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Phy posted:That's something I always wondered about bass boats. Are they actually used for fishing, or just for farting around on the water? And if they are used for fishing, why do you need so much freakin' power? Do you need to, like, get right the gently caress over to the other end of the lake to punch the little buggers out of the air when you hear em jump? 1. Professional/Semi-Pro/Pro-Am fishermen. These guys absolutely hammer down and go balls out whenever they move from boat ramp to spot, spot to spot, and back in at the end of the day. They abuse all the poo poo on their boats and can and do break anything and everything on them. They use the power to get maximum fishing time. 2. "Tournament" fishermen. These are the guys who have normal jobs and fish tournaments on weekends. Varying level of success, but you wouldn't know it from looking at their gear. Many of these guys will have the same or even MORE gear than the pros, with two big differences. They don't break their poo poo, and they don't run their engines as hard. It was easy to spot them because when you put their engines on the diagnostic computers, they never showed to have more than about 5-10% of their total run time above ~70% of max RPM range. 3. Casual fishermen with money. These guys just liked to have the best of the best and would have the top of the line boat/engine. Most of these guys were pretty cool to deal with. It'd be like a car guy buying a Corvette Z06 or M3/4/6 and just putting to work in it day in/day out. Also I don't know what The Locator is talking about with having multiple engines on a bass boat. I haven't even heard of that existing.
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Dec 25, 2014 07:48
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Kenshin posted:Can anybody who has made large boat purchases in the past talk about boat financing? I assume you can get something similar to a mortgage, like you would a house? Because house prices here in Seattle are basically the same as a new ~45ft catamaran. And financing is a lot more strict for boat purchases. Lots of people came in and assumed they could finance a boat because they could finance a car and house, but their debt to income was all hosed up or whatever else, and they couldn't do it even though their credit score was decent.
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Dec 28, 2014 05:16
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SuperDucky posted:How old is it? Gelcoat takes years to cure. That's why some of the most sturdy sailboats you'll find are J24s that sat in a warehouse for a year or two after the production boom in the early 80s before being purchased. Generally, in the last few decades, gelcoat durability has taken a hit because fiberglass shops will literally pop it out of the mold, coat it, then, prime it/finish/etc.
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Mar 24, 2015 21:43
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Best value might be to just go through a dealer and get Quicksilver brand, which is basically Mercury OEM. Might be a little more expensive, but if it's work related and/or for your boss(es) the few extra dollars for maintenance parts wouldn't be a bad move. We always had trouble getting Merc parts in correctly from places like Sierra. If you do want to go aftermarket, call up a boat repair place in your area that specifically ISNT a Mercury Authorized service center and ask them about getting parts.
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May 14, 2015 16:38
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Elmnt80 posted:I probably should have been more specific, this is for us to stock the store I work at, so we're limited to whoever the company is partnered with. Store manager has 0 experience with marine stuff but still wants to sell it, so I volunteered to look it all up. Our marine stuff comes mainly through sierra, thus my problem. Though looking at mercury's website for parts, it mentions something about a classic parts catalog that goes up to 1989. Perhaps in 1990 they took all their parts in-house after doing a huge model refresh and thats why I can't find anything in the sierra catalogs or similar.
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May 15, 2015 21:48
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Git Mah Belt Son posted:So I just impulse bought a bass boat with my father in law. It's a 1987 Bass Tracker Tournament 17ft with a mercury 50 outboard. Paid a pittance for it, $900 was my share with trailer. Lower unit oil (gearlube), change it whenever you change the impeller. Probably holds 1 quart or just under/over 1 quart, look it up based on year/model to be specific. Fuel filter in the engine should be replaced with impeller kit. Also, you should install a boat-mounted water/fuel separating kit if the boat doesn't have one already. This is plumbed in between the tank and engine, and is as simple as mounting a bracket to a bulkhead, cutting the fuel line from tank to engine, and then putting the hose ends on the fuel line barbs. Spark plugs, to be safe, change with water pump impeller, or after seafoaming. As with any engine, look up Youtubes or DIYs for your specific model (which is on the Serial Number tag on the engine) for exact specifics. Things like making sure the throttle is in neutral when dropping the lower unit, "burping" the gearlube, etc. Most of the big engine manufacturers put maintenance intervals on these things at 100 hours/annually, but every other year is usually ok once you have a baseline. On an older engine you can be looking at things like coils, relays, stator, etc. but those parts you won't really replace until they fail. As far as the trolling motor, it sounds like the cable broke or the ends snapped that control the side to side movement. The cable is somewhat similar to what is used for bicycle brakes. Call up a marine service center near you and ask them if there is a trolling motor repair shop they'd recommend. Their rates will easily be half as much as a full boat repair place. Enjoy the boat!
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Jun 8, 2015 15:33
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The Locator posted:So this is a pretty awesome video to spend 12 minutes of your life on. Construction of the Fairlie 55, combining some very traditional ship-building with modern materials and tools, and producing a beautiful result.
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Jun 19, 2015 03:36
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Oh my god I don't even want to start thinking about that thing.
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Aug 10, 2016 16:21
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BigFuzzyJesus posted:Heres my fat butt starting my boat. Sorry about the snapchat quality and length, I didnt take it, but the sound is nice.
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Oct 13, 2016 23:47
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