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So in the last thread I was building up the Kotobukiya kit of Metal Gear Rex... I finished both legs over the weekend. Started on the head parts but I'm holding off until I finish painting the Liquid Snake figure. I have never painted a 1/100 human before oh god this is difficult if you have shaky hands and like coffee. The smoke grenade launcher caps are just regular old Humbrol bronze enamel to give them some visual pop. This kit is literally all black and brown. It'll look better with decals to break up the monotony, but they're all dry rub. Pray for me, whatever patron saint governs the building of Japanese war machine toys.  I'm probably going to take off that one armor piece and the kneecap with the hatches to progressive-sand them a bit cleaner. I can't unsee the meh nub removal on them. All nubs were solely removed/shaved/cleaned up with a curved Xacto blade, and oh man does that technique work very, very well.  Only thing I don't like, I tried to do a metallic semi-wash on the grilles. It looks bleh. I might just strip the whole thing and deal with it, unless anyone knows a good idea to make grilles look cool. Meanwhile, if you ever want to be humbled in any skills you've built, try to do a no-grade 1/144 15-year old kit with seams that just don't wanna sand together cleanly.  It was four sprues - FOUR - and could probably be built in an hour if you don't try to extra-thin the seams and sand 'em cleanly. I'm contemplating painting the kit in hopes of seam hiding... one leg sanded cleanly on both front and back, the other not so much. It also screams for some kind of detailing and panel lining. Also, gotta love pre-translucent plastic beam sabers.
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Nov 3, 2014 15:40
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Has anyone attempted a fade/gradient with an airbrush? I plan on doing the base of the Mercurius' beam saber red and gradienting a light pink. Is it really just as simple as very thin lines of color, with progressively less back-pressure on the brush?
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Nov 3, 2014 19:36
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Suzaku posted:This. What if I want the core to be red and the edges pinkish? Would I just do the chrome/red candy coat, then do very thin pink layers progressively outwards?
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Nov 3, 2014 21:20
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More Rex progress - I had to stop before attaching the cheek armor and rear ladder piece to take some stuff out of the oven and play League of Legends, but three or four more pieces will complete the head.  The jowl radiators are Alclad pale burnt metal, the blue eyes are just regular clear blue over Tamiya chrome silver, and the pipes are Tamiya chrome silver. I gotta touch that one up. The Alclad isn't even the metallizer, requiring careful attention paid to the gloss base coat and just barely enough metallizer - it's just one of the metallic paint colors over regular ol' white Alclad primer. These pictures don't to justice. That's just one moderate coat of the stuff. Just one coat, with the singular cheapest airbrush/compressor combo, pressure set by dead reckoning alone.  That one ugly nub will be covered up by the jowl armor.  I feel like I should do something to those little circle bits next to the blue eyes - open to thoughts. Maybe a bit of red with Vallejo metallic medium? Or a really sharp light electric/neon green? I dunno, not sure how it'd look with the blue and silver. Don't wanna overdo the raw metals given that the kneecap launchers are bronze. I should also note those little pinkish parts are tiny shiny stickers - they came on the kit already. How nice of Kotobukiya! MJP fucked around with this message at 04:00 on Nov 4, 2014 |
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Nov 4, 2014 03:57
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Am I the only person in the world that likes the look of non-transformed Unicorn more than the transformed one?
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Nov 4, 2014 04:30
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Neddy Seagoon posted:There's some new pictures up for the HGBF Mock, and something about 1/100 scale in there. As far as I can tell, it's an alternate hand for holding 1/100 scale stuff? Also I don't suppose the text below the upper-left picture says "yes, it comes with the target signs" by any chance? I hope they come with the signs, because we need a GM Sniper pulling a William Tell with a sweatdrop-equipped Mock.
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Nov 4, 2014 17:24
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Eff da models, I'm gonna stock up on option parts. Verniers and stuff I'm not too concerned about - yay Alclad - but maybe I can score some minus molds or other photoetch detail-up parts 'n poo poo.
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Nov 4, 2014 19:57
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muike posted:http://schizophonic9.blog103.fc2.com/blog-entry-2373.html#more It's as close as we're ever gonna get to a kit of the Rk-92 from Full Metal Panic. Soon as I get my Grimoire, it's gonna be painted dark brown and tan, and I'm whipping out some decals from a MiG kit that I hung onto.  As to Unicorn psychoframes, if I ever venture into one, Alclad Scarabeus for the inner parts is going down. http://alclad2.com/finishes/prismatic-holomatic/alc-201-scarabeus/ SHIFTA PAINTJOB BRO Meanwhile, the... uh... tail? part of Rex just got finished. Not much to show, but try as I might I can't fully remove the nubs from the launcher hatch cover thingies. I'm worried about breaking off the bits that hold them in, so it's gonna be hoping for flat coat to cover up. I think this weekend I'm gonna have to take the Detolf plunge ;_;
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Nov 5, 2014 03:38
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BlitzBlast posted:I actually tried this! It doesn't work. With Alclad's stuff you gotta use the gloss black base and go light. I've only used the Alclad gloss black base with metallizers to great results, but I've heard people using other airbrushed gloss black. Blackchamber posted:Oh MJP I think you might be my soul mate. Yeah, don't look at the actual model kit pricing. There's an Arbalest kit out there for around $140ish. muike posted:be strong brother, the Arm Slave line from Koto is not dead yet... It's dead at HLJ and 1999 - if there's any not-dead parts, kindly link so I can fill a much-needed niche. I want my Cold War mecha ;_; (D-Style doesn't count) MJP fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Nov 5, 2014 |
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Nov 5, 2014 17:17
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BlitzBlast posted:I did. How many coats of the base did you use? Alclad base or other? How heavy were the coats? I've had nothing but success with Alclad in terms of the metallizers so far, curious as to your process to see if I can use the Maple spectral one for the Mercurius' beam saber. Blackchamber posted:If anyone was looking for one of those PERVY anime statues of Rinko Iori from Build Fighters I saw it was only $40/50 or so on HLJ while browsing the 'sale', down from $80 elsewhere. It's a Feb. release date. Why is it that Aila and China are the only decent Build Fighters figures so far? The recently-announced Fumina one looks too goddamn  to believe that anyone will buy it. we're probably not gonna get a Gyanko figure 
MJP fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Nov 5, 2014 |
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Nov 5, 2014 22:12
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The only reason I did four coats was because it was just as dim at two.
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BlitzBlast posted:Two light coats of Alclad Gloss Black Base. I have friends who have also tried to use alclad's holographic finishes, and it's pretty much universally agreed that they don't show up at all except under sunlight. Ergh. I was hoping the maple finish would do good beam sabery things so I didn't have to worry about gradienting the Mercurius beam saber. D: Back to actual Gunpla talk: I just pulled the trigger on the Miss Sazabi at HLJ, and got in on the backorder for the Command Gundam. With that and the Satan Gundam (it's strictly for the little goldplate Star of David it comes with for a really, really, really terrible idea) I'm basically getting three kits for the Miss Sazabi after taxes at Gundam Planet. JUST under 6000 yen to get SAL. Qubeley Papillon's already done, so I'll be set for an all-Aila shelf once the figure drops in February.
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Nov 5, 2014 23:09
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Apparently Plamoya has the Robot Damashii Rk-92: http://plamoya.com/en/robot-spirits-side-as-savage-sand-color-bandai-robot-spirits-ful-p-11583.html?cPath=143_1019 Someone please tell me that it's as dumb an idea to plunk down $90 on a six-inch metal robot toy as it would be to plunk down $300ish on the Konig Monster from Macross Frontier :-(
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Nov 7, 2014 02:35
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With thanks to the goons who responded in the SA-mart thread request, I think I'm the first person in the USA with these bad boys.  Now to not bring them home for fear of the wife discovering the Beargguy, which is for Xmas 
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Nov 7, 2014 17:52
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madpanda posted:Does anyone have experience using these pens for panel lining? They come in smaller tip sizes than the microns and are significantly cheaper. The first one is acid free, not sure about the second. I've got a Copic Multiliner that comes in a .003mm nib. It's done nothing but great stuff. Same alcohol/water-wipe to clean up.
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Nov 7, 2014 18:15
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Re: nub removal, I posted in the last thread about Gundam Planet's video mentioning curved blades. I can now state from my personal experience that curved blades are AMAZING for nub removal and everyone should give it a try. I've been doing nothing but curved blades on Metal Gear Rex, which is now complete. Cut the part from the sprue close to the tree, then cut down the nub to around 2mm remaining. Err on the side of any stress from the cut being far away from the part. Use the curved blade with just a slight slicing motion to push through with just enough pressure. You're making the first few slices AWAY from the surface of the part just to be sure. e.g. the Major Nelson step 5 method: One or two to remove the remaining bulk on each side of the nub. Then repeat on the other side of the nub. Cut flush with the surface. There's gonna be a slight bit of nub but zero - ZERO - white stress marks if you do it right. The rest is just careful shaving with the curve of the blade or sanding to completely flush. It's a different paradigm than the standard #11 or other angled blades - with those you're pushing through the nub. Once you get just the right amount of pressure, it's perfect. I hate to use a sports analogy but think of it like swinging a golf club or baseball bat - you're aiming to get the right motion to connect and have the right follow-through. If you push too hard or slice too hard with a curved blade, you get the stress mark. I'll see if I can put together a video on this, seeing as the only one I can think of that teaches the curved blade is the Gundam Planet one, and that doesn't really get granular into how to do it. It does take some getting used to - my earlier Rex post has some meh nubs galore that have since been cleaned up a little: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3678195&pagenumber=2&perpage=40#post437175085
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Nov 10, 2014 15:46
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everythingWasBees posted:You mentioned earlier that you were using an x-acto blade for this, right? Do you happen to know the number of the blade? And does this method work for pulling the blade instead of pushing. I've never actually gotten down cutting away from myself, instead of towards me. I used a #10 curved blade, my bad. My local hobby shop has the #16 mini curved blade, which looks promising - the #10 has a large straight edge, which I found useful during the shaving phase, whereas #16 is all curve. #22 is like a less-long #10, which is on my list to try as well. I had to run out of the house - yesterday I finished the railgun and radar at my in-laws' house, and I'm not yet attaching them to the main body to make life easier when decaling happens. Here's a bad blurry photo for now:  I wonder how I'm gonna panel line this sucker. One major pitfall, though. The peg that connects the leg to the... uh... hip? snapped off by my fault. Instead of connecting the peg to the leg and pushing it into the hip receptacle (it's a D-shaped peg that goes into the hip, a ball joint for the leg) I was stupid and put the peg into the hip, then pushed the leg on. SNAP went the D-shaped peg, formed by two parts, flying away somewhere. It took a fuckton of superglue to secure it. It's a bit of white spiderweb that you see in the hip. I may paint over it, but I definitely decree that on my Rex, there will never be pictures of it from the left side because of my dumbassery. IF YOU BUILD REX, BE CAREFUL WITH THE HIP JOINT. GET THE BALL JOINT INTO THE LEG FIRST. I'm also trying painting the figures for the first time ever. It's a big new to me. A guide I have basically says prime the figures, then used a watered-down brown acrylic as a base coat. After that, just mix some flesh color with the brown, drybrush, let dry, and progressively mix in more flesh to the brown then continue drybrushing. Use washes for the hair. I am so scared of not having proper figures for this, I want to show the scale of Metal Gear by having Snake face off against it Also, does anyone have any Detolf alternatives that are a little bit less profile-y? I've only got one decent spot in the nerd room to put a display case, and I worry that A) a Detolf will be partially cut off by a curved TV stand that I can't really move much more, and B) the area it'll be placed will be exposed to a lot of natural light from the rear. I don't mind having less space, so long as it can display MGs. Edit: Vaporware posted:I use a #11 blade for nub removal and almost always cut towards the flat of my thumbpad. I apply gentle pressure and a tiny bit of sawing action. Typically I only need to burnish the spot with my fingernail and it is like there never was a nub to begin with, no sanding. This is a perfectly valid method as well, and what I did until I tried the curved blades. Even the curved blade removal, if done perfectly, may leave some minor stress that a fingernail burnish takes care of. There's almost always that tiny bit of dark discoloration relative to the plastic around, and I've found no amount of progressive sanding gets rid of it; this is almost completely negated by matte/flat coating. To me, the curved blade advantage is that it's a lot easier to get the nub down correct with less risk of stress marks. Moreover it's easier to do shaving - just gently shave with the curved part as needed, and doing it that way means you get less risk of shaving off other parts of the part in question. Do what works best for you, always. I say try both if you don't mind experimenting with the #10s. MJP fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Nov 10, 2014 |
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Nov 10, 2014 16:58
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Ka0 posted:What is a good place to get those finishing extras like metallic pieces, photo-etched parts and decals that japanese builders can get at a grocery store. Or perhaps HG kits don't need them and I'm exaggerating. Abby.lc and hqoparts on Ebay. Other sellers do 'em too, or you can search for "Gundam metal detail up parts" to get the good stuff. HLJ carries Adler's Nest amongst others, which has metric tons of cool metal parts and stuff. Edit: Re: Neo Zeong, I have the funds to get one and a house, but we have no workable space to put it that isn't the centerpiece of our dinner table, and I've been told that "if the nerd room turns into the robot room, we're gonna have problems" so the dinner table is out. What my wife doesn't know is that there's gotta be a way to rig the NZ up as a menorah. How do I run LEDs and rig up a 9-way switch? Edit 2: life is getting in the way of finishing Metal Gear Rex until next weekend, so here's how things stand now. This picture looks better than it does in the real world - the plastic is way less DARK BLACK in it, more of a very dark charcoal. I'm stunned at how good it looks in this photo. The nubs on the left leg's smoke grenade launchers are way too prominent, though, so out comes the sandpaper. Any special precautions when sanding down enamel paint? 
MJP fucked around with this message at 18:39 on Nov 12, 2014 |
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Nov 12, 2014 18:32
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mr. stefan posted:Unfortunately it's about 3 arms short unless you want to parts order and get real crazy. Arms? Who's talking about arms? The fingers are ripe for it. "Baruch ata Full Frontal, elohenu melech ha'Zeong," etc. runwiled posted:Hey man, I wouldn't complain about it looking good in a photo. The reflection off the red bowl is giving off some cool secondary lighting too. I propose you make this into a diorama piece with lighting! It's bright pink  I don't quite have the diorama skills but I am planning on painting (somehow) the Liquid and Snake figures that came with it. Somehow I feel more drawn to show the scale of Rex more so than the MG Zaku II that I built. I guess for no other reason than other than Rex is a giant hulking beast against which you have no equal footing, and the tiny Snake with a Stinger is as David & Goliath as it gets. If only I could find the right mix of paint to use as a watered-down flesh color wash for Liquid, and figure out how to do the combat gear on Snake :-( MJP fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Nov 12, 2014 |
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Nov 12, 2014 19:21
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runwiled posted:Pink is the best colour. If I ever build a Gundam again I kind of want it to be the PG Strike Rouge because that fucker is FABULOUS, although PG Unicorn might sway me if it's engineered well. I have never done miniatures before, ever. Following Youtube advice I have a basecoat of brown on Liquid. I will try your advice at my next opportunity. You can barely see Liquid in the one alligator clip in that picture. These things are about as tall as my thumbnail. I am so intimidated by painting them it's nuts. Edit: I also did some checking, the base for Rex appears to be compatible with Kotobukiya chain bases. All I need are the walls from one or two, though. Dammit. MJP fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Nov 12, 2014 |
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Nov 12, 2014 20:12
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runwiled posted:If you're intimidated, then you could look to getting something equally as tiny and painting that for practice or else be content within yourself that you're going to be learning as you go and your first attempt will never look amazing but you can probably still make something you're proud of. I think I got rid of the sprue that had the Zaku II's pilot - my only other option is the Mineva Zabi one that came with the Delta Plus. I'm intimidated by painting hers just as much... bleh. Must resign self must be OK with failure
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Nov 12, 2014 20:26
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everythingWasBees posted:http://majorwilliams.blogspot.com/2011/04/gundam-building-101-reverse-wash-and.html I can attest. I used this tutorial to do a reverse wash across the entirety of this beast, which absolutely required some kind of means to get the veiny blue of the skin:  I highly recommend three things that I would do now which I wish I knew when I did the seaQuest, which would have prevented the uneven application: 1) Do your Q-tip rubbing about 5ish-10ish minutes after applying your top color, rather than waiting until fully dry 2) Use a turpenoid lighter fluid - Ronsonol in the yellow container is one; enamel won't thin with alcohol and enamel thinner might take out the gloss coat 3) Q-Tip just started marketing precision Q-tips with a pointed end, which would allow for FAR greater control. I got a box of 170 at my local Stop & Shop, with the other Q-tips, for around $2ish and can send them if you cover costs, should you be unable to find 'em. http://www.qtips.com/product/detail/115035/precision-tips
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Nov 12, 2014 23:25
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signalnoise posted:Thanks for making me aware of this, holy poo poo I did not want to pay like 9x as much for Tamiya If you (or anyone else) can't find it just PM me, I'll send happily.
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Nov 13, 2014 03:56
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:A quick search turns up the Schuzrum-Galluss They shoulda picked a name that translated to "punching anteater"
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Nov 13, 2014 17:43
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The Muffinlord posted:Hey, what was that pen that people were recommending for panel lining? It was something crazy like .3mm or something, but I can't dig through the whole thread on my phone. I like the Copic Multiliner SP, it comes in 0.03mm. Problem is it's only in black, as far as I know. You'd do a lot better getting this - it has a pigment pen for pretty much any conceivable color you'd ever want to use as a panel line. http://www.amazon.com/Triplus-Finel...iplus+fineliner
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Nov 18, 2014 19:38
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Gird your loins and guard your wallets https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SNWs94vGf0 Also, what are the thoughts on this lovely Chinese compressor with a tank? I have the really small version of this, but I've noticed that at lower pressure, after about 10-12 seconds of sustained airbrushing it'll spurt out at full pressure. Not so good for even topcoating or painting down the road. http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMP...rush+compressor
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Nov 19, 2014 17:15
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everythingWasBees posted:Destroy Unchained. Destroy 2: NT-D Boogaloo
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Nov 19, 2014 17:50
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The Muffinlord posted:Destroy Unchained is cool, I guess, but I was kinda hoping for Gerwalk. I can't wait until I have the skills and time necessary for the HY2M Dom.
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Nov 19, 2014 22:07
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Samba De Amigo posted:I'm most excited about the Dark Matter MG since I love that horrible mess. That and the Gerbera There's a Gerbera coming forth? Link? I must have missed it.
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Nov 20, 2014 17:55
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TaurusOxford posted:He means GP-04. It's codename is Gerbera. So much for my MG Kirara version.
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Nov 20, 2014 20:24
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Poison Mushroom posted:My first Gundam Marker arrived, a dark grey one. And oh my god, the difference is like night and day. And I found a nifty little corner-cutting use that saves me a lot of tedium. Once I clip a gray or black part free from the runner, instead of sanding, I can just cut off the nub with an x-acto, and then cover any stress lines with the marker. Now I just need to get colored ones, so I can do this with red and blue parts, too. Can we get some before/after pictures? I do mostly straight builds and while I'm all about painting some internal parts for detail, I'd love a shortcut to make stress marks less prevalent. How flush are the nubs after you cut them free?
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Nov 20, 2014 20:54
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Poison Mushroom posted:Since you're covering any damage, you can cut completely flush, or even take a little bit off, without worrying about the damage. If you're cutting right at the part, though, wouldn't that possibly induce gouging like that cut you have?
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Nov 20, 2014 23:12
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Poison Mushroom posted:Yeah. That's why you want to cut parallel to the surface. Shave off, rather than cutting off. I just got overeager and came at it at a bad angle. I'd love to see the results as you go on darker colors. After straight building MG Rex and having some nubs that didn't fully shave away cleanly this might not be a bad final touch-up option, or to use Gundam markers as I go through others.
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Nov 20, 2014 23:22
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Needs more Qubeley Papillon  (Is anyone gonna make a 1/100 conversion resin kit or something, I want my teal Qubeley :-( )
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Nov 22, 2014 03:13
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I've tried making my own pseudo-Squadron sanding sticks but there's some kind of voodoo - the 600 grit 3M sandpaper I glued to foam from the butcher counter, y'know, the kind that meat comes in (No I didn't get it with meat on it, they gave me a couple of unused ones) just doesn't do as well as the medium grit Squadron sticks. Not nearly flexible enough to just get the nubs without flattening out parts. Popsicle sticks are even worse. There's gotta be a better DIY option; the emery boards I got are grittier than the files I'd used before them. Anyway, I have resigned myself to be painting my Rick Dom. There's Mr. Surfacer on some less-than-stellar shoulder and arm part seams that got almost, but not quite, Extra Thin Cemented properly. One of these days I will figure out how to actually get a decent seam join with Extra Thin. I came close, but not quite, on my Zaku II 2.0 and close, but not quite, on my Zaku I Sniper. Next time I'mma try it like this - but feel free to correct or interject if I'm doing something dumb: 1) Lightly sand the surface of the parts to be joined 2) Brush on a coat of Extra Thin on one part 3) Brush on a coat on the other 4) Repeat steps 2 and 3 5) Push parts together save for around a 1mm or less gap 6) Drip some more Extra Thin into the gap and let capillary action happen 7) Push and hold together with vise-like strength as best as my fingers can allow in hopes that the stuff seeping out is plastic and not just excess cement 8) Wait a couple hours and progressive sand to completion If I'm lucky whatever collateral sanding damage gets primer'd out. I realize this is a fairly elementary skill, and from a very cursory look through the manual, will only affect the remaining bits of shoulder. The bell bottoms look like the seams won't be visible, yay 1999 MG engineering!
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Nov 23, 2014 04:49
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signalnoise posted:Whoever suggested a Copic Multiliner SP 0.03, thanks, this thing is great That was me, and I'm glad it helped! That plus the Staedtler Triplus set should probably take care of all your panel lining needs until you take the enamel wash route.
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Nov 24, 2014 17:46
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Hijo Del Helmsley posted:Is that Triplus set worth the buy? They seem like they might be a bit thick for panel lining, at .3mm They don't do as well as the Copic, but for variety at that size and price, it's as good as I can find. I'm all ears for a better value option, but from what I've done so far, they do fine and dandy. Give it two minutes to let the line dry and go over the surface part of the line that shouldn't be lined with an alcohol-impregnated Q-tip, and you're golden.
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Nov 24, 2014 21:43
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So I finally finished Metal Gear Rex! I'm pretty sure that the figures are going to end up in the hall of shame part of Traditional Games but for my first time out, I'm satisfied. Album is here: http://imgur.com/a/wfC2w 
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Nov 25, 2014 22:57
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Blackchamber posted:Hey man thanks for sharing your build here. I'm looking forward to mine so I have to live vicariously right now. Sorry I didn't do more of the build itself in progress - but to be honest, this is just basically an MG with different parts setup and, believe it or not, no seam filling. The brown inner frame parts are where the seams lie, and anything with a seam is basically covered by the external parts. Get it while prices are reasonable at $80ish on Amazon for the black version, $72 to pre-order the gray version (GET THE GRAY ONE) PoptartsNinja posted:The figures look fine, and everything else looks great (I don't even spot that nub you're talking about, but I admit I don't know where to look)! Broken Loose posted:Easier than that: Touch your wrists to each other like you're handcuffed. Your hands will be forced to shake at the same angle and frequency. Next time I paint plastic mans I will try both. Been dying to have an excuse to get a hangar base or something like that, and do a maintenance scene. I always thought a Dom painted in desert colors with Soviet decals would be the singular coolest thing, so maybe I'll invest in an HGUC to fit a hangar and do maintenance mans.
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Nov 26, 2014 01:29
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Users of Mr. Surfacer 500, I need some help. I went to down on the gigantic amount of seams of my Rick Dom's beam bazooka, because I'm a dumbass who thought it'd be easier/better to do the seams with Mr. Surfacer 500 and/or putty as necessary rather than risk weird non-welds with Tamiya extra thin. After getting just enough fill of Mr. Surfacer and giving it a modest sanding, then putting on Alclad white primer (lacquer, if it matters), I noticed that the blobs of Mr. Surfacer alongside the seam weren't so smooth. They blobbed through the primer. So I went at them a little more, this time with a bit of force to the sanding sticks I was using (600 grit on a popsicle stick) and seeing that I wasn't making too much headway, I started breaking out the Revlon emery boards. What you see is after redoing the sanded areas with primer, and going a little heavy on it to ensure the residual scratches got scratch-filled. I'm a bit concerned that I can't quite get rid of the blobs. Should I soak Q-tips in lacquer thinner and run them over the offending areas until the blobs are gone and primer again? Or should I just sand this coat of primer at 600 or a different grit, hope for smoothness, prime again, etc.? If it helps, I'm going to be putting Alclad gloss black base on this, then Gunmetal metallizer. Since this is a giant loving beam bazooka that's literally taller than the Rick Dom that'd carry it, I'd like to do what I can to de-blob the seam. Any thoughts? Click for huge if it helps. This was also taken about three feet away from a bare CFL bulb, so I don't know if I'm being a perfectionist or if the primer's doing its job of revealing flaws that can be fixed.  
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Nov 26, 2014 04:35
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| # ¿ Apr 26, 2024 03:34 |
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Tenzarin posted:I wanted to see if you are really sure about your quality and.... I wish I could have done so detailed a face as that, though :-( For anyone who wants to see an unboxing of MG Rex: http://www.hobbylink.tv/1100-rex-black-ver-by-kotobukiya-part-1-unbox
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Nov 26, 2014 17:34
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