hog, both at the time it was launched and especially now. Updated drivers may smooth out gameplay, but you'd probably need a graphics upgrade to make it really fluid and pretty and whatnot.
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Jan 7, 2015 21:42
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Professor Shark posted:Nuts. What would you recommend to me, a really-not-smart-at-computers-guy, so I don't have to gaze into the Futureshop guys eyes as they cartoonishly turn into dollar signs? Futureshop's pricing is criminal, but this is the fastest card you can get in the balls-simple range: http://m.futureshop.ca/defaultpage.aspx?lang=en#/catalog/productdetails.aspx?ajax=true&sku=10297924&lang=en-CA If you can wait on Newegg, get this one instead: http://m.newegg.ca/Product/index?itemnumber=14-487-025 Either way, just uninstall your graphics drivers from the control panel, shut down the PC and swap the new card for the old, then start up and install new drivers from nvidia.com.
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Jan 7, 2015 22:35
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AgentCow007 posted:I bought some used DDR3 1600 off a goon, but it's showing up as 1333 in the BIOS. I googled around and everyone said to enable XMP. This seems to work, but it also overclocks my CPU, which is not good because I'm still on a stock cooler at the moment. How can I set up the RAM to run at the advertised speed without overclocking? That's a quirk of the motherboard's firmware. Manually downclock the CPU, or wait on clocking the RAM higher until you have a CPU cooler. Josh Lyman posted:Is x264 encoding supposed to take forever? This is my first go, encoding the Master and Commander bluray using Handbrake on my 3570K overclocked to 4.2GHz. I'm only averaging 2.0 fps on CRF 18 and that seems crazy slow. I used the "Placebo" preset but assumed the crf would scale things back. I didn't set any flags manually or do anything that seems crazy. Audio is being passed through (DTS-MA and AC3) as well as a couple subtitles. Total time is looking to be 28 hours. That does appear to be abnormally slow for CRF 18, but I think Placebo controls there. Turn that off and see how it goes. Factory Factory fucked around with this message at 10:51 on Jan 10, 2015 |
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Jan 10, 2015 10:44
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msghall1229 posted:Got a 250 dollar budget. Need new video card. Currently running AMD FX 8 Core 4.2ghz Asus M5 Board, 32 gig ram and Nvida 650TI 2 gig card. What cards are better for the price. AMD or Nvida For the immediate cost, AMD generally has a slight leg up. For TCO, Nvidia cards meet or beat because of better power consumption.
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Jan 13, 2015 03:43
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Attribute 0xBB there, Reported Uncorrectable Errors, indicates that the drive totally shat itself and gave up whatever it was trying to do ten times. Given that and your other symptoms, I'd call it a failing drive.
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Jan 14, 2015 19:30
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Some case manufacturers "support" "EATX" as in they support a board that's ATX size but with an extra expansion slot (which is what some ludicrous enthusiast boards are built to). That's roughly SSI-EEB form factor, 12" by 10.5". True-to-spec EATX is equivalent to SSI-CEB, 12" x 13".
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Jan 27, 2015 00:39
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Danger Man posted:I am looking for a Windows version of Mac mini or iMac. My requirements are as follows: Intel NUC, add your own RAM and SSD.
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Jan 27, 2015 14:34
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Unusually slow transfer off a drop-damaged, old hard drive? That's pretty much every warning sign that the drive itself is failing. If the controller itself is damaged or does not know how to handle a particular corruption or failure condition, it can basically throw a wave of "I do not know what to do" through the system. A BSOD is not unexpected at all in that kind of situation. The BIOS getting confused to that degree... that is unexpected, but it's not impossible.
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Jan 28, 2015 18:25
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