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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I didn't do either of these things, since I didn't know to. The anchor bolts were held by little plastic things that were tack-nailed onto the foundation frame. They didn't get knocked completely off, but some of them are a little crooked. That's probably going to make getting the sole plate latched down a bit more annoying, but I don't think it's going to worsen the holding power any. As for spray, I can take my dremel to any bits of concrete that are making it hard to get bolts on. Something to keep in mind if I ever do this again, though! You'll be fine. A wire brush will take the concrete off the threads (especially if you do it within a couple days of the pour) and even if they aren't 100% straight you're just going to be dogging them into wood so they'll still work well enough.
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Feb 6, 2015 02:40
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Assuming the 20's on the switches are the amp ratings for those switches, this panel is already "over capacity" That's not how it works. "Oversubscribing" a panel with breakers is not an issue. Some jurisdictions put a limit on it (which is stupid) but what matters is your total peak amp draw. If money/labor was no object I'd put just about every drat thing on it's own home run/breaker and have about 1000% of the panel max in breakers on it. That doesn't change my max usage at all, nor what the main breaker will trip at. This is a question for your building inspector. Make sure you don't have any ill-conceived regs related to this, thrown in a 60 amp breaker and run it to your subpanel with appropriately sized conductors. Done. Edit: Budget $rape per breaker in the subpanel (like $60-80 a piece for 120v 20 amps) because you will be required and should have GFCI breakers for everything other than lighting circuits. Sure, you can get around that with a GFCI outlet at the beginning of the run, etc. But just do it right and be done with it from the beginning. Motronic fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Feb 6, 2015 |
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Feb 6, 2015 04:16
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zfleeman posted:I am incredibly thick -- is this real? In cities, yes. Desperate people do desperate things. Sheet wood is expensive and copper is even more expensive. Also, some people just want to destroy things for the sake of causing trouble. All of these add up to more costs on a large site with a lot of materials and equipment than hiring guards. Putting a dog in a fence means fewer human guards and therefore lower cost for adequate coverage. Ever hear the term "junkyard dog"?
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Feb 6, 2015 17:31
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His Divine Shadow posted:Really? Seems really unprofessional to just be dumping the stuff you've bought like that with no regard for damaging it (which they then did!). At least when I was receiving loads of timber and the like they came in cars that could safely lift it off and put it down without damaging it. A roll off truck is pretty typical in my part of the US. But it's not just randomly dumped: it's stacked a specific way and usually has scrap wood at the bottom to prevent damage. You have to pay extra if you want something with a crane/knuckle boom to get it somewhere other than a surface they can back up to and dump. TooMuchAbstraction posted:* Many of the boards were damp, and some of them had black marks on them that I assume is mold. Is this common? Do I need to bleach the boards or something once I get them into place? Damp is normal. Black marks are normal, but not mold. TooMuchAbstraction posted:* The 16'-long 2x8s are ceiling joists, and I specced them as #1 grade or better (they only need to be #2 or better, but, y'know, overbuilding). Obviously the one that got slammed into the curb needs to be replaced; I also have one that has a rather large crack in the middle, and a few that, uh, don't maintain a rectangular cross-section for their entire length. Like they were on the edge of the tree or something. Anyone know if those meet the #1 grade? Tell them to bring more because what you got is unacceptable. It's completely normal to get a delivery, sort the pile and have rejects. They don't scrutinize these things individually: they get them in huge pallets. It's expected that some of them might not be good enough. They'll take back the bad ones and replace them for you. I'm pretty sure this steady stream of reject returns is where Home Depot gets their lumber from. TooMuchAbstraction posted:* Do I need to cover the outdoor boards/plywood with a tarp? They're liable to get wet anyway once I start building with them... Sheet stock definitely needs to be covered. Everything else is fine for a few months, but if you can cover it all the better.
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Feb 15, 2015 18:49
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:How quickly do I need to notify them? I mean, some of these rejects aren't going to be obvious until I've gotten a fair ways into the project because they're buried in a 15-deep pile of boards... Ask them. Most places are used to a pile sitting for a month or two on a site, so I'd guess that shouldn't be any surprise to them. If you take 6 months to figure it out that might be a different story.
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Feb 16, 2015 05:13
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The sole plate of the wall is pressure-treated with alkaline copper quaternary, and thus rather unlikely to rot. Or are you worried about moisture propagating through the sole plate and into the studs? Yes. It is worth the time/effort to put a SILL plate gasket under there. And are you using the correct fasteners for pressure treated (i.e. hot dip galvanized or stainless) to fasten the non-PT studs to the PT lumber? If not, they will start to rot away and loosen in a decade or so. Even if you used the wrong ones, just whack a few of the correct ones in while it's still convenient. No big deal.
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Feb 22, 2015 17:01
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You don't need the construction adhesive there. The strength comes from the fully built box of the structure and your anchor bolts are only there to stop it from moving across or up off the pad (mostly due to wind - but also if you smack a wall with something). Once you tighten those fasteners down you now have a solid friction interface with the gasket/concrete and it's not going anywhere. Then you're adding a ton of lumber on top.
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Feb 22, 2015 17:39
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'll need to maintain a 1/8" gap between them and the lower-half sheets (so they have room to expand if necessary) and I'm not entirely certain how I'll do that without leaving bits of spacer wedged in-between the sheets. You use nails. Same way as when you're spacing decking. Sure, there may be some purpose made thing for this.....but you have nails right there and framing nails are the right diameter to work. And are convenient to remove. Just whack one against the top of the bottom sheet into a few of the studs. Lay up your top sheet on them, fasten and then pull the spacer nails.
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Mar 15, 2015 18:23
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Are you nailing these with a hammer? Or a palm nailer. Because you should really just go buy a palm nailer right now if this is as far as you've gotten.
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May 17, 2015 01:26
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That wasn't a comment on how far you've gotten/slowness or anything, just that the expense is worth it considering how much you have left to do. But if you've already got one all the better.
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May 17, 2015 01:58
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Protip: a lot of roofers prefer to wear tennis shoes when they can get away with it because boots suck on a roof.
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Jun 26, 2015 00:07
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:At this point it's a matter of pride as much as anything; "I built this." "Oh, who was your contractor?" "No. I built this." Totally get it. And trust me, it doesn't wear off after it's done and you're actually using it. You'll still occasionally look around and go "gently caress yeah!" (I just did that from my barn/office I'm posting from) Edit: Starts looking like a real building pretty quick:   (okay, I had some child labor)   
Motronic fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Jun 27, 2015 |
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Jun 27, 2015 22:38
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Hey, nice! How big is that? Not big enough. They are never big enough. But seriously.....I think it ended up 16x20. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Now for the problem: Tough to say from that view, because to have a solution you need to know why it's not true int he first place. And ideas/better pics? I do happen to be in town for the next two weeks.......
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Jul 6, 2015 04:25
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:It's a bit tricky to get a better viewpoint; the joists are in the way if viewed from below. My guess is that it's a combination of the rafter closest to the gables being slightly out of line and the board itself being a bit warped. It's only maybe an inch off at the tip. Start measuring things. The answer can be had with a ladder and tape measure. TooMuchAbstraction posted:I appreciate the implicit offer to visit, but I'm a little gunshy about meeting Strangers from the Internet, and my dog is even worse. Sorry. Hope your trip is going smoothly, anyway. I don't blame you. If the other goons I've met are any indication, we're all even stranger in person than online. Trip is going well, but goddam tiring tech startup bullshit (I can't wait to get home and start bashing on my house and cars again).
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Jul 9, 2015 05:14
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Any suggestions for folding it down properly? http://www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-jaw-straight-sheet-metal-seamer-98728.html Typically use for making HVAC ductwork.
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Sep 20, 2015 20:49
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Just roll out the sheet you need width wise. Leave the roll around the next corner (tire it off). Start tacking from the top. Whatever is extra at the ground you cut off.
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Oct 11, 2015 00:07
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You should cut shingles to fit over that flashing under the far skylight to make it look better (and provide double layer of shingle over the entire tab).
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Oct 25, 2015 00:11
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Final inspection has come and gone. As far as the city is concerned, this project is finished. Congrats. That's a big step, especially in a place like SF. The "it's your first building" comment probably has a lot to do with some overbuilding/overboxing and the amount of time it's taken since the permit was opened. It looks really good, and you should be quite satisfied to get to work on your projects in something you put up with your own 2 hands.
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Apr 12, 2017 22:47
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