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I'm talking to a guy right now and looking to pick it up from him when I get back home in about a month. It's got the 4AGE Engine, some racing parts, and has apparently been kept in a garage under a car cover for about 6 years. I'm looking to get it, go fast, and blast techno music. What kind of stuff should I look out for?
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# ? Oct 1, 2014 20:54 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 08:48 |
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Well you said AE88 and 4AGE, so expecting to 'go fast' is a bit unrealistic. Also expect all the rubber and plastic to be dry-rotted from sitting for 6 years and also the tires will probably be flat spotted.
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# ? Oct 1, 2014 21:04 |
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It'll be full of rot too probably, especially if it's been stored under the wrong kind of car cover or over the wrong kind of surface.
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# ? Oct 1, 2014 21:07 |
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Okay. So those are things to look out for. I haven't settled on buying it just yet, I just wanted to know what kind of stuff to look out for when I finally do get the chance to see it. And I assume I need a better engine if I want to do silly fun stuff with it?
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# ? Oct 1, 2014 21:09 |
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http://club4ag.com/forums/ <--- Go here and start reading. Don't stop reading. AE86's aren't fast but they're a whole lot of fun. These cars are getting really rare depending on where you are. My Corolla was brutalized by a couple of previous owners (as are most of them these days), so be ready to wrench on the thing night and day. Please also consider buying a 240sx. They are cheaper, generally more available, can be made "fast" for not a lot of money, and no one will cry (too much) when you bin the thing. edit: Post pics when you get them. It's tough to judge what to look for without much info. Feel free to PM me if you've got any questions. I've been all the way through these cars by now. TheLarson fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Oct 1, 2014 |
# ? Oct 1, 2014 22:45 |
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If you aren't already go read club4ag and hachiroku.net If you are in a dry climate look for rust on the hatch and around the indicators get under it and see how bad the rust is down there on the suspension and drivetrain, if it comes from a place that rust is an issue it won't be worth the trouble. Look for broken interior bits, they are fragile and getting harder to find. If the interior is stripped don't do it. Find out if it has an LSD and if it still works, it probably won't. Real racing parts for it would be a Watts link in the rear, LCA spacers, a cage and rosejointed linkages. More likely it has cheapo coilovers, a big exhaust and a badly installed harness. The 4age is a great engine, it's basically a Cosworth BDA for the consumer market. It's fun while still being reliable, it can be driven a quarter million miles with nickel and dime maintenance. However the design is over 30 years old, the only cars it really shines in are old restomod roadsters. Problem areas on it are the ignitors and AFM, and mostly being full of oil sludge due to neglect. 0-60 when they were new was 10.5 seconds which was quick for a grocery getter in it's day but now anything will outpace it. That isn't to say they aren't fun to drive, they are small enough to blast around town and rewarding to drive at reasonable speeds. The engine will stay reliable under boost to about 240hp but the transmission won't and swapping a w56 in requires a custom bellhousing and clutch. Also since they are AFM turbocharging isn't trivial, you'll be in for a standalone ECU most likely. If you want it to go actual fast you're looking at an engine swap. If you want to blast around like a maniac at speeds up to and including 60mph then it will serve you just fine as it is or with some smart suspension upgrades.
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# ? Oct 1, 2014 22:53 |
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I got some pictures of the interior and of the engine. Interior looks like it's in good shape, actually. Not sure what the second picture is showing, but it looks awful dusty. As for the modifications he said he put on it, he gave a list of manufacturers but not really which parts. In addition, he said he's adding in a free Poncam Camshafts still in the box that cost him 750, apparently, to get from Japan. Edit: The LSD is the stock one, that's all the info I got. fishception fucked around with this message at 23:19 on Oct 1, 2014 |
# ? Oct 1, 2014 23:16 |
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For the lazy... http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/4667032752.html Craigslist posted:1985 GTS Corolla - $5100 (Waukesha) It looks like a coupe. That doesn't look terrible from the pics, but I'd definitely see the rest of the car before any judgements are made.
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# ? Oct 1, 2014 23:47 |
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I was hesitant to post it up 'cause I didn't want someone sniping it. :<
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# ? Oct 1, 2014 23:49 |
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TheLarson posted:For the lazy... 250,000 miles. "This is a museum piece car." Those two do not go together, ever. At all. Sperglord Firecock posted:I was hesitant to post it up 'cause I didn't want someone sniping it. :< Hey guys, give him feedback and support him, but he's worried that you might be a dick about it.
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# ? Oct 1, 2014 23:49 |
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TheLarson posted:For the lazy... Yeah. What are some important parts to look for on it? Obv the dry rot issue, etc.
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# ? Oct 1, 2014 23:54 |
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Wouldn't it be cheaper/less of a risk to just buy one from Japan?
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# ? Oct 2, 2014 00:07 |
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Can you even do that? And I'd imagine just shipping alone would be way too expensive.
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# ? Oct 2, 2014 00:23 |
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I don't follow the market for those cars but the price seems high to me. I'll sell you my 88 Supra turbo 5 speed for that much, I'll even re install the interior for you. I'm in Milwaukee.
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# ? Oct 2, 2014 03:50 |
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That might very well be an option. Does it run? Does it go fast? And is it in a state of not looking like a POS?
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# ? Oct 2, 2014 03:58 |
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Yes it runs w no problems, I daily drove it all summer. It has a couple dings and needs paint but is rust free. Hit me up at wmcoons at gmail
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# ? Oct 2, 2014 04:26 |
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Yeah, that's way too expensive. It's not in anywhere near the shape it would need to be to be a collector car in the future. If you're just looking for a fun car $5100ish can go way further. edit: 5min on craigslist brought up some interesting stuff. http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/4686902785.html Silvertop MR2 http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/cto/4689466236.html Galant VR4 http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/4619758371.html I miss my RX-7 http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/4640532563.html Low mileage Miata http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/4695175755.html Corvette http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/4675535101.html Supra or just end it all right now with a biturbo http://milwaukee.craigslist.org/cto/4576494965.html Of course if you are just really into the idea of a Corolla GTS absolutely chase your dream, they are easy to work on and fun to toss about. I just find it hard to justify when I paid $500 for mine and my friend paid $1800 for his but this was before Initial D became a thing and the Drift Tax was imposed. Bibendum fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Oct 2, 2014 |
# ? Oct 2, 2014 04:56 |
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I'd love to get a two-seater, but I heard insurance on them is way more expensive than with coupes. That Biturbo though. What kind of terrifying hellbeast would I be driving? Also, I'll be in Chicago, that's a better place to look. I'd really like a AE86, tbh, but if there's a neater light and zippy 4-cyl, I'm more than willing to compromise. fishception fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Oct 2, 2014 |
# ? Oct 2, 2014 05:34 |
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Sperglord Firecock posted:That Biturbo though. What kind of terrifying hellbeast would I be driving? I think "driving" might be a bit optimistic.
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# ? Oct 2, 2014 05:46 |
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Raluek posted:I think "driving" might be a bit optimistic. okay lemme just clarify this i want to actually drive the car guys
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# ? Oct 2, 2014 05:47 |
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Did you miss the mr2 link pasted above? It's the same car with engine in the back. Only it makes like 70% more power, has half of the miles and looks road ready. If you just want something light and rwd to toss around, take a long hard look at mx5 Miata. 5k will buy you a 6 speed '99. If you want to spend cubic amounts of money fixing stupid poo poo left and right, buy 80's boy racer pile of parts that has been sitting immobile for half a decade. Insurance has nothing to do with number of doors or seats. Call your current insurance provider and give them the VIN number for an accurate quote. Nitrox fucked around with this message at 14:05 on Oct 2, 2014 |
# ? Oct 2, 2014 14:03 |
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Huh, I always thought that 2-door two seaters costed more for insurance purposes. Oh well. If that is the case, then the MR2 looks loving awesome as poo poo, to be honest. It's not only a mean engine, it's also cheaper, lighter, zippier, and looks pretty darn cool too. Edit: The only issue is, I've heard that MR2s have serious issues with rusting and corrosion on the electrical bits, and I'd rather have something a bit more reliable and practical, tbh. fishception fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Oct 2, 2014 |
# ? Oct 2, 2014 17:11 |
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Edit: You think an older car from the same make is going to be any better?
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# ? Oct 2, 2014 17:41 |
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mafoose posted:You think an older car from the same make is going to be any better? This is a valid point. I just did some minor research with a guy who knows stuff, and apparently the problem lies in the body design of the MR2, where water just naturally collects in the engine compartment and rusts it pretty bad.
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# ? Oct 2, 2014 17:45 |
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The nice thing about that MR2 is, a lot of guys here in AI own / have owned AW11s like that one. So if you ever have any questions, there's plenty of people here that could help you with it. Also, they're just really rad cars. If I weren't 6'5" I'd love to own one
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# ? Oct 2, 2014 19:11 |
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Sperglord Firecock posted:This is a valid point. Main rust problems with the AW11 (the Mk1 MR2 you're looking at there) is that the rear arches and sills are badly designed so will trap water and rust. There are two types of AW11 - ones that have the arches repaired, and ones that will need it doing soon! Some body parts can be hard to come by: the front air dam for example is NLA so if it's cracked then you will need to deal with it. I also had problems with mine where the front crossmember rusted out so it looked like the car was drooling brown goo, but that might've just been that it sat for about six years on a UK driveway before I had it I must clarify: It was an absolutely fantastic car though, nicely quirky. More interesting than a Miata but more difficult to get bits for. Toyota still have a lot of parts available however.
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# ? Oct 2, 2014 19:17 |
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meltie posted:Main rust problems with the AW11 (the Mk1 MR2 you're looking at there) is that the rear arches and sills are badly designed so will trap water and rust. Or get one from the PNW where rust is not an issue I have had 4 aw11's, 2 with 20v swaps, and none have had rust issues on them. Since this is an 85 stripper model(hardtop, no power options), you don't have the unobtainable front lip and it is the lightest aw11 ever made. The body looks to be in really good shape from the pictures, but the yellow paint job could be hiding something. Also the '85 has both front and rear sway bars, which is nice. While parts are harder to come by than for a miata, you can pretty easily find anything you might need for them. twosrus.com is your friend as they have limited runs for random parts that toyota does not make anymore. I love aw11's more than I should, and a 20v swap makes them amazing to drive. I am unfamiliar with the name Dave Spinetti, but if it is an early 20v swap the wiring harness might be questionable. Most people use ones from a guy who guys by mr220v on the forums and he does really good work doing the harness conversions.
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# ? Oct 2, 2014 22:08 |
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But anyways, getting back on topic to the AE86, 'cause I really do still wanna get it, especially if it is as good as I hope it is. A friend and his friend are gonna take a look at it and maybe test drive it this weekend, and report back to me.
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# ? Oct 3, 2014 00:19 |
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Update from the guy: "Yes. Last time I drove it (5 to 6 years ago) all was fine. I'm unsure how well it would run as the fuel in it has gone sour I'm sure. But if you want to bring a good battery we can get her going. All I can tell you is that you need to see the car. The motor, trans/ clutch, body, glass, LSD are all in good working order. Again I haven't drove it in a long time. The only reason for this is I bought a Grand National then another Grand National. At that point (having two GN's) I lost interest in the GTS so I parked it. I now have a 2010 GT500 so again I have no interest. I know I can get the car going and post videos on YouTube to aid in selling it. Videos of it revving out to 9K (oh it does) and drifting and all that. However that's not what I'm willing to do for two reasons. One is I work two jobs during the week 55+ total and on the weekend I repair automobiles in my driveway/ garage. So I just don't have time. Reason two is the big one. I know for a fact that if I did put time into this car I know I would not sell it. I would fall in love w/ it all over again. I've told myself many times I would never sell it. I bought it on E-Bay 7ish years ago for $5000 plus another $800 for freight/ hauling it to WI. I was worried about what I was getting and put a lot of trust into the "at the time" owner. Well when I got it was even better that I imagined and could have ever thought. I bought a set of new Konig wheels and a set of cams. Then six months or so later I popped on a Grand National. I didn't really even want to post pics of the car on Craig's list as I want to weed out "tire kickers". I feel that if someone is serious and wants to see the car at that time I will put the wrench down show her off and kiss her good bye. I want you or your friend to see the car and I will do whatever I can to address any concerns or questions. I think it would be best to bring a trailer as it has been sitting unattended for a long time. Don't let that scare you though. Its the real deal and there are no hidden surprises. As far as the price of the car Vs. the state its in right now. Well I don't have to sell it. I want to. Having said that I want what I feel I need to get to sell it. I hope we talk soon and I look forward to possibly meeting you. Thank you. P.S. I have paper work of the original E-Bay post and so much more. To much more."
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# ? Oct 3, 2014 02:31 |
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Don't buy an MR2 if you want (and can afford) the corolla. I'm hoping to be able to drive my MR2 some time in the next few weeks, but were i presented the same opportunity to buy a cheap MR2 or AE88, I would have picked the corolla. The MR2 is supposedly a great car to drive, but working on them is not easy.
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# ? Oct 3, 2014 02:57 |
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Also, I'll be in Chicago, that's a better place to look. It really, really isn't. Unless, that is, you like wading through ads asking triple market value for some clapped out piece of poo poo with a rattle can paint job and lovely eBay wheels. Oh, and rust. gently caress the Chicago car market.
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# ? Oct 3, 2014 05:02 |
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Alright, so, 5.1k for a non-running AE88 is, really, kind of unacceptable. So, here's my plan. I'm going to offer him 400 dollars extra (bringing it to 5.5k) to bring it to a good solid working condition (it'd probably take me 1k to do it myself by estimates provided by TheLarson). If he doesn't take that offer, I DO have another option, like a 300ZX or a Mazda RX-7. The RX-7 actually seems pretty nice, 3.5k for a fully functional car with the 13B engine (which I have heard is the better engine by someone that owns one). http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/4692504956.html
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# ? Oct 3, 2014 05:23 |
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Rawrl posted:It really, really isn't. Unless, that is, you like wading through ads asking triple market value for some clapped out piece of poo poo with a rattle can paint job and lovely eBay wheels. Oh, and rust.
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# ? Oct 3, 2014 05:42 |
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Sperglord Firecock posted:Alright, so, 5.1k for a non-running AE88 is, really, kind of unacceptable. Hahahahahaha. Dude, if you're not willing to take the time to learn how to work on it yourself, you need to reevaluate owning a "classic" Japanese car, especially one that needs work.
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# ? Oct 3, 2014 06:10 |
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mafoose posted:Hahahahahaha. I'm fine with learning how to work on it myself. I just have no plausible way to take it from Wisconsin to my house, and I don't want a car sitting in Wisconsin waiting for me to fix it.
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# ? Oct 3, 2014 06:11 |
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Borrow a truck? U-haul trailers are cheap. E: VVV U-haul trucks have a ridiculous mileage fee, though. I'd avoid renting a truck for long distances. I just looked it up, 69 cents per mile. Raluek fucked around with this message at 06:35 on Oct 3, 2014 |
# ? Oct 3, 2014 06:13 |
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Rent a truck and trailer, or pay for a tow/shipping.
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# ? Oct 3, 2014 06:14 |
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Raluek posted:Borrow a truck? U-haul trailers are cheap. ..... this is a valid point, okay
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# ? Oct 3, 2014 06:16 |
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Well, it has IGNITION which is always a good thing in a car. You should definitely buy it.
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# ? Oct 3, 2014 14:09 |
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# ? Apr 26, 2024 08:48 |
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Sperglord Firecock posted:"Yes. Last time I drove it (5 to 6 years ago) [...] I bought it on E-Bay 7ish years ago" Yeah it's a great car, I love it. I only used it for 6 months but it's great. No it doesn't run. Please pay me $5k. Unless you are desperate for an AE86 and won't settle for a different car with less drift tax, I'd avoid it.
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# ? Oct 3, 2014 14:46 |