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Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Couldn't find anything relating off a brief look;

Is there a thread dedicated to Roomba modding?

I feel like tinkering with my soldering iron and making my roomba smarter at navigation

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Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

MTV Crib Death posted:

My FPS has suddenly gone to poo poo and I'm tearing my hair out trying to figure out why. I even did a fresh OS install hoping that it would work, but I'm running into the same problems.

I played through Sleeping Dogs last year with 60+ frames per second and now I'm lucky to get 22 on the same game. Newer games are even worse.

Windows 8.1 Pro
Intel i5 3.30Ghz
16 GB RAM
GeForce 660ti

If anyone has any clues at all to what is suddenly happening, I'd be grateful.

Do you have some sort of paging file setup, is your primary HDD full?

Sounds stupid I know, but worth a check

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Ciaphas posted:

If I can figure out the timings, speed, and CAS latency (Speccy will tell me that, right?), I can buy RAM from whatever brand and it doesn't matter, right?

Basically I want to upgrade from 8GB to 16GB without having to buy two 8GB sticks, is all.

(ed: just so I'm clear, I'm at work for a few hours so I can't check)

It's one of those technical grey areas, as others stated.

You COULD buy 2 different 4gb sticks from 2 different manufacturers, and the chance of them all working together perfectly is a healthy 15%.

Unless the ram you bought is super special I'm sure you can find the same ones you already have for sale, either brand new or on ebay.

TL:DR Think of RAM like spark plugs for your car, mixing and matching is just a recipe for headache

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

LingeringDoubt posted:

I've got a question about USB hubs. I've recently purchased a Thrustmaster HOTAS so I can pretend to be a pilot while I surf porn (like real pilots do) along with a set of rudder pedals. I've run into something that I should have anticipated but didn't, and that's a shortage of USB ports.

Right now I have four USB 3.0 ports, and four USB 2.0 ports, provided by my motherboard and case. I've been eyeballing some 6 and 7 port USB 3.0 hubs, but the advertising blurb on them all speaks about their ability to charge devices. I'm not concerned about charging things, I want low latency communication with my peripherals. I seem to remember having problems with my headset if it isn't plugged into a USB 3.0 port, but how necessary is USB 3.0 for something like a joystick? Is there any difference at all beside price and aesthetics between the various hubs on the market?


Alereon posted:

USB 2.0 is 480 megabits per second, even with overhead that's easily 30MB/sec, which is more than enough for nearly anything. Based on a quick Google USB hubs seem to add much less than 1 millisecond of latency, though I'm sure there exists some hub that is worse, your average generic Chinese hub should be just fine. Like most simple devices you'll see a reliability curve where the cheapest devices don't work for poo poo, slightly more expensive devices work great, and paying any more than that doesn't get you much more. I'd get a Rosewill hub from Newegg that has a lot of sales and 4-5 eggs, it's hard to go wrong considering the price.

Make sure you plug your hub into a USB port provided by the chipset, not one of the additional USB 3.0 controllers. That's one of the biggest factors for compatibility, the ASMedia controller just isn't going to work quite as well as either USB 2.0 or 3.0 ports provided by the chipsets. Some devices (like mice and keyboards) sometimes prefer USB 2.0 ports for some reason, even though USB 3.0 ports should be completely backwards compatible, the extra SuperSpeed pins would just not be connected. It could be computer voodoo, but it works if you believe it does.

Only thing I didn't see mentioned is powered versus unpowered hubs

For something like running your HOTAS it's probably a good idea to get a powered hub, don't rely on the power via the USB port to keep everything running. I have a 4 port hub with my pedals, trackir, and X-55 plugged into it, and it performs quite well

Although sometimes I have to unplug and replug the power on the hub to get it to pickup the devices :arghfist:

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Not a hardware question really but...

I use chrome and noticed the past few weeks I keep seeing the little yellow triangle with exclamation mark for my profile

I'll click the dialog, sign back in, use my auth code sent to my phone, and it fixes everything

5-10 minutes later the the triangle is back, and it's asking for authorization again.

Read a few people having the same problem, and completely signing out of the account and back in usually fixes it, but not for me!

It seems like everything works fine, I can see my browser history on my phone etc, so its obviously keeping the account synced.. thoughts?

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

I just got my new system built and running the other day, its a 4790k cpu on a Sabretooth MKII board

Everything is looking great, temps idling in the low 30's across the board

However the Vcore temp is around 60-62 while sitting in windows... that doesn't seem right?

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Blarfo posted:

My old laptop doesn't have HDMI out... Is there anything I can do to add HDMI out to it? I wanted to use it to try steam inhome streaming.

http://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters...rds=usb+to+hdmi

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Khanstant posted:

Yesterday morning when I turned on my computer it was giving me an error, ran diagnostic whatever, and its not detecting my hard drive, presumably because its dead or something. Especially since its kind of a mysterious computer, and the hard drive situation was actually two hard drives configured in a RAID, only one of the hard drives was smaller in space and was actually a laptop hard drive in some weird exoskeleton the size of a normal HDD. Anyway, this basically means my data is all gone and computer broken so I should just go ahead and build a new one, right?

So did you disconnect the raid before, or is it still configured as such?

Because that would mean you data is on at least 1 of the drives

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

I have need for a mini pc/server, as small as possible but able to run Windows, IIS, SQL, and that sort of thing without any issues.

Also ability to raid a few drives would be nice, drives can be external to make the form factor not a problem

I found some really mini pc's on amazon etc but they come barebones for the most part I just want a ready to go out of the box solution

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Here's one I haven't encountered in many many many years.

A brand new slim pc, and a Arkanis 12 port PoE switch.

PoE switch is supporting a few cameras, another pc, server, etc.

The situation: I plug the new slim pc into ANY vacant port on the PoE switch and it instantly shuts down half the ports, like watching the mgmt page of the switch as soon as the connection is plugged in ports 1-10 just blink to no connection

Slim pc runs fine, just that those ports are now essentially disabled.

As soon as I unplug the slim pc, all the ports blip back online and all is good.

Tried all the different available ports, different cables etc etc... same thing every-time.

IF I however plug in a cheap rear end trendnet 8 port switch first, then plug the PC into that... everything works hunky dory together.

What in the world would be causing that problem? I looked at the Arkanis settings and there is nothing enabled that I can see, that would cause this problem

Slim PC is set to DHCP, and I tried it with a static IP, same problem

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Rexxed posted:

Slim PC probably has some out of spec ethernet port that is messing with and/or shorting the PoE power on its ethernet line. PoE switches shouldn't send power unless the device asks for it (IIRC) but maybe that mini pc is causing some kind of havoc with it. I'd either get one of those PoE splitter devices or just leave a small switch hooked up to the mini pc, as stupid as that is (a 5 port switch is often be cheaper than a PoE splitter).

Maybe if I try just telling it not to send power to that port under any circumstances? There are various options for disabling Power and making the ports plain old Ethernet only... never thought about it though

I can try tomorrow, I just didn't think something so simple would completely kill a not-cheap switch like that

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Rexxed posted:

Slim PC probably has some out of spec ethernet port that is messing with and/or shorting the PoE power on its ethernet line. PoE switches shouldn't send power unless the device asks for it (IIRC) but maybe that mini pc is causing some kind of havoc with it. I'd either get one of those PoE splitter devices or just leave a small switch hooked up to the mini pc, as stupid as that is (a 5 port switch is often be cheaper than a PoE splitter).

Stranger and stranger

I turned off all poe features to a port and plugged it in there , same thing. As soon as the link is live ALL poe ports are shut down and the only active link is the one the slim pc is plugged into

Tempted to contact the manufacturer and see if they have ever seen this before

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Rexxed posted:

That does seem weird as hell, almost definitely some kind of issue with their ethernet port that doesn't affect a dumb switch. I wonder if it's all of them or if you just got a faulty one. Maybe they soldered some of the pins together by accident but they're not normal data pins or something.

I wish the pc had two data ports to try , I should check the bios and see if there is some strange setting enabled

The switch itself is pretty new and functions 100% normally with everything else

I have a usb Ethernet dongle I should try it just for shits and giggles on the pc

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

SlayVus posted:

Weird thought, but is the switch a Gigabit switch? Are there other devices handshaking at a 100 Mbps connection and the on a Gigabit? Could you enforce 100 Mbps on all ports?

It is gigabit. There are 2 or 3 devices connected at gigabit , And 4 more at 100

Of note I may have missed , all the 100 connections are cameras , which are pulling power.

The other connections operating at gigabit are other pcs or direct links to other switches , which remain active while the camera ports are the ones that crap out

Specifically , the units pulling power crap out , regular Ethernet seems to remain up

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Fart.Bleed.Repeat. posted:

If you apply external power supply(POE injector or wall plug) do the cameras continue working with just passing ethernet?
Also I may have missed if you said, but are all the ports powered, or is this a switch with some POE and some not?

Agreed that something is not upto standard and is freaking it out, whether its the cameras or your slim PC, who knows

Some of the cameras are a whole ball of poo poo to begin with. They're running on old 2 pair wire and fed into an nvt2 to bring them over to Ethernet. It's complicated. However at least one of the cameras is a brand new poe camera connected normally and it shuts down as well

Yes all the ports are powered

I mean it works as is with the pc into a small switch plugged in the main poe switch , I just hate daisy changing poo poo like that it looks sloppy and triggers me

I'll futz around with it next week just for giggles because I like to know why things don't work like expected

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

So maybe my brain is tired but I can't really think of a good solution for this problem

Situation - parents house has digital tv, comes in on a modem and is fed to the t.v. box via cat5. Router attached to modem which feeds the pc and wifi devices

We are giving them a new tv and steam box for Christmas , and I want to hardwire the steam box to the network

How would o accomplish this easily , as my only option in my head seems to be to run another cat5 across the room from the router , to the steam box behind the tv

I tried to eliminate the 2nd router and use the modem/Router combo the isp provided , but it won't grab any dhcp for the pc when plugged in , So I'm assuming they lock it down to only work with the tv boxes for some reason

Am I over thinking this , what am I missing ?

I tried to get into the isp modem but the default password I found online doesn't work

Bah

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Ola posted:

E-mail them and ask. Could be that there's something wrong with it, or it could be in bridge mode. (Also of course, reboot etc.) Also, the steam box probably works very well on WiFi, particularly across the room. Do you want to wire it for lag or download speeds? Perhaps do a test from a laptop. If you can max out the connection and get good ping, no problem.

I'll check how it performs over wifi during Christmas , once everything is installed

I almost always default to wired for stuff like that as I know wifi can introduce lag and jitters especially when you're doing streaming of games

Even if I had to absolutely had to hard wire it in , it's really no other option than run another cable is there. I think I could do fancy things with the existing and vlans but that is way above the scope of work for my parents basement

Blue On Blue fucked around with this message at 19:16 on Nov 27, 2017

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

fishmech posted:

Why don't you want to just run the cable? It's the simplest solution, and especially within just the one room it's easy to run it in sn unobtrusive way, including tucking it behinf furniture and under carpet edges.


The Xbox One controller is supported by just about everything on Windows these days, no special software needed.

Not my basement, we recently renovated the whole thing and the walls are nice pristine freshly painted etc... my mom would flip a turd if I poked another hole in the wall for a network jack

I wondered about the powerline adapter as I use a set myself at home, would perform at least as good as a decent wifi setup I think

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Stupid seemingly easy to fix windows 10 issue

Was using my desktop the other day when windows comes up with a windows found errors on your drive, to fix it reboot

I reboot and get a blue screen, now the pc will not boot at all. Just instant blue screen

0xc000000e

I figured the ssd was failing, so I cloned it quickly to save the data

Other pc could see the drive well enough. and it cloned no problems

I pushed the cloned copy over to a brand new ssd. Plug it in and bam Same blue screen

Did some googling and tried having windows repair , it wouldnt

Tried chkdsk and such. No dice

Tried some google results to fix the mbr and such kept getting errors about unable to access the drive

Any help would be great

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

TITTIEKISSER69 posted:

Replace the cable?

See if your BIOS switched out of UEFI or Legacy mode, or ATA/AHCI/RAID.

Tried a few cables, maybe the slot on the mobo is the problem?

I read about the uefi - ata etc etc but I'm so far behind in my knowledge I'm not sure what it should be set as I think I tried all the options in the bios though

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

sebmojo posted:

Reseat everything, particularly memory. Try the hd in another computer.

Will try , when I did plug it in to another PC o clone the drive before it didnt like that, I had to hot plug it in after windows was already running to see the drive and perform the clone

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Geoj posted:

Was this through installation media or the built-in startup repair?

If you attempted the latter and not the former give it a try. I've seen the installation media repair function work when nothing else would.

Well , I had our IT guy come and look. His solution was to wipe the drive and install windows


Great, installed fine. I just finished setting most of my stuff up and did a restart to finalize some programs

Now I'm getting reboot and select proper boot device

This has to be related to eufi or whatever , I've tried all the bios options uefi on. Legacy mode on , drive is in ahci mode ( only other option is Intel optane)

Its driving me insane the drive is there. Its visible in the bios. It simply refuses to use it as a boot device

I reseated the ram. Check all cables

And tried other SATA ports just now, swapping cables around between other devices that work

:EDIT:

I know one of the problems before the wipe was a partition issue, in that somehow the main partition was turned into some weird type I've never seen before (GPT?)

And that made windows not want to load on it, so it had to be wiped.

I wonder if it somehow keeps making itself a GPT parition and the BIOS doesn't know what to do with it??


Blue On Blue fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Aug 4, 2018

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Quick question , I'm looking to setup a video wall for work

What is the goto solution these days , is it still matrox or something cards ?

I'm pretty sure a high end nvidia card can run 3 or 4 devices, but how well does that work for making a video wall setup that is seamless?

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Fragrag posted:

What kind of media needs to be played on it? My work generally uses BrightSign players which seem to be like enterprise level Raspberry Pis which were designed to be media players. I’ve never messed around with them myself but they seem pretty reliable and stable for the sometimes absurd things we need to do.

Not media so much as I just need a massive windows desktop

Then I have a few surveillance camera windows I can place in any orientation I need

Problem is the surveillance program is pretty GPU and CPU intensive , having 20 odd HD cameras live streaming is enough. Past that it starts to get slow

And I eventually need to support probably closer to 50 cameras if not 60

So it's not so much how do I get 4 big screens together , but how do I support the program(s) I'm trying to display across them all at once

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Sniep posted:

just a quick question but have you ever considered approaching this horizontally instead of just beefing up a single box to infinity?

Sorry not sure what you mean by horizontal .... is that virtualization ?

I'm old school in my knowledge I only really know about running clients and servers and such

How else should I be approaching this ?

The setup is a surveillance desk. Where the person is viewing the feeds from a few locations, plus other programs they need on screen

Right now I'm using one desktop to do email and also run the surveillance program, with two more computers running a monitor each for other tasks needed for the desk

So I end up with basically 4 monitors , and 3 PC's

I want to keep the desktop for the person to use for email and surfing. But a dedicated video wall that can run all the surveillance without having to require a user to login and out each time. Its just always up

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Rexxed posted:

I think he's just saying that if your one PC can't handle the extra load more cameras will put on the system, use more surveillance camera PCs instead of trying to cram it all into one. I would've called it parallel instead of horizontal but I think that's the gist.

right

that goes back to the question, how do I build a video wall, that can accept output from multiple streams

so if i have two dedicated machines running the surveillance software, i would need to pipe both into the video wall

or maybe I'm missing the forest for the trees here and there is a really good solution someone had thought of 10 years ago, but this is all new to me

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

Sniep posted:

horizontal as in just multiple concurrent workers instead of one bigger worker, could it be split between a few pcs for a dozen cams a piece or something and then aggregated.

i'd be fascinated to hear if anyone has pro experience in how this is designed. I know my synology nas offers encoding licenses per camera, and it ain't cheap

and that has nothing to do with a video wall, just caught up to that

i've worked in NOCs for a loonnng rear end time and it's usually handled by a bunch of PCs that each drive individual screens or screen matrices but it's literaly something that requires janitoring it regularly, at least in the places i've worked

yeah i'd be curious to see how they do it with the big monitoring stations

our NVR is top notch, and they have software that will run ON a video wall to allow free placement of multiple surveillance windows etc, but i need to build and have the video wall running first



same idea but on a much smaller scale, how do?

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

FCKGW posted:

What surveillance software are you using?

I run Blue Iris and home and the way most people run it is on a headless server. You setup the server to record video at full resolution but you access the camera feeds via a WebUI or Java program that can run on a low powered box like a RasPI or something similar. The server hands out a lower resolution multi-cam display at less FPS instead of the system trying to display 20+ 2mp video feeds on one graphics card. You can then click on a feed and get a single, full resolution feed.

I might be stating the obvious and not solving your problem though.

everything is march networks, the NVR is headless and the client pulls up the feeds with the surveillance center software

I AM streaming full HD full frame from all the cameras, but we are running a gig network so no problem with bandwidth.

Maybe that's part of the problem, but I also don't want to sacrifice frame rate or quality if I can help it, as the cameras are critical, hence why someone is monitoring them 24/7

Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

dreadmojo posted:

speaking of startup, my keyboard input is incredibly slow (one character ever five seconds) after restarting for about a minute; I'm on an SSD, i5 and it's good and zippy all the rest of the time. I've tried some basic troubleshooting and done a bunch of searching, but haven't managed to identify anything. The processor isn't jammed up on restarts, so it's not that.

Frustratingly I found something a while back, a cmd-exe string that fixed it for a while, but I forgot what it was and can't find it again. Something to do with ip addresses/ipconfig?

Sounds like USB issues if anything, have you tried unplugging all other USB devices to isolate the keyboard?

Or install the latest USB driver for the actual ports in windows

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Blue On Blue
Nov 14, 2012

lllllllllllllllllll posted:

Thanks Fame Douglas and Geemer. We have only one LAN cable downstairs that ideally needs to connect two devices (my PC and another device) online. But the second device only needs to be connected rarely, like, once a week if at all. So I thought an always-on network switch was a bit overkill and waste of power. Another solution is a LAN splitter, in that only one device is connected at a time, which would be fine, but it would also reduce bandwidth all the time. USB-WLAN also works as a workaround for me (not the other device) but I would naturally prefer the cable. Hm.

You'll get better answers than this but wireless mice/keyboard are absolutely fine, barely adding milliseconds (not noticeable). I own a G305 and use it in power-saving mode (meaning "only" polling 125/sec) and it''s fine for games and the battery was inserted in March or so. It's pretty great overall (if you choose Logitech look up their older Gaming Software 9.02, as the newer stuff is worse though).

Do you know how the cable is 'run'

Is it secured inside the walls or just loose?

There is always the possibility of pulling another cable through, either through fishing or using the existing cable as the pull-string

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