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PoptartsNinja posted:Psyco XLR project Day, uh... I forget? Oh god, IT'S ACTIVATING THE JAMMER! 
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Dec 16, 2014 05:13
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Oh huh, RE/100 mkIII got pushed back to January. I guess they didn't want to waste the resources on it with RG WZC and PG Unicorn coming out this month. Going by how this display piece is quite literally a quick snapbuild (with masking tape under the eyes for some reason? or is that part of the design), the kit is already done.  Also in my never ending journey to reach rock bottom I picked up the Coreworks GP-01 fb conversion. Throw that in with the GP-02 resin head, and the UC Project GP-03 conversion kit I picked up a while back and I guess I'm adding 0083 to my backlog hell. Maybe I'll grab RE/100 GP-04 when that comes out. The backlog never ends. the gp's were actually the very last designs I was interested enough in to want kits of, so barring a sudden flurry of X kits I am actually done. your move, bandai
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Dec 16, 2014 05:48
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BlitzBlast posted:Oh huh, RE/100 mkIII got pushed back to January. I guess they didn't want to waste the resources on it with RG WZC and PG Unicorn coming out this month. You realize that saying that basically gave them carte blanche to flip the switch on the G-Falcon Web Exclusive.
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Dec 16, 2014 06:12
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BlitzBlast posted:Oh huh, RE/100 mkIII got pushed back to January. I guess they didn't want to waste the resources on it with RG WZC and PG Unicorn coming out this month. They were pushing out colour display models of the RG-WZC months ago, so that's not really as big a deal.
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Dec 16, 2014 06:14
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And said display models were decal-less because those sheets hadn't been designed/printed out yet.
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Dec 16, 2014 06:28
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PoptartsNinja posted:Psyco XLR project Day, uh... I forget? Holy moley that's great. The build burning has wicked articulation on the ankles. I wish all kits had it 
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Dec 16, 2014 13:24
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The Build Burning on the whole has excellent articulation and posing (I think I saw a photo of someone who was able to pose it into a one-armed handstand??). I'm a big fan of the way it's wrist joints are articulated too.
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Dec 16, 2014 13:34
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Cat Machine posted:The Build Burning on the whole has excellent articulation and posing (I think I saw a photo of someone who was able to pose it into a one-armed handstand??). I'm a big fan of the way it's wrist joints are articulated too. How does it compare to the 00Q, which is probably the best-articulated HG I've done? It has somewhat double-jointed wrists, but nowhere near enough to handstands, but the torso has a point in the middle of it that allows it that much more. Asking since I'd like to do a custom kitbash and I'd like a good range of articulation, and cool legs. I quite like the 00Q legs but Build Burning has those nice thusters on the back, and I think nicer feet and ankle skirts to hide the PCs. Edit: Although the 00 and 00Q have the points either side of the knees, so the kneepad isn't a fixed part of the lower leg, which I also like. BizarroAzrael fucked around with this message at 14:02 on Dec 16, 2014 |
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Dec 16, 2014 13:58
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It has the exact same polycap in the torso you're thinking of and better everything else. Literally the only HG more articulated is 00, and that's just because of design.
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Dec 16, 2014 14:11
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(you should really be listening to this in the background while you read this post: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21OCh6Znel4) He's a veteran ground-type with an eye for justice, his feet on the streets, and one hand on his Heat Hawk. He's a new model fresh from Zimmad, with a chip on his shoulder as big as his experimental beam bazooka. This summer, these two suits... are getting mobile on crime. Zaku Morris II and Rick Dominguez are... ZEEKS Thursdays at 9/8 Central on Zabi TV
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Dec 16, 2014 15:49
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BlitzBlast posted:It has the exact same polycap in the torso you're thinking of and better everything else. Literally the only HG more articulated is 00, and that's just because of design. Even then, I've built both and although the 00 is more flexible, the BB has more points of articulation, if you get my meaning. Like, the points that the 00 is articulated at can move more, but the BB has more of those points. Hell, the BB's torso actually opens into three separate pieces from the back, like shoulder blades.
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Dec 16, 2014 16:40
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I know at least one person here can appreciate what I've been working on recently. I used the the stickers for the solar panels, but none other than those. Every time I build an HG I think to myself, 'ok this will be a quick project since it's small and doesn't have that many parts.' Haha nope, all the detail painting I end up doing takes almost as long as the rest of the painting/ assembly by itself. I think they turned out pretty good, but the GX panel stickers seem to want to lift off, as the upper right one shows here:  Overall I'm quite pleased, though the GX's purple ended up being really purple, rather than the dark bluish-purple I was going for. Makes it more unique though.
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Dec 16, 2014 16:53
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MJP posted:(you should really be listening to this in the background while you read this post: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=21OCh6Znel4) How do you like the Dom?
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Dec 16, 2014 17:12
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Anonymous Robot posted:How do you like the Dom? Fun as hell to build. It feels very dense in the hand. Just be careful with the upper arm, though - it's held in with just two pegs and snapped one clean off. I gotta give it another superglue treatment to fix it, likely by gluing the square-shaped retaining inner part into the arm itself. Hell, it's a Dom. There's something about this bad boy that's just so cool. There are seams, though. The tops of the shoulders, the spherical upper arms, the beam bazooka and normal bazooka all have present seams. They're basic to fix, it's just the beam bazooka is one giant piece. Standard seam filling will do you just fine. I did some fancypants detailing that I posted in the thread, scroll back and you'll see my posts with photos/album links. The beam bazooka was done with Alclad and Tamiya clear paints for those pipes. Only trouble is getting it. Thanks to a certain show it seems that stock has gone down and prices slightly up. I got mine from Amazon, a Japan seller named Toy Shop Japan Hobbyone. They're out of Rick Doms presently, so get in with your preferred JP reseller to get in on a backorder. Edit: MGs are wonderful. http://imgur.com/a/vCC0H
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Dec 16, 2014 17:24
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Today I learned that it's possible to build a MG V-Gundam with the cross-piece on the waist (F35) the wrong way around. Normally, parts with those flashes only really fit one way; this one fits quite happily both ways around. The only "symptom" was the hardpoints on the hips being the wrong way around for the VSBRs, which I never bothered with. In entirely unrelated news, the torso of my MG V-Gundam is firmly attached to the waist for the first time in the nine months since I completed building it.
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Dec 16, 2014 17:52
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Look at what you've turned me into. Look
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Dec 16, 2014 18:48
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Never heard of K4 until now, but apparently they do Gundam selections. How's their variety compared to Vallejo or Tamiya?
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Dec 16, 2014 20:00
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They're a new company, they specialize in rust/weathering effects -> http://inscale.org/public/?p=1049 The paints handle very similarly to vallejo airs, very little dilution needed. Also they straight up claim their brand thinner is just water with isoprop-alcohol, you can just get a gallon at an auto paints shop. There's 4 sets, I've got the first 2, I'll give out my impressions when the other 2 arrive. ah jeez they're still working on a webpage https://www.k4weathering.cl Ka0 fucked around with this message at 20:35 on Dec 16, 2014 |
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Dec 16, 2014 20:27
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Cat Machine posted:The Build Burning on the whole has excellent articulation and posing (I think I saw a photo of someone who was able to pose it into a one-armed handstand??). I'm a big fan of the way it's wrist joints are articulated too. http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2014/10/hg-1144-build-burning-gundam-review-by.html No handstands, but now I'm convinced that I need to recreate the meditation scene in Empire Strikes Back with the BBG and the God Gundam.
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Dec 16, 2014 20:43
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Oblique Angle posted:I know at least one person here can appreciate what I've been working on recently. Thank you for continuing to spread the gospel of Gundam X.
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Dec 16, 2014 20:47
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I will die before I find reliable (and updated) color conversion charts online between gunze lacquer, tamiya acrylic and vallejo. It's the most infuriating clusterfuck imaginable.
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Dec 17, 2014 04:09
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Well yes, they're three entirely different solvents. I'm not really sure what you were expecting.
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Dec 17, 2014 04:19
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Build Fighters and lucrative employment have done terrible things to me. I just ordered a bunch more HGs (X Maoh, Mega Shiki, R-Gyagya, Reborns, and Gerbera Tetra) for no good reason. And I'm not even drunk. Who would ever have suspected that a show designed to sell cool rear end gunpla to manchildren would succeed in selling cool rear end gunpla to this manchild?
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Dec 17, 2014 09:07
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After todays episode you'll end up buying yet another BF gunpla so ready yourself
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Dec 17, 2014 11:38
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Warmachine posted:No handstands, but now I'm convinced that I need to recreate the meditation scene in Empire Strikes Back with the BBG and the God Gundam.
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Dec 17, 2014 13:38
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chumbler posted:Build Fighters and lucrative employment have done terrible things to me. I just ordered a bunch more HGs (X Maoh, Mega Shiki, R-Gyagya, Reborns, and Gerbera Tetra) for no good reason. And I'm not even drunk. Who would ever have suspected that a show designed to sell cool rear end gunpla to manchildren would succeed in selling cool rear end gunpla to this manchild? A month ago I couldn't tell a genoace from a gelgoog. Now I can SING the goddamn intro to AGE flit arc. Goddamn build fighters.
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Dec 17, 2014 13:44
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Working with the UC Project GP-03 was actually pretty fun, so out of curiosity I dug out my Rampage Ghost Raftcranz/Laftcrunz/whatever the gently caress it's called to see how it compared. Holy poo poo it has joints and incorporates the chest cannon and transformable weapon gimmicks. 
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Dec 17, 2014 13:48
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I have files and I have sandpaper and I dislike both of them. What's a nice convenient way of sanding? Sanding sticks? What brand? I desire to spend money to make sanding convenient.
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Dec 17, 2014 16:26
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signalnoise posted:I have files and I have sandpaper and I dislike both of them. What's a nice convenient way of sanding? Sanding sticks? What brand? I desire to spend money to make sanding convenient.
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Dec 17, 2014 16:31
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signalnoise posted:I have files and I have sandpaper and I dislike both of them. What's a nice convenient way of sanding? Sanding sticks? What brand? I desire to spend money to make sanding convenient. Sanding sticks are just sandpaper on a file, so they're not going to make you like sanding any more than you do. It's just tedious. I make my own sanding sticks by gluing sandpaper onto popsicle sticks, but for really high grit polishing sticks I some generic Squadron Tools knockoff from the local Hobbytown.
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Dec 17, 2014 16:56
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Spreading of sanding, would a high grit paper work for removing discoloration left by sprues? I shave the sprue until it is smooth and level with the surrounding areas of a piece, but it still leaves behind a mark that is a few shades darker than the base color.
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Dec 17, 2014 17:14
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Kibner posted:Spreading of sanding, would a high grit paper work for removing discoloration left by sprues? The discoloration goes downwards into the plastic, so no. The best way is to leave a lot of nub and slowly sand all the nub away until smooth and then use polishing paper, but that takes forever.
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Dec 17, 2014 17:23
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:The discoloration goes downwards into the plastic, so no. The best way is to leave a lot of nub and slowly sand all the nub away until smooth and then use polishing paper, but that takes forever. Welp. I have already been leaving a lot of nub and using a knife to slowly shave away. Guess I will sand them down for my MG and limited edition kits, and do my normal thing for HG.
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Dec 17, 2014 17:28
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signalnoise posted:I have files and I have sandpaper and I dislike both of them. What's a nice convenient way of sanding? Sanding sticks? What brand? I desire to spend money to make sanding convenient. I like Squadron sanding sticks. Reason being that if you use a popsicle stick, it has no flex to it. If you're sanding a nub on a curved part with an inflexible popsicle stick, you now have a flattened section on that part. Squadron sticks are slightly foamy, so you have a margin of error - they tend towards flat, so it's not perfect, but it works. Some guy on a Philippine site came up with the idea of using large squares of poster mounting foam, cut into strips with sandpaper glued on, which is as close as I could see working to equate the flex and give of Squadron sticks. I would love it if there was a cheaper DIY alternative - I've tried clean foam meat trays from the butcher shop, fun foam/craft foam from the kids craft aisle at Michael's, and small poster mounting dots - none work all that well. To be honest, thus far the best part has just been the pressure of a finger. You get enough pressure on the nub as you sand but it doesn't flatten out once you reach the surface. Kibner posted:Welp. I have already been leaving a lot of nub and using a knife to slowly shave away. Curved blades do a great job, but to be honest, I'm starting to reach the conclusion that fresh, sharp blades are the real key here. I've tried Xacto #10 curved blades, standard #11s, Tamiya curved blades, and #12 mini curved blades. So far, my highly unscientific findings are that any fresh curved blade does a better job than a fresh #11 blade, but I'm going to do a round-robin of fresh blades of each type one of these days to see what works best. MJP fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Dec 17, 2014 |
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Dec 17, 2014 17:42
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Kibner posted:Welp. I have already been leaving a lot of nub and using a knife to slowly shave away. A knife edge will put more stress on the plastic than sandpaper, especially fine sandpaper. A fresh blade as mentioned by MJP would work better because it is not going to have micro-chipping or a rolled edge from use and therefore pass through the plastic with a minimum of force. If you want to leave no marks sand down the last bit using 2000 grit paper. I hope you are looking forward to about half an hour of sanding per nub. 
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Dec 17, 2014 18:38
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AVeryLargeRadish posted:A knife edge will put more stress on the plastic than sandpaper, especially fine sandpaper. A fresh blade as mentioned by MJP would work better because it is not going to have micro-chipping or a rolled edge from use and therefore pass through the plastic with a minimum of force. If you want to leave no marks sand down the last bit using 2000 grit paper. I hope you are looking forward to about half an hour of sanding per nub. For what it's worth, the fresh curved blade, once you've removed excess nub with either sprue cutters or shaving upwards away from the part, doesn't cut fully flush with the surface of the part. The pitch of the actual cutting edge means you're going to leave fractional amounts behind. Progressive wet sanding does the trick - starting from a medium or fine grit Squadron stick (I think Squadron medium is 800, fine is 1000, but I'm not certain) dipped in warm water with excess shaken off, you then use finer grits to finish it off. At best you get a very slight modest discolored plastic with no stress marks. It'll still show a tiny amount if you use a matte or flat topcoat but it's still a very smooth surface. Casual observers might overlook it and potato-quality cameras don't see it. If you paint it's a non-issue, but I'm not yet at the point where I want to paint an entire kit. I just try to get away with color-matching parts that had seams filled. I have yet to straight-build a kit with perfectly removed nubs. Most nub visibility is all about how the kit is engineered, really - the Miss Sazabi is very good about this; few properly-removed nubs, if any, are visible. It's also easier to get away with nub removal on lighter colors. The Rick Dom has nubs on the backs of the legs, and the removal wasn't 100% perfect. On the photo below (click through to maximum resolution), take a look at the left leg. The top-left and bottom-right nubs are darn near perfect. On the right leg, the bottom nubs seem to be okay but less good than those. The top of the right leg and bottom-left of the left leg are in my opinion very obviously not as good as the pros could get, but I'm no pro.  Speaking of Miss Sazabis, what a fun build that was, and it looks really nice. It's feminine without being girly. The legs bring things together nicely; they have a bit of curve which just works well, and the color scheme is basically Aila's darn near perfectly captured. I didn't realize how Attack on Titan this pose was until afterwards, but I couldn't not include all the weapons.     Me + pistons = MUST METAL and I put down some Mr. Metallic Color gold. Didn't prime it and was worried that the paint would rub off, a la the Rick Dom inner frame parts, but maybe it's just that plastic. The paint stayed on just fine. Backpack thrusters are Mr. Metallic Color stainless steel, buffed until a bit shinier. All other thrusters are Alclad Dark Aluminum. Seams were filled on the lower rear legs, undersides of the shoulders, and backpack thrusters. I don't know if the Miss Sazabi is a new mold but it's a refreshingly low amount of seams to fill after the Rick Dom bazookas. The gold pistons got the topcoat, the backpack thrusters did not. Despite matte topcoat, Mr. Metallic Color gold still keeps a very nice tone and luster to it.
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Dec 17, 2014 19:17
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Wowee I just did my first airbrushing. I hadn't pushed the needle all the way in at first and I haven't got the hang of where the paint goes relative to my aiming yet and distance and all that stuff, but I'm low psi and having a good time. Primed all the dark blue bits of the GM Sniper II and only have to strip and redo 2 parts, the bit of the shield and part of the backpack because I hadn't secured them properly. I'll probably give everything another light coat when I redo them but it's a lot of fun I guess if you like spraying stuff all in the air! Cleaning was a breeze too, just have to be thorough.
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Dec 17, 2014 22:02
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I'm scared of trying lacquers after finishing up with acrylics. I wonder if the strong dilutions will wear away the 0 ring seal on the front of the airbrush.
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Dec 17, 2014 22:25
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Ka0 posted:I'm scared of trying lacquers after finishing up with acrylics. I wonder if the strong dilutions will wear away the 0 ring seal on the front of the airbrush. If they do, replacements are cheap!
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Dec 17, 2014 22:48
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Ka0 posted:I'm scared of trying lacquers after finishing up with acrylics. I wonder if the strong dilutions will wear away the 0 ring seal on the front of the airbrush. I've used Alclad lacquers plenty of times, and as long as you clean your airbrush with the appropriate cleaner (I tried normal Tamiya lacquer thinner - do not do this, use airbrush cleaner) you will be just fine.
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Dec 17, 2014 23:23
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