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Midjack posted:I'll spare the hoarders reject pix this thread and just say that Bimmi is the only one who will admit to surpassing my stockpile on this board. Goddammit now you're going to make me post a current picture of my Gundam closet, aren't you?
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Nov 2, 2014 03:03
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signalnoise posted:My understanding is that it's much more a matter of layering and paint opacity. This. To get a good gradient you want to spray successive thin layers. Building up layers builds opacity, and the more opaque a the color, the closer to that actual color that section is. One thing you can do for a beam saber, for example, is spray down some chrome, and then clear red on top of it. The clear red will start off looking pink, and the more layers you spray the more toward red it will go. If you want a good effect, you just have to build it up. On the bright side, because the layers are thin, it's pretty impossible to screw up unless you mess up a lot of successive layers. But then you can always start over.
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Nov 3, 2014 20:58
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MJP posted:What if I want the core to be red and the edges pinkish? Would I just do the chrome/red candy coat, then do very thin pink layers progressively outwards? If you wanted the candy look and wanted the red in the center, you'd spray the whole thing with a light coat of clear red to get the light pink color, and then spray subsequent coats over less and less area from the center each time. The more coats on an area, the darker it becomes, so you want the most coats in the center. If you're not wanting to do a clear over chrome candy look, and you want to just use red and pink paint, you can do that, too. In that case, you have a couple of options. You can either paint the blade red, and start layering on pink for your gradient along the outside of the blade, or you can paint the whole thing pink, hit the center with red, build out that gradient, then do a second gradient with pink and white for the edge highlight. As long as you have a precise enough airbrush, the second method would be a little easier.
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Nov 3, 2014 22:07
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ActionZero posted:But if you don't buy a new X kit how will you mount a Satellite Cannon on your Plan-B once you finish it? By using the double satellite cannon from the old 1/100 Double X, of course! Also, G-Falcon
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Nov 3, 2014 22:54
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BlitzBlast posted:You two joke, but I've already gotten both 1/100 DXs as well as two extra HGAW GX's with accompanying resin G-Bit conversions. Who's joking? I saw the Double X/G-Falcon set in one of your pics.  I mean, if you're not going to use the satellite cannons as hip-mounted swing cannons a-la Freedom, then what ARE you going to do with them?
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Nov 3, 2014 23:37
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W.T. Fits posted:Agreed; here's hoping for an HGAW Leopard at some point in 2015. At some point, it would be nice to get HG Daughtress and Jenice kits, too. The old LE kits aren't exactly great.
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Nov 4, 2014 00:14
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New thread, new (crappy) backlog pictures. Not everything is visible, but you get the idea. 
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Nov 5, 2014 17:04
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Zedd posted:So what types of paint dont melt gunpla? You're good with pretty much whatever. ABS is pretty susceptible to thinner, so you want to make sure you don't mix in a ton of thinner, or really hot (see: automotive) thinner if you're spraying ABS. It IS possible to paint ABS with lacquer paint, but you need to prime first, and you have to be careful with the mix and make sure to do very thin coats. Once the primer is cured, you don't have to be nearly as careful with the actual paint. If you Regular polystyrene isn't so bad. If wet lacquer thinner sits too long on ABS, it can make it brittle and crumble over time. Which, since you see it most in inner frames, is a bad thing.
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Nov 5, 2014 18:34
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TaurusOxford posted:I really wish I had my time back and made the thread title Gunpla/Plamo Thread Mk.IV: Build your goddamn backlog! I was going to suggest Gunpla/Plamo Thread Mk.IV: Three Times the Backlog of Ordinary Threads but I missed the suggestion phase. Suzaku fucked around with this message at 19:07 on Nov 5, 2014 |
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Nov 5, 2014 18:58
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BizarroAzrael posted:What are some good paints that will run through an airbrush but also work with brushes? I know Tamiya don't get on with being brushed on, and Citadel works but I expect I can get cheaper than GW stuff. I wouldn't airbrush with GW stuff. I don't know about this latest formulation, but previous incarnations haven't thinned terribly well. Vallejo is a good way to go. In addition to their Game Color and Model Color lines, they also make a Model Air line that is designed for airbrushing. They all thin reasonably well. P3 and Reaper also thin well, which should let you airbrush pretty well, while also brushing on quite well. You *can* handbrush Tamiya paints, but it's a bit more of a pain than with the above acrylics. Personally, I'd go with Vallejo, specifically the Model Color and/or Model Air lines, for what you're wanting.
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Nov 6, 2014 17:58
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BlitzBlast posted:And hey, maybe they'll release the full Shuffle Alliance. I loving hope so. I'd prefer HG kits of the Shuffle Alliance, but since that doesn't seem like it's happening, RD's would be the next best thing. The old NG kits are atrocious. I'm staring at a primed Spiegel that I just cannot summon the energy to paint. And then there's the other five or so G kits in my Gundam closet yet to assemble.... Goddammit Bandai, loving give G Gundam the love it deserves.
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Nov 8, 2014 07:13
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BlitzBlast posted:A reminder that G Gundam bombed in Japan. So depressingly true. I get why it never took off there, but drat if it wasn't one of the best things to ever come out of the franchise. It frustrates me that related merchandise is still not anywhere near popular to this day. ...You have no idea how much I want and MG Gundam Rose....
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Nov 8, 2014 07:49
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Gammatron 64 posted:Thank god. I thought I was hosed. Nah, you good. Well, depending on how tight the frame pieces fit. One coat silver, some small number of coats of clear green and you should be fine. You don't want to use chrome unless you want to put gloss black down under it, and since you already painted, you really don't need to prime under the silver. If THAT doesn't work, you will need to strip the paint off. Simple Green *might* work, that purple stuff might as well, and brake fluid might be worth a try if nothing else does the trick. At least, it strips off chromed "special" coatings really well.
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Nov 9, 2014 09:01
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Gils posted:the neo zeong is basically the size of a small child so i'm going to pretend you buy like dog halloween costumes and dress it up This...is actually a disturbingly amusing idea..... Make the Neo Zeong a festive centerpiece!
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Nov 12, 2014 04:48
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MJP posted:I've had fine results with Alclad and Tamiya airbrush cleaner. I'm out of cleaner, though, and those are fairly pricey - like $7-8ish for a small bottle - so inquired on some plastic model/Gunpla Facebook groups as to which cheapo lacquer thinner works best. Everyone seems to say the big cans of lacquer thinner from Home Depot/Lowes do just fine to clean lacquer, so I'll be picking one up and posting results next time I paint. Probably won't be anytime too soon, I'm taking a brief break in order to gird my loins for the onslaught of Gunpla I have from Secret Santa exchanges, yet to unwrap, and from hints dropped to the wife for in-law family distribution. Yep, the big cans work fine. That's what I use. Just do yourself a favor and make sure you get the low odor variant. It's not scentless by any means, but it's not nearly as bad as the regular stuff.
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Dec 18, 2014 17:15
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MJP posted:Speaking of Vallejo, while Mr. Metallic Color gives amazing results as a handbrushed metallic, I'd like to minimize my use of lacquers - even with a spray booth, it propagates a smell through the rest of the house. The last round of Games Workshop paints before the latest refresh had some really solid acrylic metallics. One of about three good things I can say about GW paints.... I'm not sure if the new line continues that metallic quality, but it may be worth checkng out.
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Dec 19, 2014 16:05
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Tenzarin posted:I got another question, brush strokes, how do you fight them? My practice spoon looks sad. In addition to multiple thin layers, paint each coat perpendicular to the last. So if your first coat goes up and down on a part, your next one should go left and right. Tamiya will level better with that cross-hatching.
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Dec 27, 2014 07:23
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Warmachine posted:Some have the potential to move. That's all they need, really. This is why you should flood your display case with plavsky particles.
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Jan 14, 2015 19:29
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Bloody Pom posted:Make sure you keep the damage level set to C, otherwise... Too bad RG Zeta is locked to damage level A 
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Jan 15, 2015 05:38
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Azubah posted:A buddy in Japan picked up the PG Unicorn for me and plans on getting me the LED and weapon kits. HLJ did a PG Unicorn build on their youtube channel, and they went back and put the LEDs in after the kit was finished. Definitely not the recommended route--you'll have to disassemble large parts of the kit to install them. You'll have much less of a headache if you wait.
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Jan 16, 2015 17:19
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signalnoise posted:What is this magic? It breaks my mind because all my clear paints for miniatures show up better with white primer For clears, yeah. They tend to show up better on white. Metallics tend to always be more vibrant on blacks. In the case of Mr. Color Crystal, I'd hazard a guess that the metallic flakes are so sodding tiny and suspended in a clear or translucent medium such that they become more of a tint on white, and only show up properly on a gloss black background. I still wouldn't have expected *that* large of a difference, though. Still, I know what's going on my shopping list when I get to building my Qubeley.
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Jan 20, 2015 21:26
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Warmachine posted:Jesus that thing does look like a brick. The O needs to lay off the McDaniels. I...suddenly want to do a The O up like Grimace.... Or a Ronald The O'Donalds.
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Jan 21, 2015 05:15
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0x0hShit posted:Is there a company that makes replacement polycaps, or just a general polycap replacement that can be used for making custom joints? I was looking at this but the tiny pictures that they have leave a lot to the imagination. Yellow Submarine makes some great polycap joints, depending on what scale you're looking for. I'd link, but a brief search-fu has failed my bourbon-addled and sleepy mind. I know Hobbylink Japan used to carry them, but now a search only returns results for a Beatles Yellow Submarine kit, so I'm having a WTF moment.
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Jan 22, 2015 06:14
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Midjack posted:The 1/144 Tallgeese is one of the 20-year old molds, be ready for that. Even worse, unless you want the Tallgeese III, the 1/144 Tallgeese kits are no-grades. Which, while not quite as bad as the G Gundam no-grades, are still pretty terribad. At least it won't require too much painting since it's almost entirely white, so there's that.
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Jan 25, 2015 06:28
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Bimmi posted:For clarity's sake, the Tallgeese III is just the regular old sockmonkey mold with an HG badge slapped on the box because there was a period of time in the latter half of the '90s when Bandai pretty much forgot what the words "High Grade" actually imply. Oh, christ. I just checked my kits, and that is totally correct. The TG1, TG2, and HG TG3 sprues are literally identical, excepting color, and the TG3 has one extra sprue. I don't know why I never noticed that before. What the gently caress, Bandai. There's lazy, and then there's this. So, yeah. The only good Tallgeese kits are the MGs.
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Jan 25, 2015 08:07
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MJP posted:Can one do light weathering with black, brown, and chrome silver acrylics? I'd drybrush the black for scorch marks, do the same with brown for some rust, and do chipping/drybrush onto pin-vised bullet holes with the silver. For rust you'll also want to mix some red in with that brown. The rest is doable--mostly it will just depend on application and technique
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Jan 27, 2015 23:26
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EthanSteele posted:Feddies, please stop trying to shoot Doms in the dick. But that's where the armor is thickest! If the feds stop being dicks about Dom dick, they might actually start doing some real damage.
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Jan 29, 2015 05:46
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An Angry Bug posted:Also, heads up to anyone in Austin, the Barnes and Noble had a ton of kits in stock. HG, MG, RG, plus these weird tiny rubbery kits in little boxes. Holy poo poo really? Don't suppose you're talking about the one at the Arboretum? I've got a gift card burning a hole in my pocket....
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Feb 1, 2015 04:36
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An Angry Bug posted:It's the one in the same center as the Michael's, on Brodie Lane. Pretty good selection. They close in an hour. Ah. Too far away from me. I'll have to check out the one up north though. They might have finally started carrying them, too. Thanks for the heads up!
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Feb 1, 2015 04:53
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Swagger Dagger posted:I've seen small Gundam sections in every Barnes and Noble I've been to lately, maybe 3 different ones. I picked up the RG Strike Freedom from there. They've been carrying Gunpla for a while, mostly online. I know they started a slow rollout to brick and mortar stores, and I've been checking the one by me irregularly without any luck. But it sounds like it's a pretty wide distribution now, which means mine might actually carry it. It has a pretty large toys and games section.
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Feb 1, 2015 05:10
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Mecha Gojira posted:You guys in Austin need to go to the HobbyTown USA's. THAT'S where the Gunpla is at. The one on MOPAC next to the Fry's always has a great selection. There's also a place out on 183 called Wonko's Toys and Games. They'll sell Gunpla and sometimes other plamo kits, though at a decent markup. They're nice folks, though, and I always stop in while I'm in town. I don't like paying 1.5x to 2x list on my kits, so I'll pass on Hobbytown. Their Gunpla pricing is atrocious. Last time I talked to them, they order from HLJ as customers, then price their kits to cover purchase price + shipping + markup. It's usually cheaper to buy from HLJ yourself, even after factoring in shipping. I tried to get them to talk to Bluefin, but either they haven't, or they have and still aren't adjusting their pricing. They do have a PG Strike Freedom on display, though, which is snazzy. And their tools are reasonable. If King's Hobby on Lamar is still around, they also have the occasional Gundam kit. Pricing is pretty random though. At one point they had the old-rear end Getter 1, 2, and 3 kits, but they wanted like $35 apiece so I declined. They were a great source of supplies, though. I haven't been down that way in ages.
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Feb 1, 2015 06:06
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Mecha Gojira posted:You're always going to find the best deal for kits online. That HobbyTown in Austin I go to just usually has a really nice selection of kits for relatively decent prices. Also, pretty sure they run through Bluefin considering the last kit I bought from them has a Bluefin sticker. I'll have to check them out again. Like I said, last time I was there it was cheaper to buy from HLJ and pay shipping from Japan, which is saying something. If they've dropped their prices to something more reasonable, I'd be happy to buy the hell out of kits from them. They do have a big selection.
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Feb 1, 2015 06:22
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So, this arrived today: 20150131_231145 Between that and the three old-rear end 90's kits, I think I now have a gaggle of Tallgeese. Fun note: The Tallgeese II comes with the normal MG Tallgeese manual, plus an insert of the painting and TG2 decal instructions. The TG3 has its own manual, but it lacks all of the interesting fluff text, and the only color section is the paint guide.
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Feb 1, 2015 08:45
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ACES CURE PLANES posted:Where'd you order from? My TG3 has yet to arrive from Gentei and I'm starting to get really worried. I ordered from Gentei. I think I placed the order back in August or September? It took about a week to arrive from when I got the initial tracking notification.
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Feb 2, 2015 01:24
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BizarroAzrael posted:I'd like to use chains in a design. I might use cheap jewelers chain for free-hanging stuff, but I'd like stuff that can hold a shape. What I'm imagining is like a bendable rod that gives the right appearance, does such a thing exist? The wire core of twist ties can also work. So can pipe cleaners, but they're harder to strip.
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Feb 3, 2015 03:08
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Blackchamber posted:Good news is its been relisted! I think it looks like he had his fingerprints taken, and then just glommed all over it without cleaning the ink off. And man, those seam lines! I'm glad it's made from plastic, though. I wouldn't want one of those gundarium knockoffs.
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Feb 4, 2015 06:33
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It's really amusing that the design Bandai made to mock bootlegs is one of the best official kits they've put out.
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Feb 11, 2015 00:08
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MJP posted:Anyone happen to know or be willing to measure the vernier lengths and widths on their MG Tallgeese? I want to order some Adler's Nest metal verniers from HLJ for mine but there's a bunch in different dimensions. I can when I get home, assuming nobody gets to it first. You want the full length and width of each nacelle?
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Feb 11, 2015 17:56
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Shinde posted:The angles I took don't really show the difference, but in-person, the sharpened V-fin looks MUCH better. Oh, no, they really, really do. That sharpened V-fin is spectacular. Also loving the lack of seam lines on the HGUC Char's Zaku. That kit has hella seam lines out of the box! E: And, it turns out I can't actually measure the verniers on my Tallgeese, because I haven't assembled mine, and they are too many pieces to get a good measurement without putting them together. Sorry about that. Suzaku fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Feb 12, 2015 |
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Feb 12, 2015 05:31
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CaptainRat posted:It's a little like giving methadone to people on heroin, trading one addiction for another. It's why they're over the counter instead of off the shelf.
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Feb 16, 2015 18:25
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