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IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





IF YOU ARE ASKING A QUESTION, YOU NEED TO GIVE DETAILS
Be specific. "MY BLUE CAR IS MAKING A SQUEAK WHAT COULD IT BE?" ain't good enough. Tell us the make / model / year / engine type when asking questions about your car. Beyond that, the experts will ask for further details.

The last two threads:
http://forums.somethingawful.com/sh...hreadid=2012475
http://forums.somethingawful.com/sh...hreadid=2341562

If you are asking about what car to buy, that's this thread.

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Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


Protip: don't throw parts at a car.

Protip II: don't get it serviced by the dealer, unless you have a warranty, in which case, keep your receipts even if you get it serviced by the dealer. Case in point: Hyundai.

General_Failure
Apr 17, 2005


Geirskogul posted:

Protip: don't throw parts at a car.

Agreed.
87 Lada Niva. Not really asking a question. just saying for reference. Throwing parts at a car to solve a vague condition can be costly and time consuming. There's a horrible groan I've been chasing for months in the front end when I turn the steering wheel. I've even tried using a sound meter on my phone to pinpoint it. There are so many parts under there I could replace to try and alleviate it, but all the parts while old appear to be serviceable.
I believe I have may found the problem. it seems to be a flogged inner tie rod end. This can be isolated if I try. It pays to take time and thought into narrowing down then isolating issues. And bearing in mind cause and effect. Just because a part is misbehaving and doing X, doesn't mean it is the one causing the problem.

AquarianFire
Dec 24, 2006

Unleashing the Fire Within

2002 Nissan Sentra GXE 1.8L engine - 144,000 miles on it. Bought brand new in 2002. I'm the only owner - she's my baby.

Today my car decided to stall on me in drive while coming to a stop at a red light. I fired it back up and drove to the grocery store, where I was headed in the first place. Car stalls again as I'm parking. I fired it back up, only to have it stall while in park. I'm able to drive the car just fine with the ole "one foot on the brake and one foot on the gas" trick. Brought it home and sat in the car for a few minutes and it was running/idling just fine without my foot on the gas in park. I noticed recently that it was idling a little low whenever I stopped at a stop light or whatever, but it's never stalled on me like it did today. There are no codes and nothing else seems wrong with the car (it's not acting funny in any other way other than the funny idle/stalling issues).

I have an appointment with mechanics tomorrow morning to get it checked out. I'm thinking it could be a fuel filter, spark plugs or maybe the mass air flow sensor (known to be an issue with these Nissans). My questions are:

1. Does the 2002 Nissan Sentra even have a serviceable fuel filter? I keep reading online that it does not and I'd have to change out the entire fuel pump instead (??)

2. Wouldn't the mass air flow sensor throw a code?

3. Could it be anything else?

I'm trying to determine if I should just have the spark plugs and fuel filter done or if I should spend the $89 diagnostics price to have the mechanics just tell me what it is.

AquarianFire fucked around with this message at 00:31 on Feb 8, 2015

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?


The filter/pump combo has been catching on for a while now. I hadn't heard of it that far back, but it's definitely a thing. Are you sure there's no codes, or are you going by the check engine light? There are codes that won't trigger a light.

Edit: Yeah I don't think it's a fuel filter problem. I ran a fuel filter something like 6x it's intended lifespan because I'm an idiot, and it acted like a car that's running out of gas. Pushing the pedal wouldn't have ANY effect, it would just idle until it was starved enough to die. After a few minutes, I guess the crud shifted enough to let fuel flow through again (briefly) and I could start it again. In your case I'm thinking it's more of a sensor issue, maybe the MAF or something.

Godholio fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Feb 8, 2015

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Seems to me that if it was a fuel supply issue, it should get worse under load / more throttle, not better - more throttle would just mean more lean.

To reiterate the first reply of the thread - don't just throw parts at it. Do plugs on it if they're due and you don't want to do it yourself, but don't expect that to necessarily solve this unless the ones that are in the car are really, really bad.

AquarianFire
Dec 24, 2006

Unleashing the Fire Within

No check engine light. I do not have the ability to check the codes without going somewhere, and honestly, I'm a little chicken poo poo to drive the car. My boyfriend drove it home for me today. We actually left he grocery store and drove right to Pepboys. They were super BUSY and my boyfriend wasn't too keen on waiting around for a couple of hours just to be seen, so we made an appointment for tomorrow morning.

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012

I got a SOCOM scout and twenty extra mags
And a couple severed heads in my bug-out bag






Geirskogul posted:

Protip: don't throw parts at a car.

Protip II: don't get it serviced by the dealer, unless you have a warranty, in which case, keep your receipts even if you get it serviced by the dealer. Case in point: Hyundai.

Instructions unclear, Threw parts at dealership. Issue seems resolved anyways.

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?


AquarianFire posted:

No check engine light. I do not have the ability to check the codes without going somewhere, and honestly, I'm a little chicken poo poo to drive the car. My boyfriend drove it home for me today. We actually left he grocery store and drove right to Pepboys. They were super BUSY and my boyfriend wasn't too keen on waiting around for a couple of hours just to be seen, so we made an appointment for tomorrow morning.

Any parts store like Autozone (unless you're in California) will check the codes for free. It's a 30 second process.

Chief Savage Man
Jul 19, 2010

i care, i'm listening, i can help you without giving any advice


Pillbug

2014 VW Jetta Sportswagen 2.0L TDI 25k miles (its a working car)

While doing my route today, I had to do a typically hairy NJ driving maneuver to get out of a parking lot onto the highway using the sport mode and gunning it so I didn't get run over. I have done this a few times every night since I started this job and it was never any kind of problem until today. Ever since that particular maneuver, the alternator/battery light has been flashing at completely random intervals. I turned off all the electricity thing I could except headlights and then I didn't have any problems finishing my route which was about thirty five miles from where it first started until I got home. When I did get home and shut off the car, I heard some god awful clicking and clacking noises after I got out which did stop after a few seconds (as if the DPF regen was malfunctioning). At the end of the day, I do have fleet maintenance so I don't really need to know what the problem is but I'd like to know if there's a risk that this thing is going to up and die on me at some random point which would factor into if I take it to the nearby shop of the guy I don't trust or the one significantly farther away who I like much more and would prefer to get my company's money.

Powered Descent
Jul 13, 2008

We haven't had that spirit here since 1969.


Yam Slacker

Is there any good way yet to retrofit the headlights on a ten-year-old car to LEDs? Ideally, I'd be looking for some kind of drop-in unit to replace the bulb.

My car is a 2005 Mazda3, which takes H7 headlight bulbs. Tonight after changing a bulb (and fighting with that STUPID retaining clip ) it occurred to me that my car is the last bastion of the incandescent light bulb in my life. It would be great to switch to bulbs that will last basically forever, and never have to deal with said retaining clip ever again. Google tells me that such LED bulbs do exist, but I don't know whether they're any good or not.

e: Note that I'm not exactly a gearhead, which explains my preference for a nice easy drop-in solution.

Powered Descent fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Feb 8, 2015

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Powered Descent posted:

Is there any good way yet to retrofit the headlights on a ten-year-old car to LEDs? Ideally, I'd be looking for some kind of drop-in unit to replace the bulb.

No.

The bulbs are not enough. The projectors matter so you don't blind people.

There is also no DOT approved way to do this that costs less than buying a car that has LED lights or at least LED lights as an option and retrofitting the correct OEM parts to your car.

Powered Descent
Jul 13, 2008

We haven't had that spirit here since 1969.


Yam Slacker


That's what I was afraid of. Thanks!

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Absolutely the most reliable, easiest to maintain motorcycles on the road today...Yah cunts.

Lets see if the new thread can help me with this issue that I'm still fighting.

97 Toyota Tercel with a 4E-FE. Efi is a simple MAP sensor system with an electronic distributor, one 02 sensor and not much else. Pretty normal for a late 90's toyota, almost identical system to a 4AFE. I have thus far replaced the distributor (old one was completely knackered), MAP sensor, ISCV (old one was clogged to poo poo), cleaned the TB, seafoamed the engine, plugs, O2 sensor and engine temp sensor.

The issue: cold idles perfectly. As the car heats up, the idle reduces in speed (normal) but also gets quite rough and lumpy when the car is in D or R (in neutral it's ok). This is fine during the day, but putting electrical load on by switching on the headlights makes the idle drop down to an uncomfortably low speed that causes the steering wheel and whole car to shake. It never stalls, it never hesitates taking off from a stop, never stutters, drives perfectly. It just doesn't seem to be able to compensate for added electrical load by bringing the idle up slightly. Having an indicator going while you're stopped in D makes the idle fluctuate up and down in time with the indicator turning on and off.

I'm at a loss as to what else to look for/do. It's like the car just won't behave as designed and it isn't a faulty component that I can find.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Maybe a vacuum leak? I assume ISCV is the idle speed control valve, else I would suggest maybe the IAC motor/valve, what I normally hear it called.

Chief Savage Man posted:

2014 VW Jetta Sportswagen 2.0L TDI 25k miles (its a working car)

While doing my route today, I had to do a typically hairy NJ driving maneuver to get out of a parking lot onto the highway using the sport mode and gunning it so I didn't get run over. I have done this a few times every night since I started this job and it was never any kind of problem until today. Ever since that particular maneuver, the alternator/battery light has been flashing at completely random intervals. I turned off all the electricity thing I could except headlights and then I didn't have any problems finishing my route which was about thirty five miles from where it first started until I got home. When I did get home and shut off the car, I heard some god awful clicking and clacking noises after I got out which did stop after a few seconds (as if the DPF regen was malfunctioning). At the end of the day, I do have fleet maintenance so I don't really need to know what the problem is but I'd like to know if there's a risk that this thing is going to up and die on me at some random point which would factor into if I take it to the nearby shop of the guy I don't trust or the one significantly farther away who I like much more and would prefer to get my company's money.

Hmmm. Sounds like exhaust noises - things that are hot and cool down quickly tend to make creaking clanking noises as they do so. As for the battery/alt light issue I bet the alternator didn't like the high RPMs today and packed it in, or at least the brushes for the field winding are now making intermittent contact.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Absolutely the most reliable, easiest to maintain motorcycles on the road today...Yah cunts.

Intake manifold has a grand total of 3 vacuum lines (booster, pcv, evap canister). It isn't leaking.

I know conventional wisdom indicates that solid tappet Toyotas never go out of spec and even when they do, it makes gently caress all difference to anything, but could loose clearances do this?

Forgot to mention: chucked a set of junkyard injectors at it, made no difference at all, so I'm assuming the injectors are OK at 190,000km.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Hmmmm. Yeah I am about out of ideas, it should compensate for power usage easily in closed loop idle.

Does the intake air temp sensor show a sane reading? If it is reading way off, that can affect things just as much as a wonky MAP since both values are needed to calculate the mass of incoming air iirc. I would still expect it to compensate for that using the O2 sensor but you never know. Speaking of which, what are the long and short term fuel trims?

E: now not so sure about the IAT thing, need to remember my stoich and gas laws I guess.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Absolutely the most reliable, easiest to maintain motorcycles on the road today...Yah cunts.

IAT readings are sensible. Don't think the car has the ability to correct long-term, or if it does both scan tools I've hooked to it can't display them for some reason (modern cars work perfectly). It isn't OBDII fwiw. I can't picture it being anything a/f ratio related like a temp sensor because it runs perfectly, it just won't idle fast enough when it has electrical load.

Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006



Nap Ghost

IOC, can you change the post icon to something that isn't animated as it's kind of annoying in my list of bookmarked threads? It's the only one on my list that is and is bound to always be at the top and now my cat won't stop punching my monitor....

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011


I request an epilepsy-inducing animated tag.

Godholio
Aug 28, 2002

Does a bear split in the woods near Zheleznogorsk?


Powered Descent posted:

Is there any good way yet to retrofit the headlights on a ten-year-old car to LEDs? Ideally, I'd be looking for some kind of drop-in unit to replace the bulb.

My car is a 2005 Mazda3, which takes H7 headlight bulbs. Tonight after changing a bulb (and fighting with that STUPID retaining clip ) it occurred to me that my car is the last bastion of the incandescent light bulb in my life. It would be great to switch to bulbs that will last basically forever, and never have to deal with said retaining clip ever again. Google tells me that such LED bulbs do exist, but I don't know whether they're any good or not.

e: Note that I'm not exactly a gearhead, which explains my preference for a nice easy drop-in solution.

You might be able to find a complete "drop in" housing. But yeah, switching bulb types is almost always a bad idea, because the source of light is almost never in the right place. Think about shining a flashlight in a mirror...if you move that flashlight just a little bit it can have a big effect on where the light shines. Now do that in a mirror with facets designed to aim a coherent beam to specific areas, and it quickly becomes a mess. As mentioned, also not street legal.

Charles
May 9, 2004

zoom-zoom


Toilet Rascal

Powered Descent posted:

Is there any good way yet to retrofit the headlights on a ten-year-old car to LEDs? Ideally, I'd be looking for some kind of drop-in unit to replace the bulb.

My car is a 2005 Mazda3, which takes H7 headlight bulbs. Tonight after changing a bulb (and fighting with that STUPID retaining clip ) it occurred to me that my car is the last bastion of the incandescent light bulb in my life. It would be great to switch to bulbs that will last basically forever, and never have to deal with said retaining clip ever again. Google tells me that such LED bulbs do exist, but I don't know whether they're any good or not.

e: Note that I'm not exactly a gearhead, which explains my preference for a nice easy drop-in solution.

If you want, there was an HID option for the 3. It was on the Grand Touring spec at least from 06 on; in 2005 it might have only been on the SP23 but I'm not sure. Don't know what kind of work it would require to switch over but I never considered it because the halogens on this car are pretty good.

edit: and those also had LED taillights if you want those.

Chief Savage Man
Jul 19, 2010

i care, i'm listening, i can help you without giving any advice


Pillbug

My Jetta completely died about half a mile from the shop in case anybody is wondering. Thank God for fleet response.

saint gerald
Apr 17, 2003


Somehow my wife managed to snap the hood release cable on my 1996 F350. I can't seem to get at the end of it from inside the cab, and I can't seem to pop the release by reaching through the grille either. Any suggestions?

Geoj
May 28, 2008

BITTER POOR PERSON


Chief Savage Man posted:

2014 VW Jetta Sportswagen 2.0L TDI 25k miles (its a working car)

See emphasis above, surely this is still under factory warranty? Take it to the dealer and let them handle it.

e: just saw your later reply, if it's a fleet car let the fleet management company handle it.

Geoj fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Feb 8, 2015

shodanjr_gr
Nov 20, 2007


There's no Corvette thread so I figured I'd ask here...Anyone know of a west-coast equivalent (preferably in the valley) to Kerbeck Corvette (https://www.kerbeck.com)?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Why, are you looking to buy? I'm 99% certain my dad got his old C6 through Kerbeck and they were able to have it ordered and sent to a dealership here in AZ. Neither my old man nor the car ever went anywhere near NJ.

shodanjr_gr
Nov 20, 2007


IOwnCalculus posted:

Why, are you looking to buy? I'm 99% certain my dad got his old C6 through Kerbeck and they were able to have it ordered and sent to a dealership here in AZ. Neither my old man nor the car ever went anywhere near NJ.

I've started doing some market research for a terrible mistake i plan on making in the summer. I read online that they ship their cars around but if there is an equally good specialized dealer on the west, where I can just trade in my current wheels as well (I'm lazy), I'd rather go there and save on the shipping costs.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





I'll have to check with him but I don't think he paid anything other than a typical destination fee - Kerbeck ordered it from the factory but was able to set it up so that it never went to them to begin with.

shodanjr_gr
Nov 20, 2007


IOwnCalculus posted:

I'll have to check with him but I don't think he paid anything other than a typical destination fee - Kerbeck ordered it from the factory but was able to set it up so that it never went to them to begin with.

That would be awesome, I would greatly appreciate if you did that...Their prices seem SO much better compared to any other dealership that i've found online, particularly the ones on the West Coast...

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007







Smellrose

Note that if you are buying a new car in California, it must be a California-emissions car. You can't get around it by importing a car from an out-of-state dealership.

shodanjr_gr
Nov 20, 2007


Leperflesh posted:

Note that if you are buying a new car in California, it must be a California-emissions car. You can't get around it by importing a car from an out-of-state dealership.

What do you mean "California emissions"? Are Vettes destined for CA different mechanically or in terms of ECU calibration to meet different emissions standards?

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

AquarianFire posted:

2002 Nissan Sentra...stalling...

1. Does the 2002 Nissan Sentra even have a serviceable fuel filter? I keep reading online that it does not and I'd have to change out the entire fuel pump instead (??)
No, it does not.

quote:

2. Wouldn't the mass air flow sensor throw a code?
3. Could it be anything else?

Unplug the MAF. Any change?
Phyiscally remove the crank sensor and check for oil in the connector.


Slavvy posted:

97 Toyota Tercel with a 4E-FE. Efi is a simple MAP sensor system with an electronic distributor, one 02 sensor and not much else.

Unplug every sensor. Does it idle on ECM default readings?

Fender Anarchist
May 20, 2009

Fender Anarchist



shodanjr_gr posted:

What do you mean "California emissions"? Are Vettes destined for CA different mechanically or in terms of ECU calibration to meet different emissions standards?

Maybe not Corvettes specifically, but some cars do have mechanically distinct "California Emissions" models. These days I wanna say most cars have unified so that all cars meet those standards, but in certain cases the difference may cause the California models to be more expensive by enough margin that it makes sense to split them into their own production line (or setup within the same factory, whatever) because the expense is offset by how much cheaper the 49-state models are.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Absolutely the most reliable, easiest to maintain motorcycles on the road today...Yah cunts.

mr.belowaverage posted:

No, it does not.


Unplug the MAF. Any change?
Phyiscally remove the crank sensor and check for oil in the connector.


Unplug every sensor. Does it idle on ECM default readings?

Good idea, I'll try this when I get home.

ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

IF I JUST LICK ENOUGH BOOT LEATHER, BIG DADDY TRUMP WILL SURELY LOVE ME

Stupid question.
WTF is the difference between a hatchback focus and a c-max?

Or, given the c-max is hybrid/electric, whats the difference between a hybrid focus and a hybrid c-max and/or an electric focus and an electric c-max?

They seem to be pretty much the same damned thing to me.

Geoj
May 28, 2008

BITTER POOR PERSON


C-Max is a "people mover" or MPV - kind of a cross between a minivan and a four-door hatch/station wagon. Longer wheelbase and more headroom than the Focus hatch, although they do share the Ford C platform as an underpinning.

Computer Serf
May 14, 2005
DIDN'T FOLLOW RSF RULES BUT GOT LUCKY AND INSTEAD OF GETTING BANNED GOT THIS SHITTY CUSTOM TITLE!! LOVES TO MASTURBATE @ ZOOS

Buglord

Motronic posted:

It's raspberry milkshake and it's not an overflow.
There is a transmission cooler IN the regular radiator. It rots and ATF is pushed into the coolant loop when it running. Then you turn it off and the pressurized coolant makes it's way into the transmission cooler loop. This kills the transmission in short order.
So if it has raspberry milkshake it needs a trans and radiator. There is no need to replace the motor.

If all seems well with this truck just make sure the timing belts and rollers are recent or replace them. Also get an external trans cooler and attach it, and "loop" the stock trans cooler in the radiator (just run a hose from the outlet to the inlet) so it doesn't leak coolant when it eventually rots through.


LeeMajors posted:


Hammered the brackets so they don't interfere with anything, reroute the transmission lines to the cooler and then run a loop from the old nipples on the radiator so if it does corrode you won't lose all your coolant. I'm not incredibly mechanically inclined, and I knocked it out in about 3hrs. That's probably on the long side. Hardest part was removing old hoses from the steel transmission lines--they are tucked over your lower control arm.

some texas redneck posted:

Did the owner tell you this had happened? The vast majority of car owners will have no idea this has happened until the transmission starts acting up. And no, there really won't be any way to tell easily, the only indication would be a brand new radiator, or brand new transmission cooler in front of it. If the coolant has been changed on schedule, it's possible it's on the original radiator, and never had the pink milkshake. The transmissions don't last very long after drinking a strawberry milkshake, for what it's worth.

Also, even if it hasn't happened, at 250k, unless it's all highway miles, the transmission is likely getting pretty tired. I'd keep enough saved up for a used transmission either way. As long as it's not the old 3.0 V6, I'd probably buy it (avoid the 3.0 at all costs - all the power of the 4 cylinder, with the mileage of a V8, and an appetite for head gaskets that makes Subarus with massive turbos jealous - the 3.0 was replaced with a much better 3.4 V6 late in the 1995 model year). Expect plenty of oil leaks no matter what engine it has.

If it's old enough to be a 4 cylinder, that engine will still be running long after everyone on this forum is dead, as long as the timing chain guides get replaced every decade. I've never experienced the 3.4 in person, but if it's anything like most Toyota engines (barring the 3.0's appetite for head gaskets, and the 22RE's appetite for timing chain guides), it'll be pissing oil everywhere for most of its life, but will run forever with just basic maintenance.



thank you each for this wisdom.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Absolutely the most reliable, easiest to maintain motorcycles on the road today...Yah cunts.

Slavvy posted:

Good idea, I'll try this when I get home.

Quoting for progress. Car runs with every sensor disconnected. Connecting them one by one led to not much change in idle until the engine temp sensor, which caused a noticeable drop (like 450-500rpm in D/R with low beams, indicator and windscreen wipers going). Guess I have to re-examine that, now.

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nitrogen
May 21, 2004

Oh, what's a 217°C difference between friends?


Godholio posted:

Any parts store like Autozone (unless you're in California) will check the codes for free. It's a 30 second process.

ok so I have to ask, why won't California Autozones do this?

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