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I've been having pretty weird performance issues with my PC. I have a 3570k at stock currently with a TC14PE on it, a MSI 780ti Gaming, 16GB of 1600MHZ C8 Ram, and the only drive in my system is a 1TB 840 EVO. I've been slowly upgrading my system to remove every bottleneck I can, but I still get REALLY lovely performance in games. Games that my 780ti should be handling with ease are really chuggy. I get around 30FPS in Borderlands 2, 40~ in Far Cry 3, 200 down to 70~ in TF2 (!), less than 60 on occasion in minecraft for Christ's sake. Really inconsistent, droppy framerate too. The CPU runs at around 40C under load, the GPU 65C. I just can't see what could be causing such terrible performance. Could it be somehow related to my motherboard? I have a Asus P8Z77-V, and if I run a DPC latency checker it is over 1000μs which is like 10 times what reviews say it should be.
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Sep 15, 2014 13:57
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Alereon posted:I'd suggest updating to the latest motherboard BIOS, loading default BIOS settings, and ensuring you have the latest Intel Chipset and Rapid Storage Technology software installed. Background software can also cause high DPC latency, so remove anything you're not using. If you still need help, a Haus of Tech Support thread would probably be most appropriate. I have the latest BIOS from Asus, I reset my CMOS when I put the new cooler on, and I have a very recent install of Windows 8.1 64bit so I've got the latest INF/RST drivers etc and very minimal installs. My DPC latency was also absurdly high (1000+) on my last windows install on a HDD. Can DPC latency cause the sorts of performance issues I am seeing? Thanks for your help, I'll probably cobble together a Haus thread tomorrow.
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Sep 15, 2014 14:11
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I currently use a Phanteks TC14PE with three fans on it, which is of course ridiculously chilly and rather quiet. My new semi-passive 980 has spoiled me however, so I'm curious if the TC14PE would run fine fanless. I'm happy to run it at stock clocks with the fans removed all the time, but the best possible setup would be having the fans turn off at idle when they are 100% unneeded, and then ramp up under load to control an overclock. Is there any way of having a semi-passive CPU cooler setup like this?
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Nov 11, 2014 03:12
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Rukus posted:You'd want to look for fans that have PWM (4-pin connectors vs the standard 3-pin) then set the fan curve via your motherboard BIOS or fan controller software. You'll also need the appropriate fan splitter for PWM, for three fans something like this, or this for two. I know all this. My fans are all PWM and are all plugged into PWM headers (using a PWM splitter for the back two). The fan curve on my ASUS motherboard does not allow me to set the fans lower than 20%, I want a way around this. Additionally I was curious as to whether I could run the thing without fans at all and still get fine temps for stock clocks (maybe with an undervolt if necessary).
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Nov 11, 2014 05:05
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Alereon posted:Are you sure you can't do this on your board? In the Asus AI Suite I go to FanXpert, enable Smart Mode for the fan, and there's an Auto Fan Stop checkbox that stops the fan when it's below the temperature needed to trigger the minimum controllable speed. Fan control features do vary by board, but make sure you have the latest BIOS, AI Suite software, and have run the fan profiling tool if applicable. I looked into it some more. It appears that the newer Asus boards can do semi-passive, but my board just doesn't seem to have the option (P8Z77-V). Interestingly enough I'm actually currently using the version of AI Suite bundled with the old Hero, as it was the only Z77 Asus board that had its software updated to Windows 8.1, and it doesn't have the same level of control I didn't when I used the proper download on my old Windows 7 install. My old install had the fan profiling option and also the auto setup/optimisation (but no auto stop unless I'm misremembering), but as it is now I only have a simple fan curve with limited options (20% minimum, always runs at 100% past 72°c). It appears to be a BIOS limitation the 20% though. Even going through the BIOS I cannot enter any value lower than 20% without it giving me a "value out of range" error. Computer initially wouldn't even boot with the cooler installed as the BIOS thought the fans were too slow  .I'll probably look into undervolting and taking the fans off, or a separate fan controller. Thanks for the link!
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Nov 11, 2014 21:10
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eljackass posted:Short question re: power supplies: This is more a question for the parts picking thread, but Newegg has the EVGA 500B for $35 after rebate (link). Don't go any lower than this.
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Nov 20, 2014 01:18
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The backblaze thing can be safely ignored. The Seagate drives used by backblaze are consumer drives "shucked" from cheap external drives, and then placed in a "pod" with literally zero vibration protection so they shake themselves to death. These are not drives or conditions you will get if you buy a barracuda and place it in your case, and under those circumstances the fail rates between companies are virtually identical, with Seagate actually close to the best. Backblaze themselves still use a majority of Seagate drives and continue to buy them more than any other OEM. A "pod", 
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Apr 14, 2015 08:48
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Sappo569 posted:Not a hardware question really but... I have the exact same issue. No idea how to fix it, but you aren't alone!
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Jul 5, 2015 02:30
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FaustianQ posted:I've finally got my case at reasonable temperatures, CPU is only hitting 49°C under load with my NH-14S. However, not to pleased with the Noctua Brown/Biege clashing with the white/blue/black and was wondering if I could get a replacement 140mm fan, would a PH-F140HP work fine? Would there be any performance loss? Fans are confusing, everything about them seems to be misleading as hell. SilentPC did a heatsink fan roundup quote:The Phanteks PH-F140HP/TS is the clear winner in every respect. It edged out the new Noctuas every step of the way, delivering the best overall results of any fan we've tested thus far. To top it off, it had cleanest, smoothest sound of all the new fans in this roundup. If we had to start from scratch, this might be our new reference model. I think you'll be just fine.
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Aug 22, 2015 01:38
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knowonecanknow posted:I'm thinking about building a ZFS NAS. I was originally going to get WD Reds but the description says don't stick more than 6 in a box and I was planning 16 in my chassis. Should I stick with the reds or go enterprise? WD makes Red Pro drives which are specifically made for this use case (8-16 drives). They're a bit more pricey but still much cheaper than going enterprise.
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Oct 19, 2015 22:12
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There aren't really any options to upgrade internet in Australia, short of spending ludicrous money on a 4G hotspot and data.
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Nov 3, 2015 02:28
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SlayVus posted:Okay, was playing GTA V earlier today and my computer randomly shutdown while playing. Computer rebooted itself and the UEFI displays an error. Textbook failing power supply. It can run on the low energy demands at idle, but under load it can't provide the fully capacity due to aging/worn components. You can't go wrong with a Seasonic XP3 based unit, so it will make you happy.
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Nov 3, 2015 07:48
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cisco privilege posted:I have a 1050 XM2 from the same general series and it owns, you won't be disappointed. Depending on how much power you use it should be pretty quiet. I think the fan on my unit has only been on 3 or 4 times. The snow silents are XP3, which is Seasonics newest top end platform. So even more baller. The super high quality FDB fan is a big plus too. Honestly if I was building a new personal computer it would be my top choice, because I'm a sucker for white. SlayVus posted:Would a 750 be sufficient for SLI 980 Ti or an I better off with the 1050? I would honestly go for the 1050. Two overclocked 980tis is about 600w, which doesn't leave much headroom for your CPU overclock and peripherals. You'll be closer to the efficiency sweet spot too, and the overbuilt components will let the fan stay off for longer.
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Nov 4, 2015 01:22
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McGiggins posted:Excellent advice, but it only came with a one year warranty which expired in March, according to the tool If you're Australian then you are covered by the Australian Consumer Law, which is basically a government enforced refund/replacement warranty. If you get in touch with the place you bought it from they should be able to help you out. If they don't cooperate then you can get in touch with the consumer protection board for your state (Google it). For a $1700 monitor you'd be covered by the ACL for a long, long time.
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Nov 26, 2015 14:28
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In a pinch you can use a multimeter alongside a paper clip to short the PS_ON pin.
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Nov 28, 2015 03:39
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teagone posted:What video card are you planning on getting? If it's a GTX 970, I run mine on an Antec VP-450 swimmingly, paired with a Core i3-4330. A VP-450 can be had for like $30 after rebate or coupons, and its normal price is around $40 or so. It's likely the best PSU you can get at/or under the $40 price point imo, if you're looking to save some money. I've been using it in every system build I've done for myself, friends, and family since 2012—7 in builds in total—and each PC has been running since without issue. The VP-450 is a piece of poo poo that nobody should buy, you can get an EVGA 500B for the same price that is better in every way.
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Dec 7, 2015 09:08
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Alereon posted:I'm not sure why anyone would say "RAM is RAM", there's definitely huge differences in quality between Tier 1/2/3 manufacturers. It's always worth paying the extra 5-10% for components from a good quality brand. Here's how I'd say it stacks up for RAM: KLEVV is the first party vendor for (highly regarded) memory manufacturer SK Hynix, so I dunno why you'd put them as bottom tier. Avexir is also a highly regarded brand for high bin memory (think $1000+ DDR3-3200 kits), and popular with overclockers.
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Dec 19, 2015 02:36
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Alereon posted:Max out the pointer speed and check "enhance pointer precision", control mouse sensitivity via DPI. "Enhanced Pointer Precision" is mouse acceleration which is pretty critical for a mouse-based UI. Max pointer speed is not 1:1, which is bad. He wants pointer speed at notch 6 of 11. Pointer precision is mouse acceleration, yes. 99% of gamers don't want mouse acceleration as it feels inconsistent and bad. If you want acceleration in game (unlikely), its best to enable it at the end of the chain (in-game).
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Dec 26, 2015 07:23
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Alereon posted:Thanks for the correction on the pointer speed setting, but regarding pointer precision since you want mouse acceleration enabled in Windows but NOT in games it makes the most sense to enable it in Windows and disable it in your per-game profile in your mouse settings. I couldn't imagine trying to use Windows without mouse acceleration enabled. If you have mouse acceleration enabled in windows you will also have mouse acceleration in every game that doesn't use raw input (a staggering percentage). I personally hate mouse acceleration with a mouse in windows, as do most of my friends. It throws off your muscle memory. It is absolutely critical if you are using a touchpad or similar though.
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Dec 26, 2015 08:19
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Hey, so this afternoon I'm driving my computer to my mates place about an hour away. I want to make sure that nothing is damaged in transport. The case is a CM690 ii advanced, so a pretty bulky ATX case. The biggest things I'm worried about are the TC14PE cooler and the GTX 980 GPU. I can have the computer upright in the passenger seat, but I'm considering putting it flat in my boot to avoid torsion on the motherboard from the cooler. Only problem with the boot is that it would be more likely to slide around as it has quite a bit of room. Is there a preferred method? The computer has no HDDs so I'm not worried about that.
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Jul 21, 2016 04:37
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Wilford Cutlery posted:There is onboard video, but when I tried using it I get "System Halted!" message on startup, telling me I have an add-in video card but the monitor is plugged into the onboard video Look in your BIOS for "iGPU multi monitor" or similar. By default on most systems the onboard graphics is disabled when a PCIE card is installed.
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Mar 21, 2017 06:06
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RME posted:i'm not sure where this would go so i'll dump it here What's your motherboard and do you plug your headphones into the front or the back of your case? And yes, it's interference. Your computer is basically a big box of RF radiation that your poorly shielded onboard sound is picking up. I ask if you are using the front panel connectors because the cable running accross your case to the front panel is commonly the worst offender. If you are using the front panel connectors, moving to the back panel might fix the issue. A separate DAC/AMP will completely fix the issue, assuming you don't sit it next to a high powered router or anything.
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May 15, 2017 06:32
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