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Not 100% sure, but kinda sounds like you need a new drum unit.
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# ¿ Dec 24, 2018 23:14 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 08:41 |
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Statutory Ape posted:For just migrating a windows install from one SSD to another would yall say EaseUS is the way to go? What would then be a good tool to remove the old install off the old SSD? Preferably not reformatting since I just put like 700gb of games on it Get Macrium Reflect Free. After that, get gparted (either download their live image or get the latest version of Ubuntu) for partition editing.
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# ¿ Dec 25, 2018 01:52 |
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Statutory Ape posted:This sounds like good advice that I will follow. I assume you want to delete the Windows partition and enlarge your games partition. Or is it set up differently? If you just want to erase the SSD, either get the manufacturer's secure erase tool, Parted Magic (commercial but cheap) or Google how to ATA secure erase from a Linux command line (this is where a Ubuntu Live USB will come in handy). Lambert fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Dec 25, 2018 |
# ¿ Dec 25, 2018 02:08 |
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Statutory Ape posted:ill explain a bit better i guess. i had just one physical SATA SSD in there that had everything on it, windows, games, etc. i added an NVME SSD and I want to migrate the windows install from the SATA to that, then remove the old OS install on the original SATA to free up the space In that case, either ATA secure erase the old SSD (see my post above) and initialize the disk using Windows or skip the erase and create a new partition table using gparted (GPT) or delete it using Disk Management in Windows. The tool you're looking for is probably Disk Cleanup. But Microsoft considers that one to be deprecated, the new version is in Settings -> System -> Storage -> Free up space now.
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# ¿ Dec 25, 2018 02:13 |
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Just noticed your edit/clarification. Easiest would be to copy the game files to a temporary location (external hard drive) before cloning and delete them from the SSD, as I don't think Reflect Free can partially clone. Or you could do a partial backup (just Windows), excluding the games folder, and restore to the new SSD. Lambert fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Dec 25, 2018 |
# ¿ Dec 25, 2018 02:16 |
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Red_Fred posted:Thanks I'll check out the RGB software and fan software. Although with the fans I suppose once they are set you don't really need to tweak them much so BIOS is probably fine. I usually have two front fans (filtered) for intake and one in the top back for exhaust, works well. And yes, the CPU cooler should blow towards the back fan in your situation.
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# ¿ Dec 27, 2018 12:09 |
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Indiana_Krom posted:If you install using a USB drive, or pretty much any other type of install media, or any other install routine, it makes 3-4 partitions for who knows what reason. Atomizer posted:One thing I noticed was that when I reinstalled Windows on the NVMe drive it only creates 3 partitions, as opposed to the 4 that are standard on an SATA drive. Three partitions tend to be standard for SATA as well in UEFI mode (even though Microsoft's docs say four). The partitioning scheme shown in the picture with two partitions is a legacy/BIOS emulation scheme. Reinstall for faster boot times. Lambert fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Dec 28, 2018 |
# ¿ Dec 28, 2018 00:24 |
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Atomizer posted:Like I said I did have to do a full reinstallation (and the USB installer creates 4 partitions on SATA, 3 on NVMe.) Edited my post because I checked on my system and apparently it's not congruent with Microsoft documentation: Don't have my desktop with an NVMe drive handy at the moment, but on my laptop with a M.2 SATA SSD, I have just three partitions as well (UEFI mode, of course). So you should be good either way. Lambert fucked around with this message at 01:21 on Dec 28, 2018 |
# ¿ Dec 28, 2018 01:18 |
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You could try running recovery tools like Easus or Recuva. They're of differing quality, so if you can't get the files you need with one tool, another might work.
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# ¿ Dec 30, 2018 15:21 |
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The Lenovo Tiny and Dell Optiplex Micro systems should fit the bill as well, very happy with my Lenovo M710q (M720q is now out)
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# ¿ Jan 16, 2019 12:22 |
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Geoj posted:Word of warning with NUCs and knockoffs - Intel HD graphics is limited to 30hz refresh rates at 4k resolution over HDMI. If a 60hz or higher refresh rate is desired/required make sure whatever you end up buying has a DisplayPort connection of some kind. This isn't true for current NUCs. https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000005571/mini-pcs.html
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# ¿ Jan 17, 2019 00:16 |
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Eletriarnation posted:In my experience you can get HDMI 2.0 out of a DP1.2 port on a NUC with a $20 active adapters; I've had good results with the Plugable branded ones from Amazon. Current NUCs supports HDMI 2.0 directly.
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# ¿ Jan 17, 2019 12:50 |
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ufarn posted:Is there a next big thing coming up in HDD (mass) storage, or is it still the usual "just buy WD, make sure it's 7200 RPM" mantra from the last ten years? Brands don't matter. The best way of judging a drive's quality is how long the manufacturer's warranty is. Also, I wouldn't put a 7200 RPM drive into a desktop - they tend to be noticeably louder than drives spinning slower. And if speed is a concern, a HDD is the wrong product anyways. With high capacity drives, you should be on the lookout for drives with shingled magnetic recording (SMR) - with these drives, bits are written on top of each other (like shingles on a roof). That means that, even if only a single bit is changed, a whole section has to be rewritten. With these drives, writes tend to be extremely slow and they have to reorganize newly written data for hours or even days at a time. They're a bad choice for most applications, but fine if you just need a dumping ground for data that won't change.
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# ¿ Jan 22, 2019 02:15 |
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It's an older device, seems more likely it's mSATA.
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# ¿ Feb 3, 2019 21:29 |
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Crotch Fruit posted:To be more specific, when I Google "mini PCI-e SSD" I get a mini PCI-e msata SSD. What is the device I found, does it actually use mini PCI-e or is it just the same form factor or what? Half Size mSATA Note: Only works with systems with mSATA standard connector. NOT compatible with Mini PCIe slot for WWAN/wireless cards
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# ¿ Feb 3, 2019 22:28 |
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The USB 2.0 standard allows a maximum power draw of 500 mA, USB 3.0 (USB 3.1 Gen 1) 900 mA. So they're certainly out of spec, but most laptops are able to supply more.
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# ¿ Feb 4, 2019 13:27 |
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Try a different PCI-E slot. Or switch to USB audio.
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# ¿ Feb 8, 2019 11:13 |
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Good news, USB 3.0 and USB 3.1 are being renamed a second time for marketing reasons! The timeline: USB 3.0 -> USB 3.1 Gen1 -> USB 3.2 Gen1 USB 3.1 -> USB 3.1 Gen2 -> USB 3.2 Gen2 USB 3.2 -> USB 3.2 Gen2x2
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# ¿ Feb 26, 2019 09:55 |
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Statutory Ape posted:ok i was actually on drugs last night and didnt understand it and now that i am perfectly sober i must admit, i do not understand it Yes, USB 3.0 - which used to be USB 3.1 Gen1 for a while - is now USB 3.2 Gen1. The new USB 3.2 is USB 3.2 Gen2x2
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# ¿ Feb 28, 2019 11:01 |
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Unless you need special features like the optical input the Z has (to connect a console, for example), there's pretty much no need for a dedicated soundcard these days. Virtual headphone surround used to be a distinguishing factor for me, but Windows has that functionality built-in now (Windows Sonic as the default and Dolby Headphone optionally through the "Dolby Access" app in the store).
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# ¿ Mar 1, 2019 13:20 |
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ufarn posted:Anyone know if there are any stores that sell those electric air pressure cleaner things within EU? I don't know what the right term to search for is which makes it a little tricky as well. Something like this? https://www.amazon.de/IT-Dusters-Co...ds=compucleaner
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# ¿ Mar 1, 2019 13:32 |
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The linked one is the more expensive one with two settings, the cheaper one is found here: https://www.amazon.de/Dusters-Compu...9Z43XTDH9GFQVCE I have the dual setting one: Both levels are more powerful than a regular can of air duster, which is pretty good for cleaning out PCs. But you should hold fans you're cleaning, as letting them spin has the potential for wearing out the ball bearing. I'm very happy with it and would buy the CompuCleaner again.
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# ¿ Mar 2, 2019 00:38 |
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FCKGW posted:remember when Sony made their own firewire connection called i.LINK? lol That was actual Firewire, or IEEE1394. Firewire is simply Apple's brandname for it.
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# ¿ Mar 3, 2019 18:33 |
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EssOEss posted:If by kruft you mean Intel® Rapid Storage Technology, I recommend you do install it, since apparently installing it also installs some drivers (or tweaks settings?) and has historically made disk performance markedly better for my PCs (as far as CrystalDiskMark is concerned). If you don't need the management software and just want the controller driver (because you're on a regular PC without any special RAID setup or anything), you can download the driver-only version and install it using Device Manager.
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# ¿ Mar 11, 2019 13:06 |
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Discussion Quorum posted:I want to share a keyboard, mouse, and screen between my work laptop and the PC I am building. I'd like to keep it cheap and don't mind pressing more than one button, but would rather not mess with cables more than necessary. Given that I intend to do some gaming (likely on Linux), should I go with a USB switch over a $50ish KVM? Another option would be getting those Logitech mice and keyboards that can be paired with multiple PCs. I own the K375s keyboard and M590 mouse for that purpose. They don't even require any software to do it.
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# ¿ Mar 14, 2019 18:08 |
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Unmature posted:The audio. Sometimes the mouse will stutter while it happens. I’ve also noticed when I’m wearing headphones that are plugged in through my focusrite interface it doesn’t happen. Which is weird because it seems like more of a processing thing than just the speakers. I've had a defective USB device cause this problem. Could also be some kind of weird driver issue.
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# ¿ Mar 18, 2019 20:06 |
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People sometimes do it after a few years, because the paste dries out a bit over time.
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# ¿ Mar 22, 2019 02:33 |
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Powerline is really terrible; I'd only use it as a last resort, when WiFi isn't any better.
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# ¿ Mar 27, 2019 01:56 |
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sharkytm posted:Oddball HW question: Is there an affordable hardware NTP server out there other than NetBurner ($320 w/ antenna)? I don't need crazy accuracy, but I'd like to have a dedicated piece of hardware (not a Windows Time service on a PC) that can keep the time updated and running locally. I've looked a bunch of hardware options, but the top hit for "inexpensive NTP server" is $800. Not really what I had in mind. Yes, I could run one on a Pi, but I've already got enough SBCs to deal with, and I'm hoping there's a ~$100 option out there. The Fritzbox routers by AVM have an NTP server built in. They're good, but expensive as well and targeted at the European market. Lambert fucked around with this message at 22:16 on Apr 5, 2019 |
# ¿ Apr 5, 2019 22:12 |
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Kingtheninja posted:LG 27md5ka That model seems to have a production error, they put the display in the wrong way around.
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# ¿ Apr 9, 2019 11:39 |
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I use ethanol (ethyl alcohol), just because that one is way easier to get everywhere in Europe than isopropyl alcohol (pretty much every supermarket and druggist has it). It's used in labs to clean equipment, it's fine for CPU usage.
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# ¿ Apr 14, 2019 23:47 |
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Is there a Bluetooth receiver that allows me to use a Bluetooth keyboard even when the OS doesn't provide support (like during installation or in the UEFI?). Seems like this functionality exists in theory, but no stick seems to support it?
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# ¿ May 9, 2019 09:53 |
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Statutory Ape posted:would this impact 2.4ghz transceivers etc? As an aside, 2.4 GHz transceivers are already severely impacted by USB 3.0 interference - that's why a short 2.0 extender cable often increases reception by quite a bit.
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# ¿ May 11, 2019 19:57 |
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Flipperwaldt posted:Non-Bluetooth wireless headphones still exist as a niche for this reason. E: ie. for use with tv I'd say they're way more than a niche when it comes to PC usage - Bluetooth has terrible voice quality, in addition to all the latency problems.
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# ¿ May 12, 2019 19:43 |
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Whether you can use your own router for internet access mostly depends on the technology (always possible with DSL) or whether your country has a law that forces ISPs to allow the end-user to use their own router. I only know of Italy and Germany having such laws, don't know about Norway. It's probably coming EU-wide relatively soon, but that won't help you, either.
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# ¿ May 16, 2019 19:55 |
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Every ISP should be forced by law to allow the user to use their own equipment. They can then lock down their trash lowest-bidder hardware for the common person as much as they want.
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# ¿ May 22, 2019 22:14 |
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Considering Uverse is VDSL or ADSL2+ mostly, enabling customers to use their own modems would be way easier than with DOCSIS (cable).
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# ¿ May 22, 2019 23:49 |
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other people posted:Sorry for being dumb but I also need to know the specification of the physical plug, too. Right? I was able to find this one, obviously can't vouch for its quality https://www.amazon.de/MyVolts-EU-Ne...way&sr=8-1&th=1
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# ¿ May 25, 2019 17:37 |
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Another option would be to simply buy a new drive enclosure, they're pretty cheap.
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# ¿ May 26, 2019 10:31 |
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# ¿ Apr 26, 2024 08:41 |
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Uninstall the Bluetooth and install the current Intel drivers https://downloadcenter.intel.com/download/28805/Intel-Wireless-Bluetooth-for-Windows-10?product=59485
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# ¿ May 27, 2019 17:13 |