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Sailing in storms sucks... When you're 15 days out on a passage, with 15 days to go to your destination, storms are no fun.... Especially when you have a crack in your hull and you're taking on 5+ gallons of water a day. You kinda just have to hold on and hunker down hoping it isn't gonna get any worse... You reach a point after a day or two where the storm stops getting worse and levels out, and you kinda relax because you know you're gonna be fine.
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Dec 21, 2014 15:31
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| # ¿ Apr 24, 2024 17:33 |
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I maintain motorboats for a sailing school, and one of them is leaking mayonnaise from the propeller shaft, my lucky day! The engine is a pile of poo poo johnson, model: j50plsib. I'm having a hard time finding any sort of service manual for that engine. Is it a straight forward seal replacement like most outboards? Usually you unbolt some retaining ring, and just pull the seal out, slide a new one in.... or in typical 2000's OMC fashion is it a huge pain in the rear end. I found a parts explosion for a 2002 and 2000 model, those look the same, so by the property of extrapolation (is that even a thing?) I'm gonna assume the 2001 model is the same... https://www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=2000&hp=50&model=J50PLSSM&manufacturer=Johnson§ion=Gearcase
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Aug 12, 2016 11:51
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Less sperging more boat chat.... I interpolated between the sun and the moon, this boat belongs at the bottom of the ocean. The bearing retainer has to be pulled out to replace some stupid o-ring that commonly leaks, not to mention similar levels of grief to do the top shaft seal. Anyway, I've already pulled it all apart, figured how I'm gonna press it back together, etc. Parts should be here this week. If anyone has to fix one of these, sell it. It's a miserably bad engine anyway.
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Aug 14, 2016 19:25
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I have an old laser. Years ago in high school a friend and I used to take it sailing in large craft advisories.... I have no idea how we didn't get ourselves in trouble doing that. We had that stupid thing up to like 25kt surfing down waves.
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Oct 7, 2016 11:15
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They must have had a chart plotter, right? It's like playing a video game, you just drive on the map... I probably have a thousand hours driving boats in dense fog by radar and paper chart, the first time I used a chart plotter with radar overlay I thought I died and went to heaven. That poo poo's amazing!
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Feb 14, 2018 14:37
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I'd budget for at least 2000 lbs to tow a 13' whaler. You're probably looking at 1000lbs, maybe a bit more for boat, engine, all your gear, etc. Another several hundred for a trailer. You probably aren't going out boating for the day alone, so passengers and the beer cooler. Also, vehicles rated for towing 1500lbs usually don't take hill starts up a steep launching ramp into account. Working around the water I've seen some hilarious failures with small FWD cars trying to tow boats up a steep wet ramp. Subarus are pieces of poo poo, so I don't suggest you buy one, but I had a forester that towed my bullseye like a champ. Even with a stickshift it had no problem pulling up a ramp.
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Apr 28, 2018 14:25
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Those old Volvo engines are ridiculously reliable, just keep up on valve adjustments and oil changes. Probably also a good idea to have the injectors rebuilt if it hasn't been done in the last ~500 hours or so. Those older sail drives are... a nightmare. I'd rebuild it on principle just so you know it's in good shape.
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Aug 2, 2018 01:17
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Maybe it's because I worked at a marine industrial park I saw a disproportionate amount of broken sail drives... Just never liked the things. In boat news, today I ran into something I've never seen before. Sadly the handful of shops I called have never seen it either... This is the alternator off a Bukh engine. I was called in for help because of a failure to chooch condition.  What we're looking at is the back side of a French S.E.V. Marchal alternator, I think they're basically the Nippon/Denso of France. The unusual part is the two B+ studs at the top of the picture. Those are two diode isolated outputs from the alternator designed to charge two isolated batteries at the same time. I can't imagine it works very well (well, it doesn't work at all now...). Issue is someone has hamfisted the terminals and broken the little bondwires off the diodes. I can find rectifiers and regulators for this unit, but not that weirdass isolated diode thingy on the back. Thinking I'm gonna have to either make my own diode set or convert it to being a conventional alternator and find another (likely better) isolation solution. The alternator does produce power when bench tested, just not through the diode pack magic. My other option is to try and find something modern I can retrofit. This alternator is much more common on some old Volvo Penta, so I might see what owners of that engine convert to. I hate doing weird one-off modifications for someone. Nobody else will be able to fix it, I end up owning the stupid halfassed repair...
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Aug 3, 2018 02:31
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TheFluff posted:I think that generator (or one very like it) was standard equipment on the 70's Volvo Pentas, yeah. I suspect the boat I posted about has one. As far as I know though the red assembly with the dual battery charging system was an optional accessory and I think you can just remove it? Amazingly it seems you can actually buy replacement regulators for these things, at least around here. I have an 800 page PDF of alternator parts that's saved me in the past. Punching the model number in brings up both the regulator and the rectifier. From the pictures I've seen it looks like the versions without the double charging nonsense still have a diode block on the back. They have a weird diode arrangement to isolate the D+ wire, one diode on the output and then one diode to the D+ so it has the same voltage drop and thus regulates properly. I might experiment ripping it all out and just wiring it like a normal alternator. The other issue I was running into bench testing is that it sometimes regulates fine, and then randomly jumps up to 15.2 volts. When questioned the owner says it always does that and it's normal.... They also say batteries don't last long on this boat, I wonder why... I think conversion to something modern is the correct solution here. Of course I could buy a regulator, but then I'm half way to just buying a whole new unit.
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Aug 3, 2018 13:36
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Welp, I guess it's time for a new boat trailer... Since galvanized trailers aren't welded, that piece is likely just bolted on. If the rest of the trailer is in decent condition it might be fairly cheap to have a trailer shop bend you a new one of those. Could buy you a few more years out of the trailer for not much money.
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Aug 5, 2018 12:07
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sharkytm posted:Or do what I do... Buy some galvanized plate or bar or angle/channel, and bolt that poo poo right over the existing structure. I've even welded it, just grind off the galvy, and then use cold galvanizing spray afterwards. Just wear a respirator and ventilate well. Ya, I weld it outside with an exhaust fan and a respirator. It's one of those things where once in a while isn't gonna kill you, it's long term exposure.
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Aug 6, 2018 00:09
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Humbug posted:After last years summer, this is probably the best time to sell. Will you be able to get berthing for a new boat easily if you go boatless for a while? That style of fuse is less than optimal, however you had the bad kind there. Those appear to be the aluminum style which corrode on contact with the copper/brass/whatever spring terminals that hold them. The correct fuses to use in those holders are the ones with copper end caps. Once I changed them all out in my my car, all my problems went away.
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Apr 30, 2019 11:34
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| # ¿ Apr 24, 2024 17:33 |
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The two best days of boat ownership. The day you buy it and the day you sell it.
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May 2, 2019 00:32
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