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FuzzKill posted:Picked up the lift today, along with a 12ft A-frame ladder. Should make things easier. Nothing done today, too much running around and it was raining most the evening. Hoping for some more progress in the next couple days. Do yourself a favor and rig up a ghetto ginpole A-frame that fits the recovery point on the truck. Heavy strap cable-stay to the receiver hitch, 2 ton chainfall, forget about lifting beams and worrying about tipping the ladder over or losing your balance. (I hope you have plans to put a big overhead I-beam in the shop with a trolley and chainfall anyways... sooooo much nicer than an engine hoist/shop crane.)
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Dec 5, 2014 03:22
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 00:49 |
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Seriously. 2" PVC conduit or bigger. You will want it. Hell, put two in so you can run power and comms separately like you're supposed to. Conduit is cheap, digging holes sucks.
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Apr 16, 2015 01:26
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Need to do any engine swaps immediately? Because bobcats are great as engine hoists.
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Apr 18, 2015 12:21
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Wow, that is clean as hell. Good find. Do you have the old engine? I'd be tempted to pull it apart and figure out what's wrong with it before ordering a new one, worstcase you have pics for the horrible failures thread and some conversation pieces plus a coffee table base, best case you can put it back together for a couple hundred and drop it back in.
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Jun 23, 2015 00:38
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Figuring out where all the mystery bolts, hoses, and wires go that you didn't remove yourself? Making sure you don't use a too-long bolt and a too-short bolt swapped so one cracks the casting and the other strips the threads out? That's always... fun. It's like an adult jigsaw puzzle.
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Jun 26, 2015 01:49
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FuzzKill posted:In the service procedure for engine removal, it says to remove the wiper motor and cowl. It was still on the truck. It fought me tooth and nail coming out, and when I finally got the plastic cowl off I saw why. The wiper transmission bracket was touching the windshield, and that is what caused the windshield to crack! He pulled the engine, it snagged under the cowl and he pulled it up enough to kink the sheet metal cowl and force the wiper transmission bracket into the glass. Nice. Just going to bend the panel back to where it needs to be, but not until after the glass guy comes and puts in a new windshield. I'd strongly recommend doing the bending BEFORE putting the new glass in... last thing you want is the new glass cracking when you start bending the metal around it again. I know the wiper linkage hit it, but really, it takes very little to set off a windshield in the wrong spot... I've had chassis flex cause it, even on a good condition windshield. Looks awesome otherwise, too bad he took shortcuts pulling it apart.
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Jun 27, 2015 01:22
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It sounds like you need a blower off a 4-53. Those are a bit over half the displacement of your engine, but two stroke, so I suspect that one would work well if geared to run at the same speed as it would on the detroit. Failing that, a 6-71 or 8v71 blower... 
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Jun 28, 2015 23:59
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The motor has fewer miles than the body anyways? I'd either say nothing about what's recently done, or tell em everything, including exactly what you checked and what was repaired in the process of installing it. I have to say, I'd still rather buy this truck even with the ad as it reads now than some I've dealt with, I have less of a problem with "done right and not mentioned" and a lot more of a problem with the "heehaw fuckstick mcgee bodged this together and told no one" grade repairs I find after buying a used vehicle with no mention of repairs done. In fact I am fighting one of those right now and quite honestly it puts this in perspective, the new motor's got less miles than advertised, it was clearly installed right by a skilled mechanic. On the other hand I am about elbows deep in a 25 year old wiring harness some dickshit mcfuckhead decided he could repair with random garbage hookup wire, duct tape, and terrible electrical tape right now, with not a single crimp or solder joint in sight, and never told me was an issue. I'd love to meet that motherfucker in a dark alley right now, it would have been far better if he left it unfixed. 
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Jul 14, 2015 04:08
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I'd put the block and all other parts through a full cleanup at this point, who knows how much shop dust and garbage is in various places, or how many times some chucklefuck ran an angle grinder in the same room without any covers over anything. Sucks.
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Oct 7, 2015 18:17
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Remember to put "connector buttplugs" (not sure of the proper name, that's just what I call them when I'm not at work, where I just list a part number) in the unpopulated ECU pins, otherwise you'll let water and dirt leak through the hole. They are supposedly different for each model/series/manufacturer of connector but honestly if it's snug in the connector's gasket/gland rubber, it'll do fine.
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Dec 17, 2015 01:23
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FuzzKill posted:Can I be in the cool kids club now? If it is an EJ251 and needs heads I may have a pair for you for cheap  (the ones off my EJ251/EJ22E hybrid that I ran out of oil last month... it had a wicked rod knock but still ran. Pretty sure a ride through the parts washer, NEW VALVE STEM SEALS GOD gently caress PLEASE DO NOT SKIP THIS, and maybe some cam seals would fix them right up)
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May 16, 2016 16:52
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 00:49 |
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Raluek posted:Whoa nice. Looks like it's $300, and has EGR. Is there a version without EGR? They do, but there's some debate whether it's actually FAST anything, and one of the guys on the Sloppy Mechanics FB group just blew one apart at the seam at a whopping 7psi: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1383131305275204/permalink/1766052366983094/?match=ZG9ybWFu 
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Sep 19, 2016 19:34
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