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I have the Avanti compressor from Harbor Freight and it does a good job. Way easier than rigging up the big compressor.
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Jan 16, 2022 05:28
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SnakesRevenge posted:I have the Avanti compressor from Harbor Freight and it does a good job. Way easier than rigging up the big compressor. Good to know, thanks. Is there good 'starter kit' for modeler paints? I live in Bumfuck, Kentucky so I have to order anything that can't be gotten at the Dollar Store and want to do it in one go.
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Jan 16, 2022 06:40
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I built the new 86 Reginleif. It's a pretty interesting design, if a bit more conventional than the Juggernaut. The non-Shin models all have two weapons and two pilots in the box, which gives them more flexibility than the basic kits last time, but in exchange they lose the ammo loading gimmick and the bonus figure. Also, way more stickers. Too many stickers. Still, it's a fun kit.
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Jan 16, 2022 07:29
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Made a big 'ol fuckup on my first Gunpla, the RG Exia, last week. It's a real bummer, I haven't worked on it since. The peg on the upper arm was not supposed to be shaved off as it is on the left. I'm supposed to hook a plastic ribbon over it and then fit a small fastener over it. Any thoughts on what to do about it? I found a Reddit post of someone who made the same mistake and people talked about making a replacement peg out of a section of the runner. I tried starting that. Getting it small enough to fit through the fastener will take some work. After that, there's the mater of keeping it at the right angle. Once you put the ribbon on, it presses the arm down just a little.
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Jan 16, 2022 08:52
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Dr Christmas posted:Made a big 'ol fuckup on my first Gunpla, the RG Exia, last week. It's a real bummer, I haven't worked on it since. If you don't mind it being permanent, you could superglue the ribbon and the little white piece that slots on to that peg to the arm. Bit of a delicate job but it'd be tough to tell the difference in the end.
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Jan 16, 2022 09:02
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Yeah, you are better off gluing it down. You can also use a very small electronics screw.
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Jan 16, 2022 14:45
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Finally got around to finishing a diorama display for an RG RX-78-2 I finished 6 months ago. Not perfect as I'm still getting used to air brushing for the diorama. Now to finish off the Morstorm Iron Man I'm building, and then moving onto the PG Unleashed RX-78-2. 
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Jan 16, 2022 15:10
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sarujin_nz posted:Finally got around to finishing a diorama display for an RG RX-78-2 I finished 6 months ago. Not perfect as I'm still getting used to air brushing for the diorama. This is fantastic.
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Jan 16, 2022 20:35
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Dr Christmas posted:Made a big 'ol fuckup on my first Gunpla, the RG Exia, last week. It's a real bummer, I haven't worked on it since. Take a thicker part of the runner than that piece. Cut out a piece that's a bit longer than it needs to be. Use pliers to hold it level on your table and use an xacto knife to shave it cutting downward in to a square piece (so cutting downward on four sides). Then slowly shave one end of that to be the appropriate angle matching the other when held to the nub. Cut the other end to length, then bevel it by shaving each side slightly at the non-attached end. You'll likely want to use a bit of coarse sandpaper on the nub to roughen it, as well as the side you're going to glue to it. Use fast drying superglue/plastic glue sparingly to attach it, with tweezers to hold it so you don't get the glue on yourself. Or, for even better alignment, build up a stack of cardboard, index cards, whatever, to the appropriate height so that you can tape or hotglue just a bit of your new nub piece to it with it sticking out, then push the arm in to it instead of trying to hold the nub in place at the correct angle as it dries. That's what I would do personally. It sounds like a lot of work but it should only take a few minutes to make the piece. And if you screw up, well it's runner so just try again. Alternatively, if you just keep a pile of the bits you clip off as you go and then dispose of them all at once like I do, you may be able to find the piece you clipped off (or if it's still on that runner). Let it dry for at least a couple of hours so that it has more strength afterwards.
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Jan 16, 2022 20:54
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You are probably the 3rd person I have encountered in the last two weeks that hosed up that peg/ribbon part. The other two are just going to glue it and be done with it.
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Jan 16, 2022 23:33
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:This is fantastic. Base is a cheap one I found on AliExpress. I haven't ever done much Diorama work (besides as a teen building model railway). Thought it was a good start as if I stuff up the base it doesn't affect the Gundam. Still need to work on some of my rust and weathering marks, they are a bit off. Also need to improve my posing. I don't know what it is, but I feel I can never get a pose to look correct versus everything I see online. I've got an Iwata airbrush ordered that should help and be better than my cheap current one, as I've been struggling on how to clean it. Worked out that the stainless brushes on a stainless brush are thin enough that they can be used to clean the nozzle easily.
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Jan 17, 2022 03:31
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Marsupial Ape posted:Good to know, thanks. The first question is what kind of paint do you want to use. There's several different types of model paints and they don't usually interact well so you're better off picking a single brand and sticking with it. In broad categories: Lacquer - Stinky, volatile, requires serious ventilation. Probably not pet safe. Sprays like a dream and is tough as nails. Acrylic (alcohol-based) - Requires less ventilation, good adhesion. Acrylic (water-based) - Requires least ventilation, safest. Has adhesion and scratch resistance issues. Can be difficult to spray. Enamels - Smells like your grandaddy's shed, harder to work with. Good for gloss finishes but usually saved for the weathering layer. For a starting out acrylics are probably the easiest to work with and the lowest impact. You may be able to find a few non-branded "starter kits" but you're better off buying the specific paints you need piecemeal from a reputable brand. - Tamiya acrylics are cheap, work well and are widely available. They're incompatible with their enamel line which uses the same naming structure so be careful which you buy. - Mr. Hobby recently started a Gundam specific line of their Aqueous Hobby Color acrylics if you can find them. They also do the Gundam Color lacquers so be careful. - Vallejo's Mecha Color line is basically a non-branded Gunpla paint line but you have to read between the lines a little for the paint matches.
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Jan 17, 2022 06:54
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Its so hosed up that we'll probably never get a kit of this guy
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Jan 17, 2022 19:02
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Dr Christmas posted:Made a big 'ol fuckup on my first Gunpla, the RG Exia, last week. It's a real bummer, I haven't worked on it since. I made the exact same mistake. I think almost everyone does.
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Jan 17, 2022 19:19
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Dr Christmas posted:Made a big 'ol fuckup on my first Gunpla, the RG Exia, last week. It's a real bummer, I haven't worked on it since. Ive got an RG Sazabi I've held off on starting, part procrastination, part I keep hearing about some shoulder joint issue where a number of people have sheared it off. I nearly cut off a tab like that on a different kit and I was stressed but luckily it wasn't completely sheared off and everything worked out thankfully. Fingers crossed glue works for you!
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Jan 17, 2022 20:01
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Glue usually solves problems as long as your problem isn't a major load bearing part of the kit. Break a piece of armor in half or cut off a peg on it? Eh. Completely snap off a critical part of a elbow/knee/shoulder/hip assembly yeah that's gonna need reinforcement. That Sazabi issue is mostly about being aware that the part is indexed and making sure it is FULLY snapped in. If the assembly isn't together good any motion puts more strain on it than it can handle and it breaks completely.
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Jan 17, 2022 20:30
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MonsieurChoc posted:I made the exact same mistake. I think almost everyone does. I'd like to add my name to the chorus of voices that also did this.
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Jan 17, 2022 21:53
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I have it ready for when I'm done the MG Freedom 2.0 (good kit aside from the hip railguns being a bit jank), so thank you for bringing that up.
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Jan 18, 2022 00:41
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I managed to avoid it on my RG Exia but it was only thanks to those who boldly went before me and snipped the tab off that I was reminded of it.
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Jan 18, 2022 04:07
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I never did that to an RG Exia because I've never built one. I have, however, done it to a Zoids Godos. I'm pretty sure that every modeler, at least once in their career, accidentally snips something that is not to be snipped.
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Jan 18, 2022 04:44
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Suzaku posted:I never did that to an RG Exia because I've never built one. I didn't do it to my RG Exia  I learned my lesson snipping a peg off the back of one of the legs on my RG Freedom Gundam and had to glue the relevant piece in place  .
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Jan 18, 2022 05:23
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The only peg-snip I can recall offhand was when I shaved the tab off of the HG Guntank's cockpit hatch and had to glue it in place. Fortunately it's hardly the most detailed or valuable kit in the world, but it still made me feel pretty silly to make an unforced error like that.
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Jan 18, 2022 06:56
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Now that I'm done the Freedom's wings I have to give the guy who snapped the box photos some credit, because getting one that implied you could have it standing and in a natural pose with them in could not have been easy. Probably shouldn't be telling you to put them in before you have the stand together.
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Jan 18, 2022 06:58
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My greatest shame is breaking the hip joint to a 1/72 VF-25 Valkyrie. Yes, one of the transforming kits. I was checking rotation, it was a bit tight, and the pin sheared off. FML.
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Jan 18, 2022 07:57
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My worst gunpla mistake was using a hairdryer to try and remove frosting on a matte topcoat. My RG Unicorn melted...
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Jan 18, 2022 15:28
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Marx Headroom posted:My worst gunpla mistake was using a hairdryer to try and remove frosting on a matte topcoat. My RG Unicorn melted... https://video.twimg.com/ext_tw_video/1459920064413528075/pu/vid/540x270/l8yuDWSk612ItBaA.mp4
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Jan 18, 2022 17:23
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I cut the barrel off of one of Jupitive's arm cannons because I was incredibly sleep-deprived and I thought it was a sprue.
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Jan 18, 2022 22:21
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Speaking of living in bumfuck nowhere, are there any recommended websites for ordering paints? The only hobby shop in my town went out of business during the lockdowns, and ordering on Amazon has been hit and miss. I'm primarily using water based acrylic and hand painting (Model Master and Citadel where all that my shop carried).
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Jan 18, 2022 22:21
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Space Opera posted:Speaking of living in bumfuck nowhere, are there any recommended websites for ordering paints? The only hobby shop in my town went out of business during the lockdowns, and ordering on Amazon has been hit and miss. I'm primarily using water based acrylic and hand painting (Model Master and Citadel where all that my shop carried). If you're in the states then tamiyaUSA has been great for me barring it's just Tamiya and some times they're out of stock for a few months of some paint. Newtype.us is good for pain orders too.
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Jan 18, 2022 22:45
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ShallNoiseUpon posted:I'd like to add my name to the chorus of voices that also did this. Same here, but Bluefin customer support are good folk, and are sending me spares!
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Jan 18, 2022 23:34
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Yeah, I've had good experiences ordering paint from newtype, as well as getting turbodork stuff directly from turbodork, if you want their colorshifting or metallic paints (which i like a lot). I also ordered a bunch of paints from megahobby.com a while back and it was good too.
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Jan 18, 2022 23:36
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Thanks, I'll give those a shot
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Jan 19, 2022 01:17
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So, today I found out this exists: https://sidesevenexports.com/collections/mega-size/products/1-48-rx-78f00-gundam-gundam-factory-yokohama
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Jan 19, 2022 03:21
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Currently putting together a gunpla for the first time in a long time. I'm having a good results using nanoglass nail files smoothing out nub marks. Inevitably, though, I am putting scratches and mars in the plastic. What can I use to buff those out? poo poo like this is why I am considering jumping straight into painting. Oh, and it's a Jesta, btw.
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Jan 19, 2022 04:13
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Suzaku posted:So, today I found out this exists: It's such a simple thing, but I really like the airplane-style running lights in the knees.
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Jan 19, 2022 04:28
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Neddy Seagoon posted:It's such a simple thing, but I really like the airplane-style running lights in the knees. They're in the shoulders too! 
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Jan 19, 2022 04:37
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Bloody Pom posted:They're in the shoulders too! Oh yeah, they are too  . I missed them in the kibble. It's a really nice "real-world" touch that I'm surprised nobody's done before. Closest I've seen is the Patlabors being street-legal vehicles with license plates and turn signals.
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Jan 19, 2022 04:45
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Suzaku posted:So, today I found out this exists: Fuuuuck, I don't need this, I don't need this, I don't need this. I hope they do a PG unleashed version of the F00.
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Jan 19, 2022 05:54
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Space Opera posted:Thanks, I'll give those a shot But wait ! The best site for browsing and ordering paints is actually ScaleHobbyist.com. Want to compare the 3 different purples in the MechaColor line ? Easy. Which come in 17mm and which in 60mm bottles ? Another click. They have 571 different browns in the catalog, 450 Tans; 70 oils, 780 lacquers, it goes on. You can drill down to whatever you're looking for. They also have a good collection of tools, historical scale models, and stuff for dioramas. https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/browse.php?s=3&t=1&u=1
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Jan 19, 2022 06:08
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Puddin posted:Fuuuuck, I don't need this, I don't need this, I don't need this. On the one hand, I didn't need it either. On the other hand, Gundam Factory Yokohama is closing at the end of March so this is pretty much a rare kit of a rare kit. And I could justify the order by adding a few AGE MGs and a Hardgraph set I'd had my eye on.
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Jan 19, 2022 06:56
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