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Minto Took posted:gently caress drum brakes.
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May 10, 2020 18:24
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C-Bangin' it 
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'09 Camry Hybrid, does it use the big hybrid battery or the 12v to start? I thought it still used the 12v but I read elsewhere that it uses the engine-driving battery.
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May 10, 2020 18:50
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It uses the hybrid battery and one of the motors inside the transmission. It still won't start without the 12V battery, because it needs that to power the electronics (specifically to close the contactors)  Someone that's not a dumbass might know more.e2: okay, I guess maybe Rockauto is wrong. It probably uses the motor/gen in the transaxle to start. So my original reply applies. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 21:19 on May 10, 2020 |
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May 10, 2020 21:09
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22 Eargesplitten posted:'09 Camry Hybrid, does it use the big hybrid battery or the 12v to start? I thought it still used the 12v but I read elsewhere that it uses the engine-driving battery. It uses the 12v to close the huge contactors (like relays) to the hybrid battery. That's what turns the engine.
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May 10, 2020 21:09
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Minto Took posted:gently caress drum brakes. Double gently caress drum/disc combos. My dad's old F250 had discs on the outside rears with a drum E brake on the inside.
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May 10, 2020 21:49
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Pretty much any system with a parking brake with this way. Rear brakes use hydraulic brakes for main stopping for for parking / emergency brake, they are cable actuated drum style brakes.
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May 10, 2020 22:12
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My VW used the disc brakes for the parking brake. The piston has a thread on it so that it turns during actuation. The parking brake turns the piston, clamping the pads. It also meant that you needed to rotate the piston to get it to retract during a brake change, either with a special tool of loving around with pliers.
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May 10, 2020 22:21
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Uthor posted:My VW used the disc brakes for the parking brake. The piston has a thread on it so that it turns during actuation. The parking brake turns the piston, clamping the pads. It also meant that you needed to rotate the piston to get it to retract during a brake change, either with a special tool of loving around with pliers. I recently picked up a $20 brake caliper kit because I got tired of loving around with pliers. Highly recommend.
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May 10, 2020 22:31
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0toShifty posted:It uses the 12v to close the huge contactors (like relays) to the hybrid battery. That's what turns the engine. Ah, okay. I hadn't started it in too long and it wouldn't start without being jumped, but even after running for 20 minutes or so, as soon as I shut it off it won't even try to start again, won't lock, no lights on dash, sounds like the battery is super dead. I don't have a voltage tester, though. Guess I could take it to a shop and have them test it, but it's probably dead. For all I know it's the original battery from 11 years and 170k miles ago.
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May 10, 2020 22:38
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Uthor posted:My VW used the disc brakes for the parking brake. The piston has a thread on it so that it turns during actuation. The parking brake turns the piston, clamping the pads. It also meant that you needed to rotate the piston to get it to retract during a brake change, either with a special tool of loving around with pliers. My wife’s Civic has these kind of rear brakes and they kick rear end. FWIW, I can use a big screwdriver to recess the pistons.
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May 11, 2020 00:04
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I've mentioned this in various threads on here before WRT to spinning the rear brake pistons back in to the caliper when doing a rear brake job. Here's what you do that makes it easy as gently caress: Get a "disc brake cube" put it on a 3/8" socket extension. Get a socket-drill adaptor. The same type of thing you'd use to be banging nuts and bolts with your cordless impact driver. Chuck that poo poo up in a drill with the clutch setting on low, and speed on low. Put a small dab of lube under the dust boot that protects the sides of the piston from poo poo. Using the apparatus noted above, use your drill on low speed to turn your piston in the appropriate direction to retract it back in to the caliper. Its easy as gently caress and will take about 30 seconds each caliper.. I worked at a garage in the late 90s, and one of the few cars that came in that had rear discs (early 90s Buick Regal) had that set up. I watched the mechanic struggle for ages, with a pair of needle nose pliers screwing the piston back in and said "gently caress that poo poo" when it came time to do the rear brakes on my car (09 Corolla) that has that same system.
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May 11, 2020 11:57
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wesleywillis posted:I've mentioned this in various threads on here before WRT to spinning the rear brake pistons back in to the caliper when doing a rear brake job. Here's what you do that makes it easy as gently caress: That's all well and good until you encounter a late model Focus, which your little cube doesn't work on. Also, while I admire your dedication to expediency, the tools that come in most of the master brake caliper piston sets are pretty nice and painless.
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May 11, 2020 13:47
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Yes, "rent" the discs for that job.
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May 11, 2020 14:01
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22 Eargesplitten posted:Ah, okay. I hadn't started it in too long and it wouldn't start without being jumped, but even after running for 20 minutes or so, as soon as I shut it off it won't even try to start again, won't lock, no lights on dash, sounds like the battery is super dead. I don't have a voltage tester, though. Guess I could take it to a shop and have them test it, but it's probably dead. For all I know it's the original battery from 11 years and 170k miles ago. The 12v battery on the Prius anyway is much smaller than a normal 12v battery in the average car. They last about 5 years. Mine is 7 right now, I tested it recently and it needs replacement for sure - but it's still working and I know what to do the day it says nope.
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May 11, 2020 14:10
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Colostomy Bag posted:Yes, "rent" the discs for that job. I tried to the two times I did it. However, shitheads have ratfucked the kits and I had to drive 30 miles out of my way both times. I'd rather have the chineseum grade $20 kit on the shelf. It's probably the only bit of kit I own that isn't actually applicable to any of my vehicles, but as 90% of my shadetree is brakes, I'm glad to have it.
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May 11, 2020 14:38
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Beach Bum posted:I tried to the two times I did it. However, shitheads have ratfucked the kits and I had to drive 30 miles out of my way both times. I'd rather have the chineseum grade $20 kit on the shelf. It's probably the only bit of kit I own that isn't actually applicable to any of my vehicles, but as 90% of my shadetree is brakes, I'm glad to have it. Yeah, can understand that. It is easy to screw-up tools. And especially the loaners.
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May 11, 2020 14:51
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2017 Subaru WRX One of the holes for the rear license plate is rusting really badly, like inside the hole and probably starting to rust the trunk around that area under the paint. How do I fix that? It still holds a thread in some fashion, although I'm not sure if there's a captive nut in there somewhere.
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May 11, 2020 16:33
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How does anything on a 2017 car rust? Must be either the dealer just running the screw / bolt straight through, or some defect from the factory?
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May 11, 2020 16:35
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MrOnBicycle posted:How does anything on a 2017 car rust? Must be either the dealer just running the screw / bolt straight through, or some defect from the factory? I live in Wisconsin and it's behind the license plate so whatever salt gets up there probably hasn't been washed out all that well. I haven't removed the plate until today as I wanted to clean up the registration sticker pile, although the plate looks like poo poo and I should have realized there was a chance for rust behind it. All of those other things are possibilities too - my concern is less "how" and more "what do I do about this before my trunk disintegrates"
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May 11, 2020 16:39
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shortspecialbus posted:I live in Wisconsin and it's behind the license plate so whatever salt gets up there probably hasn't been washed out all that well. I haven't removed the plate until today as I wanted to clean up the registration sticker pile, although the plate looks like poo poo and I should have realized there was a chance for rust behind it. drat that sucks. I'd clean up, put some good rust converter/inhibitor on it and finish with touch up paint. I'd probably push some into the other hole as well just in case.
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May 11, 2020 16:42
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Yeah, I'd use a rust converter or reformer, and get it all over inside that thing.
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May 11, 2020 17:07
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shortspecialbus posted:I live in Wisconsin and it's behind the license plate so whatever salt gets up there probably hasn't been washed out all that well. I haven't removed the plate until today as I wanted to clean up the registration sticker pile, although the plate looks like poo poo and I should have realized there was a chance for rust behind it. Is it worth trying to get it covered under your corrosion protection warranty? I guess the worst they can do is say no if you ask.
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May 11, 2020 17:46
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nitsuga posted:Is it worth trying to get it covered under your corrosion protection warranty? I guess the worst they can do is say no if you ask. That's actually an excellent question and I forgot about that. I'll give them a call and see what happens.
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May 11, 2020 18:21
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 drat this corona unemployment!. My elderly neighbor that I've been helping with chores for years has a 2004 mazdaspeed miata with only 29k buried deep in her garage that she's willing to sell me but I can't in good conscience buy it with no job 
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May 11, 2020 21:42
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tactlessbastard posted:
How soon does she want to sell it?
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May 12, 2020 12:02
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tactlessbastard posted:
Your username has inspired me to ask: Where and how much? e: I kid. Here's what I'm eying now as my new DD if I can get the seller to respond on FB Marketplace.  It needs a trunk pan & some floor welding. Seller's been weirdly slow to respond to queries - the ad first went up in mid-February; it's still up, and he finally messaged me in early March that he had issues to deal with & the sale was on the back burner. I assumed he had his hands full with COVID and laid off for the time being. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:12 on May 12, 2020 |
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May 12, 2020 14:59
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You could put like three crate engines in there
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May 12, 2020 17:01
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I have a car (~7 year old Subaru) with a standard lead acid 12V battery and I also have a Duralast DL-15 battery charger. When I set the charger on a 3A charge, it autodetects the percent the battery is charged and goes into maintenance mode when the battery is full. The issue is, when it's in that full maint mode, I can unplug the charger, wait a few seconds for it to fully power down, and then reconnect it. After reconnect it will say the battery is, say, ~82% full and begin charging again. Why is the charger so bad at knowing whether the battery is full or not; why does that reading change on immediate reconnect? Is this common across various chargers or is mine faulty? Is it perhaps related to my battery being kinda old and partially done with its useful life? Anyone else have this happen when they charge a 12V batt? I am good at knowing how batteries work, but bad at knowing the gotchas of commodity battery chargers.
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May 12, 2020 17:04
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The charger implies the percent based on the voltage of the battery given no other info, which is not very accurate. Once it starts charging, it can tell that the battery won't take more charge even if it was sitting at a lower voltage than nominal. Seems to me the battery is not able to hold 100% rated capacity anymore.
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May 12, 2020 17:15
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wesleywillis posted:How soon does she want to sell it? When she goes into a home eventually. She gave me first right of refusal.
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May 12, 2020 17:31
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pmchem posted:I have a car (~7 year old Subaru) with a standard lead acid 12V battery and I also have a Duralast DL-15 battery charger. As taqueso notes it could just be an aging battery and your charger bases the initial percentage reading on the voltage compared to ideal for a lead-acid battery. Detecting full is done differently, once the battery has hit the expected voltage the current flowing in to it slowly drops off, then once it drops to a certain level the charger considers it full and switches to a trickle/float mode. It could also be a dying battery. The last time I killed a car battery I could charge it up to full, disconnect the charger, and be down to 11 volts in the time it took for me to get to the driver's seat. You could literally watch on a multimeter as the voltage ticked down after either disconnecting the charge or shutting off the car.
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May 12, 2020 17:55
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My truck won't start It's a 2012 GMC Canyon SLT (crew cab with the V8 and 4WD) with ~90,xxx miles and it's been sitting for a few weeks. The battery died, but there's something else wrong. Even with a jump, it doesn't even attempt to crank. When I turn the key, I can hear a repeated clicking noise from under the hood, and nothing else. The check engine light also flashes when this is happening. When I put the key in the accessory position, several scary messages are displayed on the dash: "check stability system", "check engine", "check ABS". I'm hoping all of those systems didn't spontaneously fail, so... what does that mean? An electrical failure somewhere Any suggestions for narrowing it down? I'm not very mechanically-minded, but I'm secretly hoping to be able to resolve this without having to call a tow truck.
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May 12, 2020 18:16
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dominicds posted:My truck won't start Those all sound like dead battery symptoms. Try charging it with a battery tender first.
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May 12, 2020 18:20
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dominicds posted:My truck won't start (a) thanks wolrah / taqueso for your replies to my post (b), in my reply to the post above, that's pretty much exactly what happened to one of my Subarus (although my post basically generalized across a few batteries). Couldn't even jump the dead one. The duralast DL-15 from autozone brought the dead battery back to life after a desulfation cycle, although, it's clearly on its last legs. I am keeping it charged.
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May 12, 2020 18:24
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Thanks folks, fingers crossed that it's a dead battery
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May 12, 2020 18:30
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dominicds posted:Thanks folks, fingers crossed that it's a dead battery I am extremely confident it's just a a dead dead battery. How old is it? Do you know? Is it original?
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May 12, 2020 18:55
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dominicds posted:My truck won't start Hook up jumper cables, start the other vehicle, and just leave it for at least half an hour (after verifying power IS getting to the Canyon). It might help to hold the RPMs of the other vehicle around ~1500 for a little bit. That might get enough charge into the battery to at least let it try to start. GMs (well, most modern cars with 50 different control modules all on one network) get real weird when the battery voltage drops too low, especially since the engine computer controls the starter. Either way, new battery time, even if you do happen to get it to start. And if you try to drive it too much after getting it started but before a new battery, you'll be looking at a new alternator too.
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May 12, 2020 19:37
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Joining in on the almost certainly a dead battery pile. Low voltage causes all kinds of electronic systems to freak the gently caress out. When multiple otherwise unrelated systems start throwing fits simultaneously or near simultaneously it's almost always either low voltage or a bad ground. When the alternator failed on my BMW the battery light lit up approximately 5 seconds before the entire rest of the dash christmas tree'd.
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May 12, 2020 20:21
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My wife is giving back her Fit lease and I’m selling my TL so we can consolidate to one car, a CRV, officially entering the era of us being boring and approaching middle aged It’s partially for our dog, partially for our bikes and partially so we can have AWD for when winter strikes us in Alberta soon enough. I have a few dumb questions 1) is there any downside to getting a set of winter tires and rims that are smaller than the set we are getting with the vehicle? We bought the Black Edition (getting it tomorrow) and I don’t want to gently caress the rims up in the cold unpredictable weather. They’re 19” which is pretty and all but I don’t care about having big tires or rims in the winter, steelies would be fine. I heard this can gently caress with the odometer of a vehicle calibrated for the wheel size it’s designed for but that was my dad and he’s old 2) Are mats from Findway as good as weather tech ones? They’re Canadian and over $100 cheaper with free shipping to Alberta but i can’t seem to find much feedback. They do look good 3) The vehicle comes with roof rails, what is the most efficient way to get into a roof rack for bike and/or storage? Not in a rush since the campsites are closed but it’ll be nice to have 4) Knowing black is a bitch to keep looking clean - should I be polishing this thing monthly or doing something else? I know automatic car washes are a no but Calgary has a bylaw against bucket washing so I’ll need to take it to an actual car wash and hand wash it unfortunately. 5) Is synthetic oil worth it on a non luxury vehicle? I used it for my TL oil changes because the owner’s manual suggested it
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May 12, 2020 21:27
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Nairbo posted:My wife is giving back her Fit lease and I’m selling my TL so we can consolidate to one car, a CRV, officially entering the era of us being boring and approaching middle aged 1. you can use tirerack to find equivlent sizes of steelies and tires that will match your OE total diameter / circumfrence. 2. I dunno 3. You can get some crossbars from amazon / ebay wahtever that will fit any vehicle, or OE ones then get rack attachments for your bikes / kayaks / storage bin wahtever 4. Just wash it and then wax it at home on a semi-regular basis at the hand powerwash or touchless car wash. 5. Most modern cars require a weight only available in synthetic, use what is recommended in the manual. My Sienna is hardly a luxury vehicle but it takes 0w20 which is synthetic only.
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May 12, 2020 21:41
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