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~Welcome to the jungle, we got frogs and snakes~   Big Centipede posted:This is going to be a general thread for everyone from beginners to advanced keepers, so don't be afraid to ask questions. Advanced keepers, be nice to newbies, everyone has to start somewhere. I don't give a gently caress if you have a colony of luecy Boelens pythons in a house sized vivarium, I don't want to see anyone giving people poo poo for liking beginner-level animals. You're not better than anyone just because you breed Amazon tree boas instead of cornsnakes. Shut up and leave the elitism at the door. God, why? A lot of people are drawn to herps because they’re unusual and unique, and some people have just always been fascinated with scaly, slimy things (me included). Most beginner species are pretty low-maintenance compared to other pets, and some of them can be set up and kept very simply and inexpensively. They don’t require human interaction or have the social needs of a cat or a dog. My snakes couldn’t give less of a gently caress if I bothered them at all, as long as I fed them occasionally. They can also be pretty addictive. I started with one snake in 2005 and have worked with a cornucopia of species all the way from Corns to Woma. I was also one of the first breeders of Boiga cyanea (Green Blue-eyed Catsnakes) in the USA. I'm actually getting out of the herp game due to lifestyle shifts, but they are still a passion of mine.  Goon Gurus: Shoot these guys a line if you need some advice or have questions~
OneTwentySix - Salamanders, Newts, Dart frogs Sweet CupnCakes - Burmese pythons and other large snakes Pardalis - Chameleons Bobbaganoosh - Snakes, field herping, southwest US reptile species Hood Ornament - Snakes, basic veterinary care, and basic genetics Where to get a scaly, slimy thing: Pet stores are best to be avoided for buying animals. Many pet store animals are wild-caught, bought from large-scale importers, or are being kept improperly. Pet store employees are also really good at giving bad advice. I suggest buying from a private breeder at a reptile show or online. You will have to pay shipping if you buy online, but it’s nice knowing that you’re getting a captive-bred animal from a reputable breeder. (I know that breeders can also mislead and outright lie to people, which is another reason why it’s so important to do your own research!) You can usually find a local show via Google, or look to see if Repticon is anywhere near you. There are actually quite a few reptile rescues around, as well. Tell me your secrets, turtle. Most herps have the same basic needs: Food, heat/humidity, light, and enrichment. Food is obviously pretty important, as trying to feed your ball python some veggies will not go over too well. Make sure you do research on the best food/prey for your animal, and always try to avoid feeding live prey. Live mice and crickets can seriously injure or kill a herp. Go ahead and google “live feeding snakes” if you want to see some hosed up poo poo. If you’re feeding live insects, make sure you don’t dump in more than your critter can eat in one sitting to avoid them getting cricket-nibbled. Many turtles, lizards, and geckos need a varied diet of veggies and insects, or special gecko diet. Your critter might also need nutrient or mineral supplements. Big Centipede posted:“True story, I once dumped 40 crickets and a weaned rat in a cage with a cane toad (believe me, it could eat that much), well apparently it wasn't hungry enough that night to come out of the substrate and I was greeted with a now eyeless weaned rat with all the flesh eaten from it's arms, tail, and weenie. Crickets are surprisingly hardcore and will gang up to gently caress poo poo up.” Since herps are cold-blooded, they will need a heat source in order to digest their food. NEVER USE HEAT ROCKS. They are unreliable and can burn your pets. Undertank heat pads are a good choice because they help create a heat gradient without drying out a tank as much as a lamp would. However, high-temp animals and desert-dwellers will do better with a lamp. Many critters will also need a special UVA/UVB bulb or they can develop metabolic bone disease, which is disfiguring and can be fatal. We will cover UVA/UVB in greater detail further down. Make sure that you have thermometers and that all your heat sources are placed on a rheostat/thermostat to regulate your temps! There are a lot of options out there, from lamp-dimmers to very fancy multi-zone controls with night drops and alarms. Enrichment usually covers things like hides, burrowing substrate, things to climb, and other things that stimulate your animal or make them feel secure. Again, this is usually species-specific. A pacman frog will not utilize climbing vines, and a GTP will give no fucks about a 3” deep substrate bed. Beginner species If you're thinking about getting a reptile or amphibian, consider these species a good starting point. Lots of good caresheets can be found via Google, but make sure to check over several different sources for the best information.  SNAKES:
- Most Kings: Mexican/San Luis Potosi/Thayeri/Nuevo Leon (L. mexicana) Florida/Desert/California/Black (L. getula ) NOTE: Not the Mountain Kings (L. pyromelana and L. zonata) , Gray-Banded Kings not already well-started on rodents (L. alterna) , or Scarlet King (L. elapsoides) . - Milk Snakes: Honduran/Nelson’s/Eastern (L. triangulum ) - Rosy/Rubber/Sand Boas (Charina and Gongylophis species) - Captive-bred African House Snakes (Several species, mostly Boaedon capensis) - New World Rat Snakes (Pantherophis and Bogertophis) NOTE: Some can be ornery and defensive, especially as babies! - Gopher/Pine/Bull Snakes (Pituophis species) NOTE: Some of these get larger than most beginner snakes - Western/Mexican Hognose Snakes (Heterodon nasicus) NOTE: Rear-fanged and slightly venomous - Ball/Royal Pythons (Python regius) NOTE: Can be problem feeders - Children's/Spotted Pythons (Antaresia species) LIZARDS:
-gargoyle geckos (Rhacodactylus auriculatus) -leopard geckos (Eublepharis macularius) -fat tailed geckos (Hemitheconyx caudicinctus) -blue tongued skinks (Tiliqua species) -fire skinks (Riopa fernandi) -bearded and Rankin's dragons (Pogona species)  TARANTULAS:
-most Grammostola species -most Brachypelma species -most Captive Bred Aphonopelma species -most Avicularia species (though they are arboreal, can jump, and throw poop at your face) -Chromatopelma cyaneopubscens (greenbottle blue) -Acanthoscurria geniculata (Brazilian black and white) -Lasiodora parahybana (salmon birdeater, these get large and their urticating bristles can be rough for some people) SCORPIONS:
-flat rock scorpion FROGS:
-green/gray tree frog -red eyed tree frog -tomato frog -chubby frog -Pacman frogs (Ceratophrys sp) -African clawed frog -most American toad species - fire-bellied toads (bombina sp.) most are WC but they are very hardy -Most of the larger Dendrobates spp. are good beginner frogs; D. auratus, D. leucomelas, and D. tinctorius especially, along with the Phyllobates. (DendroBoard is a good dart frog resource) SALAMANDERS:
Spanish ribbed newts (Pleurodeles waltl) Common crested newt species (Triturus spp.) Firebelly newts (Cynops spp.) choose healthy captive bred/non-pet store ones! Smaller sirens (Siren i. intermedia, Pseudobranchus spp.) (Caudata is a good salamander site.) Non-beginner species/annoying crap species that will drive you insane: By Big Centipede Before buying any animal, make sure you research the poo poo out of it. Ask yourself "will I be able to properly care for this cute little lavender retic when it's 18 ft long and leaving 7 pound shits in its 50 gallon water dish?" or "will my grandkids really want to inherit this huge rear end sulcata digging up their sprinkler systems 60 years from now?". Big snakes, monitors, tegus, and tortoises aren't for everyone, and I'd hazard to guess that probably 90% of the people out there that own them probably shouldn't. Same goes for hots, but that should go without saying. Here are some reptiles that are not for beginners, but are commonly sold in pet stores: Anoles: These are like $6 at most petstores, and I'd wager these little guys were many of you advanced keepers first unfortunate pets. Anoles require very specific temperature and humidity levels, lots and lots of room, high ventilation, UVB light, and are highly prone to stress. Honestly, unless you're an advanced keeper with a soft spot for anoles, these make better feeders than pets. Iguanas: These can get over 5ft and require HUGE cages to live properly. Also, out of the countless adult iguanas I've been around in my life, I've only seen ONE tame one. They have very specific environmental and dietary requirements that can be challenging to meet. Basically, to care for one properly would be very expensive and demanding, and there's no promise it won't remain mean as poo poo. WC Ball Pythons: CB Ball Pythons are among the best beginner snakes, but wild caught ones are a different story. Luckily, these are becoming less common in petsores due to the huge number of people breeding them, but some stores still carry them. WC balls are great if you want a heavily parasitized snake that will never eat for you and eventually die though. Chameleons (especially WC ones): CB Chameleons are demanding captives that require very specific temperature, humidity, and ventilation levels to thrive. They are also very prone to stress. WC are everything above with parasites and the stress of being captured and imported thrown on top. Big Snakes (burms, retics, anacondas, African rocks, scrubs, etc): Most of these snakes aren't particularly hard to care for in terms of temps and humidity, the problem comes with their size. These snakes require huge cages 8'x4' is MINIMUM for most adults and many will require significantly more. There's also feeding... these snakes are going to need 1 or more large rabbits per feeding, which is not very cheap. They're also nasty (especially anacondas) and their cages will require serious cleaning every week. Not to mention that an adult could easily loving kill you. Tokay Geckos: Super cheap and beautiful, lots of people make the mistake of buying one of these on impulse, completely unaware that a gecko can be psychotic. Personally, I love tokays, but they're definitely not for beginners. There are few herps out there more pissed off and aggressive than the tokay gecko, and at 10 inches, they can really loving hurt if you get bit. I had one literally tear a dime-sized chuck of skin off my knuckle one because I had the audacity to reach in it's cage to change its water dish. They're also nearly all imported and full of parasites. Monitors: Many grow very large, can be aggressive, require very high heat, and will eat you out of house and home. Also, I personally know a guy who saw a croc monitor (V. salvadorii) bite a guy and peel the skin of his arm down like a banana peel. Crocodilians: Do I really need to explain this one? Terminology By Big Centipede You'll sometimes see people put numbers in front of animals (ex: 1.1 ball pythons), what these are are ways of conveying the number and sexes of the animals, like this: 1.0 means 1 male 0.1 means 1 female 0.0.1 means one animal of unknown sex 0.0.0.1 isn't used very often, but it denotes incubating eggs. so, 1.2.3.4 ball pythons would mean 1 male, 2 females, 3 unsexed, and 4 eggs incubating. Morph: Basically a generic term for a genetic mutation, like amelanism or axanthic. Amelanistic: means it lacks black pigment. Think albino. Anerythristic: lacking red pigment. A normally red and black animal would look white and black. Axanthic: no yellow pigment. There's lots of designer morphs that are combinations of these and other mutations. For example, the "snow" morph is generally a combination of the Amelanistic and Anerythristic mutations. Het: short for "heterozygous". means the animal carries, but does not exhibit the gene for whichever morph. Homozygous: means the animal exhibits a particular mutation. An albino ball python is homozygous for albinism. A whole thread could be devoted to explaining genetics, and maybe we'll go more into that later. WC: Wild Caught, means just like it sounds. Farm Raised or Captive Hatched: [/b]Fancy way of saying wild caught or eggs salvaged from a skinning operation. CB: Captive Bred by a hobbyist of breeder... if given the choice, always choose a captive bred animal over a wild caught one, even though it will be more expensive. "Rear-Fanged": The proper word is "Opisthoglyphic". Many snakes have enlarged rear teeth coupled with primitive venom glands. Many snakes you wouldn't think are technically venomous, like garter snakes. Most "rear-fanged" snakes are harmless to humans, there's only a handful of rear-fanged snakes that have cause human fatalities like boomslangs, African twig snake, and I believe some species of African sand snake also has caused deaths.  UVA/UVB for Diurnal Herps (Thanks Pardalis) Animals that are awake and active during the day require specialty lighting to provide the UVA and UVB rays that allow them to produce vitamin D3 and utilize the calcium in their diets. Without these lights or with the wrong ones, animals will suffer a number of permanent ailments including calcium deficiency, metabolic bone disease (advanced calcium deficiency affecting bone growth and density), organ shut down, and death. Some reptiles may also go on hunger strikes and have their eyesight rapidly degrade with the wrong type of lighting. It is critically important to provide the proper type of lighting to diurunal herps and to pay attention to what they do with it. Hopefully I can make this simple because there are a lot of products on the market that are downright dangerous. Always practice common sense; check your temps before adding animals, recheck again after they are added, and observe their habits. Requirements vary for different species so always recheck your parameters before purchasing your bulbs. I have found that species specific forums are great places to research your pets and find which lights work best for them. UVA rays comes from pretty much any type of "white" or "yellow" light. You can use a regular incandescent bulb as a source of heat as well as UVA. UVA stimulates appetite among other things. UVB is more of our concern when discussing herp husbandry. The cheapest place to purchase UVB lighting that I have found is lllreptile.com. I bulk order bulbs, get a discount, and test them all when they arrive before storing them. They also price match so if you find a better price, let them know! Here are the basics to UVB: All UVB bulbs are not created equal! Okay, look. I am too lazy to type out all the exact findings and reasons I have for saying this (source material starting but not ending here ), but basically there is currently only one specific bulb on the market worth buying: Zoomed Reptisun Linear Fluorescent (2.0, 5.0, or 10.0) This bulb is the standard fluoro tube that comes in a variety of lengths from 12" to 4 feet. The 2.0 is for rain forest species that need low levels of UVB such as dart frogs, pygmy chameleons, and some snakes. The 5.0 is ideal for most chameleons, iguanas, anoles, and anything warmly tropical. The 10.0 is for desert species such as tortoises, bearded dragons, and uromastyx. This is your best bet for rack systems because you can use one 4 foot UVB bulb with one 4 foot regular fluorescent bulb in a $10 double bulb fixture from any home improvement store. Depending on the species you keep, you will most likely need to pair this bulb next to a regular heat lamp (any incandescent bulb will be fine) to encourage basking and to provide a temperature gradient. Keep your lights on a timer to conserve their life and to keep your pets on a schedule I have found that animals stress without a regular light cycle. It will also allow you to control breeding seasons reliably as you can increase or decrease the photoperiod season to season to match wild conditions. Timers are super cheap at IKEA. You need to provide a usable, inviting basking spot Observe your animal and figure out where best to place the basking area. You want to make sure that your pet is drawn to the spot and has a good place to sit and soak up the rays. The easiest way to draw an animal to bask under a linear fluorescent UVB tube is to have your heat lamp as close to the UVB strip as possible. Test your temps with a heat gun or probe thermometer to make sure the spot is at your ideal high temperature (and no more!) and position a perch under both bulbs. Your pet should be drawn to bask under both lights by the heat from the incandescent bulb as well as the rays from the UVB. If your animal doesn't actively bask, you should watch them and figure out how to make their environment more comfortable so that they will. If you are using a mercury vapor bulb, it will provide both heat and UVB. UVB emitting bulbs have a limited lifespan and need to be replaced regularly The general rule is that the Zoomed linear fluorescent Reptisun tubes last around 6 months. If you have a UVB meter, you can test the output and replace the bulb when needed, otherwise just change it at the end of month 6. The mercury vapor bulbs typically last a year and a half or possibly longer but I have seen it debated if these are even safe to use. Used bulbs that no longer emit enough UVB for herps make great lights for aquariums and used as normal house fluoros. I know some keepers who start with a 10.0 and let it degrade until they use it on a 5.0 tank, and then finally a 2.0 tank. Very economical. UVB rays only penetrate a few inches into an enclosure and are blocked by glass and plastic For the fluorescent bulbs, you need to position them ideally within 6-10 inches above where the animal will be basking. The UVB rays don't penetrate further. UVB will not go through glass or acrylic so lights should be placed over screen. The bulb will do your pet no use if they can't get close enough to it to soak up UVB rays. We cannot replicate nature Even the best bulbs don't put out as much usable UVB as the sun does on an overcast day. Bulbs degrade, they only go so deep, and the sun is the best thing that you can give to your reptiles. You have to be very careful about how you do this, but taking the animals out to bask in real sun on nice days is one of the greatest things you can do for their health. You absolutely have to monitor temperatures like crazy during this and don't ever put an animal or enclosure in direct sun. They will still get a ton of UVB in the shade. Be very sure that your caging is secure if you put your animals outside and don't put glass tanks out because they are basically ovens. Always provide a source of cool drinking water or mist while the animals are out. Drippers work especially well for this. Compact fluorescent UVB bulbs are dangerous and should never be used! These bulbs are sold under a few brands but all of them should be avoided. They are the "compact" coiled fluorescent bulbs that screw into a regular clamp lamp. You may be tempted to use them for this reason, but they emit a dangerous amount of UVC radiation. UVC breaks down eyesight and can blind reptiles over surprisingly short periods of exposure. It also can leave nasty radiation burns if an animal gets too close. More info can be added as needed - but for now, let's see those critters! 
Aphelion Necrology fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Jan 18, 2015 |
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Jan 18, 2015 04:18
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I'm on some dumb poo poo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6VxV717PRBU Aphelion Necrology fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Jan 19, 2015 |
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Jan 18, 2015 04:22
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Leperflesh posted:Suggest adding fire-bellied toads (bombina spp., especially orientalis) to the beginner frogs list; they're cheap, hardy, easy to set up, active, somewhat charismatic (compared to other frogs, anyway), and they have a nice call. I could have sworn I had them listed up there already - but I guess not! Added, and thanks!
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Jan 18, 2015 19:22
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Silver Nitrate posted:Frogs are cool. You should add in the pacman type of frogs too. I have one frog, she is a dwarf pixie. Pixies are also pretty easy to take care of but the giant ones get very big so maybe not a beginner animal. I've always loved the giant pixies, personally, and all giant frogs/toads. Added to OP  I mean come on. How can you not want like 12 of these? Aphelion Necrology fucked around with this message at 23:41 on Jan 18, 2015 |
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Jan 18, 2015 21:04
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thumbtax posted:I have always fed my snakes in feed boxes or on newspaper outside of the enclosure, but I've recently learned that this is totally old school and out of fashion. Is everybody really feeding inside the enclosure? Using frozen/thawed mice & rats, I am afraid of them making a nasty mess everywhere, and I like hand feeding my guys anyway (not with my actual hands though). But I went half-way the other day, put the snake in a plastic open-top container with the food while inside the tank, it actually worked out pretty well and kept mouse guts from getting all over the place. I've always fed in-cage but like what you tried - putting the food in a second container inside the enclosure. I always felt it was less stressful and I've had more successful feeds this way.
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Jan 19, 2015 04:43
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Chido posted:I kinda feel this should be in the OP I'll put it in the dumb 2nd post
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Jan 19, 2015 23:37
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Hey I have a herp tattoo. Done by resident goon Toast Face Killa
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Jan 19, 2015 23:47
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Karjia posted:oh hay dats my Bicolor Yeah, what are you going to do with her anyway edit: i suggest flushing her down the toilet Aphelion Necrology fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Jan 20, 2015 |
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Jan 20, 2015 03:21
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the yeti posted:*feeds in enclosure* That's a true story, I sawed it with my eyes. So much blood in the carpet.
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Jan 20, 2015 03:46
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Karjia posted:That's Big Cheese, and they're local to me so I have actually been inside their facility and it's really nice. I buy from them too - cheaper and nicer than RodentPro, in my experience.
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Jan 20, 2015 04:33
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Pragmatica posted:You got the herps in this thread. Oh poo poo! I tried using the cream the doc gave me, but it seems to have spread.
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Jan 20, 2015 20:50
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Fluffy Bunnies posted:I get my rodents from a local guy. He doesn't ship. This post is very helpful. Good job ms. bunnies. Does he catch them himself? Support local farms and you can ensure that they are organic and gluten-free.
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Jan 21, 2015 02:49
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It's a general umbrella of gross pets that only creepy weirdos have. I should include bats since they are also bugs.
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Jan 21, 2015 21:24
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Bobbaganoosh posted:Pretty animal, Eggs! This is a good post. Also, I've seen some snakes that had bad RI's or multiple RIs and even after they recovered they sort of...sounded lovely forever? Definitely see what your Vet says, but you might just have to rename him Wheezy.
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Jan 22, 2015 00:51
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They tested positive at one of their facilities for LCMV in 2012 - as far as I know only 14 customers may have received contaminated mice? The big issue was that RP really poo poo the bed as far as their reaction to the situation. They didn't inform those customers or anyone, until the CDC basically made a public report about it. By then, two months had passed, and at least one of the possibly infected customers was a reseller so...
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Jan 22, 2015 01:38
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Cowslips Warren posted:My female hoggie Alice dropped about a dozen eggs yesterday. Since she was still laying, I left her alone. This morning, no eggs, and slightly fatter Alice. Well, I think they were slugs at least. Circle of life~ I usually search forums and websites to get a good idea of what a certain snake will sell for, and then bump it down a small percentage if I need to clear out quickly.
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Jan 24, 2015 15:36
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Silver Nitrate posted:lol poo poo thanks Yeah, I'm not seeing the problem.
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Jan 24, 2015 21:24
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hackbunny posted:This morning, our male bearded dragon tried to eat the female's tail Separate them and keep them separate.
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Jan 26, 2015 16:56
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And not just once, we had to separate them and give the male a bunch of worms to eat. Problem is, they spend half of the day completely unattended and I'm afraid it could happen again, and he could seriously hurt her 
(he's like three times her size). Anyone else had something like this happen? I still can't fully believe it actually happened
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Breeding for no/dumb reasons aside, why are you trying to breed a pair of dragons if the female is a third of the size of the male...? Breeding a female too young is really dangerous for her just beyond the whole 'male wrecking her poo poo' thing. Geez. Aphelion Necrology fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jan 26, 2015 |
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Jan 26, 2015 23:30
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hackbunny posted:Less than a third actually. Bluto (♂) is ~300 grams, Olive (♀) is ~90 grams, I forget the exact weights but that gives you an idea. I disclaim any responsibility, my girlfriend takes care of them, and breeding to sell was her idea. For what it's worth, she says she's done the barter thing before, with goldfish. Me, I just enjoy the comedy value of a completely mismatched couple, like when he walks around with her resting on his back (at least, I used to enjoy it until he tried to eat her) Goldfish are worth more in bulk because they can be feeders. Good luck getting most pet stores to want 15 normal baby beardies, they probably already have 30. Also 90g sweet lord. Female beardies shouldn't really be bred until they're about 2 years old and fully grown. Whatever, gross.
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Jan 27, 2015 15:56
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Silver Nitrate posted:I know someone who has an alligator of some sort and it has a whole bedroom to itself. It seems pretty cool and chill, but drat it's biiiiig. They're kind of like meat eating iguanas with teefs instead of the tail whip from hell. I would rather have an aligator than an iguana but I could put a lot of snakes in a spare room instead. We get gators through the rescue occasionally and so far they have all been placed. But how would they know that you ate it?
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Jan 27, 2015 16:56
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I would take one but I have been told we are not allowed to eat animals we get from the rescue.
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Silver Nitrate posted:I got the results back from my ratsnake's throat culture and it is negative for everything. He's still making RI noises and has bubbles in his saliva. But is eating and otherwise healthy. What the heck could be causing this? A tumor? Something stuck inside of his nose? What the hell, snake. $500 in vet bills and dozens of shots later he's still got something going on. Worst free snake EVER Like I said, scarring from previous RI can just make a snake sound like poo poo forever. If he does have a tumor, not much you can do about it. What did the Vet recommend?
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Jan 27, 2015 23:45
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That is bizarre. I've also had snakes get wheezy around shedding time due to loose skin around their nostrils, but no mucous. http://www.anapsid.org/rti.html "Some reptiles may exhibit signs of respiratory infection as a signal to you that they have been handled enough or want (or need) to be put down. My female Burmese python would start dripping saliva from her mouth in copious amounts when she'd decided she had had enough out and handling time at education events. When I saw the saliva start oozing from her mouth, I knew I needed to put her away off exhibit immediately. (An interesting note: my male Burmese would erect his anal spurs, digging them into my arm, when he was tired.)" Maybe your snake is just a brat?
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Jan 28, 2015 01:38
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Eifert Posting posted:I've eaten gator and it's the most boring meat I've ever had. Yeah good bang for your buck if it's free but it's basically chicken without crispy skin. Eat it like a man and leave the skin on.
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Jan 28, 2015 02:48
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Why is a 5-year-old getting any small animals in his room - much less one he is expected to handle regularly? Please rethink your whole plan.
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Feb 4, 2015 08:52
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Big Centipede posted:Wow, 63 posts in the herp thread. Wonder what they're talking about. Oh. This thread is worse than a hidden regurge on a hot day. Also to add more - I was into critters and stuff at 5 but my parents didn't let me have my own pets. We did have a family fish tank and stuff that they let me "help" with, so maybe go that route and just let the kid get more active with taking care of your current pets?
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Feb 4, 2015 23:11
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Silver Nitrate posted:Like $100 for a cage, heat, thermostat, and some mice. You can get the snake for free on craigslist. :v People are always getting rid of them its kinda sad actually. You can get a cheap/cracked tank on CL for cheap too, or buy a plastic bin and drill holes in it.
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Feb 4, 2015 23:51
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Then he's probably just being stupid.
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Feb 12, 2015 01:49
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This is lame. Someone please start talking about declawing monitors or fighting turtle rings.
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Feb 12, 2015 04:10
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I don't neuter any of my snakes for personal reasons
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Feb 12, 2015 04:15
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Whenever someone comes over I stuff snakes in their pockets and hope they leave and never bring them back.
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Feb 12, 2015 04:22
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My Boiga like to give me kisses all over and then I feel tingly and sleepy.
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Feb 12, 2015 18:32
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I should probably put a disclaimer in the OP banning anyone who fucks animals or wants to gently caress other posters in this thread. On topic - crocodilians are thought to have a really wide range of emotions, as 126 mentions that in his post. I really do think most reptile behaviour is mistaken as emotions by humans because they have to force some sort of bonded relationship with their boring pets.
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Feb 13, 2015 03:29
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CompactFanny posted:She can dish it out but she can't take it Paging Yeti to this thread. I watched one try to murder him once.
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Feb 13, 2015 19:59
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Yeah, I'm sure that with regular handling they can be tamed down, but every one I've met was a poo poo. They are gorgeous, though.
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Feb 13, 2015 23:08
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HEY VAPER posted:yay, my python came out! she's incredibly docile and playful, easily one of the most hands-on HERPS I've owned. About how long should I let her play around outside of her terrarium? I'm pretty sure your landlord would win that one.
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Feb 15, 2015 19:08
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700g is a big Corn, and I wouldn't be concerned about the weight loss since her body condition is still good. She might be trying to brumate/breed, as FB suggested. I would sometimes convince animals to snap out of it by keeping the lights on for longer periods of time (~12 hours a day) to make them think it was later in the year.
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Feb 16, 2015 16:36
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Temps of 80-85 with a hot spot of 90-94. I can tell your humidity is too low because of the stuck shed skin. Soak the snake in room-temp water for a bit and then rub with a wet paper towel to remove it. Humidity should be about 50% for ball pythons, if I recall.
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Feb 17, 2015 23:38
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Snakes are pretty good swimmers, I've let mine go in full bathtubs and let them screw around in there. Filling up a bathroom sink is a good option, as well. I've never used ecoearth so I can't give an opinion there.
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Feb 17, 2015 23:54
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| # ¿ Apr 18, 2024 16:34 |
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Don't gender 'pop' adult animals, you're really likely to injure them.
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Feb 20, 2015 20:40
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