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22 Eargesplitten posted:Have to choose between doing that and just buying a whole new axle and nut. TL;DR you should probably go ahead and replace that axle. 22 Eargesplitten posted:What's involved in un-dislocating it? A lot of fiddling. It's hard (for me) to explain without having one in front of us both. So basically, you've got the outboard on one side, basically a cup with some grooves in it, which generally goes into the tranny/hub; and the inboard, which is what's got all the rolling bearings and poo poo that makes the axle work. There's some variance in design of course, but basically what's happened is that the cup has spilled all its guts into the boot. If you're lucky nothing has come completely out of place and you should be able to finagle the whole shebang back into the cup without removing the boot. However, if you're not having any luck, it's easy to cut the boot clamps and slide the boot back so you can see what you're doing. If you've got any of the "knack" at all I'm certain you'll be able to figure out what goes where. You can use some beefy zipties as a temporary boot clamp but with how fast those things go spinnamathingin' you probably want to buy a boot kit that has new grease and strap clamps in it. Oh yeah, if you do pull the boot back to look at poo poo you may as well put new grease in it. And if the joint is already separated, put the new boot on it too. Worst case scenario you have to buy a new axle, and if you spun it up with any appreciable power I would be very surprised if you didn't shred the existing boot to ribbons and gently caress up the innards of the separated joint. Edit: Subaru axles are apparently built like the ones on my Honda CR-V, as shown in this video. That tells you everything you need to know about getting it back together. Edit2: also that's a real nifty trick dude used to tighten the clamps without the special tool at 6:35  I'm gonna have to remember that one.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AswqbxHJXSE Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Jul 7, 2020 |
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Jul 6, 2020 23:46
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Back to the 2007 Corolla. Any tips for removing a seized, rusty as poo poo bolt from my bushing clamp in this cramped space so I can replace my sway bar bushing? This space is so small and doesn't have enough clearance for any of my tools to fit. I've tried a box end ratchet- no dice as it doesn't grip onto the rusted/rounded bolt. Regular ratchet doesn't have enough clearance due to the cramped space and brake lines. Flex head ratchet doesn't even come close to fitting, either. I even tried needle nose pliers but that rust won't budge. Bathed it in PB blaster for days, too. I tried swearing at it for over an hour but that doesn't seem to be helping. Hoping to avoid having to drop the subframe as I don't have much space beneath my vehicle to begin with. Beach Bum posted:Apologies for my lack of clarity, I meant the ones with ridges on both sides of the ziptie. Ever heard of Griplock Ties? 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Jul 7, 2020 |
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Jul 7, 2020 00:01
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melon cat posted:Ever heard of Griplock Ties? Oh, gently caress  
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 00:04 on Jul 7, 2020 |
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Jul 7, 2020 00:02
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melon cat posted:Back to the 2007 Corolla. Any tips for removing a seized, rusty as poo poo bolt from my bushing clamp in this cramped space so I can replace my sway bar bushing? This space is so small and doesn't have enough clearance for any of my tools to fit. Can you get a nut splitter on there?
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Jul 7, 2020 00:14
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Is that captive?
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Jul 7, 2020 00:27
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C-Bangin' it 
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spankmeister posted:Can you get a nut splitter on there? Colostomy Bag posted:Is that captive? melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Jul 7, 2020 |
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Jul 7, 2020 00:40
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Any tips to shopping tires with a staggered fitment. I'm thinking of maybe chains that'll have a mileage warranty that don't halve for staggered fitments?
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Jul 7, 2020 01:30
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I have a tire question. I didn’t see a tire specific thread so I apologize if I missed it. I have stock 18” wheels and fair all-season tires (hankook kinergy GT) on my car, and after some consideration I’ve decided to plunk down for some cheap wheels and some winter tires and just do the seasonal swap when needed. Naturally I’ve got questions. It’s been suggested that I *must* use OEM wheels for any set of tires. Does it actually matter? I have a 2018 Camry if that makes a difference. I would imagine it does not as long as I don’t go too cheap. I’ve heard of something called “minus sizing” for winter tires. As I understand it this means buying wheels and tires at least one size down to narrow the tire. This will provide more traction because it means a narrower area pushing through snow. Is this actually a thing? Should I do this thing? If so, how sized down should I get? I imagine no more than one size. Are the wheel and tire packages from tire rack a good purchase? I’m asking for reliability and for price. I’m sure I could always go to some sketchy tire shop on the interesting side of town and pay less, but I’d rather not.
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Jul 7, 2020 01:51
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Beach Bum posted:TL;DR you should probably go ahead and replace that axle. Looks like I can get a new axle and nut for $90 from AutoZone with a 20% off coupon they've got going, what's another $90 and several hours of work in a month where I'm moving and it hits 85 degrees by 11AM? 
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Jul 7, 2020 02:24
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TheBoyBlunder posted:I have a tire question. I didn’t see a tire specific thread so I apologize if I missed it. Here! https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3887596 No, get whatever wheels you want as long as they fit and you like how they look. If they're for winter, see if you can get steelies. Or, check out a pick and pull and get a used (beat up) set from a wrecked car. I've done that the last two times as I found it a huge pain trying to find a replace for a cheap wheel and getting a used OEM is easier. Going down a size means in diameter, not width. If you can fit an 1" smaller wheel over the brakes and suspension, you may be able to save money on the wheels and definitely save money on the tires. No harm getting something narrower, I don't know how much that really matters in most situations. Yeah, Tire Rack is great. Especially if you are getting wheels and tires together as they will ship them mounted and balanced. Otherwise, you would have to find a shop to do that for you. Discount Tire is also good and competitive in price, especially if you need service.
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Jul 7, 2020 02:45
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melon cat posted:Not likely. The clamp design doesn't leave much space where the bolt head meets the "hump" on the clamp. And nut splitter heads look pretty thick/fat. But can you even use a nut splitter on a bolt head? I'm sorry I didn't look properly and thought it was a nut. Hmm in this case I'd probably zip off the entire bracket so you can remove the rubber and move the arm out of the way to give more access from the right side. Then you might get locking pliers on there or something. Have a new bracket ready to install of course.
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Jul 7, 2020 08:12
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Weird scrapyard question: I want to see how much force is necessary to break a car side window with a trekking pole. Would a major urban pick-n-pull be game for such an experiment, or would they just tell me to gently caress off? Do you think I could get a discount off their usual $40/window rate since I don't care what car it's from? I want to break 2-3 windows. I figure maybe I can get a deal if it's from a car headed to the crusher. I've never been to a scrapyard and don't know if they'd be keen to indulge something like this. Thoughts?
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Jul 7, 2020 12:38
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No pick n pull wants you leaving glass on the ground and inside a car they're trying to sell parts off of.
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Jul 7, 2020 15:23
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The ones here don't give a single poo poo. Half the time they stab the forklift through the windows or windshield to pick the car up, and they regularly smash the roof down to turn a car into a basket for all the trash they rake up off the ground. The soil in my favorite yard is like 90% safety glass cubes, 5% gear oil and 5% rust plastic chunks and paint. Honestly you might just ask them which car is next into the crusher and if you can bust the windows first, they might charge you, they might not. Pick the dirtiest junkyard you can find, they'll care less. E: here's a blooper video of a news reporter doing exactly this with the owner right there, windows are harder to break than you think. Most of the local troublemakers use a broken spark plug ceramic because the glass basically crumbles when you touch it, I have no idea what a hiking pole will do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aiSTAcYl0_w kastein fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Jul 7, 2020 |
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Jul 7, 2020 16:40
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Hiking poles have carbide tips. Should work like spark plug ceramic, but I need to test it. (not planning to rob or vandalize cars, but I don't know where else to find tempered auto glass)
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Jul 7, 2020 21:40
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Update: Measured 12.67 when I disconnected negative. After about 24 hours it measured 12.44 and another 24 hours after that measures 12.42. Bad battery? STR posted:You rang?
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Jul 8, 2020 01:06
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kastein posted:The ones here don't give a single poo poo. Half the time they stab the forklift through the windows or windshield to pick the car up, and they regularly smash the roof down to turn a car into a basket for all the trash they rake up off the ground. The soil in my favorite yard is like 90% safety glass cubes, 5% gear oil and 5% rust plastic chunks and paint. Honestly you might just ask them which car is next into the crusher and if you can bust the windows first, they might charge you, they might not. Pick the dirtiest junkyard you can find, they'll care less. God this triggers me so bad. Wimp can't even swing a hammer. Also a ball peen probably would have been the better choice but I guess you'd have to do some actual investigative work to find that out.
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Jul 8, 2020 07:32
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Having knocked windows out of Jeeps before cutting them up, the spot you hit matters more than the kind of hammer. Hit the ground edge of the glass not the middle. It'll bounce off the middle, but if you hit the edge it'll usually shatter fast. Front windows are just a pain, they are regular glass with the tough plastic layer in between and shatter into tiny razor sharp flakes and daggers like you're used to. I usually just sawzall across the A pillars and windshield and avoid breathing glass dust, easier to clean up that way.
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Jul 8, 2020 08:54
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Pretty much all you have to do is this: https://tenor.com/bdJCW.gif
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Jul 8, 2020 11:38
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vulturesrow posted:Measured 12.67 when I disconnected negative. After about 24 hours it measured 12.44 and another 24 hours after that measures 12.42. It's not brand new, but it's not bad, though having a parts store test it (inside the store) on a proper tester will determine if it's bad or not.
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Jul 8, 2020 16:32
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Motronic posted:Bring it to a parts store. They can check both the battery and charging system. Chances are good you need both a battery and an alternator because those two things have a suicide pact. You may have caught it soon enough to only need one of those, and I'm hoping it's a battery. Thanks for this. Unfortunately my battery was only installed 5000 miles ago, but my old alternator went for the murder-suicide maneuver. The battery is safe but the alternator had to be replaced.
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Jul 9, 2020 14:56
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my neighbor is selling his 2005 Chevy Trailblazer with 240k miles but only 50k miles on a rebuilt engine/tranny. I'd like to have something I can tow poo poo with and he wants it gone so he'll take $1000 for it. How much work can I, myself, do on this car?
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Jul 9, 2020 17:55
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I'd be more concerned with why the engine needed a rebuild at 190k (transmission is understandable at that mileage), and I'd want to make sure they were actually rebuilt, not just replaced with junkyard parts. (it's almost certainly the latter unless he can provide receipts... that's about $5k of work 50k miles ago on a vehicle that was worth maybe $3k if he really did have them rebuilt) But $1000 for a running and driving vehicle that can be titled and registered is pretty solid, so long as it's not knocking or smoking and doesn't have any codes stored in the computer (no check engine light after several trips, for example, if you don't have a code reader). The towing capacity on those wasn't fantastic when new (about 5k lbs), given the age and mileage I'm not sure I'd trust the brakes and suspension to handle much more than a utility trailer. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Jul 9, 2020 |
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Jul 9, 2020 18:01
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yeah, that's what I was thinking too. He's an idiot who blows money on stupid poo poo and now he wants to buy a golf cart. I was thinking about a 2000 lb pop-up and/or a kayak trailer i really just want a truck I can drive maybe 12x per year to the beach to fish (100 miles round trip) and maybe 2-3x per year to hill country (500 miles round trip). So really something that's used maybe 3000 miles per year or so oxsnard fucked around with this message at 18:25 on Jul 9, 2020 |
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Jul 9, 2020 18:22
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If it's not rusted to death and it seems to run and drive fine, and it has the I6, buy it. If it has the V8, buy it even more. Do truck things with it 10 times at most and its paid for itself over rentals. They aren't awful to work on, but they're not great either. poo poo like the oil filter on the I6 is "fun" because the engine and chassis were literally designed for each other, but the oil filter is square over a crossmember, but they bothered to put a splash shield on it. There's a pointless bit of body structure over the battery.
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Jul 9, 2020 20:27
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My son drives a 2010 Dodge Charger SXT V6. It’s been a solid car for a couple years. I usually feel like when it comes to cars I know the right thing to do but in this case I’m not sure. Immediately after we bought it we realized that the fuel gauge did not work correctly. It would vary from 1/4 to full with no obvious correlation between the gauge and actual amount of fuel in the tank. When the gauge read low, the appropriate indicator would come on. Since he seldom left the city we live in this was not really a problem, he’s pretty good about keeping track of his mileage and has never run out of gas. Additionally, the TPMS light has started to intermittently come on, accompanied by the chime. When this began about six weeks ago he checked the pressure and filled the tires to about 36 lbs, verified with two different gauges. He does not remember what any of the actual pressures were when this problem first arose. From everything I’ve read this is probably an instrument cluster problem. Seems to be a common issue for this car. My mechanic whom I feel I can trust has said that the fuel sending unit is operating correctly and that I should contact the dealer re: the cluster. He does not have the equipment to diagnose the tpms. So I’ve contacted the dealer, they are telling me $750 for the cluster, installed. I can live with this if I have to. Problem is they claim it’s anywhere from three to four weeks without the car because the new cluster has to be programmed by the vendor. Is it worth my time to disassemble the dash myself and check all connections at the cluster? I’m tempted to just put an after market fuel gauge on it and ignore the tpms but the chime makes that difficult to do. Should I just bite the bullet and let the dealer diagnose all of this? ncumbered_by_idgits fucked around with this message at 16:11 on Jul 10, 2020 |
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Jul 10, 2020 16:08
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Hey, here comes a dumb electrical thing! I have a 1997 K1500 Silverado with the Vortec 5700. Long in the tooth in miles but zero rust and only minor scratches. I've been doing a lot of minor fixes (new headlamp and tail lamp housings, radio) and had a shop do the major stuff (new bushings, ball joints, tie rods). Overall it's been pretty good to me, though I've had a nasty electrical gremlin I've been chasing with the front turn signals. Now, I have replaced my headlamps with LEDs which hasn't been an issue, and during the daytime all my lights including turn signals work normally. However, I'd noticed one of the 4 middle bulbs for the turn signals wasn't getting power. A common problem is the sockets on these GM trucks get bad over time and, sure enough, it was extra crispy. So me, being the engineering completist I am, ordered 4 new sockets when a mechanic friend offered to solder them on. All 4 new sockets went on, though the color schemes were annoying (the harness has Black, Blue, and Brown while the "OEM" ACDelco sockets were black, white, and brown). All 4 were wired in 1:1 in the same orientation: Black-Black, Brown-Brown, and Blue-White. the Harness did not appear to be damaged in any way. But now, I have this situation which is best explained via picture (different GMT400 but same configuration):  The green are the side-lights which had always worked and needed no repairs, the Blue light had its socket replaced and blinks out of phase with the green lights as designed. The Three red ones, however, stay completely solid. Mind you, in daytime mode all six lights work correctly. Any potential causes? My mechanic friend thinks somehow having LED headlights is interfering with the flasher relay but I don't get fast blinking or other resistance issues. Could it be something shorting to ground, or replacement sockets being a bad batch?
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Jul 11, 2020 00:47
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You're still running incandescent bulbs for your front signals, right? If so, ground and the positive for the parking lights probably got mixed up somewhere (probably on 3 of them, but possibly all 4). Or you've lost ground somewhere in the harness. Your LED headlights don't have anything to do with it, but you really shouldn't use them in halogen headlamp housings for other reasons (blinding oncoming traffic, and most of them aren't as bright as the halogens). A far more legal way to get brighter lights on cars that use a 9006 low beam (like your truck) is to use a 9012 bulb. You have to slightly trim one tab, but they draw the same power (therefore no danger of burning up the wiring), use the same plug, and put out a lot more light. They also don't alter your beam pattern, so you're not blinding anyone. You can use a 9011 in your high beams as well, the same way (trim the top tab slightly). More info here, though they're no longer sold as "HIR" bulbs (bulb technology has advanced enough that they don't need the "infrared reflection" part to make the filament hotter anymore, they can do it with a change in the gas fill in the bulb) randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:29 on Jul 11, 2020 |
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Jul 11, 2020 14:24
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Anyone have a suggestion for a leather cleaner/conditioner?
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Jul 11, 2020 18:49
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Lexol has always been recommended to me and seems to work well.
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Jul 11, 2020 21:26
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Inner tie rod question (this damned 2007 Corolla LE). I put in some new inner-tie rods. But now I have to hammer in the tie-rod lock washer:  But the work area is so small that I can't even fit in my smallest hammer to hit the damned thing. I've tried coming at the washer from every direction- top, bottom, side. No room at all.  How the heck do you stake this inner tie rod lock washer? I obviously can't pull out the inner tie rod, "prehammer" it in, then re-screw it in. I swear they designed Corollas for little sweat shop hands. This video shows exactly what I'm supposed to do, but not exactly easy to do get to it like that since I don't own a big 4runner with plenty of undercarriage space. melon cat fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jul 12, 2020 |
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Jul 12, 2020 00:36
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Can you get a prybar in there and use the swaybar as a fulcrum?
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Jul 12, 2020 00:42
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Beach Bum posted:Can you get a prybar in there and use the swaybar as a fulcrum? melon cat fucked around with this message at 06:54 on Jan 10, 2024 |
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Jul 12, 2020 01:07
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STR posted:You're still running incandescent bulbs for your front signals, right? If so, ground and the positive for the parking lights probably got mixed up somewhere (probably on 3 of them, but possibly all 4). Or you've lost ground somewhere in the harness. I actually changed the lenses when I got the LEDs so they are not a road hazard, but I could switch them back as well. As for your suggestion, that's what I figured but it baffles me because the harness is undamaged. Oh well, looks like one of those nigh-impossible to fix gremlins.
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Jul 12, 2020 03:00
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Yeah I really doubt it's the harness unless it's pretty brittle, I'd start by checking each pin of the new sockets to make sure they're doing what they're supposed to do. "Working fine with the parking lights off, making GBS threads out when the lights are on" is pretty classic "swapped a power and ground somewhere", but can also be "lost a ground". With the lights off, the bulb is still able to ground through the other filament. With them on, you get a solid bulb or a weird flashing. With 3 of them doing it, I'm betting 3 of them got a couple of wires swapped. Losing a ground would only affect the ones on one side (and may affect your side markers too).
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Jul 12, 2020 14:05
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09 corolla, 2.4l 223,100 KM Got a funny sound coming from the front of my engine in the serpentine belt area. I figure its probably a bad bearing on one of the accessories. These engines are known to have lovely water pumps, but I had mine replaced at 168,000 km and hopefully it was an upgraded part. Got myself an engine stethoscope and going to poke and prod things to see if I can hear something I shouldn't be hearing. Anyone got any good tips for using one of these things? First time ever using one. Engine will be running, so obviously stay the hell away from the belt while its moving etc...
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Jul 12, 2020 17:01
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Blindeye posted:I actually changed the lenses when I got the LEDs so they are not a road hazard, but I could switch them back as well. Every proper LED headlight conversion I've ever seen is either a complete headlight replacement assembly or a LED projector retrofit module that requires taking apart and often modifying the existing headlight assembly to install. You can pretty much assume that if you see LED (or HID) headlights in a standard halogen size it's wrong. The only time where it's OK to just put a LED bulb in a normal reflector style headlight is if it's one that's only used for flash-to-pass, like how many vehicles that offer optional bixenons repurpose the position that would be the high beam on the halogen-lit model since HIDs don't like to be flashed. For that single use case, the disadvantages of mismatched optics don't really matter and the advantages of apparent brightness and instant-on are significant. Likewise on the HID side, there are a couple of compact retrofit projectors that have been designed specifically for H1-size HID bulbs because they're smaller than the standard D-series bulbs used in OEM HID applications but they're wrong in pretty much every other application. tl;dr: If you haven't installed retrofit projectors, stick to halogen bulbs.
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Jul 12, 2020 18:03
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To be fair, there IS such a thing as factory reflector HIDs. Acura used them, so did Lincoln and a couple of other makes. Subaru did in Japan (I have a set of the factory reflector HID headlamps on my car, from a JDM model, though slightly modified to kill that "tick" meant to light up the side of the road when driven in RHD land). But these are housings specifically designed for HID bulbs, and they take a different type of HID bulb. Lincoln went full stupid and used a DC system that nobody else used, and only used them for a few years (so you can't even get bulbs, ballasts... anything for them at this point), most other makes used a D2R bulb (similar to a D2S bulb, but slightly different to work better in a factory reflector HID application - there are replacement bulbs out there that work for both D2R and D2S applications, but it's better to go with the proper bulb). That's definitely NOT what's going on here though. Aftermarket "LED drop in" headlights LOOK brighter simply because of the color temp, but they do a poo poo job of lighting up the road. Jalopnik talked to Daniel Stern (considered one of the leading authorities in automobile lighting these days) about this exact thing the other day. Unless you can find a factory HID or LED option that swaps in easily, and either doesn't blind oncoming traffic or can be modified to kill the "RHD tick", or you're willing to modify the hell out of your factory headlamps (or a set of aftermarket housings) by molding projectors into them, it's best to stick to halogens. If you have 9005/9006 bulbs, 9011/9012 bulbs are a solid upgrade, but that's about where the upgrade path ends aside from expensive (and much shorter lived) high output bulbs like GE Nighthawks. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 18:19 on Jul 12, 2020 |
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Jul 12, 2020 18:15
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Crossposting from the Subaru thread in case this is an issue other people have seen. Question about an issue that popped up today on my 08 WRX. About an hour and a half into a drive today the check engine and traction control light came on, and the cruise control light started blinking. I pulled over to check it out but everything seems fine, engine is running the same, no smells, engine temp was normal. I also turned it off and started it back up and everything seemed normal, but the same 3 lights came on. Anyone experienced this before? Seems like a sensor issue since the car is running fine, but it seems like such a weird mix of lights to come on. Hoping for some insight before I take it somewhere to get checked and pay for any repairs.
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Jul 12, 2020 19:49
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Immolat1on posted:Crossposting from the Subaru thread in case this is an issue other people have seen. It's in limp mode due to a running or emissions issue. You should read the ODB2 codes to figure out what direction you need to go in diagnostically.
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Jul 12, 2020 19:58
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