Herp Megathread 3: No one will come to my house

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Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Just got a PVC cage for my little ball python, flexwatt attached and running now to check temps and set thermostat probe. 93F setting gets around 88 inside the cage.. Wondering about substrate - paper towels for my convenience, or coco husk to keep the humidity level up.

# ¿ Feb 15, 2015 00:42

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 10:56

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Thanks for the advice.
The cage has a strong rubber/silicone smell so going to let it air out for a few days, wash it a few times with Healthy Habitat, and then rub the coco husk all over to try and get rid of the smell. Then will put in 1 brick coco husk, 2 hides, water bowl and some decor. It's only 2x2x1 which seems small but provides a lot of floor space for the little ball python.

Got the flexwatt taped down and temps are steady at 88-90 warm side and 75 on cool side, and it's in a cooler room now than where is will ultimately be placed..

No lighting and not sure if any is needed; there will be indirect sunlight during the day.

# ¿ Feb 15, 2015 12:58

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

HEY VAPER posted:

yay, my python came out! she's incredibly docile and playful, easily one of the most hands-on HERPS I've owned. About how long should I let her play around outside of her terrarium?

"she" is about 3ft long, still unsexed, and very active.

Also apparently my landlord snapped a photo inside my bedroom window of the enclosure and they're arguing that their "no pets" policy extends to contained animals. I'm not really worried about it though, I have security footage of the landlord taking said photo and I'm already building a lawsuit (for many many other reasons) for when my lease is up anyways~

Check your local bylaws. Where I live:

quote:

The Ontario Residential Tenancies Act says that any provision in a lease preventing pets is void.

Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 00:53 on Feb 18, 2015

# ¿ Feb 18, 2015 00:49

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

buffeh posted:

Hi, me again with the non feeding (but fat and heavy) female adult corn snake. She's been acting a bit weird this week. I got her some nice new Exoterra hides 3 weeks ago, a snake cave with a bottom for the cool side and a bottomless reptile cave for the warm side that allows direct contact with the heat mat. She used both unfailingly since I got them, always in one or the other unless she was out actively moving around / cruising the viv.

But this week since I tried to feed last Sunday, she stopped using the cool side cave, instead preferring to curl up round the back of it (there is a branch and some fake foliage but she's not exactly well hidden). She's also occasionally hung out in the middle of the viv, in plain sight, not moving, which is new to me. And this morning I found her curled up between her warm hide and the wall rather than in the hide like every other day. She's not concealed at all!

Anything to be concerned about, or is it just "snakes are weird sometimes"? We've only had her 3 months and never owned a snake before so what constitutes unusual behavior is hard for me to know. I've had the main light in the room on in the evening more to try and make her think it's later in the year so she might eat, but nothing else has changed.

After being pleased that she took to her new 'toys' so readily, my feelings are now hurt that she's stopped using them :/

Did you look in the hide? One time my ball python wouldn't go in and when trying to figure out why, lifted it up to find that he'd pooped in it.

# ¿ Feb 21, 2015 19:47

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

freelop posted:

Apologies for the rubbish photo but my phone refused to focus on him.

Is this normal behaviour for a royal python?
I'm still only in my second month of ownership so it might be normal but I wanted to check, he only started doing it last night.

The only other thing he's doing different it tasting the air for longer periods like he normally does during feeding.
Could he be hungry and should I break the usual pattern and feed him early?

Not only is it normal - if he can reach his head up to something, he can pull himself up onto it. Branches, ledges, bookshelf, top of the enclosure...they're not arboreal but when young can and will climb.

No reason to feed early.

dog days are over posted:

I'm interested in getting a royal (ball?) python at some point in the future because I've been told they're very good beginner snakes (and much prettier than corns or milks!) but the required equipment is a little confusing and overwhelming.. I've noticed loads of starter kits for snakes, but are these any good? Would something like this be appropriate for a baby? I know the viv shouldn't be too big for shy snakes, but I don't know if that brand of heat mat is decent or that thermostat. I also read that royals are better off with a bulb rather than a mat on one care sheet, and the opposite on another. Would a mat be appropriate while it's a baby, then switching to a bulb when it gets a new enclosure? Or will a bulb make the humidity too difficult to manage?

Royal pythons need belly heat (at around a steady 90F) to help them digest. How young is the snake you're going to get? Basically, and all the care sheets should agree, you want to provide a set up with a warm side and a cool side (and a hide in each area), so the snake can thermoregulate itself.

I think you'd be better off saving money for a proper set up and then buying the snake. A young ball python is fine in a large enclosure if you give it 2 hides, and lots of cover. Or you can just cut down the available area inside the enclosure.

Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 16:33 on Mar 29, 2015

# ¿ Mar 29, 2015 16:28

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Silver Nitrate posted:

I would say no because if a feeder bug eats the plant then the gecko eats it, that could be bad.

I sold some snakes, so I bought a lizard:

African fire skink, I'm going to try to make a bioactive setup with live plants and little bugs that eat poop.

Love those colours. Wish I hadn't seen this photo because now I want an African fire skink. How large do they grow?

# ¿ Mar 29, 2015 16:37

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Nice pics. I didn't get any photos last night. The room was dark and quiet when my ball python finally ate again after a month-long fast. Can't believe how relieved I felt after he struck the f/t weaned rat and proceeded to gulp it down.
He was noticeably thin and lacking in energy, so this feeding will help a lot.

# ¿ May 1, 2015 11:29

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

queserasera posted:

One of my relatives rescued a ball python and is upgrading the previous owner's starter tank to something better for the snake. Stupid question: do snakes get bored in the same tank with the same layout? I can understand upgrading quality of tank, heat sources, hiding spots, bedding (or whatever that is at the bottom of a tank), food and water, etc. Do snakes need toys?

I've only been around cats.

This is an interesting article:

http://jkrballstreetjournal.com/2014/02/12/the-psychology-of-problem-feeders-get-your-ball-python-eating-again/

The article is about dealing with bp's when they won't eat for a while but has other good info. Whenever I clean (roughly once per month) I'll vary the decor to give the snake a bit of novelty. But as Tashan Dorrsett says, the most important thing is to have a warm hide, cool hide, good sized bowl with fresh water every day, and correct husbandry (temp and humidity).

Snakes don't need toys or 'amusement' but it's good to take it out and handle it, let it stretch out and move around on the floor every few days. Just don't take your eyes off it, they can move pretty quick when they think you're not watching

Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 12:19 on May 4, 2015

# ¿ May 4, 2015 11:55

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

dog days are over posted:

URGH BLUGH I'm a dumb idiot ...
So, uh.. as much as I would seriously like to, I can't keep both of them forever because I can't imagine where I'm going to fit two 4ft vivs in the future. How long would you recommend I keep them and feed them up before letting them go to new homes? I can keep them for months if need be, no problem there. How long should they be consistently feeding?

I feel like I'm going to end up keeping at least one of them because I'm already so attached to them

Lesson learned: don't look at animals on online classifieds because you will want to save them

Thank you for getting them away from that negligent owner.

Instead of vivariums you could house them in stackable PVC cages!
I don't know exactly how long you should keep them but a few months will be enough for them to get up to healthy weight and have a few complete sheds..

# ¿ Jun 21, 2015 02:03

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Carthoris posted:

I'm getting a 10 year old male ball python from my from a friend soon. I'm also getting a 55 gallon tank to hold him in, but it has a mesh top. What I'm wondering is what is the best way to keep moisture in the tank? Also what is my best bet for humidifying the tank air?

I use something called Refliectix on top and put a flap of duct tape around the edges so there's a pretty good seal. Some people use aluminum fool wrapped around cardboard; some cut vinyl or plastic sheet to put on top of the lid.

I'd try to make the new setup as similar as possible to what that old snake is used to, eg same substrate, same hides, same feeding schedule, same UTH temperature.

This sprayer is great for misting and cage cleaning and a bunch of other uses.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/spray-maker-manual-pressure-sprayer-0593837p.html#.VbS48vn4-M8
$10 (or less) at hardware store in gardening section; $15 at pet store in a "For reptiles" box

Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 12:05 on Jul 26, 2015

# ¿ Jul 26, 2015 11:34

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Samila posted:

Post a picture if you want, or just describe the setup. Mainly you want to be sure the snake has a good temperature gradient, meaning that one side of the enclosure should be warmer than the other. I aim for 82 on the cold side and 89 on the hot side. I use a temp gun but you can use any thermometer with a probe. A cheap indoor/outdoor or aquarium thermometer would work fine, but not the kind you stick on the wall of the enclosure. You want to monitor the surface temperature, not the temp of the air in the enclosure.

The preferred heating method is heat tape or a mat under the enclosure. Ball pythons do not enjoy lights. They are not basking animals. UTH (under tank heat) sources, even those cheap mats from the pet store, need to be regulated because they will get way too hot if they're running full blast. A thermostat is ideal but you can get by with a plug-in lamp dimmer, using it to adjust the heat down to an appropriate level.

Humidity is important too. If you can't keep the enclosure humid enough, the snake will have difficulty shedding. Around 60% is good. You can raise humidity by misting, switching to a larger water bowl, using a damper substrate (cypress, jungle mix, etc. as opposed to dry aspen or paper), or adding a humid hide filled with damp moss when you see a shed coming.

Maintaining proper temperature and humidity can be very difficult if you're using an aquarium with a screen lid. Which is one reason why I prefer to use tubs.

Apart from that, be sure the snake has at least two hides, one on the cold side and one on the hot side. They're most comfortable in hides that are very snug, with a single opening. A lot of people try to set up ball pythons as display animals with lots of cage decorations, but a happy ball python will usually spend the majority of its time in a hide and you won't see it anyway. Cage decorations like branches, fake plants, etc. might look nice but they'll make cleaning a real pain in the rear end. You're better off just keeping it simple.

With only one snake, it doesn't really take much longer during the monthly cleaning to wash plants and decor along with the hides and water bowl. I put everything into a plastic tub and clean them all at the same time.
2 hides, water dish, 3 pieces of wood, small piece of slate, a few plastic plants. Clean that stuff and the enclosure while waiting for the coconut husk bricks to absorb water.
The whole process takes around an hour, once per month.

And since the snake spends most of his time hidden, might as well have a nice, colourful enclosure to look at.

Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Aug 9, 2015

# ¿ Aug 9, 2015 14:06

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Hazo posted:

Do you use any sort of soap or bleach or do you just hand rinse everything? I've been maintaining a dwarf frog enclosure by putting everything into an industrial sink and just using the scouring side of a dish sponge to scrub off the algae. For the gravel, though, I put it in a colander and add a couple drops of hand soap before thoroughly rinsing it. Seems to be working well so far and I'd like to see if the same applies to the larger herps (I'm looking to get a snake display soon).

I put everything in a tub, and put that in bathtub, and fill the plastic tub with water. Drain. Then spray each item with Healthy Habitat, wipe down, rinse with water, wipe down to remove any residue, rinse again with water and leave to dry.
While that's drying I clean enclosure similar method (rinse with water, clean with HH, rinse with water) and then put in fresh substrate.

http://naturalchemistry.com/en/pet-home/products/detail/healthy-habitat/

Might pick up F10 next time I'm at reptile store and use that when I run out of the Healthy Habitat but at 1 cleaning every 4 weeks (or when he poops/sheds), this bottle is going to last for several more months.

Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 12:26 on Aug 11, 2015

# ¿ Aug 11, 2015 12:23

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Last night my ball python farted so loud at 2:00 am it work me up. And I had to clean up the messy poop that was left behind..

queserasera posted:

Herp Megathread 3: Everyone Poops on Wednesday

http://m.imgur.com/gallery/IIXZl

quote:

The most noticeable thing about Ball Pythons are the little holes right above their mouth. That's their nose.

I don't think that's right. They are heat pits.

# ¿ Aug 15, 2015 20:48

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

You should give him another hide (1 on warm side, 1 on cool side) and more coverage.

freelop posted:

Good to know thanks

Planning on picking up a new viv today as what he has is a small tub.
Should give him a few more places to hide in

edit: Picked it up

:3

# ¿ Aug 24, 2015 11:51

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

freelop posted:

The skull is on the cold side and the cave is on the warm side. There are also a few more cardboard tubes dispersed about.
What would be good for coverage?

The skull is a nice decoration but not a hide. A ball python isn't going to feel any security curling up in something with so many holes and openings.
Not sure why you put cardboard tubes in your snake enclosure or what their purpose it. Did someone at a pet store recommend that?

Good coverage is anything the snake can get into or under so he can't easily be seen. Fake vines, cork wood tunnels and flats, cave-like structures, clutter.

Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 13:02 on Aug 25, 2015

# ¿ Aug 25, 2015 12:54

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Interesting survey on herps, was directed to it by a posting from USARK. Takes about 10 minutes to answer the questions:

https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/2015SWCHR

# ¿ Aug 27, 2015 11:16

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Went to allreptiles.com Friday after work and picked up this thermostat for 1 year anniversary with Mr Burrows.

Then I got home and fed him. Going to wait until Sunday to get him out of tank, lift it up, set the probe in place and dial in the temp. Will probably set 2 Celsius degree night drop.

Need to get some photos too, he's grown considerably in the past 12 months.

Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 12:18 on Aug 29, 2015

# ¿ Aug 29, 2015 12:16

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

New leopard ball python and she's a handful. Around 7 months old.

Got her 3 weeks ago, has had 3 pinky rats and today I scoped her out of the enclosure for a short handling session.

# ¿ Nov 15, 2015 05:07

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Guava posted:

By the way, can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong with heat pads? Technically undertank heaters, although I mount mine on the side of the tank because that's supposedly safer. I have NEVER been able to get the warm sides of my tanks to a proper temperature using just a UTH, yet everyone says they're better to use than lamps, so I assume it works for some people. I'd much rather just use the pads because lamps are easier to knock over and dry everything out. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

It's an undertank heater, it should be under the tank. As has been stated it only heats the surface it is contacting. And requires a thermostat. This is the one I use:

Snake such as ball python needs belly warmth so putting the heat on the side of the tank isn't going to do much. 92 is the temp the thermostat is set to; it loses a couple of degrees when transferring heat through glass. The surface of the glass floor inside the terrarium is checked with heat gun and is mostly constant 90 during the day.

Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Dec 12, 2015

# ¿ Dec 12, 2015 14:42

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

For further clarification: UTH (black) is set against the bottom of terrarium. Thermostat probe is held in place on the UTH with aluminum (heat proof) tape, directly under the area of the warm hide since that's where the snake spends most of its time.

# ¿ Dec 12, 2015 15:02

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Agent Escalus posted:

I grew up with birds (our cockatiel, Tonto, lived from 1992-2011) and I'm thinking of getting a bearded dragon in lieu of a ball python as BDs have greater intelligence and more defined personalities in comparison.

How dare you!

The big difference is that balls are crepuscular (active around twilight and dawn) which is not good for people who want to interact with (or see) their pet during daylight hours.

# ¿ Feb 3, 2016 13:11

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

my cat is norris posted:

Regarding ball pythons -- Salazar's eyes went all cloudy a week ago, but he hasn't started to shed yet. Is that normal? Is he being slow about it because of the time of year? Should we feed him, or wait until he's done getting rid of his skin?

Yes that's normal. Shedding always feels like it is taken longer than it should. And winter air is dry so keep the moisture level up.
I'm no expert but they often poop around the same time as shedding so you might as well wait, clean up after the shed and then feed.

# ¿ Feb 4, 2016 01:29

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Cleaned the enclosure last night and took the opportunity to weigh my little buddy - 850 grams and still growing.

# ¿ May 9, 2016 12:53

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

TwystNeko posted:

So, my girlfriend just called me. She found the snake dead today, belly up and rigid.

I had handled her Sunday evening, and had noticed her wheezing a bit, but thought it was because she still had a lot of leftover shed on her head. I guess I should have found a herp vet in town and gotten her looked at.

So sorry about that.

# ¿ May 14, 2016 20:21

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

quote:

a hygrotherm temperature and humidity controller, a smaller hide, a bigger water bowl, a correctly sized undertank heater and a digital thermometer/hygrometer.
My plan is to put a set for monitoring on the cool side of his tank and put the sensor for an actual controller on the hot side and let it switch the heating pad on and off and maybe run a humidifier if I find his humidity level hard to maintain by misting.

Good start. You probably don't need a humidifier. "Misting" is kind of a misnomer; when the air is dry or when the snake is in shed I do more like gentle rain twice a day.

First priority: You need a thermostat for the UTH. I don't know the Hygrotherm but don't run an under-tank heater without a controller, you can end up hurting or burning the snake. I know you want to get everything at once but BPs can live a long long time, so consider your expenses as an investment. A Viviarium Electronics or Herpstat thermosat is expensive but will give you more peace of mind in the long run. You don't need this immediately but eventually.

If the hide is too big, push it down into the aspen substrate so there is less open space inside it. Should be okay until smaller hide arrives.

Cheap dial thermometers are not accurate and a waste of money. These temp guns are really handy to have:
https://www.amazon.ca/BENETECH%C2%A...temperature+gun
Take the temperature of the glass under the Aspen. Take temperature of the outside of the hide. Take the temperature of the rats when you are thawing them out! Much better value than the stick-on dial types.
And when you get it, easily calibrate or check its accuracy with an ice cube and boiling water.

For misting and cleaning, you can pick up a pump sprayer for around $10 at a hardware store, usually in the gardening department. Or maybe through Amazon. Something like this:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/spray-maker-manual-pressure-sprayer-0593837p.html

Track your snake! Use Excel or whatever you want and keep a record of when you feed it, when it sheds, when it pees and poops, when you clean the enclosure, handling sessions. And how much it weighs, with a small digital kitchen scale. They can cost around $15.

# ¿ Jul 13, 2016 13:19

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

If the top screen is not held firmly down, the snake will eventually get out!
Now I am no expert, and as I said you don't have to do everything at the beginning. This is the enclosure after a few years of trials and tribulations. The plastic plants are good for misting, I soak them and then the water can drip/evaporate for a while.
There's wallpaper wrapped around the sides and back, and over that is Reflectix. Also on the top, with cut out areas for lamp and for ventilation. There's a red and white bulb; most of the time I only use the white one when cleaning LOL. Rarely use it for heat but winters do get cold up here in Canada. I like the Reflectix but there are many other options. In theory, the air warms on the left side with the warm hide, and vents out the hole on the right.

There's a lot of clutter with 2 hides and the 2 back corners clear, he has several options. It takes more effort to spot clean and full clean but I only have 2 snakes so don't mind, and when he gets bigger I can remove some of the decor. For feeding I remove either the cool hide in the middle or the water bowl and use the open area to dangle his dinner.

Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 01:12 on Jul 14, 2016

# ¿ Jul 14, 2016 00:48

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Yes you're on the right track. BPs are hardy, as long as temp and humidity are on point it will be okay in a quiet dark area.
When I first started out, was using a $15 lamp dimmer switch to control the UTH and another for the light and taking the temperature of the floor of the enclosure twice a day. Not recommending this but the snake was okay.

# ¿ Jul 15, 2016 00:43

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Handsome Ralph posted:

What is that you're using for the top of your tank to insulate heat? Looks like one of those car windshield heat reflectors?

My girlfriend and I are looking at something to insulate the top of the tank (it's still just mesh right now), she was thinking of getting some plexiglass cut for it, but that looks like a much better solution.

I went to a large Home Depot and spent a lot of time looking for something to use - ceramic floor tiles, acrylic (plexiglass), window coverings, and then on a back wall, high up among other insulation material found this stuff, called Reflectix�. Any big hardware store should have it.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.bubble-pack-2x10.1000407996.html

dog days are over posted:

My two leopard gecko girls have been living in a styrofoam cave for a few months that I kept meaning to grout and paint and make all pretty-lookin', but that would've involved taking it away from them for a week or so to ensure it was all dry before giving it back and they love it so much I just couldn't bring myself to do it. I put two entrances in it and they both sit half-in, half-out of each entrance snoozing or watching the world go by, it's adorable.

Out of guilt for them having an unfinished hide I bought this amazing looking thing: http://wimblettproducts.co.uk/collections/frontpage/products/fossil-reptile-hide-cave-climbing-rock-for-gecko-snake-lizard-spider

Hopefully they like it because I think it looks awesome. I might swap out their reptile carpet and replace it with something a little sandier.. I was wondering if maybe pouring sand onto the sticky side of adhesive vinyl tiles would be alright? That way the adhesive would be covered in sand, and the sand wouldn't be loose and so they couldn't ingest it. Wonder if it'd be harder to clean than the carpet.

Yes that does look nice. That Wimblett site has pretty good selection and a 10% discount code.

Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 13:39 on Jul 31, 2016

# ¿ Jul 31, 2016 13:35

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

cheese posted:

I guess I will piggyback off Evilcat - I am a high school teacher who has been given the green light to have some reptiles/amphibians in my classroom. Its been years since I have had any herps, but I successfully kept bearded dragons, garter snakes and a variety of other things when I was younger. The first thing that came to mind for ease of care, appropriate size and temperment, cost and a host of other factors was a ball python. I believe I have a good grasp of the basics of ball python care. My question is really about taking care of it in the classroom.

1) Heating during the weekend/they day. My class stays pretty cold since I usually have the AC blasting, and I have only limited control over how the temperature fluctuates during the night/weekends. Should a decent under tank heater + ceramic heat source with a nice thermostat be ok? Classroom feels dry so a good sized water bowl + cypress fibers + a lib that is partially solid seems like it would probably be enough to maintain humidity.

2) The noise and traffic of a busy classroom is my other concern. Its an alt-ed high school program and I have kids who are loud. My thinking there was to inquire with local breeders or herp stores and see if anyone has an adult with a good personality and a strong feeding response they would be willing to part with. I don't want to go through the hassle and heartache of getting a picky juvenile who can't handle the stress.

Thanks in advance!

Like Catnipped said, you should consider getting one that is active during the day like a corn, milk or king snake.

Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 11:54 on Aug 15, 2016

# ¿ Aug 15, 2016 11:52

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

This week I was taking a medium f/t rat out of the freezer bag with tongs in one hand and it slipped and THE FROZEN RAT TOUCHED MY HAND for a second.

I know it's all psychological but still freaked me out. I mean when you really think about it, handling frozen chicken legs or forming ground beef into a burger patty should be more 'disgusting' but I had to go and thoroughly scrub my hands immediately after that calamitously traumatic event. LOL.

And the actual feeding is great, it looks like there's no way the rat is going to fit into that little mouth and the thin throat of a ball python, but with some effort and muscle contractions it gets worked all the way down.

Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Aug 27, 2016

# ¿ Aug 27, 2016 16:26

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Brody was really active around noon yesterday which was quite strange. So I did a complete cage cleaning, put her back in and she was still hyper. I left the door open and she exited without hesitation. Nothing in the environment has changed so I'm hoping she's just hungry and a med. rat tonight will get her to calm back down.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NpKU8UawmOo

# ¿ Sep 12, 2016 11:42

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Atasuki is the brand name. 36x18x20 Very well built.

Binary Logic fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Sep 13, 2016

# ¿ Sep 13, 2016 01:59

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Also have a PVC cage and it's not significantly better for humidity. And it's a little more intimidating to reach in and take him out.

# ¿ Sep 14, 2016 03:27

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Good idea adding more air holes to PVC enclosure, wish I'd thought of that.

# ¿ Sep 14, 2016 11:39

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

/\ Nice looking. How big do they grow?

Artsygrrl posted:

He's adorable!

This is Vicky, a Brazilian Rainbow Boa.

Saw one in local reptile store a few months ago, they are beautiful.

# ¿ Nov 12, 2016 14:35

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Yeah must have had an itch. My BP was on tv last night LOL.
Let her out to wander around and explore, then put her on bookshelf. After a while she decided to get off the shelf by crawling onto the tv. It's only about 1/4 inch wide at the top and I stayed on alert expecting a fall but she crawled all the way across and off the other side.

# ¿ Nov 19, 2016 16:42

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

my cat is norris posted:

I've NEVER seen my boyfriend's ball python do this before:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-w6OyWFGmzU

The self-dunking I've seen, of course, but him rubbing his face so hard against the glass was strange. I took him out and checked him over, and I see no additional signs of respiratory issues. Just a moment of odd snek behavior, or possibly something else? He does have a little bit of a wheeze, which you might hear in the video. He's ALWAYS had a very slight wheeze.

Took another look at the video in fullscreen. Might want to check out what appears to be bumps on the jaw. Might be nothing, it's hard to tell.

# ¿ Nov 19, 2016 16:51

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

The part of the head he was scratching looks like stuck shed or loose scales to me, but as I said it's hard to tell.

# ¿ Nov 20, 2016 18:11

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Owlbear Camus posted:

Krayt dragons were giant carnivorous reptiles that came in two subspecies: the smaller and more common canyon krayt, and the larger greater krayt.[1] Due to their large size and ferocity, they were the apex predators of Tatooine.[3] Their bodies produced krayt venom, which helped the dragons as an acid in pre-digestion of their food.[4]

Seeing this makes me want to up my cage-top diorama game.

Electric Bugaloo posted:

Sorry, but I refuse to believe that any terrarium CC, no matter how sufficiently established, is capable of adequately disappearing an uneaten rodent carcass. Unless your snake�s enclosure is, like, an isopod hellworld like a scene from The Mummy.

I will second that a bioactive substrate may be a better choice for OP�s snake than straight coco fiber tho.

snake and bake posted:

Agreed. I'm absolutely disgusted by the idea of having an enclosure full of dirt, bugs, and slowly decomposing snake poo poo (and dead rodents too? Are you loving kidding?)

I keep my enclosures as sterile as possible.

Same.

# ¿ Apr 27, 2019 16:13

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# ¿ Apr 25, 2024 10:56

Binary Logic: Dec 28, 2000; Fun Shoe

Mr Burrows decided to shed in this shape which I might put some clear sealant on and use as a dish or serving tray.

# ¿ Apr 21, 2020 10:29

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Pet Island > Herp Megathread 3: No one will come to my house