|
Papercut posted:I pulled this hard drive out of my laptop that died like 10 years ago. I want to try to pull the data off of it, if there's anything left. Try looking for a mini-IDE to SATA or just normal IDE or maybe even USB converter. I have an ancient 100 MHz netbook-sized laptop that has a full-size IDE drive in it and Windows 3.1 still loads up like a champ. It is at least 20 years old now. You'll probably be able to pull off all the data unless it died from the hard drive failing.
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2014 20:52
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 24, 2024 01:46 |
|
|
Nintendo Kid posted:You should probably consider replacing the drive with a compactflash card and a $5 CF adapter incidentally. It can really speed things up and on a device like that it'll boost battery life by quite a bit. Nah, I don't use it on anything near a regular enough basis to allow the CF card to retain the data. Flash storage degrades if it sits unpowered too long. Besides, that thing also has a NiCD battery that only serves to weigh it down for balance (something the full-size hdd is integral to as well). And I only boot it up once every few years when me and a friend feel like playing Achtung, Die Kurve! on its glorious 16 color display. Or to see what's on a floppy disk I find lying around, before I take effort into finding a way to actually get the possible data on it anywhere near the modern age. The slow boot is just part of the charm.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 17, 2014 23:20
|
|
|
Sing this Corrosion posted:I have an issue where my computer sometimes reports "no operating system found" and therefore won't boot. When I unplug my secondary drives, it boots fine, and will then continue to work fine when it's restarted with them plugged back in. Try running CrystalDiskInfo (standard zip has no anime or ads) and post a screenshot of any drives that show up warning or failed.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 23, 2014 23:43
|
|
|
JRay88 posted:When I checked it was AHCI. I switched it to IDE and now everything works fine... What are the differences between the two and why would this have changed? IDE is the legacy method of communicating with your hard drive and motherboards can emulate it to support older OSes. AHCI is the modern-day equivalent and brings a bunch of improvements in speed, power handling and TRIM support for SSDs. Changing to AHCI mode requires some finagling with Windows, but you'll probably see some improvements. And if you have an SSD, it's pretty much a requirement for it to work properly.* http://support.microsoft.com/kb/922976 This details the procedure for Windows 7 and also provides an automated fix it utility. Your steps would be to do what is said in this article and then go into the BIOS and change it to AHCI. *If you have an SSD and it's been running on IDE mode all this time, you might want to back up all data, secure erase it and then restore the data. So it can get back to full speed again.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2014 01:16
|
|
|
JRay88 posted:I'm using windows 8.1 so I don't think that link will help. When I tried googling it all I could come up with was ways to go from AHCI>IDE not the other way around. Secure Erase is a special command to tell the SSD to erase all its flash memory and return it to a factory-new like state. Just regular formatting won't be the same. I'd suggest asking in the SSD Megathread. They'll know which tool can do the trick. If it's a Samsung SSD, they provide a bootable cd image or USB drive image through their Magician software.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2014 21:43
|
|
|
Factory Factory posted:Depends on the format, actually. Within Windows, a Quick Format issues a partition-wide TRIM, which isn't perfect but it's 95% there (it'll leave spare area unTRIMmed. Some SSD tools like Intel SSD Toolbox and Samsung Magician have "issue a free space TRIM" tools. And Windows 8 and 8.1's defragmentation tool will send a free-space TRIM to SSDs. You're right. I forgot about those. But don't some drives also have trouble getting back to full performance without a Secure Erase?
|
|
#
¿
Oct 27, 2014 23:52
|
|
|
Star War Sex Parrot posted:If it's 10 years old I wouldn't even check: just replace it. This. But if you're still on IDE, good luck finding a good replacement without needing to upgrade the motherboard (and the entire rest of the PC). For shits and giggles, you could run the standard portable version of CrystalDiskInfo and post a screenshot of the output.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2014 17:31
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:It's from the interim period where they had both IDE and SATA compatibility, thankfully. Otherwise I would have gotten rid of it two or three motherboards ago. The Hardware ECC Recovered being greater than 0 may or may not mean it's having troubles with something, but at this point I'd take a look at my RAM before going whole-hog replacing the hard drive. Try running Memtest86+ for a couple of passes (preferably overnight), to see if there's any issues there.
|
|
#
¿
Oct 29, 2014 21:42
|
|
|
Papercut posted:It's hosed, yeah? Pretty much. Though you could give the freezer trick a shot. You're down the rabbit hole already, so might as well go whole hog. Remember that if the freezer trick works, you have pretty much that one shot at getting anything off it. It might not work again.
|
|
#
¿
Nov 5, 2014 19:32
|
|
|
Even if you find one that only occasionally has a connection blip, trying to use the headset in combo with it is a recipe for your friends going deaf. It'll sometimes randomly start transmitting nothing but loud static. In the end, it was easier to just get a wired controller and use that.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 25, 2014 01:18
|
|
|
I've had the inverse happen to me, a motherboard's dying SATA controller corrupted the firmware on one of my hard drives and caused another to write random bullshit to its SMART. The first one was basically bricked and the second is still working, but delegated to holding-unimportant-data-that's-already-on-a-backup-anyways duty. I don't see why the other way around wouldn't be possible.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 28, 2015 18:53
|
|
|
politicorific posted:Not a dumb question. 1920x1080. That's my monitors native resolution. K242hl. Do other browsers gently caress up the text as well? Wasn't there some thing going on where Chrome is really bad at rendering text with default options?
|
|
#
¿
Apr 4, 2015 15:16
|
|
|
chocolateTHUNDER posted:Yeah. the Chrome thread was full of people complaining that they hosed up the text according to what version you were using. You say it started after you installed video drivers, but maybe Chrome updated when you restarted your PC and it's just a crazy coincidence? Probably more along the lines of the new drivers letting Chrome use hardware acceleration, where it used software rendering on the old drivers. I don't use Chrome so I can't tell you what setting to flip to fix just the text, but you could check if it persists if you turn off hardware acceleration altogether.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 4, 2015 19:34
|
|
|
FaustianQ posted:I've somehow cornered myself into a lovely situation with a relative. My aunt has a computer that's from 2003, am old Dell 4600C monstrosity, and she is insanely attached to for sentimental reasons - so I can't chuck it. If she wants to keep it so badly, let her keep it and then put a new computer next to it that she can play her lovely flash games on. Otherwise, just say it isn't possible/supported/whatever excuse and save yourself the headache. At 13 years old, the hard drive is probably already knee deep in the grave.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 19, 2015 21:54
|
|
. Can I fix this in anyway? Could I just secretly gut this computer, throw in an itx and somehow make a Flex or SFX PSU work? That's still way more expensive than just getting some 5 year old tech off ebay.
|
Chuu posted:Is there an adapter that can convert those 4-tip 3.5" Headphone Connectors to two 3.5" Connectors -- one for audio out and one for microphone in? I can't figure out the right search terms to make this happen, or if there is some technical reason this is not possible. You'll want to search for combo jack adapters.
|
|
#
¿
May 16, 2015 22:21
|
|
|
There's USB 2 computer linking cables for that purpose, but they probably suck harder than flash drives or external hard drives.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 11, 2015 18:37
|
|
|
Or leave the two wires dangling in a way that precludes accidental contact and touch them together to act as a power "button". If getting zapped is what worries you about bridging the pins, everything on the computer side of the psu is at most 12 volts (or 24 if your system is ancient), which is completely safe to touch. Unless something is really busted, but you'd be having more issues then.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 25, 2015 13:58
|
|
|
whatupdet posted:What do people here recommend for checking the health/sectors for errors of personal hard drives? I want to see if I should replace any of my hard drives due to failure. CrystalDiskInfo is pretty good at it. Just make sure to get the portable normal edition so you don't get anime and ads. If it says caution for anything other than temperature, just replace the disk as it's on its way out.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 1, 2015 20:09
|
|
|
teagone posted:This is a dumb question, but can damaged files cause a drive to fail? It shouldn't. But I've learned form personal experience that a SATA controller that's failing can kill drives; probably from loving up their firmware somehow.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 16, 2015 22:22
|
|
|
If he was using the computer since before IE became somewhat modern, it's likely still running on the old "never bother cleaning anything ever" settings it had in IE6. That should fix itself as soon as you go into the relevant settings menu.
|
|
#
¿
Jul 29, 2015 12:19
|
|
|
NonzeroCircle posted:The PWR header appears to be only for PSU fans, and mine has one already integrated. Just a quick question: What the gently caress is up with that anyway? Are there any PSUs out there that require external power for their fans? Or is it just an ancient relic that everyone is too afraid to get rid of like even modern CPUs booting into Real Mode?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 6, 2015 15:50
|
|
|
HalloKitty posted:It's not the best idea entirely over the drive without knowing what model it is, though, that'll just reduce the lifespan of every cell. Unless it's some ancient relic, it should have a secure erase function. What do you think secure erase does?
|
|
#
¿
Sep 17, 2015 20:43
|
|
|
Large sequential reads will saturate USB 2.0, even for platter drives. But the advantages would be: no moving parts, no noise, lower power draw, never needing to wait for it to spin up, virtually 0 seek time for random access and no sensitivity to sudden motion. Disadvantages include possible data degradation if left unpowered for a year or two and performance degradation if the OS or enclosure don't pass along TRIM commands.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 8, 2015 18:02
|
|
|
Lol if you think the heat spreaders on RAM are for anything other than hiding the actual chips used and pandering to the  crowd.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 19, 2015 00:31
|
|
|
Back in the day every motherboard came with a branded IDE cable. SATA is just too small to put much branding on. That middle bit with the white plastic bit in it is actually what you used to tell the drive if it was the primary (master), or secondary (slave) drive on the channel. You can see the diagram of the options on the drive's label. You might need to set it to master or cable select for the USB enclosure to work, as that setting it's on now doesn't seem like a valid option. (Though it'll probably just default to cable select.)
|
|
#
¿
Dec 19, 2015 22:47
|
|
|
With the amounts you apply while wiping, isopropylalcohol will have fully evaporated within a few minutes. I sometimes use it in the lab to clean solvent-sensitive parts for coating application and don't even bother waiting after wiping it off because it evaporates so fast.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 21, 2015 17:30
|
|
|
SgtSteel91 posted:So my motherboard has Sysfan1, 2, and 3 as well as CPUfan1 and 2. I have three fans that came with the case and one for the cooling unit. Which fans should I plug into Sysfan and CPUfan? My first instinct would be to stick the CPU cooler's fan in CPUfan1 and the case fans into Sysfan1, 2 and 3. Which fan header the case fans are connected to doesn't matter terribly much, but some motherboards have software that can alter their speed on temperature demands, so check the manual if there's a preferred order.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 21, 2015 21:59
|
|
|
Flipperwaldt posted:Or is there some test I could do? Going on reduced fan noise alone isn't very exact. Start up some heavy game set to Ultra, or whichever setting your GPU can just barely make work. Then try again through HDMI at the same settings. Make sure to keep resolution the same across tests. If I remember right, the screen is always driven by the internal graphics. The dedicated GPU is only used to render for the programs the driver is told to look for, and when it's done rendering, it shoves the image to the internal graphics to put on the display.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 27, 2015 21:46
|
|
|
Party Plane Jones posted:I put a new cpu cooler on (versus the stock that I've been using since forever) and whoops I didn't take into account clearance with memory sticks or fan direction. So now I've got a CPU fan trying to pull cool air from the same 1 inch space that my chassis fan is trying to push hot air out. What kind of cooler? If it's like the CoolerMaster Hyper 212 Evo you can just mount the fan on in reverse so it pulls air through the heatsink and out the chassis.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2015 01:43
|
|
|
Yeah, the fan's just held on by those little clips. You should be able to pop it off with little effort.
|
|
#
¿
Dec 31, 2015 02:30
|
|
|
Gorilla Salad posted:Does anyone know any other way to run a large drive under Windows 10? Right-click the grey bit where it says disk 1 and errors, then select convert to GPT. This will destroy all data on the disk, though. So maybe try to uninstall the updates that broke your previous solution and see if that let's you recover your data.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2016 07:09
|
|
|
Oh, oops, you'll have to delete all partitions first. https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc725671.aspx There are some tools that claim to be able to do it without data loss, but I have no idea if they are legit. And they will certainly ruin chances of recovery for your non-standards situation. Good luck figuring out how to fix it if you want to save your data. Maybe a deep scan with Recuva or something similar will let you get some data back once you get your drive back to an accessible state. But I really wouldn't bet on it.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 11, 2016 15:29
|
|
|
You could always just try removing the GPU and using the internal graphics.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 12, 2016 20:11
|
|
|
Is whatever card reader you're using able to handle SDXC, or even SDHC? You might need a driver or firmware update to get it to work with larger cards.
|
|
#
¿
Jan 18, 2016 10:03
|
|
|
Gozinbulx posted:Interesting... though the one you posted is component (not composite) but s-video SHOULD do (i think). Get 4 of these? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814106016R There's also cards with like 6 displayport outputs, you could hilariously daisy-chain converters.  Also, don't those DVI to analog converters require the video card to also send along an analog signal?
|
|
#
¿
Jan 19, 2016 19:39
|
|
|
Mutant Standard posted:Will loose solder short out a computer? I want to solder a wire but this concept is making me paranoid. Can tiny solder dust gently caress up a system? Mutant Standard posted:What if it's a travel computer, so it's being lugged around quite a bit? Sounds like you've never soldered before. You're literally melting metal to bridge a contact, which then solidifies in place. It'll be fine as long as you make a good joint. However, a common rookie mistake is to melt the tin solder onto the iron and then try to stick that onto the wires/contacts. This will at best give you a lovely joint that'll break easily. Get the wires/contacts together, heat those up and press the solder into it to melt a little of it in there (be mindful of heating stuff up too much). Then hold the wires or contacts still while you remove the soldering iron and let them cool. A good joint will look shiny and there shouldn't be (much of) a solder bulge. The best advice I can give you is to practice joining some wires together before trying with your computer or other sensitive electronics.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 16, 2016 00:09
|
|
|
Before you run out to buy a new cable, try reseating the current one. I've had similar issues when the weight of the cable caused the plug to come a little bit loose on the tv side.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 18, 2016 12:24
|
|
|
I recently installed a new hard drive and it has a G-Sense Error Rate S.M.A.R.T. attribute. ...Which is intermittently increasing while the hard drive is securely installed in my stationary computer case. I haven't yet figured out what makes it go up, but I'm also not sure if I should even give a poo poo or not. Google is pretty are pretty loving useless with people having their G-Sense Error Rate going up and then others just copy/pasting the Wikipedia entry for it instead of providing any insight. Any of you guys know if I should just chalk it up to being overly sensitive to vibration from my other mechanical disk spinning up/down with no ill effect to drive health? 
|
|
#
¿
Feb 21, 2016 16:39
|
|
|
Shaocaholica posted:Video related question, not sure if there's a better thread though. AV? Maybe ask in the Let's Play subforum's tech support thread. They should be able to point you in the right direction.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 15, 2016 07:49
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 24, 2024 01:46 |
|
|
chocolateTHUNDER posted:What value would tell you that? Not trying to be snarky, serious question Mainly Hardware ECC recovered.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 22, 2016 21:10
|
|
