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Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
That's just sweet. After a BIOS update, video doesn't initialize anymore, except the first boot after clearing CMOS. And whenever the video driver in Windows starts the device. gently caress you, Asrock.

--edit: "Above 4G decoding" doesn't seem to like the BIOS very much at all. Jesus.

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 01:50 on Nov 23, 2016

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Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Is clearing the CMOS supposed to mess with the power settings in Windows? I did a bunch of shenanigans with the BIOS yesterday, and this morning I found the computer in sleep mode. Turns out it activated itself again for some reason.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Depending how things are done on the mainboard (assuming you don't have a HEDT system), there's a worst case where the card would be funneled over the chipset, which usually only hooks up at PCIe 3.0 x4 to the CPU and shares it with other devices. You definitely don't want that.

Hold The Ashes posted:

Does this mean it's unable to use the Kraken?
The connectors are labelled for convenience. How you hook them up doesn't matter. I have the fans of my water cooling on Chassis 2 and the water pump on Chassis 1, because it was convenient. You can still configure the temperature source and fan curves per port.

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Sep 29, 2018

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Yeah. Plug it into some place, and then configure the fan header in the BIOS or with the supplied software. Unless it's different with AIOs, you want the fastest static pump speed that doesn't bother you noise wise.

The labels just match what the mainboard is preconfigured for. You can change everything, that includes putting your pump on the CPU fan header.

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Sep 29, 2018

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
They were probably talking about liquid metal, which messes with other metals, in particular aluminium. If things are nickel plated, things are usually fine.

Ceramic is also fine. Best performing paste seems to be ThermalGrizzly Kryonaut, but it's also more expensive than others.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
My Cyberpower unit with 1500VA claims up to 40-45 mins of runtime when everything's idle. That's a Threadripper-based higher end system with plenty of fans, two 1440p G-Sync displays, a DSL modem and some 60W-like LED bulb, all putting around 150-160W on the UPS.

The interesting with with Cyberpower is that they output close to an actual sine wave, for cheap. APCs in the same price range output the fumbled up square wave, which might not be desirable depending on the PSU in your server (some PSUs can't deal with that waveform under some load).

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
My friend has a laptop that can surf the web just fine, ping and contact devices like smartphones on the W-Lan, but the two Raspberry Pi devices on it, simply can't be reached (one runs OctoPi for the 3D printer, the other runs some home automation software, both have webservers on port 80). They work fine with an older laptop he has and with any smartphones we tried. There's no third party AV with network filtering (poo poo like Symantec 360), nor any other applications that mess with network traffic. Disabling the firewall doesn't do anything either. Any idea what the hell is going on?

It's an Intel Wireless AC 9560 in the offending laptop. It's probably some really stupid setting, but I don't know which one. Both the old and the new laptop run the same current build of Windows 10.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Good question. I can't recall. Does that make a difference? I think the OctoPi one was listed in the Ethernet device list of the router. The other one not sure. Probably Wifi, because the last time I had to restore that thing (terrible home automation software killing SD cards), he put it in a corner somewhere and left it running.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Friend wrote me this morning, when he fired up the laptop, at least the OctoPi was reachable. He watched the webcam stream of the printer for a while. When he put the device to sleep and woke it back up, connectivity broke again.

As far as the bands go, I split up the 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands into different SSIDs to make everything connect to 2.4GHz. That didn't do anything.

Trying Ethernet on that laptop is probably going to be an issue. It's some super thin one, that just barely has USB ports.

The router's not going to have any MTU setting. It's an ISP supplied one, and it's pretty locked down. Configuring SSIDs, DHCP, port mapping and some simple access controls, that's about it. Forget anything useful diagnostics, there's nothing. You don't even get any information about your DSL connection quality and stats.

--ninja edit: I just got a message that restarting the Pi fixed it temporarily. So it's on that end.

That said, it's just with that laptop. Any other devices on the W-Lan can reach them at any time.

--edit: Oh here's a curve ball I just got told.

He's using a Wifi repeater contraption on the floor the OctoPi runs, that spawns a network with the same SSID, but connects to the router via some powerline adapter from TP Link.

--edit:

At this point I'm suspecting some anti-spoofing action from the router, because some MAC address from one of the Ethernet ports (the TPLink stuff creating a secondary WLan) shows up on the primary WLan and vice versa. I told him to test some poo poo regarding that (moving other devices back and forth).

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 18:46 on Dec 22, 2019

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
So I hear a CRYPTO_LIBRARY_INTERNAL_ERROR bugcheck in Windows isn't optimal, right? Any other way to diagnose what happened other than assuming my CPU is failing?

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
Someone tried to tell me that pushing the power button for 15 seconds ought to clear the CMOS.

That even true? Because that'd be a helpful tip for when dealing with cheap as poo poo boards. But the Internet doesn't know about it, and the only explanation why it should work is because that guy has a quasi dead CMOS battery.

--edit:
Nevermind, this wisdom just came, so I guess I'm to ignore any other claims.

Combat Pretzel fucked around with this message at 11:23 on May 29, 2021

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!

VelociBacon posted:

If you unplug your pc/turn off your PSU and hold the power button I think it actually can do some kind of BIOS reset. Not sure how long! Most decent mobos now have pins that you can bridge to do the same thing IIRC.
The pins have been there since the dawn of time, AFAIK. At some point better mainboards introduced an easy to press button either on the board or on the IO backplate. This power button thing is news to me. The only references I can find to that is a suggestion to do that to force discharge some caps, after yanking the battery, in case you're going that far. Thus the question.

Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
I just noticed that my PSU is a couple of days shy of 7 years old. What's the typical lifetime of these things? It's a Corsair AX860i, and it's been running pretty much 24/7.

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Combat Pretzel
Jun 23, 2004

No, seriously... what kurds?!
I'm looking at some DDR5 ECC DIMMs, that I'm gonna overclock because the RAM dies are the same as the XXXXTREME modules. However, being server-type branded RAM, it obviously doesn't come with heatsinks. Is there even a point to these, even if you're going over the specced 1.1V? Should I put some aftermarket ones on them, or is the thermal pad interface making things worse?

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