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Maybe he pushed the heatspreader into the board? :-D
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Dec 5, 2015 18:52
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 06:50 |
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On a serious note, it's good practice to remove all power source from the board when fitting stuff like that. I even push the on button in just in case it helps discharge any latent voltage in a capacitor. It probably doesn't, but that's just my paranoia/perfectionism.
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Dec 5, 2015 18:55
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I think zip ties may be slightly better than glue: removable and less chance of vibration once the glue sets hard. Just trim them off neat after tying.
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Dec 13, 2015 20:09
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The Behringer UCA202 will plug into a USB port and give you lovely, clear audio through its headphone jack. Find it on Amazon. I would provide a link but I'm on my phone.
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Dec 17, 2015 07:50
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A couple of weeks ago I lost the tiny screw that keeps the hard disk bracket in place under the hood of my laptop. I keep swapping SSD's to try out different Linux distro's, so I was asking for something like this to happen. I bought a small box of assorted PC screws from eBay and they arrived today, unfortunately the ones I thought looked right in the seller's photo were too big.  Any idea what a smaller variant of ^those would be called in actual mm or inches? The thread looks about the right pitch, but the stem is nearly half as thick. They are quite common around the rest of my laptop if I wanted to remove the underside cover.
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Jan 5, 2016 16:28
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An older Toshiba Satellite C55 series. I couldn't find a manual with sufficiently detailed information but after googling and Wiki'ing I reckon the screws I circled in the pic are probably M3, which means I need to buy some M2 ones. I'll try that. Cheers.
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Jan 5, 2016 17:37
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I remember building a PC for a friend and using some kind of utility to flash all of the bits of my SSD to 1 (or zero) in an instant. We'd both agreed that he was getting my old drive at a discount. I can't remember what the utility was called but there's stuff out there that will effectively delete the entire SSD in a second. I think it writes all ones or zeros to every location at once through the controller hardware. Correct me if I'm wrong or if this is a bad idea. I still see my friend and the SSD is still going strong.
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Jan 8, 2016 06:09
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So what about police forensics being able to pick up child porn or terrorism information from mechanical hard drives then? Is that just a myth or do they have access to more sophisticated techniques than the average data recovery specialist?
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Jan 9, 2016 05:59
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Great! I'll get started on those multiple backups then! -joke disclaimer-
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Jan 9, 2016 06:08
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MasterSlowPoke posted:
Haha! That is excellent. Cherry on the cake is the groaning noise the computer makes when it goes off.
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Jan 9, 2016 06:17
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From a purely theoretical standpoint, my question is thus: I've built a cheap, small form factor PC for someone with a mini ITX board. It has 2x SATA 3 GB/s and 2x SATA 6 GB/s ports on the board. Obviously, I've got the system SSD plugged into one of the 6 GB/s ports and also have an old 2.5" mechanical drive to use for movies. From a technical standpoint does it matter for transfer speeds to and from the OS drive if they're both plugged into the 6 GB/s bus or is it a 'clearer path' to have the SSD sitting on the 6 GB/s bus and the HDD sitting on the 3 GB/s bus? I thank you for reading my rather anal question which is probably pointless in any real world scenario :-D
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Jan 10, 2016 06:45
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Cool. Thanks for the answers chaps. I think I'll always attempt to separate the channels if using a mechanical drive for media, even if doing so is moot. It feels like the best thing to do from a nerdy perspective (without examining how a particular motherboard routes its SATA buses). Cheers.
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Jan 10, 2016 18:43
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Would a pair of homeplug adaptors do the job?
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Mar 2, 2016 09:33
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Breetai posted:Now that's something I've never seen before. Hmm. The building is fairly old and I'm not sure as to the quality of the wiring - would that have an effect? The quality of the wiring will have an effect. In my last place the whole house was a bit old and run down and I got a slower speed than I do now, in a more well maintained house. I was still getting at least 4MB/s in the old place when transferring files from downstairs to upstairs, IIRC. It's worth a shot I'd say.
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Mar 2, 2016 13:09
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On a related note, if you only have 1 socket for TV, PC and powerline adaptor am I right in thinking that it's better for throughput to use a cheap 4-way extension rather than a one that claims to have anti-surge and features an LED? I use the cheap ones under the assumption that they are straight connections clamped together inside and the lack of LED (or other features) ensures that there is nothing to introduce noise to the signal path. Does this sound feasible? I'm in UK, so talking primarily about UK 3-pin power extensions, but I guess US/NZ have the same items.
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Mar 3, 2016 00:40
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If you think you're in danger of cooking it by June I'd say turn the sucker down and save it because it could be useful in a home server or as a donation to someone who needs a decent machine for general use. As for the temps I have no idea.
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Mar 6, 2016 22:28
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Rookoo posted:I'm planning on streaming content from PC to a non-smart tv downstairs, and am looking for a device that does this. As already said, the Raspberry Pi running Kodi will not interfere with your PC too much: just set up a shared folder on the PC and tell Kodi where it is. Any video files you pop in the shared folder on the PC will be accessible in Kodi. I currently run a Raspberry Pi 2 this way. If you go for this option it's a bit more technical because you've got to install Kodi to the sdcard on the Pi. I've used the original Pi this was and a Pi 2. The Pi 2 is 100x better at Kodi due to better performance. Definitely use the second gen Pi if you go this route. There's an easier option, though. Just install Plex server on the PC and stick a Chromecast in the TV. If you have a smartphone pay for the Plex app and you're good to go. Any media you add to the Plex server and then play via Plex will be transcoded invisibly in the background on your PC and streamed to the TV. You have a solid i5 processor in that PC, so the performance hit on the PC should be negligible. Both solutions could be hampered if you have a really bad router or poor connectivity around your house. If not, you'll be fine.
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Apr 17, 2016 04:25
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Random thought of the day: We know that a CPU can last for decades if treated right: no extreme overclocking/overvolting. However, when most of us turn our PC on in the morning the CPU core is going from 18°C to 60°C plus in the space of a minute. This sort of repeated temperature change over time should be enough to degrade most circuit boards, so how come a CPU can handle it?
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Apr 19, 2016 04:28
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Fair enough. I should've changed the opening line to 'stupid thought of the day'.
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Apr 19, 2016 16:00
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Is it worth adding a RAID controller to my Gigabyte J1800 home server? There are only two SATA ports on the board and I'm running two mechanical drives in there at the moment: one containing OS and data, with a weekly cron job to rsync the data from the main drive to drive 2. There's a mini PCIE slot on the board and I'm thinking about increasing storage and adding some proper redundancy.
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May 8, 2016 07:26
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I'll have a look at AM1, since low power is a priority. Cheers!
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May 8, 2016 13:43
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A stab in the dark, but the HD videos you're trying to play aren't in the new-fangled x265 codec format, are they?
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May 14, 2016 12:09
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I think your only option outside of buying new hardware is to put up with heavier resources and enjoy your movies  I think all of the Skylake CPU's can do x265 hardware decoding. Not sure about GPU's or AMD stuff.
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May 15, 2016 00:10
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So you have a hub, a length of cable and a headphone(s). All are connected. If the hot bit was where the headphone meets the cable I'd say that it's the headphone at fault, since the headphone is trying to draw excessive power. If the hot bit was at the hub/cable junction I'd say it's heat coming from a faulty hub.
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May 26, 2016 23:23
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It could still be the headset, though. If the short was drawing a large amount of power at the headset it could be draining most of the power that the hub could supply and starving the other connected devices of power, so they'd all appear offline.
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May 29, 2016 19:00
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Is there a sure fire way to rescue an SD card? More specifically microSD. I'm trying to get a 16GB Samsung one back into a serviceable state after having crashed in a Raspberry Pi ages ago. I just want to bung a load of mp3's on it for listening to in the car. I've tried Windows storage management, which says it cannot be formatted. Tried gparted, which seems to hang, then allows me to create a partition table, then displays no changes to the partition scheme. Tried writing a couple of different OS iso files to it using dd. It became borked fairly quickly by the Raspberry Pi and I switched to using a SanDisk one instead, so this Samsung one hasn't had much wear and tear. It's even causing my PC to hang if I leave it plugged in whilst booting fedora. (dmesg repeatedly displays io error for sector 31291136 during shutdown). Should I try dd'ing /dev/zero to it? Is it goosed?
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May 31, 2016 22:10
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Yeah. I was tired and left it overnight doing 'dd if=/dev/zero' to fill it with blank. I thought that would obliterate partitions but there are still two partitions there and the card is mainly unresponsive. Gonna order another.
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Jun 1, 2016 04:27
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I've got two 16GB SanDisk's on the way. For some reason I've had no luck with Samsung's in the RasPi.
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Jun 5, 2016 20:42
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There's no need to spend that much on an 80cm fan. The Arctic Cooling F8 should suit your needs for about 10 bucks. There's even a temperature controlled version if you want it to self-regulate its speed (the F8 TC). I've used both for a non-critical bit of case cooling and they're very good value for money.
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Jun 6, 2016 18:51
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Not sure. It's worth a shot before you start 3D printing bespoke brackets. If you get the TC version it has like a 10cm wire with the temp sensor on the end: you can stick the sensor where you think is relevant and if you find a good spot it might save tweaking things whilst the rig is on.
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Jun 6, 2016 21:16
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That was quick! Glad it worked.
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Jun 7, 2016 05:21
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Take the drive out and find out what type it is (2.5"? SATA?). Then buy an appropriate enclosure. If it's SATA you can just plug it into a spare SATA port on a desktop PC to get the important data off. Edit to add: make sure that the PC is turned off while you plug a hard drive into the motherboard's SATA connector. DeaconBlues fucked around with this message at 18:52 on Jul 20, 2016 |
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Jul 20, 2016 18:43
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I'd be more concerned about the smell being generated and maybe switch to some kind of thermal paste.
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Aug 24, 2016 23:59
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 06:50 |
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I think I've had a motherboard not boot before after rebuilding a PC. I checked the RAM and it was clicked in, but because I'd checked everything else that would've prevented booting I took it out and reseated it. It booted. I'm sure the above happened a couple of years ago, and my brain hasn't mis-remembered it. So, RAM can be a bit funny sometimes.
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Sep 2, 2016 23:46
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