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Sounds like a cylinder isnt firing to me. Does the exhaust sound farty? Theres a pshh when you let off the gas you dont have a turbo right? Pull the spark plug wires one by one and see if pulling one has no change. E: ypu dont really meet the criteria for a misfire without a code being thrown so i dunno. What was that sound though? Is it repeatable? DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 01:34 on Aug 9, 2017 |
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Aug 9, 2017 01:24
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Does Prestone Universal coolant actually work for all vehicles as it claims or is it best to avoid it? My car is a 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser, and I'm thinking about using Prestone to top off the coolant temporarily (for about a week) until I get back to my regular mechanic for a transmission flush.
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Aug 9, 2017 03:56
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AbDomen posted:Does Prestone Universal coolant actually work for all vehicles as it claims or is it best to avoid it? My car is a 2006 Chrysler PT Cruiser, and I'm thinking about using Prestone to top off the coolant temporarily (for about a week) until I get back to my regular mechanic for a transmission flush. It should be fine. There was some controversy years ago with GM's Dex-cool formula, but everyone has moved on to HOAT formulas that are all mutually compatible. Chrysler has been using it since about 2001. They're different colors due to the dyes they use, not due to the formulations. Car makers like to scare you into thinking their particular antifreeze is a unique snowflake and you'll destroy your car if you don't buy it from them for $20/gal, but they're all nearly identical at this point. ETA: To head off any slap fights, yes there are differences in antifreezes, but they're generally not large and particularly for a 10-year-old car it's not going to make any difference. Deteriorata fucked around with this message at 04:20 on Aug 9, 2017 |
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Aug 9, 2017 04:17
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Deteriorata posted:It should be fine. There was some controversy years ago with GM's Dex-cool formula, but everyone has moved on to HOAT formulas that are all mutually compatible. Chrysler has been using it since about 2001. I think there is some merit in the european blends being incompatible with off-the-shelf universals, though. Correct me if I'm wrong.
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Aug 9, 2017 15:07
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Garage2Roadtrip posted:I think there is some merit in the european blends being incompatible with off-the-shelf universals, though. Correct me if I'm wrong. They're all OAT (Organic Acid Technology) at this point as far as I know, although there are some slight variations on it. NOAT is Nitrated OAT and HOAT is Hybrid OAT (uses some silicates as well as OAs for corrosion protection). They are slightly different, but mixing them isn't going to do anything significant. There is a problem if you mix the old, traditional I(norganic)AT types with modern OAT, but it's getting increasingly difficult to even find IAT antifreeze anymore.
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Aug 9, 2017 15:16
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If you have yellow-green coolant in there, it's fine. If not, figure out what you've got. Mixing OAT and HOAT is baaaaaaaad. If you're lucky you have the y-g and not one of those two.
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Aug 9, 2017 15:45
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Deteriorata posted:They're different colors due to the dyes they use, not due to the formulations. Car makers like to scare you into thinking their particular antifreeze is a unique snowflake and you'll destroy your car if you don't buy it from them for $20/gal, but they're all nearly identical at this point. 
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Aug 9, 2017 15:50
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Godholio posted:If you have yellow-green coolant in there, it's fine. If not, figure out what you've got. Mixing OAT and HOAT is baaaaaaaad. If you're lucky you have the y-g and not one of those two. Color no longer means anything. Everybody dyes their antifreeze a different color now, even when the formulations are identical. HOAT and OAT are mutually compatible. IAT is not compatible with OAT types. http://www.eetcorp.com/antifreeze/Coolants_matrix.pdf
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Aug 9, 2017 16:05
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Since we're talking about coolant, does anyone have a trusted brand of Propylene Glycol? I just need a concentrate or 50/50 mix with some anti-corrosives added; I'm using it for a DIY water cooling loop in my electric truck.
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Aug 9, 2017 16:12
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I wanted opinionz on buying this 2012 Highlander with 133,000 miles. Is this too high? Carfax shows one owner and pretty regular maintenance. Craigslist ad Carfax If anyone knows these cars, is there some big upcoming maintenance that I'll end up having to pay for? Timing belt sounds like it should have been done around the 90k mark? The KBB for private party 'very good' condition is 18,500, so pretty close. I was thinking if I can get what's quoted as the out the door price then I'll bite.
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Aug 9, 2017 16:35
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carcinofuck posted:I wanted opinionz on buying this 2012 Highlander with 133,000 miles. Is this too high? Carfax shows one owner and pretty regular maintenance. The 2GR-FXE V6 engine uses a timing chain, not a belt. Just keep the oil changed, and check the air filter. For some reason I find dirty air filters in hybrids WAY more often then conventional cars. The struts can be expensive because it's struts on all 4 corners unlike most vehicles with 2 shocks and 2 struts. Remember that the Highlander is basically a jacked-up Camry wagon chassis/engine wise, and shares many parts with it. The struts not a maintenance item, they are a wear item. Depending on where it was driven, it might need them soon. It's a good car. Those things are really fast, and I love driving them. You're paying a premium because hybrid, especially in California. The AWD in a Hybrid Highlander is interesting - there's no driveshaft from front to back at all. An electric diff powers the rear wheels - and only below like 25mph. Make sure the coolant has been changed. The hybrid system takes a LOT more coolant, and has multiple loops and reservoirs. There is a special bleeding procedure that involves running one of the electric coolant pumps when filling. Apparently it CAN be done without a scan tool, but it's probably a job best left to the dealer and not a oilchange/lube shop. The brake fluid is important too. Most newer Toyotas and especially Hybrids have an integrated master cylinder/ABS pump/ABS ECM. This unit is INSANELY expensive (like 3k or so) so keep that brake fluid fresh. You'll see the GIANT tank of brake fluid when you open the hood. The car has a normal 12v car battery that powers the lights and accessories. It also turns on the HV relays to connect the big battery when you "start" the car, so if this 12v battery is dead, you'll have weird problems. The 12v battery can be easily tested by any shop. This expected life of this 12v battery is around 5 years. The HV battery is "designed to last the life of the vehicle" On a new car they are warrantied for 100,000 miles. On a Toyota hybrid they really do last a very long time. If they die, it's pretty easy to get a salvage pack from a junkyard, or a rebuilt unit from parts stores. On a Honda Hybrid though? GOOD LUCK WITH THAT. They have a much higher failure rate. 0toShifty fucked around with this message at 17:56 on Aug 9, 2017 |
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Aug 9, 2017 17:52
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I didn't see a better thread to ask this in so I have two hypothetical questions. Assuming you were going to retro build your dream muscle car nearly from scratch using only the original sheet metal, assuming that you may want to do some track days occasionally but most use would be on the street: Which engine would you use and why? The primary options are:
What automatic transmission would you use and why?
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Aug 9, 2017 17:54
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Any recommendations for an online retailer that sells nuts and bolts?
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Aug 9, 2017 18:09
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0toShifty posted:The 2GR-FXE V6 engine uses a timing chain... I'm thinking with a car with this much mileage I'll have a mechanic check it out, are the things you mentioned idiosyncratic enough that not every mechanic would know of them? I'll make sure to ask about the struts.
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Aug 9, 2017 18:20
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ROFLburger posted:Any recommendations for an online retailer that sells nuts and bolts? https://www.boltdepot.com/ Shipping can be a bear on smaller orders, but they have tons of poo poo.
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Aug 9, 2017 18:22
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BitBasher posted:I didn't see a better thread to ask this in so I have two hypothetical questions. Assuming you were going to retro build your dream muscle car nearly from scratch using only the original sheet metal, assuming that you may want to do some track days occasionally but most use would be on the street: A stock (or stock-ish) LS3 is nothing to sneeze at and is plenty of power to get in big trouble with. There's also nothing stopping you from building it later. On the transmission side... yech. The 4L60E would be pretty heavily stressed by any of these engines, no matter how well you get the transmission built. A 4L80E / 4L85E will certainly live better, but you're still dealing with only four gears and transmission programming that is always going to want to upshift as soon as you get out of the throttle. Are you going with a full manual valvebody (or however they accomplish this with the *E transmissions)? The 6L80 might be a little better suited to this. I'd still say TR6060 / Magnum if your goal is to build this for track days (bro).
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Aug 9, 2017 18:28
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BitBasher posted:I didn't see a better thread to ask this in so I have two hypothetical questions. Assuming you were going to retro build your dream muscle car nearly from scratch using only the original sheet metal, assuming that you may want to do some track days occasionally but most use would be on the street: LSX376-B15 crate, supercharger at 15 pounds or so of boost and a TCI 6x 6 speed 4L80. Thats if its your wallet is deep.
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Aug 9, 2017 18:44
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Hey, speaking of 4L60Es: I killed the one in my '01, 2wd 5.3L silverado while towing my boat. It climbed to 295 degrees at idle and now neutral and reverse see forward movement so I'm guessing I have a hosed valve body and glassed clutches. I could use any advice regarding rebuilding vs reman replacement. The shops in town have quoted me $2200-2600 for an OE grade reman, installed with a 3-yr/100k warranty. Rural shop recommended by a coworker suggested they rebuild it (w/ heavier duty components) to the tune of $1600-1800, warranties for 1yr/13k. Being a skinflint, I'm also considering buying an eBay remanded for $1000-1500 after shipping and core. I guess I could also just grab a used transmission, but I'm wary of paying $600 for something of unknown provenance. Any anecdotes about remanufactured or rebuilt transmissions?
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Aug 9, 2017 18:49
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Boys who love boys
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Zero VGS posted:Since we're talking about coolant, does anyone have a trusted brand of Propylene Glycol? I just need a concentrate or 50/50 mix with some anti-corrosives added; I'm using it for a DIY water cooling loop in my electric truck. Vanfrost Inhibited is what we use on our HVAC coils and glycol loops at work. Good product, already has the corrosion additives, nothing bad to say about it.
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Aug 9, 2017 18:54
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I did an eBay remanned transmission when I put a 700R4 in my C10. It lasted all of three years before it popped behind a ~250hp (and very, very tired) SBC. Gave it to a friend when the LS1 went in, and he had his transmission guy rebuild it... said that whoever built it for me had made some very questionable choices. This was before the days of Yelp, though, so it was a bit of a crap shoot. These days at least you should be able to find the shop and find external reviews on them, since eBay's own tools are going to be very limited in this.
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Aug 9, 2017 18:56
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I would let the local guy rebuild it. Its too easy to screw someone on ebay especially with an item like a trans. 4L60E should be a bread and butter job for a local shop and good rebuild kits have stronger/updated components that are better than OE. So unless you get the absolute rookie (like myself, I hosed up a 700R4 rebuild) it should turn out great. And if it doesn't you know where to drop it off.
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Aug 9, 2017 19:03
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ROFLburger posted:Any recommendations for an online retailer that sells nuts and bolts? McMaster-Carr
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Aug 9, 2017 19:56
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rdb posted:LSX376-B15 crate, supercharger at 15 pounds or so of boost and a TCI 6x 6 speed 4L80. Thats if its your wallet is deep. I was under the impression that the LSx was a lot heavier than the LS3 being iron instead of aluminum. The car in question already has front end weight balance issues which is why I was trying to stay with an aluminum block. At the HP ratings I was considering I was told that the aluminum block is fine, but I can always be wrong. That said, that transmission looks very nice. I'm kind of seeing that no off the shelf transmissions are good for 700 to 800 foot pounds of torque.
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Aug 9, 2017 20:41
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I think the difference is ~100lbs. So yeah, that and a blower is probably 200-250lbs heavier than an LS3. But it carries a factory warranty with up to 15lbs of boost where an LS3 does not. Its dreamy. And I think I read its a 1000hp engine with 20lbs fed to it, 850ish with 15. The extra weight will help keep the front wheels down.
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Aug 9, 2017 22:19
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Somebody talk me out of drooling over the ls7
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Aug 9, 2017 23:03
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Deteriorata posted:Color no longer means anything. Everybody dyes their antifreeze a different color now, even when the formulations are identical. Agreed, but usually the yellow green stuff is the "normal" antifreeze. quote:HOAT and OAT are mutually compatible. IAT is not compatible with OAT types. This throws a wrench into the leading theory on why newish Jeeps keep finding sludge in their radiators, heater cores, and overflow bottles.
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Aug 10, 2017 00:10
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carcinofuck posted:I'm thinking with a car with this much mileage I'll have a mechanic check it out, are the things you mentioned idiosyncratic enough that not every mechanic would know of them? I'll make sure to ask about the struts. It's worth having any car checked out by a mechanic before purchase, but a modern vehicle that sees regular use scares me a lot less than an older creampuff that only gets driven to church and back once a week. With those kind of miles, it's likely spent a lot of time on the highway, which are pretty easy on the car in terms of wear and tear. You'll want to make sure the transmission fluid gets changed soon if it hasn't been done by the PO. Go to a dealer to get it done, that way you know the right fluid gets used. Toyota says it's good for the life of the car, but most people I know with Toyota hybrides change it every 50-75k just as a precaution.
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Aug 10, 2017 00:23
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I'm pretty sure in Wisconsin you're legally obligated to have the car checked out, namely I think the seller is required to do so. I could be wrong, however.
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Aug 10, 2017 00:31
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carcinofuck posted:Awesome thanks for the information. Do you have one of these? I have a Prius and I was a PA state inspection tech that also did a few pre purchase inspections. Definitely get it checked out. I've found perfect looking cars with replaced Chinese fenders, and one with a replaced subframe and radiator support that had clean carfax reports. Accidents can happen to any car, any age. An improperly repaired accident could lead to something dumb like tire wear, but if you get in another catastrophic accident, the car's safety features and crumple zones might not work as intended.
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Aug 10, 2017 02:07
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BitBasher posted:I didn't see a better thread to ask this in so I have two hypothetical questions. Assuming you were going to retro build your dream muscle car nearly from scratch using only the original sheet metal, assuming that you may want to do some track days occasionally but most use would be on the street: The LT4 crate looks like a pretty great deal for what it is. Just make sure you do something better about charge cooling than Chevy did. This has the advantage of being mostly factory parts, instead of having to find a trustworthy engine builder. Dunno how it stacks against other crate 600+HP motors, though. But I find the price pretty compelling! For the trans, yeah a 4L80E or 6L80E are going to be pretty much your only options if you want an automatic. Denmah puts tons of power through them without any issue, and 60Es are known for failing even behind stock V6s. Really, it comes down to what you're using the car for. This is for the Chevelle of Theseus, right? How are you going to drive it most of the time? How much power do you like to have on tap? Are you going to drive it hard most of the time, or are you an old dude at a car show? Supercharged engines are said to drive similarly to NA engines of equal power, but I've not driven anything making more than 400HP before so I can't speak authoritatively about any of that stuff. Just my 2 cents from the sidelines. rdb posted:6 speed 4L80 what do you think the 4 in 4L80E means
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Aug 10, 2017 03:54
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TCI did some weird poo poo to make a 4L80 have six ratios, it's a thing. It's also probably more expensive than a 6L80.
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Aug 10, 2017 04:01
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Hey my friends E93 had it's hood emblem stolen by some rear end in a top hat, where can I get a good replacement for a reasonable amount of money? I was checking amazon out of curiosity and it seems that they're all cheap lovely plastic knockoffs that will discolor and fall apart if you actually leave them on a car outside in the sun. There has to be a cheaper way than going to the dealership, right?
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Aug 10, 2017 04:12
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rdb posted:I think the difference is ~100lbs. So yeah, that and a blower is probably 200-250lbs heavier than an LS3. But it carries a factory warranty with up to 15lbs of boost where an LS3 does not. Its dreamy. And I think I read its a 1000hp engine with 20lbs fed to it, 850ish with 15. The extra weight will help keep the front wheels down. 100 lbs in the front is a lot for a car that is notoriously front heavy to start with, like 60/40. The IRS in the back will add 100 to the rear, which helps, but it still is pretty far from good. The car in default state was 1735/1480 f/r with a v8. This is why I really want to stay with an aluminum block, even without a supercharger I can get that LS3 to at least 625 HP when stroked. Raluek posted:The LT4 crate looks like a pretty great deal for what it is. Just make sure you do something better about charge cooling than Chevy did. This has the advantage of being mostly factory parts, instead of having to find a trustworthy engine builder. Dunno how it stacks against other crate 600+HP motors, though. But I find the price pretty compelling! The LT4 looks drat nice, but I can get one with similar HP in a 416 stroker naturally aspirated at similar HP. Which I can then supercharge if I need to because I want more later. So little of this car is factory anything I wasn't even really counting that as a huge advantage. Now I need to look up charge cooling issues... Raluek posted:For the trans, yeah a 4L80E or 6L80E are going to be pretty much your only options if you want an automatic. Denmah puts tons of power through them without any issue, and 60Es are known for failing even behind stock V6s. This is for Theseus. I'm getting plans on paper for future phases. Yeah, I know the 60 seems deficient but there are companies that swear they can take 850 whp and they transfer power better than the heavier transmissions. I really just need to admit I'll need a heavier trans. gently caress car shows, I want this to drive. This is a car to be used. I don't care about being seen in it or other people staring at it, this car is for me, not them. Hell, I plan to tint the windows so they can't see me. That being said I'm not sure how much power is too much to be comfortable to drive with no traction control or ABS. I'm not building this to be enough car or reasonable. The goal is kind of to be unreasonable. I want it to be ridiculous if I feel like it. I'm not particularly easy on cars. BitBasher fucked around with this message at 04:25 on Aug 10, 2017 |
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Aug 10, 2017 04:18
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Hugh G. Rectum posted:Hey my friends E93 had it's hood emblem stolen by some rear end in a top hat, where can I get a good replacement for a reasonable amount of money? I was checking amazon out of curiosity and it seems that they're all cheap lovely plastic knockoffs that will discolor and fall apart if you actually leave them on a car outside in the sun. There has to be a cheaper way than going to the dealership, right? Junkyard, bmw forums, ebay.
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Aug 10, 2017 04:36
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PaintVagrant posted:Junkyard, bmw forums, ebay. Getbmwparts.com is the web sales for bmw of silver spring. Decent prices, good service.
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Aug 10, 2017 05:04
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If money isnt a concern check out the lenco automatics its a planetary gearset so you can probably handle up to 1,000hp and its lighter than anything out there. You do pay for it though, but at 600hp itll be bulletproof. https://lencoracing.com/lencodrive%20/Lencodrive-4-Speed
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Aug 10, 2017 05:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:TCI did some weird poo poo to make a 4L80 have six ratios, it's a thing. Okay, guess I'm an idiot. My bad. BitBasher posted:100 lbs in the front is a lot for a car that is notoriously front heavy to start with, like 60/40. The IRS in the back will add 100 to the rear, which helps, but it still is pretty far from good. The car in default state was 1735/1480 f/r with a v8. This is why I really want to stay with an aluminum block, even without a supercharger I can get that LS3 to at least 625 HP when stroked. Obviously charge cooling is only a thing for forced induction motors. There's not enough intercooler in the LT4 'vettes; they heatsoak after a lap or two at the track, the IATs go up, and they lose power. Don't gamble with a built 60. Like I said, none of this is firsthand knowledge, but I just don't trust the 60 to be robust over a long term. My reason for suggesting that OEM-ness is to be desired is that it's probably designed to be more durable than a real race motor. Since I haven't driven anything that fast, I can't comment about how a blown 650HP motor drives differently than an NA 650HP motor; hopefully someone who has can chime in. As for adding a blower later, well, a high compression NA motor is going to be built very differently than a blown motor. You'd want lower compression and a different cam in a FI application I think. Anyway I don't think you can just stick a supercharger onto a hotted up NA motor without changing a bunch of other stuff. And again it will come down to how you drive the car: highway cruising, quarter mile drags, road course, etc. One thing I have heard over and over is that you can never have enough power. You'll get used to whatever you have, and there will always be someone faster you'll want to chase. 
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Aug 10, 2017 06:19
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Friend's car. 2009 Chevy HHR, 2.2 (LE8, which is basically a flex fuel LAP), but the codes/parts seem to apply to any Ecotec 4 cyl VVT. Throwing P0010 and P0011 (Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit (Bank 1), Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)), , bit down on power and MPG, starts easily. Idle is a bit rough. Google and other forums suggest the codes and symptoms are the VVT solenoid for the intake cam. Any suggestions before throwing a solenoid at it? Solenoid is $35 for OEM, both codes combined point at a bad solenoid or something in the wiring to me, but I just want to make sure I'm on the right track before I throw parts at it. These are the only codes it's throwing. I didn't get a chance to watch any live data (not sure what I could watch on Torque that would be helpful anyway).
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Aug 10, 2017 06:49
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Raluek posted:Okay, guess I'm an idiot. My bad. I had to look it up myself, it actually is pretty ingenious. The 4L80 is apparently internally laid out more like a three speed with an overdrive unit, so they literally just engage the overdrive on top of first and second instead of only in third.
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Aug 10, 2017 07:25
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How is the reliability of Mitsubishi these days? A 2017 mirage with 4k miles? Is it a shotbox and that's why it's so cheap? (12k) Also Looking for economical dailly driver around 10-11k used. cods fucked around with this message at 14:30 on Aug 10, 2017 |
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Aug 10, 2017 14:26
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