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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Adiabatic posted:

Why is there no mid-engined GTI in that model?

Because that's the reliable daily driver in his stable. :black101:

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

sansteele posted:

That's a dope door, don't let this guy tell you otherwise.

Also, Fuzzkill, this is an awesome project and I love living vicariously through you. With this and your gti. Hope you finish it soon so you have a place to store your toys

gently caress the GTI, the nutso supercharged V8 swapped Colorado and the nutso supercharged V6 swapped Corolla are both way more interesting. Too bad he doesn't have the WS6 anymore...

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

sansteele posted:

Goddamn, I haven't seen anything about those. Do you have any kind of thread links, pictures or anything?

Looks like his threads have fallen into the archives, and if he posted about them elsewhere I don't know where. He did post this thread about the truck when he put the 6.0L in, but there's not much content.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

sansteele posted:

I have archives so nbd, but thanks for that link anyway, goonsir

I believe this is the original build thread for the Corolla, although I do not myself have archives to verify this:
http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2813206

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Also, Costco has (had?) some LED fixtures for $40ish that GarageJournal seems fairly impressed with. I'd expect them to handle cold temperatures better than fluorescents, but that assumes that they aren't the Chinesest things ever.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

kastein posted:

It sounds like you need a blower off a 4-53. Those are a bit over half the displacement of your engine, but two stroke, so I suspect that one would work well if geared to run at the same speed as it would on the detroit. Failing that, a 6-71 or 8v71 blower... :getin:

Don't those generally need the screws moved in tighter to work well on performance applications? I was under the impression that those Detroit blowers needed some work to be effective.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

some texas redneck posted:

I almost feel bad for the previous owner of the Tundra now, that really turned into a hell of a flip. Plenty of work, but you should see a nice profit.

Any idea how the hell they grenaded the engine? That was some pretty impressive damage.

From his post-mortem, looks like the wrist pin let go, somehow…. defective piston casting, maybe?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

meatpimp posted:

Those cars have always been recipients of V8 swaps, but an LSx in there would be perfect.

When I originally bought my LM7 and T-56, I was planning on dumping them into an early 240, but I ended up finding the Chevelle first and decided to change up the plans.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
So are you going to just hope that your lack of traction is going to save the T5? 'Cause I thought they were pretty short lived behind stock smaller displacement motors, much less a built 6.0L.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
I'm not going to ask if it's going to be supercharged, because I think that would be a stupid question looking at your other vehicles. Instead I suppose I should ask what kind of supercharger you are going to put on it.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

FuzzKill posted:

Yes the truck intake isn't a terrible choice if you have the room, it's just terribly ugly. I think they look pretty decent if you smooth out all the ridges and gusseting and studs and crap but that's a huge time investment - plus it won't fit for me anyway. I do recall that it makes the most torque down low vs. the car intakes, but lacks on the top end.

IIRC it lacks compared to the LS6 intake, but it's still better than the car intake in pretty much every way except that it's bulky. It's making me second guess the LS1 intake I put on my 5.3, especially because I haven't decided how I'm going to solve the problem of making it fit with the accessories. Gonna have to buy a new water pump, and those suckers aren't cheap compared to the normal gen1 SBC stuff.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

SouthsideSaint posted:

Its cause of this I'm looking for a SBC due to no one wanting to gently caress with carbs or TBI. They are super cheap as always and parts are cheap and easy to fix. I'm trying to buy an apache that's been abandoned for a while but no one is calling me back. I mean I hopped a fence to put multiple notes sealed in a sandwich bag on the truck.

That Z is so pretty and V8 is the best option for old Japanese cars like it.

Yea it's true that parts are cheaper for gen1 than gen3/4, but you really do end up with a better motor with the late model stuff. It's a lot easier to build a 400HP LM7 than it is to build a 400HP SBC. Plus, the late model stuff has pretty much everything stock that you'd pay extra to upgrade in a gen1. It's got a roller cam and roller pivot rockers (I guess that's one thing they aren't - roller tip), one piece rear main seal. With a gen1 you have to search to get a 4-bolt main, whereas every gen3/4 motor is 6-bolt. I guess it's not a surprise that they can make 600HP on a stock bottom end reliably, and double that if hotrod is to be believed.

But yeah, it's nice to have the simplicity of a carbureted gen1 sometimes, although there are certainly drawbacks.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

FuzzKill posted:

a lightly used TKO600 [...] for less than half [of $2400]

You bastard! :allears:

I paid about that much for a T-56, without the clutch or anything like that.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

FuzzKill posted:

Lack of updates but not lack of things!

I was scrambling to finish some side work I took on before I went on vacation for 2 weeks so I didn't really get to work on the truck much.

When I came back, it seems that whenever I have time to work or motivation to work I have some other peoples cars in my yard. I did manage to scrape some time and got my truck back on the road last week. Needs some minor things but everything seems to be running well. I've got about 150 miles on it so far.

With all the extra jobs I was doing, I did have some money to reinvest into tools and car parts - which is the entire point of this garage!

I picked up a smoke machine for leak diagnostics. First time I used it I saved literally hours of diagnostic and head scratching time.

In the car part category I will be beginning the 240Z LS conversion sometime soon. I just purchased a set of Speedhut gauges for inside and headers/catback for the car. Also picked up a new set of wheels so I can ditch the atrocities that are currently there. Those were pretty much the last big ticket items I will need, unless I find a problem with the radiator or accessory drive setup. I started de-looming the wiring harness for the engine for some serious truncation - The end result will be the same no matter the donor harness but because I am starting with a truck harness there will be a lot more crap to remove. I'm hoping I won't need to lengthen the computer or very many sensors - hopefully just a few adjustments and tidying.

Parts I have:
Engine with intake, fuel rail, throttle body, coils
TKO 600 transmission with bellhousing and clutch
Donor harness
Donor drive shaft
Electronic gauges
Motor mounts
Full exhaust system

Parts I still need:
Fuel injectors (may run truck injectors, it pains me to do so but if the motor is close to stock ...)
Water pump, alternator and alternator bracket
Fuel pump (may steal walbro unit from Corolla)
Compressor and bracket for eventual A/C
Coolant hoses
Filter/intake setup
Clutch hydraulics
Transmission mount (will probably be adapting or making my own)
Shortening/adapting of driveshaft once measurements are made

I'm a little bit worried about you, because "supercharger" is listed on neither list. Are you OK?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

leica posted:

Their projects are pretty cool, but they also do a lot of dumbass street racing. Instead of being cheap asses they should just spend the money and get their poo poo legal for the speeds they run at the track.

That would probably double his outlay on a project. Much cheaper to take it to the track once, get kicked out, then sell the car for a profit and start over on a new one.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

kastein posted:

Remember to put "connector buttplugs" (not sure of the proper name, that's just what I call them when I'm not at work, where I just list a part number) in the unpopulated ECU pins, otherwise you'll let water and dirt leak through the hole.

They are supposedly different for each model/series/manufacturer of connector but honestly if it's snug in the connector's gasket/gland rubber, it'll do fine.

How critical is this in non-engine-bay applications? I'm planning on doing basically the same thing, but mounting the ecu on the inside of the firewall behind the glovebox.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

ShittyPostmakerPro posted:

I still can't get over how physically small LS motors are.

I'm telling you, small block chevys are good for just about everything. Have been since 1955.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

FuzzKill posted:

I am upset with myself for the length of time this is taking and for what I have accomplished to this point.

Okay, what the gently caress. I think a good chunk of the people here would be extremely pleased with finishing as much as you have in the same amount of time; I know I would be. Keep on rockin'.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

some texas redneck posted:

Didn't Dorman come out with a replacement 4.6/5.4 intake manifold that fixed the OEM manifold's tendency to crack?

Yep. And a replacement diaphragm for the VW PCVs that are built into the valve cover, so you don't have to tear the valve cover off to fix the PCV. Dorman's good people.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

IOwnCalculus posted:

They're coming out with all sorts of stuff lately. They have an intake manifold for the LS1 which actually uses a licensed FAST 78 lower half, and their own upper half. Ends up being about on par with the LS6 / late LS1 manifold, and a minor improvement over the early LS1. They were even discussing the possibility of a version with a larger throttle body opening.

Whoa nice. Looks like it's $300, and has EGR. Is there a version without EGR?

E: I mean, it comes with a blockoff, but it'd be nice if there was a version without it even being in the casting.


MADE IN USA :patriot:

Raluek fucked around with this message at 04:01 on Sep 19, 2016

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

Elmnt80 posted:

Thanks for reminding me, they have some awesome replacement hoses for late 2000s or early 2010's chryco minivan where the factory heater hose has a plastic y in it from the factory. The y cracks and leaks after a few years, so dorman sells a set of replacement hises where its replaced with an aluminum y. Need to put that into stock given its cheaper than buying both hoses from gates and the gates ones still fail.

Also might order in the ls manifold since I nabbed a performance shop specializing in gen 3 and gen 4 LS motors as a commercial customer for us. Got a part number handy?

Dorman's number is 615-900. http://www.dormanproducts.com/itemdetail.aspx?ProductID=74055&SEName=615-900

I wish all parts store dudes gave even half a poo poo as much as you do :shobon:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

FuzzKill posted:

The shop is so well lit that if you don't drop from actual exhaustion you can easily work well into the night and lose track of time as you don't realize how late it is.

Came upon an interesting snag with the supercharger setup.

The Datsun has an F-body LS1 belt drive setup. Camaro waterpump, low mount alternator, balancer, and tensioner. I also have an add on AC that sits on the driver side. All the supercharger idlers/tensioner sit on the passenger side so everything was supposed to play nice.

The E-force kit I have is for LS3 heads and the F-body belt offset. The S/C pulley does line up with my belt drive. When I installed the idler and tensioner however, they both sit about an inch inboard of the supercharger. Also, the water pump has a passenger side top fitting, and it hits the belt. Even if it didn't, the belt goes around the hose so you would have to remove the top radiator hose to install the belt. No good.

In the instructions provided the pictures show a pump with a driver side top hose fitting, which can only be an LS3 pump. Problem is that there are two (actually 3 really) LS3 pumps. I'm hoping that one of the LS3 pumps will take care of both of these issues. If the offset where the tensioner goes is farther outward that would space out the new tensioner assembly to where it needs to be. Either that, or maybe some spacers are needed. Guesswork is the last thing I want in a belt driven supercharger setup, which is why I'm changing up the S/C setup in the truck...but that is another story.

What I'm not sure about is if the Corvette LS3 pump pulley will line up with my belt or if the Camaro LS3 pump pulley will line up with my belt. Argh. My AC bracket mounts to the water pump bolts on the driver side, and from what I can see with the Camaro pump there is a big raised section in between the bolts, which would require me to cut up my bracket (or it might not work at all). The Corvette pump has nice flat mounting bosses, but is a different offset from the Camaro pump so likely only 1 will work.

Why would they use an LS3 pump on a kit for an LS1 belt drive! :argh:

Did they send you the right parts? That sounds like something you'll have to solve with a phone call to Edelbrock.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

FuzzKill posted:

Edelbrock was supposed to call me back today. After talking with several different people someone actually understood what I was trying to get across and did some research on their end. It appears that they may have mocked up the kit with the wrong water pump - not entirely sure yet.

In the mean time I procured a Camaro and Corvette LS3 pump. Camaro is wrong in every way and won''t work. Corvette pump isn't a bolt on deal but could be modified to work (read: angle grinder). I've already modified the Corvette pump to work and I'm planning on using that unless they have a better solution at Edelbrock (maybe I'll hear back Monday ...). To modify the Corvette pump I had to grind down some unused bolt bosses on one side and then figure out a way to pull the pulley forward on the shaft to align with the belt. I can't use water pump spacers because that would throw everything else that bolts to the pump out of alignment.

Draining the coolant now ...

Have you tried the L92 pump? I think it's similar to the LS3 pump (I don't know if it's the Vette or the Maro one) but has the taller pulley on it.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

FuzzKill posted:

The newer truck pumps use the same offset as the 2010+ Camaro, which is an entire belt width too far out from the block. Also I think they have a weird hose angle and it's on the wrong side. Corvette LS3 is tighter than the F-body (about 1/2 belt width) but you can either get water pump spacers or pull the pulley off the shaft some.

We'll see how this pans out.

Oh, alright. I didn't know that the later gen4 cars and trucks had the same offset. I thought the L92 pump had a really long/wide (depending on how you look at it) bell pulley so that it would line up for either the car or truck configuration, but I must be thinking of something else. Sounds like you've got the problem mostly solved with the Vette pump, are you going to ask Edelbrock for compensation for sorting out their poo poo?

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
Are you running a 6-rib belt for the supercharger? I did some reading last night on the LSA supercharger, and they use a dedicated 8-rib belt for that. I guess the LSA uses Corvette spacing for the accessories, then has an 8-rib additional pulley on the end of the crank pulley that is close to truck spacing for just the supercharger. If they had to do that for the factory supercharger, I wonder if you'll have issues with belt slip with only 6 ribs (shared with the accessory drive) with this aftermarket one.

But I guess Edelbrock would not have released the product if it did.

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