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Ammanas posted:i tried using the clearing device autozone had but it didn't respond (probably user error on my part). the guy suggested driving around for a bit, which i did. Leaving the battery disconnected for 15 or so minutes should clear everything
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Jul 4, 2020 21:50
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vulturesrow posted:Yeah a little while back at an auto parts store and honestly the guy seemed like he really had no clue. All he said was "it's low on charge" which was a no-brainer since that's why I brought it there. What can I check in the battery with the multimeter other than voltage and draw? So there are "quick battery testers" that will definitely tell you if a battery is low on charge or very much bad. That's likely what was used. Then there are REAL battery testers that all of them have and never want to use. They have them because that's the only way you can warranty exchange a battery. They are "carbon pile". They basically charge the battery to full and then run an ACTUAL load test on it. This is the real deal test, and take an hour or more. If you have an other vehicle and can pull your battery and drop it off I'm sure somebody will run it for you.
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Jul 4, 2020 21:51
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Ammanas posted:i tried using the clearing device autozone had but it didn't respond (probably user error on my part). the guy suggested driving around for a bit, which i did. I'm around 99% sure it is the coil. The ECM needs a pretty good drive cycle to determine a coil is bad. Sounds like the permanent code (cyl #1) wasn't cleared.
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Jul 4, 2020 21:58
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:I'm around 99% sure it is the coil. So replacing the rightmost (when facing the car) coil seems reasonable right? edit: looked it up, this car has a k engine so cylinder #1 is on the left if im reading this right Ammanas fucked around with this message at 22:07 on Jul 4, 2020 |
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Jul 4, 2020 22:01
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Ammanas posted:So replacing the rightmost (when facing the car) coil seems reasonable right? Another question, has it been damp/rainy/humid in your neck of the woods? Edit: Just to add, if my car, I'd replace the coil. Prices vary. Since it such an easy job, I'd probably go with middle-of-the-road. Hopefully Honda experts chime in. Colostomy Bag fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Jul 4, 2020 |
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Jul 4, 2020 22:07
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nah, hot and dry in norcal. yeah im gonna replace the leftmost coil.
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Jul 4, 2020 22:17
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yeah it was the leftmost coil. thanks for your help guys.
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Jul 4, 2020 22:48
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vulturesrow posted:Yeah a little while back at an auto parts store and honestly the guy seemed like he really had no clue. All he said was "it's low on charge" which was a no-brainer since that's why I brought it there. What can I check in the battery with the multimeter other than voltage and draw? You can try measuring voltage while you're cranking the starter. If it drops a lot you've got a problem. Not sure what the hard numbers are. If STR pops in this thread he might know. Otherwise just measuring voltage doesn't give you an indication of battery health, generally. The parts store should have a way of telling how many cranking amps it's putting out, but it should be charged first, I'd presume. Edit: I missed a whole nother page of replies! my bad. Edit 2: the real deal battery tester Carquest used for me took an hour.
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Jul 4, 2020 22:50
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Ammanas posted:yeah it was the leftmost coil. thanks for your help guys. Great! Glad we could help and thanks for feedback. Helps us respond faster/better in the future.
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Jul 4, 2020 23:11
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melon cat posted:2007 Corolla LE. I reuse those smaller clamps if they still feel tight. If they are loose or bent, obviously toss them, but I don't think putting a few seconds of pressure on them to remove them will distort them too bad. No idea if replacing he inner tie rod boot clamp with zip ties would be good though. I'd certainly try it if it wasn't too difficult to re-do if it ends up breaking off. But if it's something that took a lot of effort to get to, I'd spring for the expensive part so I don't have to do a difficult job twice.
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Jul 5, 2020 00:24
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Zipties, the big fat ones, are just fine for boots. Do get the nice Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Jul 5, 2020 |
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Jul 5, 2020 00:59
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Stupid question: Is a salvage title on a used car really a no-go? Will it be very difficult or costly to insure?
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Jul 5, 2020 04:42
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Read this thread title: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538&pagenumber=619&perpage=40 Tl;dr: if you have to ask, don't do it. I can see very specific reasons to ignore the advice (building a race car).
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Jul 5, 2020 04:47
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I wouldn't pay more than salvage/parts value for a salvage titled car, especially if you can't see some of the work that was done. Corners get cut.
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Jul 5, 2020 05:03
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Beach Bum posted:Zipties, the big fat ones, are just fine for boots. Do get the nice double-lockers though. GOD IS BED posted:No idea if replacing he inner tie rod boot clamp with zip ties would be good though. I'd certainly try it if it wasn't too difficult to re-do if it ends up breaking off. But if it's something that took a lot of effort to get to, I'd spring for the expensive part so I don't have to do a difficult job twice. melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Jul 5, 2020 |
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Jul 5, 2020 05:33
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If its a bigger version of that and you're not in a rush you could get something from Amazon or wherever. If you are in a rush, then maybe just buy a couple gear clamps that look like the right size from Canadian tire. Get stainless if you can. Hot tip: if its in a really tight spot, get it as tight as you can while still being able to slip it over the lip or on to the boot and then use a dime or quarter ti tighten it most of the way. Then try a wrench for the final tightening. E: looked at the pic of the other clamp. If you can get a zip tie tight enough its probably not a bad solution. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 16:44 on Jul 5, 2020 |
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Jul 5, 2020 16:39
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Charles posted:You can try measuring voltage while you're cranking the starter. If it drops a lot you've got a problem. Not sure what the hard numbers are. If STR pops in this thread he might know. Otherwise just measuring voltage doesn't give you an indication of battery health, generally. The parts store should have a way of telling how many cranking amps it's putting out, but it should be charged first, I'd presume. You rang? 9-10 volts is the lowest you want to see while cranking (and that's gonna be with a big engine and beefy starter); I know on my own car, it only drops to ~11.5 while cranking (and it fires so easily that I barely touch the starter), 12.7 after sitting for several days. vulturesrow, disconnect the negative battery cable immediately after driving it (with the engine off/key out), check voltage at the battery terminals (it should be pretty high, around 13V and dropping somewhat rapidly to 12.7), then let it sit overnight. Check voltage in the morning before hooking it back up. A healthy battery will be between 12.6 and 12.8 volts. A battery on its very last legs that can still (barely) be trusted for daily driving will be around 12.2 volts, but the starter will sound like it's struggling a bit by then. If the battery is draining on its own via an internal short, it'll probably be down significantly overnight. Or hell, a battery I replaced several years ago would show 13V immediately after shutoff, and be down to 8 volts within 5 minutes. After 30 minutes it was down to 3 volts. That fucker was d-e-a-d. If the voltage is still a good healthy 12.6+, that doesn't mean the battery is for sure good, but it does help rule it out. You still need to pull it and have it tested properly if you can't find any other issues.
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Jul 5, 2020 17:18
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IOwnCalculus posted:Depends on what you're working on. My coil-spring Jeeps have always had a ton of suspension droop, so if I'm not working on anything that requires the suspension to be unloaded, I lift at the center of the axle and support with jackstands near the ends. If I need to do suspension work, I'll lift a long loving way by the axle, then place the jackstands on the frame, as close to the axle as I can get. One set just in front of the rear axle, one set just behind the front axle. Brakes. The jeep I bought is a weird basket case that has the original manual brake master cylinder under tbe driver floor feeding into a remote brake booster on the firewall. And the remote brake booster is leaking like a sieve any time the brakes are worked so something needs to be changed out. I imagine I'd want maximum suspension droop since I might need to change out brakelines, right?
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Jul 5, 2020 18:06
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Okay a picture of the "second" master cylinder will help a lot, along with a picture of any pedal linkages. Do you know what conversion kit was used, or if it was a homemade setup? But no, you don't need any suspension droop for this, so long as the existing flexible brake lines are known to handle the full suspension travel. If you're replacing them with a different length, then yeah, being able to see if they handle full droop is a good idea. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:28 on Jul 5, 2020 |
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Jul 5, 2020 18:24
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ishikabibble posted:Brakes. The jeep I bought is a weird basket case that has the original manual brake master cylinder under tbe driver floor feeding into a remote brake booster on the firewall. And the remote brake booster is leaking like a sieve any time the brakes are worked so something needs to be changed out. Lifting / supporting by the axles should be fine for that. All of the rubber lines on my TJ were easy to access, I can't imagine that being harder on an older Jeep. Working on actual load-supporting suspension components like control arms and bushings are about the only reason I'd support the frame on mine instead of the axles.
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Jul 5, 2020 18:37
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melon cat posted:You mean something like these guys, or the ones with a single "double-ended" lock like these ones? I hope it's the second, because the 1st one is hard as hell to find locally. Apologies for my lack of clarity, I meant the ones with ridges on both sides of the ziptie. The first ones look perfect for this application since the lock will be flush with the rod, and as I didn't even know those existed I'm gonna go buy some! However the second variety will also work just fine, I've been using those not only on my tie rods, but a CV boot as well, and they've been there for years at this point (though I really ought to replace the CV boot with a proper metal clamp...) Thanks! I should look at other ziptie varieties now too, hmmm... Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 20:53 on Jul 5, 2020 |
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Jul 5, 2020 20:49
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Looking at swapping my rotors and pads... do EBC kits come with come with 2 rotors/4 pads or 1 rotor/2pads? Don't wanna just trust the image and, so far, every site I've seen manages to avoid addressing this simple question! The language suggests it's a full kit "rotors" - https://ebcbrakes.com/product/s4-kits-redstuff-and-usr-rotors/
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Jul 6, 2020 02:04
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Some loving assholes set off fireworks all night. I spent hours with my doggo in the upstairs bedroom to keep her calm and comfortable. I finally went outside around noon. There's debris from fireworks on my lawn. On my sidewalk. On my driveway. On my car roof. Next to my car. There's a golfball size dent in my side panel now. The hood took a couple of hits that brought it down to bare metal. I'm real loving annoyed, but figure I can channel this positively rather than throwing bricks through windows. In short, how do I fix this? I care less about the dent, but living in Michigan, I can't let the car rust over. What's the process for fixing small dings down to bare metal? I figure primer and a spray of some sort but before I go off and do something stupid I'd check with the adults. My wife's car was in the line of fire too, but she's off and about town so I don't know the damage there.
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Jul 6, 2020 02:25
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Cannon_Fodder posted:What's the process for fixing small dings down to bare metal? How big are we talking? What degree/quality of a fix are you looking for?
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Jul 6, 2020 02:39
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midge posted:How big are we talking? What degree/quality of a fix are you looking for? The 2 bare metal spots are small, about half the size of a dime. I want to stop it from becoming a problem and not look like poo poo. I'm not expecting professional. I'll also check with my insurance to see if this is covered at all.
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Jul 6, 2020 02:41
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STR posted:Okay a picture of the "second" master cylinder will help a lot, along with a picture of any pedal linkages. Do you know what conversion kit was used, or if it was a homemade setup? It's not like any power brake booster I can find photos of so I assume it's some kind of conversion kit, but not something specifically meant for this vehicle.  Basically, the original manual brake master cylinder is located under the driver footwell and mounted under the frame, connected basically straight to the pedal. There's a line going up from the master cylinder to this, which then goes off and feeds the brakes. There's a vacuum line connecting it to the engine (Ford 289) at the rear of the engine, where I've seen some diagrams say is where the vacuum comes from for power brakes on mustangs/etc? The mesh bit in the front is where it leaks under braking. quote:But no, you don't need any suspension droop for this, so long as the existing flexible brake lines are known to handle the full suspension travel. If you're replacing them with a different length, then yeah, being able to see if they handle full droop is a good idea. That's what I'm concerned with yeah. I don't know if I'll need to replace the brake lines because I have no idea if I'm keeping this weird remote master cylinder setup, but I don't want to have to reposition the stands if I do need to replace them 
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Jul 6, 2020 02:44
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Cannon_Fodder posted:In short, how do I fix this? Through your insurance company. Seriously.
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Jul 6, 2020 02:51
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ishikabibble posted:It's not like any power brake booster I can find photos of so I assume it's some kind of conversion kit, but not something specifically meant for this vehicle. I've dealth with those before when i used to do some work for a dude that restored GPWs and poo poo. https://www.kaiserwillys.com/brake-booster-kit-with-vacuum-tank-fits-41-66-jeep-willys Buy one of these and replace the lot of that old style aftermarket kit. Or whichever one of that style fits yours. You're not gonna find parts for that one. And if you do, the next part you can't find will break the next time you drive it.
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Jul 6, 2020 02:56
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Cannon_Fodder posted:The 2 bare metal spots are small, about half the size of a dime. It's covered as a comprehensive/vandalism claim. They may want you to file a police report. If you haven't cleaned it all up, take photos of the debris, along with your cars. Get a quote from a paintless dent removal company if your insurer does not. You do need paint, but that may be an easier thing to deal with than the dents.
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Jul 6, 2020 03:15
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nm I misread that
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Jul 6, 2020 04:32
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ok i need to go to bed...
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Jul 6, 2020 06:24
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Is there a travel trailer thread anywhere on the forums? I haven't been able to locate one.
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Jul 6, 2020 07:11
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Motronic posted:I've dealth with those before when i used to do some work for a dude that restored GPWs and poo poo. That's actually what I was looking at. For sure tossing what's on there currently. Do you know how reliable/how well that works?
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Jul 6, 2020 07:29
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ishikabibble posted:That's actually what I was looking at. For sure tossing what's on there currently. Do you know how reliable/how well that works? Long term? No. But it's what the crazy expensive restoration guy used begrudgingly if any only if it was an old dude who literally wouldn't be able to safely drive it otherwise. All of his work was top notch, so I don't think he would have cheaped out there, even for something that "ruined" the authenticity. The one I drove with one of these in them really worked well. It almost felt like you could stop the thing.
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Jul 6, 2020 14:48
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The Oldest Man posted:Is there a travel trailer thread anywhere on the forums? I haven't been able to locate one. edit: Found the one I was thinking about and it has in fact aged out (https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3635328) but there is a new one over in the outdoors forum (https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3895768) wolrah fucked around with this message at 15:41 on Jul 6, 2020 |
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Jul 6, 2020 15:30
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Got a small walk behind skid steer. The hydraulic cooling fan doesn't seem to be working. Wired directly to power, the fan works but when wired to the thermo-switch it won't. So, obviously it sounds like the switch is the problem. I removed it and checked continuity across the terminals, none because it wasn't hot. I took a cigarette lighter to the switch end and when it heated up for a few seconds, I could hear and feel the switch click shut and the beep from my meter denoting I had continuity. The switch has a small number and letter painted on it, that upon inspection likely say 140*F. Probably the temperature at which the switch closes. The end of the switch itself doesn't directly touch the oil. THere is an adapter from the port on the oil cooler, which then has a smaller adapter that the switch threads in to. The second adapter is brass and it doesn't have a hole in the end of it, for the sensor's probe to actually contact the oil. So, it has to conduct heat through the brass to the sensor probe. Any suggestions? Are these types of switches sensitive to which side the voltage comes in from for example?
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Jul 6, 2020 18:21
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kastein posted:It sounds like you over extended it and pulled the tripod out of the socket. They can be un-dislocated if you are careful and patient. Also it sounds like you're working on a Subaru based on that and the roll pin. I've done that to Subaru ones before, rather annoying. So I thought I was good to go. Then I tried taking it for a test drive and I'm getting a very loud whirring from up front and barely any power, so it sure sounds like I hosed one of the front axles and all the power on that open differential is going to the side that's not doing anything. What's involved in un-dislocating it? Have to choose between doing that and just buying a whole new axle and nut. E: Also it's clunking like crazy whenever I turn the wheel, that's another big hint. 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 19:22 on Jul 6, 2020 |
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Jul 6, 2020 19:18
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Ygolonac posted:hosed if I know what's going on, but I trickle charged overnight, reinstalled, and it's been driving fine (well, the battery anyway) since. I've also been disconnecting the negative cable whenever I park, until I can get hold of a meter that does amps so I can try and suss out the drain. Took me a while to spot, but the battery discharge seems to be related to my brake lights not turning off, ever.  Will go chasing the switch for that sometime this week, as I'm in the middle of clearing out a storage unit and need to have that done before the next payment date.Spotted the lights (with some difficulty, it being a bright sunny day) when making a store run, and not disconnecting the battery because I was going to be in for only ten minutes. Go to load up, and "WTF is my high-center light on for?" Shade the left taillight, same. Do the same on the right, and it's daid. If I can get *that* settled, then I can stop disconnecting the battery all the time and get some fukken OBD codes.
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Jul 6, 2020 20:12
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Ygolonac posted:Took me a while to spot, but the battery discharge seems to be related to my brake lights not turning off, ever. Switch is right at the steering column. You have to pull a piece of tupperware off to get easy access. Either it's out of adjustment, or broken (obviously)
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Jul 6, 2020 22:27
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PainterofCrap posted:Switch is right at the steering column. You have to pull a piece of tupperware off to get easy access. Either it's out of adjustment, or broken (obviously) Naw, it was out in the open. Hanging from the wiring harness. quote:2003 Dodge Grand Caravan Sport owners take note: if your brake light switch is *not* mounted, and simply hanging from the wiring harness, this may reduce battery and bulb life. (This may be applicable to different years/trim packages/models/makes; more testing needs to be done. Please donate generously.) I did have to get down seated on the ground to spot the fucker, and see where it was supposed to be. It's a twist-to-lock thing, so ??? how it came out - possible it was loose/not fully locked in the first place, and the vibrations from loping/misfiring finished shaking it loose.  In any event, that's sorted. Now I can start chasing down the important poo poo. Again. 
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Jul 6, 2020 22:52
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