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One of the WD 1TB Blue HDDs in my DrivePool failed the WD Lifeguard Extended Test due to too many bad sectors. It's still in warranty, so I generated an RMA on WD's site and am just waiting for the pre-mailer label. Prior to shipping the hosed HDD, should I zero it out? I ordered a new 5TB to add to my DrivePool to see if I can hopefully remove the affected 1TB from the pool while also salvaging the files from it. Fingers crossed! [edit] Another question. Using Macrium Reflect, can I make an image of the hard drive even if it has bad sectors? teagone fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Jul 7, 2015 |
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Jul 6, 2015 03:06
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Alereon posted:As usual, I will note that Comcast and other ISPs are beginning their rollouts of DOCSIS 3.1 service, and the modems you buy now will be DOCSIS 3.0. There will be a transitional period while older modems still work, but if you're on a higher speed tier you will be among the first users switched to DOCSIS 3.1. Also I've found ISPs will try to blame your modem for issues if you own it, but getting better support and less pushback probably isn't worth the monthly fee. The monthly fee is $10 for me. They also charge me another $5 for like service support or some poo poo so that they won't charge me if I call them. Fuckin' Comcast. I really should buy my own modem.
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Jul 9, 2015 23:21
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Related to storage, how come in my Plex server sometimes a 3 or 4GB file transfer between two SATA mechanical hard drives is sustained at like 120-150MB/s and then other times, a transfer of another 3/4GB file between the two same drives drops down to like 30-50MB/s? Is that just like a variable dependent on how fast the platters are rotating or whatever?
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Jul 12, 2015 03:35
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Thanks to Tapedump I decided to open up CDI on my Plex server since its been a while, and lo and behold I got a caution warning on my Windows drive. Should I be worried? Is there anything I can do to remedy that?
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Jul 15, 2015 11:31
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Rexxed posted:I'd be a little concerned. Is the drive having issues? Also 0x45 g-sensor warnings, stop kicking it while it's running! These things may be related but it could also be having age related issues. Personally I'd RMA it or buy a new disk asap, but it may yet continue to live for a while. Weird... regarding the g-sensor thing, I've never physically abused the PC or hard drive to my my knowledge haha. And yeah, the drive/PC is relatively old, as you can tell by the power on hours. I was planning on replacing the drive soon anyways. It's well out of warranty, so I'm hoping a 1TB blue goes on sale during that Amazon Prime Day thing. As for any issues with the drive, I have been noticing dips in transfer speeds between it and a brand new 5TB HDD I dropped in the server last week—it's an issue I had brought up just a few posts above in this thread. Initial transfers between the drive and the new 5TB drive were sustained at around 120MB/s (maxing out at 150MB/s or so), but now they've dropped down to about 20-30MB/s. Sometimes it goes back up to the ~100MB/s range, but it's inconsistent. Could that be a sign of it possibly dying soon? teagone fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Jul 15, 2015 |
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Jul 15, 2015 12:25
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Alereon posted:Your drive is starting to fail, but my biggest concern is the "UDMA CRC Error" count, which indicates data corruption between the drive and system. This is usually caused by a bad or loose SATA cable, or RAM errors. It could also be caused by a failing drive, so see if you get those errors with a new drive, cable, and after running a memory diagnostic. Cool, will do. Thanks for the heads up 
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Jul 15, 2015 21:30
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So here's an odd thing that happened. I was going to RMA one of my 1TB Blues because I had recently run an extended test on it using WD Lifeguard and it failed due to too many bad sectors (I ran the diagnostics because the drive periodically would disappear from explorer and file transfers would fail on it). Prior to wiping the drive, I ran chkdsk /r on it and then pulled anything important off. Once I transferred all the data from it, I formatted the drive again, and for shits decided to run another Lifeguard extended test. This time it passed. What the hell? Did chkdsk /r fix the disk? Bringing up the drive in CDI shows no issues or anything (at least to my knowledge). [edit] Here's the CD info of the WD Blue that originally failed the Lifeguard extended test like 20 minutes in...  Ran the Lifeguard extended test again overnight, went the full 6-7 hours, and it passed. Strange. Is there anything worrisome in the CDI screenshot? Should I still RMA it, or is the drive fine now? teagone fucked around with this message at 12:13 on Jul 16, 2015 |
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Jul 16, 2015 11:45
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Alereon posted:CHKDSK /R will either kill a drive outright or temporarily hide the signs of its failure, which is what happened in this case. You definitely still need to RMA the failing drive because the problems are just going to come back worse. Good to know, thanks! Weird thing is, before I ran CHKDSK /R I wasn't able to pull anything off the drive; file transfers would start, hover around 30-50MB/s, and then consistently drop to 0MB/s at around 30% in and just freeze there, not starting up again. After I ran CHKDSK /R I was able to pull everything off just fine, about 700GB of data, at a sustained 115-120MB/s transfer rate. I guess I should note that the reason I ran CHKDSK /R was because it was a step in a Macrium Reflect tutorial I read regarding creating an image of a hard drive with bad sectors (which I successfully did as well), heh. [edit] Here was the tutorial http://kb.macrium.com/KnowledgebaseArticle50121.aspx teagone fucked around with this message at 12:49 on Jul 16, 2015 |
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Jul 16, 2015 12:47
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Earl of Lavender posted:I'd imagine the low speed before running 'chkdsk /r' would be due to Windows running into the bad sectors as it was copying (and would probably also explain the transfer stopping, as it ground to a halt trying to read faulty sectors.) After running chkdsk, all references to bad sectors in the filesystem would have been altered to point to clean ones. Presumably, this will mean that some of the files you copied off have been silently damaged: This is a dumb question, but can damaged files cause a drive to fail?
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Jul 16, 2015 22:00
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Prorat posted:I have a i7-4790k with a Hyper 212 that I don't overclock, when I run games at "full blast" the temps get into the high 70s but never to 80. Is this too hot, especially on a almost daily basis for the next 5 years? Why did you get an unlocked CPU if you're not going to overclock it?
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Aug 9, 2015 03:33
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Tapedump posted:A desire to call other people on supposed "mistakes." No. I don't OC or use third-party coolers, so I don't buy "k" or unlocked processors to save money. Sir Unimaginative posted:It turbos to 4.4 GHz out of box. Sir Unimaginative posted:Eh, maybe. Well, this. I thought the whole point of getting a "k" model CPU was to overclock it, otherwise why spend the extra money?
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Aug 9, 2015 16:08
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HalloKitty posted:This isn't the Sandy Bridge or Ivy Bridge era; where K meant unlocked and nothing else, from Haswell onwards, the i7-K versions have higher base and boost clocks, making them a decent choice even if you have 0 interest in overclocking. Ahh, I did not know this. Thanks for the clarification!
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Aug 9, 2015 19:21
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Away all Goats posted:Is there some reason my computer would all of a sudden be unable to supply enough power to a flash drive? Using the same USB port I've used before it no longer detects the flash drive. The drive itself has a little light that does not light up which leads me to believe its not getting enough power. Have you tried the flash drive on other computers or other ports? Maybe the flash drive is making GBS threads itself.
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Aug 17, 2015 02:51
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skooma512 posted:My home router is dead. What should I replace it with? Which brand is the least lovely? What was your last router? I've had a TP-Link N600 (http://www.amazon.com/TP-LINK-TL-WDR3600-Wireless-Gigabit-300Mbps/dp/B008RV51EE) for about 2 years now? And it's been solid with Gargoyle installed.
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Aug 26, 2015 03:20
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Melmac posted:Is there any way to reboot a $50 TrendNet or Asus switch without having to physically unplug it? I had to put mine in an inconvenient location and every time I lose power half my network is down because the switch has to be rebooted. With my router I just log into its interface and click reboot. Is there something similar for cheap switches? That's weird, I have two TrendNet gigabit switches in my network and in the rare occasion I lose power, I never have to do anything with them; I just need to reboot my router.
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Aug 27, 2015 13:14
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My brother is giving me his PC since he just ordered a maxed out Dell XPS 15 and is going to just use that as his main computer now. Once he gives me his, I plan on giving mine to my dad. My question is can I just move around the SSDs with Windows 10 installations into their new respective computers? The scenario would be I take out the SSD in my current PC and drop it into the PC my brother is giving me (he would keep his SSD and throw it in an external enclosure). Then I would take the SSD from my dad's current PC and put in the PC I'm giving him. All SSDs have Windows 10 already installed. Would that work? Or would I have to clean install windows when moving the SSDs around?
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Nov 9, 2015 01:32
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Nintendo Kid posted:Your worst case scenario is to have to boot into safe mode to fix some drivers, probably with a Windows 10 USB drive on hand in case the drivers need to be taken off of there. Usually, it won't even need anything more than just starting it up, so long as you aren't moving between Intel and AMD Ok cool, good to know. All PCs have intel CPUs, though one PC has an AMD card, others have nvidia. I'll just be sure to uninstall video drivers before dropping in the SSDs I guess. Thanks!
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Nov 10, 2015 01:20
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Frog Act posted:So my friend gave me a Thermaltake Black Widow 850w power supply. I've never installed a power supply before, but I'm going to stick this one in my computer along with the card I plan on ordering, and I was wondering if anyone knew whether it would probably fit in my Dell XPS 8700 premade case. I'm obviously gonna measure and stuff before I start unplugging things, I'm just curious. What video card are you planning on getting? If it's a GTX 970, I run mine on an Antec VP-450 swimmingly, paired with a Core i3-4330. A VP-450 can be had for like $30 after rebate or coupons, and its normal price is around $40 or so. It's likely the best PSU you can get at/or under the $40 price point imo, if you're looking to save some money. I've been using it in every system build I've done for myself, friends, and family since 2012—7 in builds in total—and each PC has been running since without issue.
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Dec 7, 2015 09:02
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BurritoJustice posted:The VP-450 is a piece of poo poo that nobody should buy, you can get an EVGA 500B for the same price that is better in every way. Not a piece of poo poo, it's actually pretty efficient and a great budget PSU option, despite lacking the PFC circuit required to obtain an 80+ bronze rating: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/antec-vp450-power-supply-review Anecdotal, but I've had 2 Rosewill PSUs and 2 EVGA power supplies that were recommended in the parts picking megathread crap out on me in the last few years in builds I've put together. I ended up just swapping them out for VP450s in the end and they've been running fine ever since. [edit] Frog Act posted:I'm planning on picking up an MSI GTX 960 2GB, probably this one: The GTX 9xx series of GPUs are really power efficient. I think you might be fine with the stock PSU to be honest, depending on its official detailed specs. Someone more knowledgeable than me would be able to give you a better answer though, but looking at the load power consumption benchmarks of the GTX 960 on Anandtech, the total system power draw with a GTX 960 caps out at 278W while running Furmark http://www.anandtech.com/bench/product/1596 teagone fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Dec 8, 2015 |
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Dec 8, 2015 01:47
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Alereon posted:That's the very definition of a cheap lovely power supply, note the low quality capacitors with a low temperature rating, indicating a short lifespan. Rather than get excited about how cheap it is and that it is not quite as lovely as other power supplies in its price class, just buy something decent. [edit] Reading that VP450 review again, I guess the VP450 could have easily been labeled an 80+ PSU based on their results. Just how important is a PFC circuit?  I have 3 systems in my house that have been using the VP450 and 1 running a 380W Earthwatts PSU since 2012 and all are still running fine, one of the PCs with a VP450 (my Plex/storage server) has even maintained a 24/7 uptime roughly for that long. Speaking of which, since all my PSUs are closing in at around ~3-4 years old, should I consider swapping them out now?
teagone fucked around with this message at 02:43 on Dec 8, 2015 |
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Dec 8, 2015 02:31
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Frog Act posted:Thanks man! To be honest, I might just turn off my DVD drive, since I've never used it, and keep using my stock PSU. Does that sound like a legitimate thing to you guys? Doing a quick search, I found a thread on Dell's support forums where users have reported success in dropping a GTX 970 in the XPS 8700 with a stock 460W PSU and it working just fine. http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/desktop/f/3515/p/19611037/20708941#20708941 Although they apparently had to apply a BIOS update in order to get the GPU working if the BIOS wasn't a certain revision. Not sure if that would also apply to a GTX 960 or not. Here was the original thread I found that directed me to the other thread with the user reports: http://en.community.dell.com/support-forums/desktop/f/3515/t/19616805 teagone fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Dec 8, 2015 |
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Dec 8, 2015 02:49
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Alereon posted:Power Factor Correction is for the health of the power grid and environment, it doesn't really benefit you that much. Without PFC the power supply is effectively drawing higher current at lower voltage, this costs the same to you* but places more load on the power transmission system, lowering efficiency. A single 450W power supply isn't really noticeable, but the effect of a large number of low power factor devices is very large when taken together, which is why energy efficiency standards require Active PFC and we're all supposed to be doing our part by not putting obsolete power supplies into service. You've been lucky with your power supplies and there isn't really any reason to swap them if you aren't having issues, but if you had spent just a little bit more on properly-sized decent quality models this wouldn't even be something you had to worry about. This was an interesting read, thanks. And yeah, I suppose I should consider my case with Antec PSUs an outlier. I've just had bad luck with other PSUs like the couple of Rosewill and EVGA ones. The longest running PSU I had was an Antec Neo HE 430W PSU that came with a P150 case that I had used in my first dual-core PC build circa 2005(6?). That PSU lasted roughly 8 years before I decided to swap it out for a VP450 when I upgraded the rest of the internals.
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Dec 8, 2015 04:47
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bitcoin savant posted:You're lucky then. Antec NEO units had appalling ripple, so if you had any cards or drives die suddenly, now you know why. I don't think they were ever as bad as the Bestec OEM units that were nearly guaranteed to kill boards with A/C noise at least. The component gods are kind to me apparently, haha. The PC I built with the Antec Neo HE PSU had the same components (Manchester Athlon 64 X2 3800+, 2GB RAM, 3x200GB HDDs, GeForce 6800GS) for the better part of like 6 years before I started gutting it out and upgrading stuff. None of the original components died in the PC for the duration of its operation.
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Dec 9, 2015 02:45
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Ema Nymton posted:My PC build runs really well, but Windows Vista support ends in 2017. So I'll get a new Windows this year, Before installing it I want to do any major hardware upgrades I might want in the future before that to ensure the install is fresh. Switch to intel if you plan on making any kind of hardware upgrade. You're basically at the end of the line with AMD.
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Jan 28, 2016 23:40
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I have 2 very old IDE/PATA hard drives in my Plex server and one of them just popped up some errors in CDI: Would now be a good time to remove it from my drive pool? Or is it still viable as a Plex Media Server storage source? I guess I should remove both IDE drives eventually... lmao.
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Feb 10, 2016 18:07
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Alereon posted:It's dying, remove it ASAP. Figured as much. Time to finally retire my last 2 PATA drives for good. 
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Feb 10, 2016 18:11
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My brother's Dell XPS 15 9550 (Core i7-6700, GTX960M) seems to get really hot when he plays Street Fighter V. The CPU temp managed to get all the way up to 90C+ and I've seen the CPU throttle down to 800MHz a few times, causing SFV to run really slow (SFV does that thing if the machine isn't powerful enough, it runs the game in like slow motion instead of it stuttering or running jerky). I've remedied the issue temporarily by telling him to point a fan at his laptop, and it worked as he was able to play fairly long sessions doing that, but both he and I agreed that's a pretty ghetto solution lol. Is it normal for the i7-6700 to get that hot when gaming? Should he be concerned? It idles at roughly 40C and performance is solid for doing regular PC tasks. It's a fairly new model, so I haven't really found any evidence showing that the laptop runs overly hot when gaming. He also has two monitors connected to it while he has it hooked up to play games; one connected via the HDMI port and another via the USB-C Thunderbolt 3 port (using a USB-C to HDMI dongle). Not sure if that makes a difference or not. teagone fucked around with this message at 12:08 on Mar 3, 2016 |
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Mar 3, 2016 12:05
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schizopol posted:is hyperthreading on? I would assume so. My brother is not one to tinker with the settings at all, so I'd wager that HT is on by default. Alereon posted:Throttling under load is expected for the Dell XPS 15 9550, it's rare to find a gaming laptop that can actually dissipate the heat generated during gaming. You'll likely be able to significantly improve things by getting a cooling stand so that the intake fans on the underside of the laptop have more room to suck air through. Do make sure the latest BIOS is installed and see if there are any fan control options anywhere. Thanks for that link. Not sure why I couldn't find that article haha. Next time he comes over or if I stop by his place, I'll be sure to poke around the BIOS. What specific options should I be looking for in there regarding fan control? Geoj posted:Laptops generally have poo poo cooling solutions (there's only so much you can do when you're limited by a 1" or slimmer chassis) so he's going to have to compromise somewhere. He might try a cooling pad (not suggesting that model in particular, just using it as an example) or sometimes just elevating the back of the laptop so there's more than an eighth of an inch or less between the fan inlet and the desk can make a big difference. That cooling pad looks decent. Any other recommendations? I figure the $15 one that came up on Amazon on a quick search is likely poo poo. Either way, I've just texted him that he should get a cooling pad/stand, and I'll let him know which one. Thanks for the help! 
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Mar 4, 2016 04:09
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I'm looking to upgrade my brother's Plex server with more RAM. It's a Dell PowerEdge T20 (Pentium G3220, C226 based mainboard) and it currently has a single ECC 4GB RAM module. Instead of buying another ECC module to pair it up, can I swap out the current RAM and replace it with a regular non-ECC kit of 2x4GB DDR3 RAM? Or does the C226 mainboard have to use ECC RAM?
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Mar 23, 2016 01:27
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The two 4TB Toshiba X300 hard drives in my brother's Plex server are running hotter than I'd like. They're currently idling around 45-50C and I've seen them get up to 53C (according to Toshiba's spec sheet, their operating temp is 5-55C). Problem is his server is a Dell PowerEdge T20 and it doesn't look like the case has a mount for a front intake fan. The only additional cooling the T20 has is a rear 92mm exhaust. Here's what it looks like on the inside: The two hard drives are on the bottom. Any suggestions on how to cool them? Hoping there's a solution other than me migrating all the innards into a new case (I believe the mainboard is micro-ATX).
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May 14, 2016 05:54
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tuyop posted:My HTPC has become an unexpected plex server for friends with Xbox ones and tablets and the CPU (AMD 5350) is barely up to the task of transcoding. It has one low-profile PCI-E slot and I'd also like a graphics card for couch PC gaming (though this isn't a huge deal because I can also use steam streaming from my beefier desktop). Do graphics cards play a role in transcoding or is there another special piece of hardware I can use? At the moment, Plex doesn't utilize GPUs (or onboard iGPUs/quick sync) for transcoding streams. It's dependent entirely on your CPU. More info here: https://support.plex.tv/hc/en-us/articles/201774043-What-kind-of-CPU-do-I-need-for-my-Server-
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Jul 28, 2016 15:01
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Is it possible to switch the monitor ID number without having to swap ports on my videocard? I have 3 displays hooked up to my PC: My main monitor (DVI), secondary monitor (DP), and an HDTV (HDMI). In the nvidia CP, my main/DVI monitor is listed as Monitor 3; is there anyway to make it Monitor 1? Monitor 1 is my secondary monitor on DP. Note: I can't put my DVI monitor on DP because my DP monitor only has DP and VGA connectors.
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Jul 29, 2016 14:55
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Rexxed posted:I don't think you can change the numbering but it shouldn't matter because you can specify which is your primary display. I only have two monitors hooked up but my primary monitor is number 2 on the DVI port and secondary is 1 on the HDMI port. Is there any software that's misbehaving despite your selection of a primary monitor? Steam in-home streaming. Whenever I have my HTPC try to stream from my gaming PC (which has the 3 displays connected to it), it ends up picking the DP monitor which I have in vertical orientation and it screws with the game resolution.
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Jul 31, 2016 13:10
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Asked this in the PC building thread, no response yet: I'm pulling the trigger on a Plex server build I'm putting together for a family friend soon. Any reason I should be wary about purchasing two of these 3TB Toshiba P300 HDDs for his bulk storage needs? http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16822149633&ignorebbr=1
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Nov 23, 2016 03:18
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Should be fine, but why not spring for a NAS drive? If there is a lot of usage on the server it may be worth it. Are you putting them in RAID1? Not gonna RAID them, just going to pool them together using Stablebit DrivePool. Reason I'm not jumping on WD Reds is he has a pretty strict budget, heh. $140 for two 3TB drives seems like a really good deal.
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Nov 23, 2016 22:53
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I ordered these molex to SATA adapters from Amazon to add more HDDs to my Plex server: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003M75D7I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 But just noticed the reviews of them catching fire. Do I uhh, have to be worried about that? Should I get Monoprice branded ones instead? I'm also reading that those and most molex to SATA adapters don't have the orange 3.3 VDC cable that some SATA devices require. How do I know if my hard drives need that orange 3.3 VDC?
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Dec 7, 2016 09:06
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Actuarial Fables posted:Check out the manufacturer's product page for the drive(s), it should list the power needs. If you can't find it on the page, look for a specification/data sheet PDF. HalloKitty posted:No drives use 3.3v (actually, maybe some 1.8"), but you should be worried, there's a mounting pile of evidence that the fully moulded type of SATA connector from cheap sources (poor quality control, lack of gold plating] are likely a hazard waiting to occur, years down the line. Thanks so much for this. Already cancelled that order and have a refund waiting. Whew. [edit] Ended up ordering this adapter instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00N7OJ3AY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Reviews on Newegg and Amazon report no fires with this one 
teagone fucked around with this message at 17:01 on Dec 7, 2016 |
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Dec 7, 2016 14:30
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Yvershek posted:Thanks for doing the work for me!!! Been meaning to replace the ones I have. Sure thing! Can confirm, I received the adapter today (  Amazon same-day delivery), and it's like the ones recommended in the YouTube video posted on this page. The cables aren't molded directly into the SATA connector; they have proper spacing in between one another and have that protective collar around them in the area where the cables meet with the connector.[edit] This one looks good too: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-10...e+molex+to+sata I would have gotten that one, but it wasn't eligible for free same-day delivery
teagone fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Dec 8, 2016 |
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Dec 8, 2016 03:03
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Paul MaudDib posted:Yeah, I mean just FYI the whole paid review thing is still around, it's just underground now and they no longer print "HELLO I TOOK MONEY FOR THIS PRODUCT" on the review. That product has 5 reviews that look exactly like I would expect paid reviews to look. I'm aware of paid reviews the adapter I bought seems to have passed reviewmeta http://reviewmeta.com/amazon/B00N7OJ3AY
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Dec 8, 2016 06:19
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Now that I've got my molex to SATA adapter issue sorted out, I've another expandability question about my Plex server. My mainboard has 5x SATA slots, all of which are in use at the moment. It's an older mainboard — an MSI 880GM-E43 — so they're only SATA II connectors. I want to add more drives eventually, and want to make use of the 3 empty 5.25" bays using this thing: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816132037&cm_re=5.25_3.5_cage-_-16-132-037-_-Product Will I notice any difference in speed if I get a SATA II or SATA III controller PCIe card? If so, what should I be looking for in a PCIe SATA controller? I don't really need anything fancy, but as with the SATA adapter, it looks like there are a bunch of cheapo brands out there that's making the decision process kind of overwhelming. Also, is there a significant gap in speed between native SATA connectors and those on a controller card connected to a PCIe slot?
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Dec 9, 2016 00:19
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