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Arriviste
Sep 10, 2010

Gather. Grok. Create.




Now pick up what you can
and run.


Bonk posted:

I've got a '93 Honda Accord I'm trying to get rid of because I never drive it. Due to being parked and unused most of the time, it's started having battery issues. I've had to jump it a few times in the past few months but usually if I use it once a week it'll start up without much trouble.

Last week though, I tried starting it up and only got dash lights, no engine turning over or clicking or anything. I tried to jump it with another car, but after I hooked it up, it stopped doing anything at all - no dash lights, nothing. It won't take a jump anymore. I know I hooked up the cables in the right order because I've done it dozens of times, it's just suddenly not taking a charge anymore. I don't want to put more money into it (especially if I don't know if it's just the battery) but I'd also like to not take a low-ball offer because I've spent a lot on repairs. What could make it just die like that, and does it sound like it's just the battery or might it be a short? The only thing I can think of is that it's been rainy and something got wet. Removing the battery and getting it tested is also an option, but if there's an easier way I'm open to suggestions.

Possibly related, or at least worth watching out for, is a rotten/broken plastic bumper on the brake switch adjustment. Found this fix for a friend with an electrical gremlin in an Accord from the same era: Honda Tech forum thread.

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kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Keldoclock posted:

Hello thread! I am a dumb kid who drives a 1994 Jeep Wrangler.

It's nearing 150000mi and some dudes at Jiffy Lube told me that it was about time for me to change my air filter, so I said OK, bought a mexican air filter off the internet for $6, got it mailed to me, watched a youtube video, and installed it. I just flipped open the plastic housing, took out the old one, looked inside and didnt see any rocks or anything, and put the new one in.

The trouble is, to get it open, the youtube video I watched told me to disconnect this tube:



So it's this little plastic tube with a stiff rubber seal, I pulled on it expecting it to come out, then when it didn't I grabbed the rubber bit with my other hand and just wiggled it back and forth, using more and more force until I freed it. When I get it out, it's got jagged edges, which makes me think I loving broke it. So I googled around and couldn't even find the name of the part, thought "gently caress it" and used some super-thick CA glue that I have for model aircraft and just smeared it on the inside of the seal and jammed the tube back in.

I haven't noticed any problems yet, but also I have no idea what to look for, and there are so many goddamn things broken or loose on my jeep that it's tough to hear changes in the sound of it when I drive.

Am I letting unfiltered air into my engine, or did I merely cause trouble for myself when I have to put another air filter in?

Fucknag is pretty close, those engines use a CCV system not a PCV system but you can treat it the same. That is the fresh air side (the one at the back of the valve cover that goes to the intake is the metered vacuum side - note, metered by an orifice, not the MAF, don't worry about it as long as it is intact) and supplies atmospheric pressure air to the crankcase. As long as it doesn't pop out of the fittings it is perfectly fine, I usually stick a ziptie on mine if it has gotten old and loose and falls out of the fitting.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


kastein posted:

There is no such thing as a cheap grease gun, or even a medium price grease gun, that isn't infuriating to try and get bled and then keep working, but it'll get you through at least half a TRE fill before it stops pumping grease and makes you want to whoop it into the dumpster.

Or install it, install the grease zerk, go to valvoline instant oil change (or probably most other chain quicklubes, but that's the one I worked at and I know their services and when they were busy) at lunch hour on a sunday with a six pack and ask em to grease the steering/suspension grease zerks. Probably don't even need the six pack if there's a VIOC previous customer barcode sticker anywhere on the vehicle.
Yeah I remember having seen plenty of posts about cheapie grease guns being infuriating. I think I will give it a shot just for the experience, but I'm still not sure exactly what grease I should be using for this.

Also will the zerk need any kind of cover once everything is finished?

Gingerbread House Music
Dec 1, 2009

by FactsAreUseless


Lipstick Apathy

Parts Kit posted:

Yeah I remember having seen plenty of posts about cheapie grease guns being infuriating. I think I will give it a shot just for the experience, but I'm still not sure exactly what grease I should be using for this.

Also will the zerk need any kind of cover once everything is finished?

I have a HF grease gun and it's never failed to work.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Parts Kit posted:

Yeah I remember having seen plenty of posts about cheapie grease guns being infuriating. I think I will give it a shot just for the experience, but I'm still not sure exactly what grease I should be using for this.

Also will the zerk need any kind of cover once everything is finished?

Typically they come with a little rubber boot. If not, I'd buy these: http://www.amazon.com/Grease-Fittin...e/dp/B0040CWX7C

EightBit
Jan 7, 2006
I spent money on this line of text just to make the "Stupid Newbie" go away.

My Jeep has over thirty grease fittings that need to be hit during every oil change. I do it myself, but I'm real tempted to pay someone else to grease all the drat things.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007







Smellrose

Parts Kit posted:

I'm still not sure exactly what grease I should be using for this.

You want something like this, I think:


Just general purpose high-temperature grease. It should cost like four bucks.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Leperflesh posted:

You want something like this, I think:


Just general purpose high-temperature grease. It should cost like four bucks.

Yeah just regular black moly grease. Comes in a tube that you slide in the gun. Not super special. Make sure you get a gun with a flexible neck dealy! Mine came with a fixed "extension" that made it impossible to get to most of the zerks.

Bonk posted:

I've got a '93 Honda Accord I'm trying to get rid of because I never drive it. Due to being parked and unused most of the time, it's started having battery issues. I've had to jump it a few times in the past few months but usually if I use it once a week it'll start up without much trouble.

Last week though, I tried starting it up and only got dash lights, no engine turning over or clicking or anything. I tried to jump it with another car, but after I hooked it up, it stopped doing anything at all - no dash lights, nothing. It won't take a jump anymore. I know I hooked up the cables in the right order because I've done it dozens of times, it's just suddenly not taking a charge anymore. I don't want to put more money into it (especially if I don't know if it's just the battery) but I'd also like to not take a low-ball offer because I've spent a lot on repairs. What could make it just die like that, and does it sound like it's just the battery or might it be a short? The only thing I can think of is that it's been rainy and something got wet. Removing the battery and getting it tested is also an option, but if there's an easier way I'm open to suggestions.

Check the battery with a multimeter to verify that it's dead. Going that bad that fast surprises me, but it's not impossible. If the battery shows some voltage but you don't get dash lights, I'd suspect a dirty connection in the battery cables. Can't hurt to clean that stuff up. But of course, if the battery shows 5V or something ridiculous like that, then yeah it could be just the battery.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


Okay, HF grease gun and grease has been acquired. Now...was grease supposed to start coming out of the boot when the joint was full? Because that kinda left me

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Absolutely the most reliable, easiest to maintain motorcycles on the road today...Yah cunts.

You're meant to stop when grease starts peeking out from the boot.

Parts Kit
Jun 9, 2006

durr
i have a hole in my head
durr


oh thank god.

(and thank you)

InitialDave
Jun 14, 2007

I want to believe


It's worth wiping off the excess to stop it just turning into a spitball of dirt.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007







Smellrose

Traditionally, you should wipe it with your sleeve, and then absent-mindedly swipe your sweaty brow with your sleeve, leaving a perfect small but obvious streak of grease so everyone who sees you can tell instantly that you are a Real Man who has been doing Real Work on his car.

This gives you a completely legitimate and unassailable right to drink beer while hanging around in the driveway at 10 AM.

ExecuDork
Feb 25, 2007

We might be fucked, sir.

Fallen Rib

I'll be moving from Saskatchewan to Ontario in April, and soon after I start my new job there I'll want to buy a car. I'll sort out budget and so forth and post in the AI-meets-BFC thread when I've got some numbers, but I wanted to check in here where I know there are a few Ontario goons kicking around.

I read the relevant webpages, and I understand I'll have 6 days after buying the car to get it registered and plated. They (Ministry of Transportation) will charge me 13% sales tax on the value of the car (actual price or book value, whichever is higher) and will want to see some documents, like a safety certificate and (maybe?) an emissions test. Plus proof of insurance.

I'm a little confused about the process here. Is it:
1. Find a car, test-drive it, buy it
2. Go to an insurance broker and get car insurance
3. Go to a MTO office and register the car, get plates.
4. Drive, be happy.
?
or do I have the order of operations wrong?

My confusion is: can you drive around for most of a week without plates? Do you get temporary plates of some kind when you buy a car? Do I ask the seller to leave the plates on the car until I can get the registration and insurance all arranged? Can you get an emissions test with temporary or previous-owner's plates?

EDIT: I'll be moving to Kitchener/Waterloo, if that makes any difference.

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

Leperflesh posted:

This gives you a completely legitimate and unassailable right to drink beer while hanging around in the driveway at 10 AM.

Wait, you need an excuse to do this???

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007







Smellrose

Uthor posted:

Wait, you need an excuse to do this???

It's the "unassailable" part. Spouses can't say poo poo. You are Fixing Things, which is a task only possible with the correct superior german lubricants.

You can of course drink beer at 10AM whenver you drat well please, but some people will bitch and moan about it if you're just doing it at the office or while making breakfast or whatever.

Deeters
Aug 20, 2007



I noticed in the instructions for a 12v USB charger I just bought that it said not to leave it plugged in when starting the car or when nothing is plugged into it. Since I'm not an electrical guy, what's the risk? I know that my socket isn't powered when the car is off.

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

Leperflesh posted:

It's the "unassailable" part. Spouses can't say poo poo. You are Fixing Things, which is a task only possible with the correct superior german lubricants.

You can of course drink beer at 10AM whenver you drat well please, but some people will bitch and moan about it if you're just doing it at the office or while making breakfast or whatever.

When I started working 3rd shifts, the office was across the street from a blue collar bar. We'd go in there once a week at 7am and have 32 oz. schooners. Around 9 am, the bar owners elderly mother would come in and cook us all breakfast to go with our beers.

Ah, one's mid-20's when no one had anything better to do than drink at 7 am.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Absolutely the most reliable, easiest to maintain motorcycles on the road today...Yah cunts.

More Tercel adventures.

I bought a vacuum gauge of decent quality and hooked it up. When the car is hot and idling in neutral, the gauge actually reads above the 'healthy' range. I don't understand how this can be since it's a 4EFE and not an F1 engine so theoretically shouldn't be drawing more vacuum than normal. When I put it in D and put a bunch of electrical loads on it so the idle starts chugging as it is wont to do, vacuum drops into the 'normal' range. I don't understand. How can my car have super manifold vacuum? I expected a leak or something.

This is really frustrating because I genuinely believed the gauge would reveal something useful and instead all signs point to a perfectly healthy engine that just won't idle for poo poo.

e: worth mentioning the needle very rapidly flickers like half a point consistently, but I'm putting this down to the idle just being shaky as gently caress and not an actual issue.

Slavvy fucked around with this message at 06:08 on Feb 12, 2015

Krakkles
May 5, 2003

like and subscribe for more passive-aggressive roadway bullshit adventure in Chigcao

What kind of vacuum gauge did you get? "Healthy" and "Normal" are not vacuum readings.

Also, are you thinking you have a vacuum leak and you're trying to find it with this? Because ... that's not how you do that.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only

Fun Shoe

I have a 2001 Dodge stratus V6 (2.7 liter I believe) and today I noticed that the heat is blowing cold air. Two days ago I had to refill the coolant as it was very low (check engine came on and coolant began to boil after 20 minutes), but I don't think there is a leak as I've been keeping an eye on coolant levels since and it's been steady. I haven't used the heat much since coolant was low but it worked fine before. I'm going to assume these two issues are related somehow. Does this sound like an air bubble? If so, do I just run it until it passes and for how long?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Smeed posted:

I have a 2001 Dodge stratus V6 (2.7 liter I believe) and today I noticed that the heat is blowing cold air. Two days ago I had to refill the coolant as it was very low (check engine came on and coolant began to boil after 20 minutes), but I don't think there is a leak as I've been keeping an eye on coolant levels since and it's been steady. I haven't used the heat much since coolant was low but it worked fine before. I'm going to assume these two issues are related somehow. Does this sound like an air bubble? If so, do I just run it until it passes and for how long?

It's worrying that coolant was that low, but isn't leaking anywhere. It's going somewhere, so hopefully not past the headgasket into the combustion chamber. Blowing much steam out the tailpipe? Regardless, do you have enough coolant in there now? If it's all gone somewhere, the heater won't work, for sure.

If you've still got enough, then yeah it could be just an air bubble. I'm not sure where the highest point in the cooling system is on those, but generally if you have the nose up in the air so the radiator is at the top, and run it (from cold) with the radiator cap off and the heat on, the bubble will work its way out. But often, specific cars will have their own special procedure because of some design peculiarity.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only

Fun Shoe

Raluek posted:

It's worrying that coolant was that low, but isn't leaking anywhere. It's going somewhere, so hopefully not past the headgasket into the combustion chamber. Blowing much steam out the tailpipe? Regardless, do you have enough coolant in there now? If it's all gone somewhere, the heater won't work, for sure.

If you've still got enough, then yeah it could be just an air bubble. I'm not sure where the highest point in the cooling system is on those, but generally if you have the nose up in the air so the radiator is at the top, and run it (from cold) with the radiator cap off and the heat on, the bubble will work its way out. But often, specific cars will have their own special procedure because of some design peculiarity.

It worries me as well so I'm keeping an eye on it. As much as I hate admit it though, it's possible it was low from stupidity and neglect on my part as I have never checked it myself. The exhaust doesn't smell sweet and the amount of steam doesn't strike me as odd, but it's been 20 degrees here for the past month so most times there is something visible coming from the tailpipe. It seems to run fine too. Yes, the coolant is just below the full mark when cold. As a matter of fact I remember using the heat yesterday and it seemed to work fine.

If this doesn't clear up on my ride home I'll find a hill and five those steps a shot.

a dingus fucked around with this message at 14:27 on Feb 12, 2015

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Absolutely the most reliable, easiest to maintain motorcycles on the road today...Yah cunts.

Krakkles posted:

What kind of vacuum gauge did you get? "Healthy" and "Normal" are not vacuum readings.

Also, are you thinking you have a vacuum leak and you're trying to find it with this? Because ... that's not how you do that.

Yes it is, that's (partly) what a vacuum gauge is for. Normal being around 17-22 inches of mercury, my car is around 25. I don't know how to answer your question beyond it being a vacuum gauge explicitly designed for this purpose. I was actually hoping to discover incorrect ignition timing or something like that.

Mr. Wiggles
Dec 1, 2003

I would never shop at Costco. The paper towels won't fit into my sports car!


So, we may be picking this up as a band van.

http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/4876582806.html

As this isn't a Chrysler that I have a lot of experience with, what things ought we to look for beside making sure the tranny isn't toasted?

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

That would make a pimp rear end band van!

(I don't have an answer to your question, though.)

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Slavvy posted:

Yes it is, that's (partly) what a vacuum gauge is for. Normal being around 17-22 inches of mercury, my car is around 25. I don't know how to answer your question beyond it being a vacuum gauge explicitly designed for this purpose. I was actually hoping to discover incorrect ignition timing or something like that.

I think he was getting at the fact that you used "normal" as a measure. None of that matters diagnostically. What matters are real number and how it's moving in which conditions.

It's not complicated, but it's not something like "between x and y is fine."

Here's the best thing I could come up with. Feel free to ignore the article, I sure did. What matters is on the bottom. Click the scenario buttons until you find what yours is doing.

BrokenKnucklez
Apr 22, 2008

by zen death robot


Mr. Wiggles posted:

So, we may be picking this up as a band van.

http://reno.craigslist.org/cto/4876582806.html

As this isn't a Chrysler that I have a lot of experience with, what things ought we to look for beside making sure the tranny isn't toasted?

The 318 is pretty good motor... really just a toasted tranny. I am sure Kastien will chime in about his hatred of Dodge vans.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Absolutely the most reliable, easiest to maintain motorcycles on the road today...Yah cunts.

Motronic posted:

I think he was getting at the fact that you used "normal" as a measure. None of that matters diagnostically. What matters are real number and how it's moving in which conditions.

It's not complicated, but it's not something like "between x and y is fine."

Here's the best thing I could come up with. Feel free to ignore the article, I sure did. What matters is on the bottom. Click the scenario buttons until you find what yours is doing.

Which article...?

Also, every diagnostic vaccum gauge I've seen has a green zone around the numbers I stated that's 'normal'. Vacuum readings don't vary much from engine size/configuration as long as there's no forced induction involved; an engine in good condition and a good state of tune will always pull around 18-22 inches. My engine pulls more than that which makes no sense. The needle doesn't fluctuate or flutter or anything, it just sits steady with a shaking that matches the idle shake.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009


MOTRONIC FOR MODERATOR, MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN


Grimey Drawer

Slavvy posted:

Which article...?

Also, every diagnostic vaccum gauge I've seen has a green zone around the numbers I stated that's 'normal'. Vacuum readings don't vary much from engine size/configuration as long as there's no forced induction involved; an engine in good condition and a good state of tune will always pull around 18-22 inches. My engine pulls more than that which makes no sense. The needle doesn't fluctuate or flutter or anything, it just sits steady with a shaking that matches the idle shake.

Sorry, forgot to link it:
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

As to the rest.....yes, most vacuum gauges have that. It doesn't mean it's all that matters or even how to most effectively use a vacuum gauge. To diagnose what you are now describing it would be best to do things like snapping the throttle to see what the readings look like, running at higher RPMs, etc.

Vacuum rises with RPM when the throttle plate is closed like under deceleration. Under some conditions/configurations I could see this happening with a high idle or wonky valve timing/incorrect preload or advanced ignition timing. Just what is this thing idling at without load?

Motronic fucked around with this message at 21:32 on Feb 12, 2015

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Ehhh, it has pretty low mileage and doesn't claim it's slipping. If it slips funny or shifts hard, be worried, otherwise I'd consider that van. It's got low enough mileage that you can probably flush the transmission with the right fluid and then keep on top of it and not beat on it and it'll last just fine.

High mileage, already hosed trans, or hasn't been maintained properly? Run away.

Also the wiring diagrams show info for manual ones, so you could probably convert it to manual with all factory parts if you really wanted to.

Mr. Wiggles
Dec 1, 2003

I would never shop at Costco. The paper towels won't fit into my sports car!


A manual would really be preferable, especially since we're already in the mountains and it's nicer to not roast your brakes over Donner. We'll see how this one goes, though. I'm especially intrigued by the "microwave" and "commode" and "bed" options for band touring. I'll update if we buy it.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Absolutely the most reliable, easiest to maintain motorcycles on the road today...Yah cunts.

Motronic posted:

Sorry, forgot to link it:
http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm

As to the rest.....yes, most vacuum gauges have that. It doesn't mean it's all that matters or even how to most effectively use a vacuum gauge. To diagnose what you are now describing it would be best to do things like snapping the throttle to see what the readings look like, running at higher RPMs, etc.

Vacuum rises with RPM when the throttle plate is closed like under deceleration. Under some conditions/configurations I could see this happening with a high idle or wonky valve timing/incorrect preload or advanced ignition timing. Just what is this thing idling at without load?

I've looked at that site, it does none of those things. In every respect it behaves like a normal engine except for the vacuum being quite high at idle.

It idles around 900 without load when it's fully warmed up; putting it in D and switching on all the lights and wipers makes it drop to around 500. It never stalls or hesitates, it just has a really low chugging idle. I'm due for a cambelt and it has a leaking crank seal so the belt could be stretched, maybe? It's the only explanation I can think of because it's the only thing I haven't hosed around with.

West SAAB Story
Mar 13, 2014

Born From Jets!


Mr. Wiggles posted:

A manual would really be preferable, especially since we're already in the mountains and it's nicer to not roast your brakes over Donner. We'll see how this one goes, though. I'm especially intrigued by the "microwave" and "commode" and "bed" options for band touring. I'll update if we buy it.

Let me know if you'd rather have a Ford Explorer that needs an intake gasket done (leaks a bit when pushing uphill below 20F) which can now actually accelerate uphill for about half that. I don't think I'd want to take the 4.0 up Donner though. Taking it to Davis is enough of a workout. Seats are loving awesome, and it almost has a SID since its an Eddie.

Mr. Wiggles
Dec 1, 2003

I would never shop at Costco. The paper towels won't fit into my sports car!


West SAAB Story posted:

Let me know if you'd rather have a Ford Explorer that needs an intake gasket done (leaks a bit when pushing uphill below 20F) which can now actually accelerate uphill for about half that. I don't think I'd want to take the 4.0 up Donner though. Taking it to Davis is enough of a workout. Seats are loving awesome, and it almost has a SID since its an Eddie.

Does it have an awesome mural on the side though?

Nope, didn't think so.

West SAAB Story
Mar 13, 2014

Born From Jets!


I have a handful of rattlecan paints from dubious sources and could buy a six pack.. No more, though.
BUZZED STYLING IS DRUNK PAINTING

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

Slavvy posted:

It's basically a little round plastic disc with an LED inside and two terminals. You plug it into an injector connector to see if the injector's getting a pulse - safer for the ecu than a test light.
So I found no injector pulse to any injector

quote:

The fact that it's no fuel AND no spark makes me think CKPS, look at the live data and see if you can see both crank and cam sensor signals.

When this car came in, we scanned and it had an EVAP code. I tried to get crank sensor readings, or any DTCs today, and it can't connect through the DLC.

No DLC + no injector pulse/nostart = bad ecu? Why would this happen so suddenly?

ExecuDork posted:

I'm a little confused about the process here. Is it:
1. Find a car, test-drive it, buy it
2. Go to an insurance broker and get car insurance
3. Go to a MTO office and register the car, get plates.
4. Drive, be happy.
?
or do I have the order of operations wrong?
This is the right order, except if you purchase through a dealer, including used car lots, they'll licence it for you with proof of insurance.

quote:

My confusion is: can you drive around for most of a week without plates? Do you get temporary plates of some kind when you buy a car? Do I ask the seller to leave the plates on the car until I can get the registration and insurance all arranged? Can you get an emissions test with temporary or previous-owner's plates?
MTO will provide a normal plate with a temp sticker that is good for 10 days. You can only do this twice for any car, so best to register before it expires. With proof of insurance, you just go buy the real sticker and put it on the plate.

quote:

EDIT: I'll be moving to Kitchener/Waterloo, if that makes any difference.

This is where I live, so let me know if you need any assistance. As a bonus, I work at a dealership.

kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


Probably not a bad ECU, that's fairly rare, but a blown fuse or a bad relay or a corroded/broken wire in the harness? Sure, happens sometimes.

edit: alright, no DLC makes it a bit more likely that it's a junk ECU, but quite often the same relay powers the ECU and the injectors. I know a bad wire to the O2 sensor heaters on a jeep shorting to ground can pop the fuse that runs basically the entire EFI system including the ECU, because it's happened to me and a lot of people I know and that's the first fuse and wire I tell people to check.

edit 2: I checked the wiring diagrams I have available and you should check the 15 amp fuses marked "AM2" and "EFI" in the engine compartment fuse box. Do you have 12 volts at one side of the injector plug? You should. They are all powered off those fuses and the ECU grounds the other side when it wants them to fire - so if there's no ground from the ECU, OR no 12 volts from the fuse, nothing happens.

kastein fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Feb 13, 2015

mr.belowaverage
Aug 16, 2004

we have an irc channel at #SA_MeetingWomen

Thanks. I'll double check voltage at the injector plugs. I did check the EFI fuse and it was ok. I know there were a couple weird fuse names, and I checked most, but AM2 doesn't ring a bell. Looks like multimeter time.

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kastein
Aug 31, 2011

Moderator at http://www.ridgelineownersclub.com/forums/and soon to be mod of AI. MAKE AI GREAT AGAIN. Motronic for VP.


AM2 is actually the one that runs the injectors, via one circuit of the ignition switch, a junction block located somewhere or other, and a few wires. The other one runs other very important stuff that's needed for the engine to fire, too.

Here's the fuel system wiring diagram, in case you need it: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/...adPdf?id=106716
Ignition system: http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/Wd/...adPdf?id=106715

That's all the really important stuff to run the engine, which sounds like the only issue with it.

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