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If you can afford it, look into the LG PA77U.
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Apr 3, 2015 17:45
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lionlegs posted:King Hotpants, have you had the chance to review the Sony Ultra Short Throw Projector yet? The people who buy these things don't read reviews, so no. KillHour posted:LG did it first. The Sony one, at $50K, is 4K native, can go up to 150" diagonal, and includes sound. Still ridiculously expensive, but not the same as the LG. Neither one of these is revolutionary -- they're both just RPTVs without the box, more or less. Aeka 2.0 posted:Saw this show up next to the Sony short throw. You can overlay some cheap projectors to make a high lumens large venue projector. Id wonder how sharp and what kind of contrast ratio will result, but this does look like a bitchin' cheap option. Roll-your-own edge blending. This has been a thing for many years, and that's also how you get most passive polarized 3D. OldSenileGuy posted:Does anyone have any experience with ultra cheap projectors like either of these: They really are garbage. They're so dim that it's difficult to get a watchable picture out of them at all. Most of them have terrible firmware flaws, some features that flat-out don't work, and the image settings are usually locked, so you have god-awful color (like visibly bad, not just imperfect) and sharpness cranked up to maximum. Stephen posted:I'm looking for a recommendation as I know nothing much about projectors: This isn't really feasible during daylight hours. Sorry.
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Apr 15, 2015 22:47
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Small portable projectors usually do have a tripod hole, but the W1070 does not.
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Apr 21, 2015 22:35
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Zero VGS posted:I've got the projector now and I gotta say, I think they're fibbing a bit with the 1400 ANSI lumens figure. I've yet to see a pure LED (non-laser hybrid) projector that got much beyond 800 lumens. That said, almost everyone fudges the lumen spec, to the point where it's noteworthy when it's accurate. And the companies that don't fudge lumens almost certainly fudge contrast, or lamp life, or whatever. quote:With companies like CREE that keep making huge strides in LED brightness I think we'll have brightness/cost parity with bulbs soon and make bulbs obsolete. We've been thinking that for almost ten years now. Bottom line: don't hold your breath. Dr Rotcod posted:Also, I'm interested in the BenQ projectors. Should I wait for the consensus on the new Epson 740HD, 2040/45 models before I make a decision? I don't like the inexpensive Epson projectors and I don't see that changing much any time soon. Below $1,500, your best bet is (and likely will remain) the BenQ W1070/HT1075. Kameh posted:rolling black bars Definitely not a failing bulb. That looks like a ground loop problem. You mention switching from AT&T to Comcast. Was that about when the problem started? My guess is that Comcast hosed up the install and it's feeding back into your system. Try taking all the Comcast gear out completely (unplug from the wall, disconnect the coax, etc) and see if the Xbone still has the problem.
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Aug 13, 2015 21:26
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wolfbiker posted:I've built two home theaters in two homes I've owned/own. The first one I did I spent $3,000 on the projector and $150 on DIY screen. On my second I spent $1,000 on the projector and $1,500 on the screen. The cheaper projector with the better screen looks way better than the more expensive projector and the DIY screen. The screen you can keep forever, while the projector you will likely upgrade. I think it's worth spending the money on one. Preach. Aeka 2.0 posted:Speaking of screens, im trying to find a good AT material. I have the Seymore XD material, and it does a great job of not losing much light, but my issue is that I can see the direction of the material in the image in certain shades. I've tested other materials, but they lose a greater amount of light than the XD material. Stewart will add AT perforations to almost all of their screen materials. negativeneil posted:Hey Projector thread, I'm pretty keen on the BenQ W1070 or something in that price range, but my setup forces me to install the projector about 1.5' to the left of the room center. I understand that the 1070 doesn't have horizontal lens shift. Is there a comparable projector that does? Thanks! You either have to get an LCD projector like the Epson 8350 or step up to the BenQ W7500 which has horizontal shift. None of the cheap DLPs have horizontal lens shift. SwissCM posted:Is paint much worse though? I'd prefer to max out the screen size as much as possible and $1500 is a bit much to spend on a screen (and I doubt there's $1500 worth of parts and materials in it). First off, bigger isn't always better. Too big gets uncomfortable. Measure your viewing distance (eyes to screen) and then divide by 1.1 (close) and 1.5 (far). Make an outline on your wall with masking tape and see what it's like to actually sit down and look at something that big. Adjust as needed. Second, there isn't $1500 worth of parts and materials in anything that costs $1500, so that's kind of a stupid thing to say. Your $1000 projector didn't cost $1000 to make. Most of the cost of an item is R&D, marketing, and other overhead (paying the employees, keeping the lights on, et cetera). Third, and this is just my personal opinion: paint screens loving blow. I hate paint, and I hate paint even more when I have to get it perfect. There's always a drip or something that ruins the whole thing and then that's all I can see.
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Aug 25, 2015 22:33
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I wouldn't use the ST100 in a home theater. On the other hand, the ST130 is my favorite screen material. Ever.
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Aug 26, 2015 03:39
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Aeka 2.0 posted:really. So no hot spotting or anything? Nope. It's gonna cost a lot, depending on how large of a screen you want. But you're the "doing everything right" guy in this thread, so I thought I'd throw it out there.
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Aug 26, 2015 05:45
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Aeka 2.0 posted:Do not touch projectors that are meant for business. That one will have a slow color wheel, causing some serious rainbow artifacts in blacks, plus the contrast ratios usually suck bad as they are meant for brightness and not detail. I came in to answer this and you got there first. Sperg moment: the color wheel will probably be spinning at the same speed (7200 RPM in most projectors). The difference is in the color wheel segments. Here's how. The W1070/HT1075 have color wheels with six segments -- two each of red, green, and blue. We call this an RGBRGB wheel. Business projectors usually include white (clear) and sometimes the secondaries (cyan, magenta, yellow). So you'll see RGBCMY or RGBCYW. 7200 RPM is 120 revolutions per second. At 60 frames per second, that's two revolutions per frame. So the W1070 will, in one frame, flash RGBRGB RGBRGB. Each color is refreshed four times in each frame. A business projector will flash RGBCYW RGBCYW, which is twice per color per frame. That's how you get a "4X wheel" or a "2X wheel." That's the basics. Some projectors get a little tricky when working with 24FPS, but we'll save that for another day. Aeka 2.0 posted:Do they even sell the material separate? I never got a response back on email and I hate using what little lunch time I have on the phone. I'm sure they do. However all the people I know who have done this already own a Stewart frame, and I'm not sure if that makes a difference.
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Sep 1, 2015 22:31
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emocrat posted:...I will say I have a 97% light controlled room... Re: light control -- are your walls/ceiling white? If they are, fix that. Fabric is best. Matte paint in a dark neutral color is better than nothing. Tab tensioned is what you want if you're set on retractable. The big boys don't do the two-screen thing, they use masking. Stewart makes retractable screens with masking and I'm sure most of the other major manufacturers (Draper, Da-Lite, Screen Innovations) do too. What size was your last screen? If you're going bigger this time, you'll need higher gain to keep the same image brightness. If you give me that info I can make a better recommendation. iSimian posted:The room itself is white painted with windows on one wall, but these all have metal blinds, so I can shut out the light pretty well... From those options, I'd stick with the W1070. I'd also put some effort into making your walls and ceiling something other than white. That will have a huge positive impact on picture quality. Rinaldi posted:I'd like to get a cheap projector with the intention of using it outdoors at night. Get a cheap Epson business projector. They make one model that's around $300 and I think it has a built-in speaker. That's going to be a million times better and brighter than the no-name crap you'll find on Amazon/eBay for less money. Projector Central did a series on cheap projectors that you might want to read. Aeka 2.0 posted:Hey King, Unfortunately, the only people who know the answer to this work at JVC. Your best bet is to get in touch with them and see what they say. Sir Nose posted:Time to upgrade! Right now I have Samsung SP-H710E on a shelf over the couch, 100" screen, throw distance of 140". Want to go full HD 3D. The only "affordable" projector with a powered zoom right now is the Panasonic AE8000, which is showing its age. If you can live without that, get the Sony HW40ES. It fits your throw requirements and it looks fantastic. If you want to spend some extra money, get one of the JVC models; they have powered zoom, focus, and lens shift and can be programmed to zoom up/down for 2.39:1/1.78:1 switching. You can also rig up that anamorphic lens on some kind of sled and move it in and out of the projector's light path. This takes some fine-tuning to get right, as anamorphic lenses are a little finicky, but that's how anamorphic widescreen is traditionally done. Fancypants rich people use motorized sleds with a 12V trigger, but you could probably make one out of drawer slides and wood if you're handy. Actually, I should make one of those. Thanks for the idea.  mediaphage posted:Haaaa, I can tell I haven't been on the forums lately, because I was surprised to see this thread. Hurray! Collapsible/takedown screens are either built like tanks (these are built for trade shows and priced accordingly) or fragile as poo poo. You can get motorized retractable screens. Some of them are even built to recess completely into the ceiling when you're not using them. Get something tab-tensioned -- it will stop the screen from developing ripples over time.
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Oct 13, 2015 23:42
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Aeka 2.0 posted:RE: different screen materials I'm not super familiar with AT screens unfortunately, so this is about as far as my limited knowledge will go. That said, you're going to notice the perforations right now because you're actively looking for them (as you should be). I see flaws in every projector I look at, but I can also enjoy a movie even on a crap projector as long as I let myself enjoy the movie and stop looking for problems. Sir Nose posted:What about appropriate IR 3D glasses? HW40ES literature recommends Sony brand (of course), but they are pricey, nearly $100 apiece. Will other glasses work, or are there compatibility issues? What are some good options? You can apparently use the IR glasses meant for the PS3, which cost all of $25 each. emocrat posted:So, in my old space the ceiling was flat black and the walls were a mid level red. I think one of my problems was that the walls, despite being a darker color, had a more shiny finish and reflected a decent bit of light. Vertical masking is better for most people, but not everyone. Most people are height-limited before they are width-limited. Also, you use vertical masking for constant image height (CIH), and CIH is how the vast majority of anamorphic lenses are designed to work. For your situation, it sounds like horizontal masking would be better. Re: screen size and brightness. You mentioned that your 1.1 gain screen was too bright, but it was also only 92" diagonal. A 92" diagonal 16:9 screen is about 3,600 square inches. Moving up to a 120" screen brings area to 6,195 square inches -- quite a bit larger. The Sony VW70 was what, 800 lumens? A 1.1 gain screen sounds about right given that brightness and screen size. You'd be getting 32 fL from the 92" screen and 18 fL from the 120" screen -- so it's not surprising that you thought it was too bright, because it was way too bright.
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Oct 14, 2015 23:37
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The number most people use is 16 fL. You calculate fL by dividing lumen output (in the mode you're using) by screen area (in square feet) and then multiplying by screen gain. I like Stewart, but that's partially because I've used a lot of their stuff over the years. Right now I have a Firehawk G4, a Studiotek 130, and a Studiotek 100. The Firehawk will help cut down on reflected light and keep your contrast up, so if you can afford it, that's what I'd do.
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Oct 15, 2015 20:19
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SwissCM posted:Okay, last time I didn't have the information to really ask a definitive question, but now that things are clearer (amplifier bought, projector and mount has been ordered) I figured I'd come for you guys help again. Unfortunately $250 doesn't get you a lot of screen. At that price, I'd look into the DIY options. If you can afford a few hundred more, look at Elite or Vapex, I guess. I've never been fond of Elite's low-end stuff, but it beats the crap out of using a wall. The last time I saw a Vapex was when they were brand new, and the prototype frame I got deposited black flocking particles into my carpet that I couldn't ever get out. I'm sure they must have fixed that problem, because we gave them absolute hell for it. Aeka, when you had your Vapex, did you ever meter it out and see how it performed? I'd be interested to know.
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Oct 17, 2015 00:33
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ShotgunWillie posted:If I have the budget, is there a reason not to get a projector like the Epson 5025UB over the BenQ HT1075? No. The 5025 is a superior projector. News for the thread: I'm officially out of the projector business. For those who guessed: yes, I worked at Projector Central.
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Dec 18, 2015 04:28
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I can't talk about it right now, but it'll be a hell of a story at some point. I know there are outstanding questions in this thread and I'll get to them soon. Thanks everyone.
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Dec 18, 2015 16:44
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