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TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Racing season is delayed, as our harbor is underwater and everything is eroding. :ohdear:









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TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Sunscreen, beer, and jump in the water to cool off.

Of course, I have use of a boat with a slip and a furler, so there's none of this raise the big stick attach the little stick business each time we want to go out. I may also be somewhat frustrated and wanting to sail, as I've spent all week being race committee rather than racing myself.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Kenshin posted:

Ohhh. Alctel, mind linking your blog?

Would also like a link!

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




FrozenVent posted:

Living on a boat is a masochistic endeavour.

The last time I did this, someone paid me 10 grands a month to do it, we had cooks and engineers, and the boat was 700' long, I still wouldn't do it again.

This... sounds like you need to share some stories friend.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




sharkytm posted:

Head over to the Maritime thread... plenty of stories.

I'm debating taking a 21-day cruise out of Hawaii in October on a 115' boat.

What subforum?

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Good news so far! Given the pictures floating around I'm guessing you're going to be amoung the lucky few...

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Maybe I'm broken, but it looks pretty cool and the idea of a transatlantic crossing without using any fuel is neat. Plus it goes fast.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




monsterzero posted:

Good eye, it's a Catalina 22.

I hadn't really thought about mounting amidship but it would be nice not having to climb over the stern pulpit (boat has the full, one-piece.)
I'm not sure I want to deal with a removable ladder though, and I like the idea of being able to just flip the ladder down and climb back up in case I ever go overboard while singlehanding.

If you go overboard while singlehanded the bigger issue is that the boat is going to be somewhere off in the distance, unless you tie yourself to it.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




monsterzero posted:

Agreed, but I don't have any sort of autopilot or even a tiller lock so it should just round up. Right?

Eventually sure. The boat I race on has very little weather helm - it's incredibly well balanced. Depending on the point of sail it'd keep going for quite a while.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




monsterzero posted:

Most of the advice I’ve found by googling has been to bring beer and a good attitude. Anyone have any advice or good resources for noob crewman?

Don't worry if someone is yelling at you to do something, it's hard to hear when things are going crazy so people yell to make sure they're heard.

Also bring beer.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Crunchy Black posted:

That's why I keep my happy rear end forward of the mast and out of the cockpit.

Anytime we do a custom crew shirt for a particular boat I request this be on the back of mine

First Club Champion Trophy race is today, looking like excellent J24 weather.


That looks pretty light for J24's, it'd be fun if the gusts were the sustained. I'm mid deck on a shark - I fly, launch, and douse the spin, run the genny upwind, and occasionally when we're shorthanded I'll cleat the spin (and pass one of the lines to the skipper to break it in an emergency) and go gybe it myself.

It's fun when it's howling, sustained 25+ knots with the spin up, surfing the waves. We were managing to keep pace with a J95 in 25knt winds who was carrying way too much sail - until the gust hit, and their spin blew out.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Crunchy Black posted:

I'm presuming everyone saw the J105 get owned by the powerboat but posting regardless.



https://www.facebook.com/mashleylov...O4Ju&__tn__=C-R

How do you miss the giant sailboat with sails up??

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Popete posted:

Ugh I can taste that copper paint just looking at the pictures.

I uh hope you've been wearing a proper mask (though you wouldn't wind up tasting it) with filters etc, that poo poo is awful for you.

In other news we got the horn shorthanded in one of our races a week or two ago :toot:

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006





A thousand times this. VC17 is such incredibly awful stuff.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Well done dude. Looking at Santana 20's, they seem pretty similar to Shark 24's (which is what I race). Not surprised you didn't need to play the main in 3-5knt winds, that'd be one hell of a tender boat if you did.

Its nice when as the skipper you can just worry about driving the boat and not everything else that's going on. My girlfriend usually skippers, and I run the rest of the boat when we're double handed, when we have a fore deck they don't come back to the cockpit at all. We've got one distance race left on Monday, and that'll be it for our season.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Yeah sharks started about 20 years before J24's. It's similar, was one of the first fiberglass boats so they're overbuilt to hell and back, which is why there are still a lot of them around. They're inexpensive to own/race as far as boats go, class rules mean dacron only so a full set of sails is less than 4K CAD (Main, Genoa, Spin). The idea behind them at the time was an inexpensive, sturdy family boat that would go like stink in heavy winds on lake ontario.

They phrf a lot closer to the santana 20 though, 219 this year. I think a J24 would be like 170ish?

Jealous about that C&C99, those are beautiful.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




It's snowing today, I'm racing sailboats next weekend.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Neslepaks posted:

I'm inching closer to making a very giant mistake...

I'm looking at a 24' wind powered mistake on Sunday. Wish me luck.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




I did a thing.



It's a 1963 Shark 24. Main, 2x 180 Genoa, Spin, etc. I got it for a price that made it way too easy 1800 CAD including trailer + 4.4 2 stroke outboard + sails/lines/etc, spin pole.

I've been racing sharks for 8 years now, and met my fiance doing so. This is a shared purchase between us, but she's the better helmsperson and likely will do most of the helming for racing. Bottom has been recently refinished, above the waterline needs work - it's solid, but scratched to hell and back and not all that smooth. There are one or two problem areas that shouldn't be too difficult to fix. Down the rabbit hole we go.

TrueChaos fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Aug 19, 2019

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Thanks! There's about 15 of these in the fleet where I am, most out racing regularly, a few of which are older than mine. Sail # is 194, and #94 races regularly. I learned to sail on #269, which was built in '64, and have raced against #12 at regattas. The first shark was built out of wood, and then they started in on fiberglass. Having no real understanding of fiberglass (it was brand new at the time) the boats are very much overbuilt.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Na, need to swap the keelbolts for longer ones that we can put lifting nuts on if we want to dry race. Otherwise lifting in/out is too much of a hassle with the whole box frame / sling deal. The lifting nuts would mean we could lift with the mast up and boom still on :getin:. We're probably going to get her in the water for a sail or two this year, but that'll be about it - we're moving cities within the next 6 months and will get a slip at the club of where we're moving for next year. My fiance's father has both a C&C27 and another shark that we can sail basically whenever we want, we've been racing his shark once a week (he races the shark for the other race nights) for the past few years.

Shark class rules are 3 people - our foredecker doesn't see the inside of the cockpit during racing, just hangs out at the shrouds and dives under the boom for tacks. With tweakers for the spin and a furler the foredeck area is actually really clear. In heavier wind mid deck and foredeck are both out on the rail near the shrouds. We frequently go with just the two of us for random distance races, it's not bad at all with a furler.

The hull above the waterline is pretty scratched up and almost rough to the touch in areas. Am I on the right track thinking that I should basically sand smooth, then add fairing epoxy compound to low areas/scratches, sand to a nice smooth finish, then prime/paint? There's a reason it was an $1800 boat/trailer/motor/sails/etc combo... :xd:

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Hadlock posted:

Oh hi, I was redirected to this thread from the spaceflight Megathread

Is this mostly about boring rear end powerboats? I've been thinking about starting a sailing specific thread for ages. I do bay sailing and offshore costal racing.

I could care less about soulless powerboats. Fight me.

Na, I wanna hear some costal racing stories. I race on lakes/giant rivers in a shark24.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Crunchy Black posted:

They conscripted me for foredeck lol

Pffft easiest spot on the boat if you've got any balance to speak of.

(I usually mid deck, though we race shorthanded a lot so I wind up mid deck and foredeck while my fiance helms. I can keep the chute flying through the gybe while pole dancing, which I've done in 20+ knots... I'm just giving you poo poo. I don't wear shoes though, helps with my balance)

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006





Holy poo poo.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Crunchy Black posted:

Yeah, I have a perforated ear drum so I don't get on a boat without Zhik ZKGs or seaboots on. My balance is incredibly poor.

Keeping the chute flying through a gybe is 25% driver 65% trimmer, 10% foredeck.

With two of us I'm trimming while foredecking at the same time. It's about as much fun as it sounds, I've wished for 4 hands more than a few times.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Driver handles the main - with the way we're rigged (ratchet blocks are a beautiful thing) it's doable. Plus sharks are small enough that worst case I can use the pole (unattached from the mast) to manipulate the guy side and just reach over and grab the sheet around where the tweakers attach and keep it flying. Frequently we'll cleat what will become the guy, and I'll manage the pole + what will become the sheet while forward. Once the main is over, the driver will assist on the guy if needed, but we're usually quick enough that it's not necessary. Shark spin poles are only 7'4", and don't weigh much, plus the beam is a little over 2' less than on a J24. Coupled with being 6' with lanky long arms, it makes things easier.

Could we do it with the driver running the sheet & guy? Sure, but that's too slow. Procedure there requires flipping the main and then gybing the chute, our way we get them both done at once and don't depower at all.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




There's a reason for the box of misc hardware parts on every boat.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




It's beautiful - would love to see interior pics if you get a chance!

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Neslepaks posted:

It kinda does that by itself when I turn it on.

Someone asked for interior pics, here are some. Cockpit looking forward:


Cockpit looking aft:


Aft cabin:



Front cabin, just a massive bed really:


Lobby area:


Heads:


With shower:


Cool shots, thanks for the pics!

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




I guess if we have to move forums it's okay, but AI is the right spot for it Imo.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Had a fantastic sail on Saturday - wind was a bit higher than expected, 14ish knots sustained gusting to 25. We put the chute up and surfed the waves at 8+ knots downwind. A++ would sail again



Back upwind we were getting knocked down on the main only :v:. Probably could have gone faster if we pulled out the headsail, but I didn't feel like doing a headsail change and the 180 would have been quite a handful and the main probably would have just been flogging most of the time.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




I keep checking back with every new post hoping for boat photos, but I remain disappointed.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




I learned to sail after moving to a quiet town and asking coworkers what the hell there was to do around here in the summer for fun, and was told if I was interested in sailing they knew a few boats looking for crew for racing. It wasn't difficult aside from the occasional yelling, and there was beer after every race.

I've still never taken any kind of course. I'm going to eventually take some cruising courses as we're looking at chartering a boat for a vacation someday. I could see courses being useful for dinghies where you need to learn how to right them after turtling, but honestly it's really not that difficult. Crewing on a race boat will throw you into all kinds of conditions, and you won't be the one in charge - as long as you can keep your head about you and follow direction you'll be fine, and you'll learn a lot. People are always looking for crew, and most are happy to have anyone regardless of ability, and are willing to explain what they're doing, what they need you to do and why, etc. Plus it usually doesn't cost you anything other than a 'crewing' membership at the club, which are typically quite inexpensive.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Crunchy Black posted:

Hadlock, I've literally never been on a boat that's had a rig failure and we beat the dogshit out of our J24s here.

I've never considered standing rigging to be a wear item if its stranded or solid steel and isn't obviously visually compromised, is your experience different?

I have seen rig failure on a shark at the spreaders (those shrouds were <15 years old) that brought down the mast, on another shark of unknown age snapped one racing in 25knots gusting to 35 (probably well past 30 years on the stays), a tazer 26 that snapped an outer stay and the mast went plop, an Olson 29 that forgot to release the running back stay on a tack and brought down the mast (not really the stays fault on this one).

Check in with your insurance - in all the instances above, the masts were replaced by the insurance company with the exception of the one shark that the stays were >30 years. For the shark, they found that the stays had exceeded their lifespan and that's why the mast came down. They're considered a wear item by the insurance company.

For what it's worth, we're replacing the entirety of our stays before putting our shark in the water next year. As far as I can tell, all but 2 are original... From 1964. And on a shark it'll cost <600CAD :v:

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Yeah we're lucky we have a place that makes stuff for sharks, including masts. A brand spanking new mast with internal halyards, stays, etc., only runs $4K. The boat including trailer, motor, and sails was 1800$

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Crunchy Black posted:

Former West Marine-er here

Hey maybe you'd have some advice for the repairs I'm looking at doing!

So a bit of the backstory on my boat, it was left uncovered outside for quite a while. At one point filling up with water (thankfully the structural wood is okay, bunch more needs some work, but it's good enough for now). What the previous-previous owner did, because he didn't give two shits, was drill a small hole behind the keel flange so the boat would stop collecting water. What the dumbfuck previous owner did to fix this was put a bolt through the hole and fair it in.

It's a small hole, <1/2", but I'd like to fix this properly. I'm also replacing keelbolts as they're original and the boats a few years short of it's 60th birthday, so I have some fairing work to do anyway. Would the basic procedure to fix the hole be:

1 - Sand a bit of the exterior in a circle outwards from the hole, ~1-2" total.
2 - Sand a bit of the interior in a similar circle.
3 - Tape plastic wrap tight over the exterior of the hole
4 - West 105 + 205 + 406, fill hole from the inside
5 - Sand exterior smoothish
6 - Fair the hole with West 105 + 205 + 407, once the previous application has completely cured
8 - Paint - paint with interprotect 2000e, 3+ coats, sand up to 800 grit, followed by VC-17 once cured

I'd also look at using the West 105 + 205 + 407 for a bunch of relatively deep scratches above the water line, as well as cleaning up a bunch of piss poorly repaired through holes in the deck for mounting hardware (i.e. sand / grind down existing lovely repair, fair with west system) followed with interprotect 2000e. There are a number of areas I'd like to do, and quite frankly I don't give a poo poo about colour matching at all, so I'm not worried about a bunch of white spots that aren't going to match easily. Above the water line it would be sand with 800 grit and then maybe buff with one of the compounds listed by others above.

Thoughts? Anyone else have input?

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




monsterzero posted:

I think you've got the general right idea on patching that hole. 1/2" is pretty small, but it is below the waterline.

The general advice for patching thru-hulls is to fair out at a 12:1 scope, so if your hull is 1/4" thick you go out about 3" and lay several layers of fiberglass on each side. I did this with a dead depth sounder last winter. It was a 1" hole, so a bit bigger but I think i used three layers of 1408 biax on each side and then faired it out with West 407 or 410. I didn't bother doing a seal coat before slapping Petit Vivid on the boat, but I suspect it'll be fine after I pull later this summer. Some not terribly helpful pics here.

If you do decide to lay up some glass, I'd strongly recommend two three things:
  • First, don't use the Bondo weave from the hardware store. Get some 1408 biax. It will cut down on the number of layers you need to do.
  • The second would be to use peel ply. It helps a lot when it comes to getting the air bubbles out and it gives you a much nicer (amine blush free) surface for the next layer after curing. Also hella satisfying to peel.
  • Finally, if you're laying up in confined spaces, or overhead, wet the glass before putting it in place. I had really good luck working on plastic sheeting. You get it soaked, and the air bubbles out then peel and stick. (Then hit it with the finned roller.)
West System has a great PDF guide that covers just about every repair you could make to a fiberglass boat.

Yeah, this hole is small enough and the area around doesn't have any cracking or anything - it's back of the keel so that I think I can get away with just a hard filler - 1/2" is a guestimate, could be closer to 1/4", won't know till I knock off the poo poo the PO did. If its upwards of 1/2" I'll do it with proper glass.

Big Taint posted:

How thick is the hull where this hole is? The keel stub area is under some stress and will flex (see cracking keel fairing above), you way want to incorporate a small layer of fiberglass cloth on one or both sides so your patch isn’t likely to pop out.

Re: the aforementioned keel fairing, since you’re getting cracking all the way around I’d probably grind it down to bare glass/reef out the old fairing and reapply. I’d use the West System 410 type filler with some epoxy, it’s pretty flexible and easy to sand. The stuff that’s on there is probably Evercoat Formula 27 or some other polyester filler, cheap and easy but it will pop off after a while. The epoxy will last longer but cost more.

Pretty thick. It's a shark 24, right around when they started using fiberglass for boats, so it's overbuilt to hell and back - likely why there are so many of them still kicking around. From what I can tell, there's been no cracking at all in the surrounding area and the patchwork (if half-assed) by the previous owner hasn't caused any detriment (the boat was raced like this in some pretty decent winds (20knt sustained gusting 30).

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




TheFluff posted:

This brings me to a question though. How do y'all lock your turnbuckles?

On the shark the inner and outer turnbuckles are right beside each other, so we just loop a small rope through the open space in the turnbuckles connecting the inners and outers together so that they can't rotate.

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




Round these parts captain brings the boat and the booze, and buys a round at the club bar post race.

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TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




So I bought another shark. Mainly because the current shark needs more work than I realistically have time to actually get done, and I want to spend more time sailing / racing.

Amusingly this one still needs some work, but it's limited to like a few coats of bottom paint and re-bedding deck hardware in locations that actually make sense for racing.

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