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HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


cisco privilege posted:

What power supply was it that melted on you?

I would also be interested in this, but let's be honest, it's probably some generic fire hazard; and we're just waiting to wheel out the line about not skimping on PSUs. Be interesting anyway, as an anecdote, or cautionary tale.

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HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


everythingWasBees posted:

Can I use Silverstone cables with a Seasonic PSU?

Do not even think of using modular cables other than the ones that come with the PSU, unless you've meticulously studied the pinouts closely. But if you had, you wouldn't be asking this question.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 12:58 on Sep 22, 2014

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Danger Man posted:

I have an XFX Radeon HD 5850 1GB GDDR5 bought in 2010. Anyone know how mann displayet I can use with it? It has two DVI ports and one HDMI. Does that mean I can use three displays at a time?

Yes, you can use 3, but only if one of those is DisplayPort (I assume it also has DisplayPort).

DVI/HDMI, you can only choose two of those 3.

If you don't have any screens with DisplayPort, and you still want to run three monitors, get yourself a DisplayPort to DVI adapter.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Lee Harvey Oswald posted:

I'm gonna get 1 gig Internet at my new apartment. What are the best wireless routers in the ~$100 range to get the most out of it?

I doubt even the best running well would be as good as a cable.

But as for the best, you'd be looking at something with 802.11AC, and your access point and device would need 5GHz AC. I'd be interested to see what people come up with, because I can't see a <$100 AP being >1Gbit/s, but I could no doubt be extremely out of the loop.

I often hear of ASUS routers and access points being spoken of highly for the consumer sector (although I'd probably buy a Ubiquiti AP for my house).

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 14:54 on Nov 26, 2014

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Josh Lyman posted:

Is x264 encoding supposed to take forever? This is my first go, encoding the Master and Commander bluray using Handbrake on my 3570K overclocked to 4.2GHz. I'm only averaging 2.0 fps on CRF 18 and that seems crazy slow. I used the "Placebo" preset but assumed the crf would scale things back. I didn't set any flags manually or do anything that seems crazy. Audio is being passed through (DTS-MA and AC3) as well as a couple subtitles. Total time is looking to be 28 hours.

level=4.1:ref=7:bframes=16:b-adapt=2:direct=auto:deblock=-1,-1:analyse=all:me=tesa:merange=24:subme=11:trellis=2:fast-pskip=0:psy-rd=1.00,0.15:vbv-bufsize=78125:vbv-maxrate=62500:rc-lookahead=60

Don't use placebo, you're just wasting time; there's a reason it has this name. Just use it on a faster setting, slow or medium. It doesn't affect quality since you're supplying a quality target anyway, it'll only affect overall bitrate. Slower settings will achieve a marginally lower bitrate for the same quality target. But you end up wasting a lot of time to save a tiny amount of hard drive space.

Also, a CRF of 18 is going to give you a pretty huge file, and honestly, if you're going to make an enormous file with DTS-MA audio, why not just keep the original video stream anyway?

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 11:09 on Jan 10, 2015

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Sypher posted:

I think i might have fried my GPU.

My old setup was:
MSI Z77A Mobo
i5 3750k
GeForce 660
8GB DDR 3 Ram 1333
1TB HD

I went out and upgraded:

MSI z97 Gaming 5 Mobo
i7 4790k
250gb Samsung 850 SSD

Why did you "upgrade" from a 3570K and Z77? You could have had a new graphics card by now instead with a bigger improvement...

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Illegal Carrot posted:

So the other day I decided to do the extremely smart thing of spilling water all over my tower, and I think some got on my GPU. Right now I have the thing unseated and it's been sitting in front of a fan for about 48 hours now, but I'm wondering how long I should leave it to dry before plugging it back in, and what else I can do to prevent this thing from sparking up s soon as I turn it on.

I know it's not popular to tell people exactly what cases to get, but this is why I'll never have a case with a top exhaust or any top open vents. I rarely ever spill anything (I used my case as a place to rest my beer on for a couple of years), but it just seems like an absolutely pointless risk. That includes all of those rotated Silverstone cases. When I had an Antec P182, that had an exhaust cowl, but I even gaffer taped over the top of that so it wasn't exposed.

As for actual advice, it's hard to say if everything is going to be totally dry, but definitely leaving things in front of a large fan for some time is a decent idea. The longer you can leave it, the better, of course. Hey, if there's no water left, there's not much else that seems to be possible. Good luck.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 09:56 on Jan 28, 2015

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


cisco privilege posted:

SD cards have limited numbers of writes, and the flash memory used is generally not to the same quality as say a SSD.

While bittorrent does tons of small writes which could hammer the card and thus it's probably more than 30GB writes, it's more likely the heat and flash quality that killed it. Phones and SD cards really aren't designed for using for torrenting, so don't do that unless you want to kill more cards. Tether your phone instead if it's an unlimited data connection or whatever that you're using, and hope that your carrier doesn't drop you. Alternatively don't use your phone for torrenting duh.

But most if not all torrent clients will pre-allocate the files, then when downloading, cache the chunks, then write them, they don't generally write every single bit to disk as it is received. There's no way 30GB of writes should kill the card. It is not a good use for an SD card, that said.

To Surgeon General: You only had the card for a month, though, just get it replaced under warranty.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


KKKLIP ART posted:

A SeaSonic G Series 550-Watt SSR-550RM that was picked from the SA parts thread, purchased in 2013. The only other clue is that it seems like when it hangs on boot, I get nothing. No lights on mouse or keyboard either, so I am sort of ruling out the GPU. I am going to try a format and fresh install and seeing how that goes. Maybe it was something funky with the "refresh" that 8.1 did.

That's a good PSU, so I wouldn't be so suspicious of that just yet. I would definitely pull out the graphics card and just use the onboard Intel graphics for a while, to see if anything similar happens again. That would be the best way to either point the finger at or away from the GPU.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Trump posted:

Would the Seagate Archive HDD 8 TB be suitable for storing media and torrenting from? It seems to be the best bang for the buck storage-wise.

Long term media storage (writing once, reading many)? That's basically the design case. Torrenting, lots of little writes? No.

Turns out my guess it would be hell in a RAID array was completely correct.

Storage Review posted:

The HGST He8 HDDs completed its rebuild in 19 hours and 46 minutes. The Seagate Archive HDDs completed their rebuild in 57 hours and 13 minutes.

Edit: haha, some of the graphs in that review are loving hilarious, and show exactly why these drives are not for general use:

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Jul 2, 2015

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


OtherworldlyInvader posted:

This seems like the most appropriate place to ask: can some one tell me what the deal is with SCSI hard drives?

I'm reading through the 2012 (current) version of Michael Meyer's A+ Certification study guide, and it says:


It was my understanding that SCSI has been obsolete for like 15 years. Some light googling just seemed to confirm this. Looking at HDDs on Newegg I see a category for "SCSI Ultra", but some more googling doesn't seem to bring up anything relevant to current standards, and all these drives seem to be under 300 GBs which leaves me assuming they're all for supporting legacy equipment. Am I entirely missing something? Is this book just flat out wrong?

SCSI is still around in the form of the protocol itself, but drives now physically use a larger SATA connector. Serial-attached SCSI is probably what you'd now want to read about.

It very much is in existence in servers.

Edit: OK, so you know about SAS already, I've mainly heard them referred to as SAS drives, to be honest, and not the full name. But I suppose it's not technically incorrect to call them SCSI drives. More likely that that line in the book just hasn't been revised for a while.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 09:57 on Jul 19, 2015

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


teagone posted:

Why did you get an unlocked CPU if you're not going to overclock it?

It's often recommended, to be fair, because it's basically not worth the hassle when a 4790K tops out at 4.4 turbo from stock. Haswell doesn't have a lot of headroom for the casual user, unlike the Sandy Bridge days. H97 chipset boards saves money over Z97.

teagone posted:

Well, this. I thought the whole point of getting a "k" model CPU was to overclock it, otherwise why spend the extra money?

In short: It's literally faster out of the box than any locked CPU. You do not need to overclock it, but you really should have a proper cooler on it, because the Intel one is inadequate for a 4790K under sustained heavy load.

This isn't the Sandy Bridge or Ivy Bridge era; where K meant unlocked and nothing else, from Haswell onwards, the i7-K versions have higher base and boost clocks, making them a decent choice even if you have 0 interest in overclocking (4790 vs 4790K).

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Aug 9, 2015

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Blarfo posted:

My old laptop doesn't have HDMI out... Is there anything I can do to add HDMI out to it? I wanted to use it to try steam inhome streaming.

Some kind of active VGA to HDMI adapter, maybe.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Nintendo Kid posted:

Format it, then write the drive's entire capacity with garbage data if you're really worried about things and it's too old to support TRIM.

It's not the best idea entirely over the drive without knowing what model it is, though, that'll just reduce the lifespan of every cell. Unless it's some ancient relic, it should have a secure erase function.

IuniusBrutus posted:

What is the best way to wipe an SSD for resale?

So essentially, it depends on the model of the SSD.

Edit: come to think of it, there's a dedicated thread relating to SSDs, so you'll probably get the quickest and most relevant response there

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Sep 17, 2015

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Geemer posted:

What do you think secure erase does?

For some reason I thought it worked in the same way that whole drive encryption does: it throws away the key making the entire drive effectively garbage data. But maybe it doesn't, or maybe most drives don't handle the data in that way.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 19:59 on Sep 17, 2015

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


McGiggins posted:

Hi smart people!

I have a question, but due to the nature I am not sure if it fits here or the other, similar threads listed in the sticky. If I am in the wrong place, please let me know and I will vamoose.

I own a Dell U3014 Monitor (not tv) which I bought second hand and fully functional.

However, it has since broken and I wish to repair it. I have identified the fault with the aid of an engineer friend of mine, which is that a portion of one of the daughter boards inside is no longer conducting power. I have searched to no avail to find a retailer online for Dell monitor boards, and am guessing that is for a reason.

Is there such a source, or am I out of luck, and $1700 for a new one?

Don't mess around with it!

The U3014 is so new that I can't imagine it being out of warranty. They (and I believe all Dell UltraSharps) have 3-year advanced-exchange next business day warranties on them.
Just call Dell and get it exchanged for a new one. If the U3014 is like other UltraSharps, there's a little pull-out tab on the side with the serial number, manufacturing date, revision and so on.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 18:54 on Nov 25, 2015

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


McGiggins posted:

I bought it second hand off of ebay, so I do not think there is any warranty I am eligible for. Ebay warranty is only 6 months I think anyway, and it has been longer than that.

I am capable of replacing the board in question (and my engineer friend most certainly could if I could not), however it is a source for the board that has stumped me.

I assume Dell has the parts on lockdown to prevent exactly this type of repair?

You can instantly check the warranty status one way or another to confirm.

Here's a page from Dell explaining the various warranty possibilities on their monitors. Yours is large and expensive enough to have its own Service Tag, so that often makes things easier.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 11:43 on Nov 26, 2015

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Alereon posted:

Thanks for the correction on the pointer speed setting, but regarding pointer precision since you want mouse acceleration enabled in Windows but NOT in games it makes the most sense to enable it in Windows and disable it in your per-game profile in your mouse settings. I couldn't imagine trying to use Windows without mouse acceleration enabled.

Huh, I always use a mouse in Windows with mouse acceleration disabled. Never have a problem.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Alereon posted:

If you're upgrading your RAM anyway it makes sense to replace your older RAM if your CPU is fast enough to use it. Modern games and HD video playback both depend on having at least DDR3-1600, but you're not going to notice enough of a difference just from increasing memory speeds to make it worth it in nearly any case.

Honestly, changing my RAM speed from 1333 to 1600 at the same timings didn't make a significant difference, although I'm glad I did it anyway. Saying DDR3-1333 isn't good enough for HD video playback is very odd, seeing as 19201080 @ 23.976 isn't a heavy task for even a smartphone these days. There are many Sandy Bridge and Sandy Bridge-E systems on DDR3-1333 that are still good for heavy use.

Lorak posted:

Someone is asking for help with getting a cheap but not bad wand scanner. Was going to suggest the portable Neat scanner, but that doesn't fall into the "cheap" territory, last I checked. Any suggestions?

I haven't got anything useful to add, but nice Missingno. avatar (still remember the day I corrupted my friend's save by finding that bitch).

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 17:32 on Dec 30, 2015

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Crotch Fruit posted:

I really like my vantec 2.5" sata dock. I used to have a 3.5" ide but it was always kinda big and heavy and required a power brick, I simply didn't feel like it was a good option for portable bulk storage. If you just need to read data from old drives without cracking open your case every time I would get a ide/usb dock instead.

In addition, I hoard old hardware and I don't even have any ide drives left. I am impressed you have a living ide drive, I think putting it in an enclosure and submitting it to bumps as your carry it is a sure way to kill the old hard drive.

I have a box full of working 200GB or so working ide drives. I have a 245MB Seagate that still works fine too, so I wouldn't consider it that surprising.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


RescueFreak posted:

Any ideas what to do with an old server?

I picked up a Dell SC1430 that was being "retired" and now have no clue what to do with it. POSTs fine but has no hard drives. It is a dual Xeon E5345 2.3ghz (8 cores) with 16 GB of ram and a PERC 5 raid card. Also has a COA for Server 2008.

Was thinking maybe a NAS but it is pretty loud and worried it would not be power efficient. Because it is so old doubt I could resell or part it out. Might put it back in the trash pile.

People buy stuff worse than that on ebay, you could easily sell it. Not for a huge amount, but you could. But I guess for collection only, if you want to save headaches.

It's the sort of thing you could use to run VMs on for testing, but it's really not suitable for NAS use, as because, as you said, loud and not that efficient.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Alereon posted:

If the power supply doesn't have a 6-pin cable, they make Geforce GTX 950 cards that don't require them. Though, have you tried removing the Matrox card, connecting your monitors to onboard video, and installing the latest Intel HD Graphics drivers? It's far faster and more capable than the Matrox card. Additionally, your system memory should be installed in matched pairs, using three modules like that will severely affect system performance.

I believe that modern Intel systems can be pretty flexible when it comes to running in dual channel. If that setup is 2x 4GiB in one channel, 1x 8 in the other, it should be ok: https://www.intel.com/content/www/u.../000005657.html

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


Alereon posted:

At best that will only be for the first 8GB though. Adobe apps are also very sensitive to memory bandwidth because of the kind of work they do, so that will hurt.

I think that's only for "flex" mode, which is not what I'm referring to.

"Dual-channel (interleaved) mode
This mode offers higher memory throughput and is enabled when the memory capacities of both DIMM channels are equal."

There's 8GiB in one channel, and 8 in the other. The whole lot should be dual channel according to the page. Unless it doesn't apply to the current boards somehow.



vs



I readily admit it's a weird memory configuration, and never one I'd aim for if I was building a machine, but it might be OK.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Apr 17, 2016

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Gavrilo Princip posted:

So I built my current machine a while ago and (stupidly) didn't ask anything in the PC parts picking thread, largely because I didn't know it existed at the time. I'm extremely happy with it at the moment, it runs smoothly and is pretty much a total joy to interact with compared to the 6 year old HP laptop that it replaced, but I picked a couple of parts which seem to be on the goon consensus shitlist (MSI motherboard, CX series PSU).

I'm not so worried about the Motherboard, but I've heard the CX series have some stability issues. I gave myself an extra 50 watts on the recommended wattage given my system's TDP, using a PSU rated for 600 watts instead of 550, but I'm still antsy about PSU things since I'm well aware that they're the one thing you really don't want to have issues with. Trawling the web gives a variety of opinions as to the seriousness of the issue but no solid answers. Are the issues with the CX series bad enough that it's a case of "pull it out now and replace it" or is it just something which is suboptimal but can be lived with?

CX series are unspectacular, and the thread recommends better; but it's probably not any kind of imminent issue. MSI is a brand that's recommended often; for motherboards and graphics cards, so I don't think you've made a mistake there.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Jago posted:

I have a cheesy little logitech c110 webcam and the mic on that works well enough for gaming. Sounds good when I test it and I've gotten no complaints. I'm sure there's better stuff for similar prices at this point, but it works for me!

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Webc...3&keywords=c110

Not this exact webcam, but I do the same thing. Less hassle with wires and so on. Sounds fine.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Haledjian posted:

I just installed a 4790k on a new motherboard.



I don't know why there are 7 temperatures, or why 3 of them are over 100C. Am I about to burn my house down, or is this normal?

Edit: I'm a loving idiot, those are from the motherboard, not the CPU

Motherboards often have a bunch of temperature probes from a generic monitoring chipset that simply aren't connected, so often read nonsense values.
If they basically don't change at all over time, then you know that's what you're looking at.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 18:00 on May 25, 2016

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


FCKGW posted:

If you have faulty hardware you can't reliably say it's not the source of your problem. Replace the RAM and then retest.

This. You can't diagnose a software problem while you knowingly have a dodgy stick of RAM.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Mikojan posted:

Hi,

I own a fractal design nano S case, and I have some questions about the cooling.

The case came standard with a 140mm fan in the front and a 120mm fan in the back.

I'm a bit annoyed with the sound levels it is producing and would like to see if there are steps I can take to reduce it.

My cpu tower has 2 fans on it, with the back fan just 2 cm from the exhaust fan. Would it make sense to remove the back fan from the cpu tower?

I was thinking about adding another 140mm fan in the front and have both fans turn at low RPM. Does this make sense? Or will I just blow so much air in the case that my exhaust fan can't really remove?

Thanks

What motherboard do you have? The fans it includes as far as I can tell are 3-pin, so if they're hooked up to the board (as they should be), you should be able to control them (as long as the header supports voltage control).

Controlling them is definitely the correct solution, not just removing a fan that might be useful under load.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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HMS Boromir posted:

This is pretty good! Thanks.

EDIT: My only complaint is that it puts its own little icon in the systray in addition to the sensor displays. Not a dealbreaker but is there an option I'm missing to remove it?

Speedfan shows only one icon, even if you set that to display a temperature.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


goodness posted:

I don't have a SSD for my 2500k, r290x desktop. Pretty bad?

You should get an ssd.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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McCracAttack posted:

Thanks for the reply. BIOS is up to date and I tried making a bootable Memtest86+ USB stick but got nowhere so I'll come back to that when I've got a bit more patience.

Windows has a built in memory test. "windows memory diagnostics" in the start menu

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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BreakAtmo posted:

Thanks. I've been looking at the Kickstarter for the Superbook (the $99 laptop shell that you plug your phone into to use) and it got me wondering about the potential for a company to take the shells of their most high-end laptops and do the same thing - or sell the shells to the Superbook company to use for a premium model. The processing power would be lesser and the OS would be different, but it would be cool if owners of powerful Android phones could enjoy a high-end laptop's great build quality while paying a fraction of the price, assuming they weren't looking for high-end laptop gaming or professional editing apps or something.

Motorola tried this ages ago. Nobody cared. ASUS has tried this. Nobody cared.

Sorry, it's an idea that doesn't seem to have any traction in the marketplace. I'd be more interested to see slider phones make a return. The few 2012 premium models that are still knocking around keep getting sold and used and refurbished and re-sold on ebay many times, since there's nothing better.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


BreakAtmo posted:

edit: Just looked up the Motorola Atrix dock. Only worked with one phone and launched at $500 (or $300 when bought with the phone). I wouldn't be interested in it either. What was the ASUS one?

The Motorola Lapdock worked with more models than just one.

Many of their phones around that time had the option to boot into a different Linux desktop environment when plugged in, called Webtop.

ASUS, PadFone. They have a fair few versions, but it's essentially a phone you slap in a tablet, and you can also have a keyboard dock for it.

Maybe these examples aren't exactly the same, but they're not far off. I know they're older and not worth looking into now, but I just thought I'd show the idea isn't totally original.

Edit: Foldable phones are nifty I guess, but unless you have a gap, the stress on the folding part of the screen is going to be high, and it will surely eventually fail.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 09:02 on Aug 13, 2016

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


BreakAtmo posted:

The Lapdock worked only with select phones using a proprietary cable and cost hundreds.

It was just standard USB2 and micro-HDMI.

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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BreakAtmo posted:

Really? That's odd, when I saw some pictures it seemed to use some large cable type. I'm surprised that so many phones had micro-HDMI, how well did it work?

Fine, you can connect to a normal TV, the pinout is identical to that of HDMI, so you just buy a passive adapter or cable. Have a Droid 4, Droid RAZR MAXX HD and an Xperia Pro lying around here which do that perfectly.

The combined large cable you saw is just microUSB-B and micro-HDMI next to each other - Motorola standardised the port placement at that time, so a combined connector could be hooked up quickly. None of their newer devices are like that, though.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 18:04 on Aug 13, 2016

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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NihilCredo posted:

(I'm not sure if this is the right thread for this question, but it's the best I could find.)

If I want a rechargeable AA battery with as much capacity as humanly possible and don't care one bit about any other criteria (lifetime, recharge time, and whatnot), what should I buy? If I just put the biggest mAh numbers into shopping search pages I get weird off-brand batteries whose claims I should probably not trust.

Eneloop Pro...

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Star War Sex Parrot posted:

Do we still like Eneloop after the brand was sold to Panasonic and the manufacturing/technology sold to Fujitsu? Are Panasonic Eneloops still the way to go or are Fujitsu's rechargeables now interesting?

Eneloop Pros are still made in Japan if I recall correctly, but the lower models should be avoided, as it's a toss up whether you get Eneloops, or some Chinese batteries with Eneloop written on them; buy the Fujitsu versions directly, then you're assured of the original Eneloop quality. For reference, the equivalent Fujitsu part numbers for the 4th generation Eneloop (not pro) are as follows: AAAs - HR-4UTCEX, AAs - HR-3UTCEX.

I've bought a couple of packs of the Fujitsu ones myself, using them with the original Panasonic Eneloop charger, all seems well; the regular Eneloops (Japanese at least, or Fujitsu equivalent) as linked above are basically the best choice for general purpose, but aren't the out-and-out highest capacity type like the Pros.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 22:01 on Nov 26, 2016

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Alereon posted:

Has anyone actually tested the Fujitsu batteries vs the Eneloops to confirm they are identical? It's a pretty reasonably assumption but I'd worry they'd second-source sometimes. Eneloops are always Japanese-made in North America, if you're buying from Ebay or an Amazon third-party seller (vs "ships from and sold by Amazon") you will get counterfeits.

The whole situation is unclear in some respects, but it's clear that "Eneloop" is just a brand since the Panasonic buyout, and the original technology is not unique to Panasonic branded cells. Turns out the company that most likely makes them in Japan is FDK, who also manufacture the Fujitsu branded cells. Here's an interesting post about the whole thing.

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Nov 26, 2016

HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

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Stabbey_the_Clown posted:

Disc cloning question:
My hard drive configuration is like this:

250 GB SSD:
100 MB Reserved Space
C Drive (System) - ~125 GB
E Drive - ~125 GB

1 TB Disc:
F Drive - ~100 GB
D Drive - ~200 GB
H Drive - ~200 GB
I Drive - ~500 GB

Even though I never installed applications to the C (System) drive, lots of stuff gets added to it anyway, so I'm running out of System drive space faster than expected. I am also running out of space on some partitions on my 1 TB drive.

I am upgrading my 1 TB drive to a 2 TB drive, and while I'm at it, I want to clone the stuff off of my E drive so I can delete that partition and expand the C Drive to the full 250 GB to give me more room. (I hope that's possible to do, but I'm not completely sure.) When I do that, I also want to increase the size of each of the clones of my F,D,H, and I partitions. I was also planning to clone them in alphabetical order so the letters would be in the right order (but if that's a pain to do it is not required).

250 GB SSD:
100 MB Reserved Space
C Drive (System) - ~250 GB

New 2 TB Disc:
D Drive: 300 GB (+100)
E Drive: 100 GB (+0)
F Drive: 200 GB (+100)
H Drive: 400 GB (+200)
I Drive: 500 GB (+500)

I've had success using Clonezilla to migrate drives before, but I am unclear if it is possible to do a partition-to-partition clone where you're cloning to a larger-size partition than the original. I have been assuming that it is possible, but I want to check and find out any potential pitfalls or things I need to do differently than a simple disk-to-disk. I've written down which disk is plugged into which port on the motherboard (from the BIOS startup menu) and written down the disk sizes, partition sizes and serial numbers of the disks to make sure I don't overwrite the wrong disk or copy the wrong partitions.

(Is this question so large that it should be in its own thread? Sorry if it is, I can move it out.)

Stop making weird partitions, you're just wasting space

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HalloKitty
Sep 30, 2005

Adjust the bass and let the Alpine blast


teagone posted:

I ordered these molex to SATA adapters from Amazon to add more HDDs to my Plex server: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...0?ie=UTF8&psc=1 But just noticed the reviews of them catching fire. Do I uhh, have to be worried about that? Should I get Monoprice branded ones instead? I'm also reading that those and most molex to SATA adapters don't have the orange 3.3 VDC cable that some SATA devices require. How do I know if my hard drives need that orange 3.3 VDC?

No drives use 3.3v (actually, maybe some 1.8"), but you should be worried, there's a mounting pile of evidence that the fully moulded type of SATA connector from cheap sources (poor quality control, lack of gold plating] are likely a hazard waiting to occur, years down the line.

Check this video: http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=TataDaUNEFc

HalloKitty fucked around with this message at 11:30 on Dec 7, 2016

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