Gunpla/Plamo Thread Mk.IV

The Something Awful Forums > The Finer Arts > VEGETA > Gunpla/Plamo Thread Mk.IV

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Midjack posted:

A P95 rated respirator cartridge will filter 95% of airborne particles bigger than some size (1 micron I think) and is oil-proof (will not degrade when exposed to petroleum vapors). I suggest you get a P100 + organic vapor cartridge for that mask (3M part 60921) which as a bonus will also filter out farts.

When you put the mask on check that you have a good fit by covering the intakes with your hands and breathing in (you shouldn't feel any air coming in through the seal around your mouth) and then cover the exhaust and breathe out gently (again, no air should escape the seal around your mouth and nose). I have a big nose and sometimes have to fuss with masks to get them to seal on exhaust.

EDIT: looking closer at the description, that says it has organic vapor cartridges and a separate particle filter that straps on over them. You are probably OK out of the box with that mask but you can get 1-piece replacement cartridges that do both.

As a rebuttal, a P100 isn't required over a P95 unless you're doing poo poo like playing with asbestos. The important part of either mask is the organic vapor cartridge (will be marked OV and have a black band) which both have and filters out the solvents used in the paint. Either will work fine and it comes to personal preference on one-piece vs two-piece filters. I prefer the two-piece (like the linked mask) because if I decide to use the same mask while cutting wood or something, I only need to replace the incredibly cheep particulate filter that is now clogged with sawdust instead of both the particulate and the more expensive OV filter.

TL;DR - either filter is fine, get whatever you want.

Edit: Deja vu, the two of us had this same discussion almost a year ago.

Cat Hatter fucked around with this message at 09:27 on Jan 14, 2015

# ¿ Jan 14, 2015 09:23

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 21:13

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Hijo Del Helmsley posted:

Folks, I need some inspiration/help.

My end goal is to have the RG line entirely on my display shelf. The shelf can fit it, as long as I work out some way to make a second tier, so I can have two rows.

But what could I use as that riser to make the second tier? I know buying actual risers would be a ripoff for what I want, but I'm drawing a blank on what I could use.

You can see the "random things from the hardware store" approach I used to make shelves in this picture:

Just replace the plexiglass with a 1x6 painted/stained whatever color you want (to make them cheaper and easier to work with) and bolt a second set of angle braces to the first set to make a "C" shape to make them free-standing.

...assuming you don't mind the industrial look.

# ¿ Mar 24, 2015 22:14

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Bimmi posted:

Which RX-78 is this? I can't identify it at all.

e: I mean the kit itself.

1/48 Mega Size based on the Real Type color scheme and the paint available during the Tamiya shortage the U.S. had a while back. At first I'd used a vaguely greenish tan I ended up hating, the green wasn't dark enough (thing uses a ton of paint), and I felt the blue made it look like when a printer runs out of one color of ink. Painting over the tan with metallic silver and darkening up the green really helped though and now I really like it (after about a year of it sitting on my desk being a disappointment).

# ¿ Mar 25, 2015 06:53

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Tenzarin posted:

Is it possible to future and flat coat the same day? I know future needs like a day to cure, just wondering what can go wrong.

You can also mix Tamiya X-21 Flat Base into your Future to make Future into a flat topcoat.

# ¿ Apr 11, 2015 06:16

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Colon Semicolon posted:

what's a not dog-poo poo place to get model kits in Georgia? we used to have a store here in town, but the owner decided to only do the absolute most popular stock, so they only keep boring comics in now.

The Hobbytown USA in Kennesaw stocks them, but I only get supplies from them because their gunpla is kind of expensive.

# ¿ May 15, 2015 18:19

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

What do you guys consider the minimum amount of time to wait for Tamiya paint to dry before putting tape over it to lay down another color?

# ¿ Jun 1, 2015 03:16

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

signalnoise posted:

For anyone who sprays their gundam parts with paint, what do you use to hold your alligator clips up while your parts dry?

Bamboo skewers. They come in a big bag at the grocery store for a dollar or two.

# ¿ Aug 24, 2015 18:40

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Shinjobi posted:

What are some recommendations for matte spray? Looking at a few blogs I see Japanese brands, and I'm not sure I can track those down locally.

I use Future mixed with Tamiya flat base. It self levels and is airbrush compatible.

# ¿ Oct 6, 2015 20:54

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Midjack posted:

And takes FOREVER to cure. I used the ratios BB reposted above and after a week of curing I was still scratching the paint off when parts lightly brushed each other.

This is not consistent with my experience.

# ¿ Oct 7, 2015 05:07

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Lemon Curdistan posted:

I got all excited at the prospect of there being a cheap actual airbrush + compressor combo on Amazon, and then I looked at the price where I am:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Airbrush-VC16-B22-Airbrushing-KIT-VC16-Compressor-/dp/B0149I1PFC/

Literally three times the price.

They should have made it red.

# ¿ Oct 30, 2015 18:57

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

My wife built an F2000 and I was unimpressed by its posability and its ability to not have random bits fall off.

We both like the design though.

# ¿ Feb 13, 2016 08:19

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

MJP posted:

That's what she said

Back on topic: After trying out just airbrushing on orange pearl enamel on the Qubeley accent parts, it looks about a billion times better. Only thing is that I can't for the life of me cut off excess masking fluid with an Xacto knife once it dries. The raised edges don't offer any bulwark at all.

Anyone got masking pointers? Am I looking at just Tamiya tape and cutting that, with a big degree of hope?

I used masking fluid a while back and even when I finally got it off, it lifted some paint that had spent a month curing before I masked it. Tape 4 lyfe.

# ¿ Feb 17, 2016 23:08

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Revitalized posted:

So if I want to get into painting my models decently, I'm going to have to get an airbrush and compressor it seems? Which from my first glance at Amazon, looks like it'll cost like $200 to $300?

Also while I'm in the middle of contemplating life choices, how are those cool city dioramas made? Like a war torn office building or urban backdrop for a gunpla?

Don't know if this helps, but if you already have an air compressor in your garage designed for running air ratchets and poo poo you can hook an airbrush up to that. When I decided to get my feet wet airbrushing, I hooked a $20 dual-action Harbor Freight airbrush to my 8 gallon oiled shop compressor with the intention of upgrading down the road (or at least getting a water/oil filter) but the setup has worked well enough I just haven't bothered over the past few years.

# ¿ Feb 28, 2016 20:33

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

MJP posted:

Reverse washes are your friend!

1) Paint the part in the color of the raised details - it'll be what you see at the end.
2) Topcoat with Future or lacquer gloss clear coat, allow to dry overnight
3) Airbrush the color of the recessed details BUT YOU MUST MUST MUST USE AN ENAMEL PAINT
4) Wait 5 minutes
5) Take some Ronsonol or other turpenoid lighter fluid and dip a Q-tip in it just to moisten it
6) Gently rub off the raised detail parts
7) Marvel in the glory

It's really not difficult, it just requires some fluids.

I recommend Zippo fluid over Ronsonol because the fumes are less severe, but they both work and you should probably be wearing a respirator anyway.

# ¿ Mar 12, 2016 04:04

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

MJP posted:

Just have a candle nearby to let nature naturally vaporize the fumes

(please don't do this)

I thought Zippo wasn't turpenoid though?

Its what is used in this guide:

Neurolimal posted:

Yeah, once you get the materials it really is the easiest way to color raised/embedded details. This site has a detailed explanation alongside pics of the process and end-result.

The site has a bunch of other tutorials as well, including one for wear/rust that would be very handy for the above Hygogg.

I ended up letting my enamel cure for too long (I had followed the linked guide but had poo poo to do so I didn't get back to it imediately after the 12-24 hours they recommend) and it was a huge pain in the rear end to remove so I'd definitely get the q-tips and lighter fluid out sooner rather than later.

Also apparently Zippo bought Ronson?

# ¿ Mar 12, 2016 05:21

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

BlitzBlast posted:

Whoever they've got doing summaries on Gundam Planet has a whole lot of freedom.

I know this isn't the point, but ninety five goddamned dollars? You could get a White Ogre, some grey paint, and an airbrush for that much money.

...forgot the White Ogre doesn't have high-mobility calves/backpack. SHIN MATSUNAGA CUSTOM, paint, and a lesser airbrush?

# ¿ Mar 21, 2016 22:31

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

mango sentinel posted:

Which do you guys think is a better use of money: PG Zaku II or Mega Size Zaku II?

I have a Mega Size Gundam and my wife has a Mega Size Zaku II. The parts separation and poseability are pretty bad, but they acknowledge how big they are and click into a pose (as in "the only pose you can put them in") very well. If you plan on painting it anyway, I'd rather have a Mega Size than an old super fiddly Perfect Grade.

# ¿ Apr 19, 2016 18:27

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

The_Rob posted:

So I bought the MG red Astray today, and I just got nervous because I realized that it has Dry transfers. Is there anything I should make sure I do or don't do so I don't gently caress those up to bad?

Use scotch tape to tape the decal in place.
Use a hard blunt object to press the decal on (I used the slightly rounded back to my hobby knife).
Slowly remove one edge of the tape while keeping the other edge attached to act as a hinge.
If everything didn't transfer, stick it back down and try harder.

Make sure you don't put tape over a previously transferred decal or it will pull it off.

# ¿ Apr 25, 2016 22:30

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Speaking of gunpla distributors, Gundam Store and More finally got restocked. I bought a RG AEUG Mk-II Gundam and my wife bought a HG Origin Ortega Zaku II. Now that we've moved back to Michigan, we decided to drive out to go pick them up in person (they pull orders same-day but didn't share this information until I asked a few days later).

When we got there the guy asked if we wanted to go shopping in the warehouse:

I ended up also getting a RG Astray Red Frame and my wife got a RG Wing Gundam Zero.

Michigoons within driving distance of Ann Arbor might also be interested to know that if you go shopping in person they sell gunpla for the yen price printed on the box/100.

# ¿ Jun 23, 2016 02:21

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

chiasaur11 posted:

I don't know why someone would pick the AEUG version, honestly.

I already have the MG in Titans livery.

# ¿ Aug 6, 2016 21:17

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

If you feel its necessary to get an explosion-proof fan for your DIY spray booth, I fully understand. Nothing turns a girl off faster than you explaining that your horrific scars were caused because you cheaped out while setting up infrastructure for painting scale models of Japanese robots.

However, I'm of the opinion that a $20-$30 bilge blower is sufficient (unless someone shows me one that actually caused an incident). They're not quite as safe, but they're still designed to remove explosive concentrations of gasoline vapors from a bilge so your boat doesn't explode when you go to start it.

If anyone is curious what one of these accidents would look like, here's a slightly :nms:

video of internet lunatic Colin Furze setting a propane leak on fire and then getting his blisters drained:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6FYZFAuhFV4

Somebody fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Oct 21, 2016

# ¿ Oct 21, 2016 23:41

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Matoi Ryuko posted:

I have to change that youtube link to a url, it's not work safe!

Nothing that guy does is safe. (Also, I don't know how YouTube embeds work)

# ¿ Oct 22, 2016 07:12

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

StalkofWheat posted:

Ugh, hate to break it to you, but the RG RX-78 is one of the worst kits I've ever built. It's nearly impossible to pose without at least one piece falling off, and on more than one occasion fell apart on the shelf it was sitting on. It's been consigned to zip lock storage hell.

Counterpoint: I haven't had any trouble with mine*. I keep him in the kneeling position they have printed on the box because I'm unoriginal.

*Having said this, once I get all my stuff out of storage I'm going to find out that it exploded during the move.

# ¿ Oct 27, 2016 08:39

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

I spent election night building most of one leg on my RG Atray Red Frame.

# ¿ Nov 10, 2016 07:21

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Neddy Seagoon posted:

First rule of solving a problem ~~blind~~; Make sure the basics have been covered.

# ¿ Nov 19, 2016 07:14

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Symetrique posted:

Protip: use a surgical scalpel. The blades come sterilized so if you cut yourself you don't need to worry about an infection.

Only if you plan on cutting yourself almost immediately after opening it.

# ¿ Oct 15, 2017 05:33

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Guy Goodbody posted:

The Johnny Ridden Zaku comes with two different leg options

Which confused me, all the art of Johnny's Zaku showed it with the legs on the right. But then I figured it out

Guys I think they're gonna make a RG Shin Matsunaga's Zaku

On the MG it's just a cover that snaps over the left leg design. Has the dual purpose of keeping the inner complexity and maintaining parts commonality with Shin Matsunaga and I think Black Tri Star Zakus.

# ¿ Oct 20, 2017 14:35

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

asterioth posted:

For anyone near Atlanta does want to go there heres what they had today:
Some of the paints, didnt get a pic of the Val metalics/pigments on the back wall

Actual gunpla and related things:

Of course I moved back to Michigan right before they expanded their gunpla selection. Last time I went there they only had about half of one of those aisles and it wasn't as densely packed. I still don't know where I'm going to find Tamiya paint now.

At least now I'm within driving distance to Gundam Store And More! :suicide:

I think the trip I made out there was the last time they were restocked.

# ¿ Oct 31, 2017 18:13

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

I think I might have used pliers to lightly grab behind the links and then pushed them off instead of grabbing the link itself. It was a couple years ago though so I'm not sure I remember correctly.

# ¿ Nov 8, 2017 16:29

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Dom Servo

# ¿ Jan 4, 2018 00:11

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Taintrunner posted:

finally... a weapon to surpass metal gear

About time Sid from Toy Story got into gunpla.

# ¿ Jun 6, 2018 19:34

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

What's the name for when you paint silver onto the back of a clear part to catch the light better? Also, does that work with the MG Unicorn if I plan to glue it into destroy mode so it isn't as fragile as I've heard?

# ¿ Oct 18, 2018 22:17

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Monaghan posted:

I'm not sure of the exact name.
Gluing it wouldn't matter, just try not to get any glue on the psychoframe pieces.

Personally, I wouldn't glue ever piece, just assemble it and glue every piece that seems loose.

That was my plan, I just seem to remember someone back when it first came out saying that it wasn't feasible, but it was so long ago I don't remember if there were some parts that show both sides or if it was an issue with the paint scraping off during transformation.

# ¿ Oct 18, 2018 22:37

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

garfield hentai posted:

...
1) Finally grabbed some of the Pledge floor wax stuff that everyone uses and drat it's a lot nicer than the Vallejo gloss finish I've been using. Super easy to use, effortlessly even coating, smells like a poolside cocktail etc etc. Is there a similarly universally loved matte airbrush finish? The Vallejo stuff is okay enough but if there's a matte Pledge equivalent I'd like to check that out.
...

Pledge floor wax with Tamiya flat base mixed in. Careful though, too much flat in the mix causes clouding when it dries. It's been too long since I've painted anything but I used the guide at http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html back when I had more time.

quote:

1 part flat base to 3 parts Future = very flat
1 part flat base to 10 parts Future = flat
1 part flat base to 15 parts Future = satin

I think I did the very flat to paint my Super Bigass Gundam (that I can't be bothered to take a more recent, not crappy picture):

# ¿ Jan 23, 2019 22:54

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

RillAkBea posted:

...
You mean like this?

This isn't even all of them. And I have to move apartments next month god help me, though it might be a nice opportunity to get some better shelves because I build up that wall piecemeal and it really shows.

I don't know if there is a preferred method for packaging gunpla for travel, but when I moved I individually wrapped them all in aluminum foil so they wouldn't rub against each other. Looked like a storage bin full of burritos.

# ¿ Jan 27, 2019 18:40

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

LibrarianCroaker posted:

Alternatively, you could go full Thunderbolt and take a GM and throw a Gundam head on it

As a US nerd who hasn't done an import before, is there anything I should know before getting hlj/amiami to ship me something?

Only that depending on shipping options you might forget that you even ordered anything by the time it arrives.

Other countries get to deal with annoying import tariffs and inspection delays on model kits.

# ¿ Feb 3, 2019 20:04

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Midjack posted:

There aren’t many worth watching, so don’t feel like you’re missing out.

Didn't someone dress his cat as a Gundam and then review the cat?

# ¿ Apr 20, 2019 19:16

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Pyroclastic posted:

Gonna give this a try.
On a related note, what does everyone do with their dulled blades? I feel they're still way too sharp to put in the garbage. I usually bought Xacto packs that had that included dispenser/sharps container and just tossed it.

I go through a lot of razor blades (I shave with a safety razor) so I basically built a piggy bank out of PVC pipe. Its just shy of a foot of 2" pipe with a cap on one end with a slot cut into it and a removable screw in plug on the other end. It looks like a pipe bomb and is reasonably child proof.

# ¿ May 24, 2019 05:18

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Sam Sanskrit posted:

Water decals are great but for gods sake don't touch them once you soften them for like 24 hours. The softeners make them look great but they also actually melt them to the point that they are basically liquid until they set. Which is cool but a bummer to find out first hand.

To add to this, once you put the softener on they're going to crinkle up. This is normal. Avoid the urge to touch them and they'll flatten back out as they dry.

# ¿ Jun 3, 2019 03:57

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 21:13

Cat Hatter: Oct 24, 2006; Hatters gonna hat.

Veotax posted:

I've always heard people doing a reverse wash on the sleeves parts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ej_DTLtil2I

Basically paint the whole part white (even the parts that are supposed to be black), put on some topcoat and then paint the whole thing black, then use some paint thinner to remove the black from the white parts.

EDIT: Dunno how well this would work hand painting though.

I think when I did this it was acrilic base with enamel over top with no protective coat between. Used Zippo fluid (not generic lighter fluid unless you know for sure what's in it) and my only problem was that I accidentally let everything fully cure for a few weeks before I got back to it. Worked a lot better when I tested it on my paint mule and only let the enamel coat dry for a day.

I still maintain that the Sleeves faction were defeated because their mechanics were too busy intricately pinstriping everything instead of performing maintenance.

# ¿ Aug 26, 2019 18:56

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