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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


I was with a friend when he got his codes read at an Oil Stop for free a couple years ago (in California), is that a recent change?

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Looks like they're $200ish new on eBay, and $100ish used from various junkyards near me on car-part.com. I'd avoid any pick-n-pull type junkyards; they punch the oil pan to drain it quicker. Plus, they wouldn't have anything that new in there anyway.

E: To actually answer your question, I don't know if the oil pan is the same across multiple vehicles. Depends on where crossmembers are, and that sort of thing. But, according to that eBay ad, it only "fits" Chargers and Magnums '06-'07.

Also, I don't know if the AWD ones use a different oil pan or anything.

Raluek fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Feb 11, 2015

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Leperflesh posted:

You want something like this, I think:


Just general purpose high-temperature grease. It should cost like four bucks.

Yeah just regular black moly grease. Comes in a tube that you slide in the gun. Not super special. Make sure you get a gun with a flexible neck dealy! Mine came with a fixed "extension" that made it impossible to get to most of the zerks.

Bonk posted:

I've got a '93 Honda Accord I'm trying to get rid of because I never drive it. Due to being parked and unused most of the time, it's started having battery issues. I've had to jump it a few times in the past few months but usually if I use it once a week it'll start up without much trouble.

Last week though, I tried starting it up and only got dash lights, no engine turning over or clicking or anything. I tried to jump it with another car, but after I hooked it up, it stopped doing anything at all - no dash lights, nothing. It won't take a jump anymore. I know I hooked up the cables in the right order because I've done it dozens of times, it's just suddenly not taking a charge anymore. I don't want to put more money into it (especially if I don't know if it's just the battery) but I'd also like to not take a low-ball offer because I've spent a lot on repairs. What could make it just die like that, and does it sound like it's just the battery or might it be a short? The only thing I can think of is that it's been rainy and something got wet. Removing the battery and getting it tested is also an option, but if there's an easier way I'm open to suggestions.

Check the battery with a multimeter to verify that it's dead. Going that bad that fast surprises me, but it's not impossible. If the battery shows some voltage but you don't get dash lights, I'd suspect a dirty connection in the battery cables. Can't hurt to clean that stuff up. But of course, if the battery shows 5V or something ridiculous like that, then yeah it could be just the battery.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Smeed posted:

I have a 2001 Dodge stratus V6 (2.7 liter I believe) and today I noticed that the heat is blowing cold air. Two days ago I had to refill the coolant as it was very low (check engine came on and coolant began to boil after 20 minutes), but I don't think there is a leak as I've been keeping an eye on coolant levels since and it's been steady. I haven't used the heat much since coolant was low but it worked fine before. I'm going to assume these two issues are related somehow. Does this sound like an air bubble? If so, do I just run it until it passes and for how long?

It's worrying that coolant was that low, but isn't leaking anywhere. It's going somewhere, so hopefully not past the headgasket into the combustion chamber. Blowing much steam out the tailpipe? Regardless, do you have enough coolant in there now? If it's all gone somewhere, the heater won't work, for sure.

If you've still got enough, then yeah it could be just an air bubble. I'm not sure where the highest point in the cooling system is on those, but generally if you have the nose up in the air so the radiator is at the top, and run it (from cold) with the radiator cap off and the heat on, the bubble will work its way out. But often, specific cars will have their own special procedure because of some design peculiarity.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Michael Scott posted:

I've got a 2004 Camry LE. I've got a transmission question. It has what I think is a 4-speed automatic that is known for being reliable, but I've got an issue. If I get on the highway within 15-20 minutes of starting the engine, it has trouble upshifting enough.

This is not a cold start followed by getting on the freeway immediately. Even if I drive around for a while until the temp needle moves to almost halfway, this still happens. I'll get on the highway, merge at 50-60MPH, but the RPMs will be stuck at 4, 5 or even approaching 6k. I'm on the highway in medium traffic usually so it's not like I can slow to a crawl or speed up to 80MPH to encourage my transmission to shift. So I will be forced to let the engine race, usually for a few minutes or a few miles, at which point it will suddenly upshift and return to normal at ~2-2.5k at 60MPH. By the way I use cruise control often, but this happens whether or not I use cruise. I'll turn off cruise and try every position of the accelerator pedal to encourage it to shift, but nothing will work until it just decides to after some time on the highway. I'm worried I'm doing some damage or at least wasting gas by letting the engine race.

I know the previous owner took care of the car. It is very low mileage. I just rolled it over to 30k miles. I don't believe the AT Fluid has been changed in its 11-year life, which wasn't concerning because of the low miles, but could old fluid be causing this issue?

Though it previously had a low mileage life, I now drive it at a normal interval, a hundred miles a week maybe.

I don't know anything about these cars, but is it possible that it's an electronic auto that isn't getting the correct tps reading? Like, it thinks you're at WOT all the time so it tries to hold the gear as long as possible? My first thought was vacuum modulator, but I'd hope they aren't still using those on a car that new.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Chuu posted:

To be fair, I didn't specify, but yeah we're talking about the Mercedes Benz E350 Sedan.

Haha yeah my first thought was "what the hell dude, it's a work van. come on."

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


SeaWolf posted:

Yay me. Nice to have a car that has no cabin problems though.

If it's anything like Bajaja's Veloster, you won't be waiting long.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


some texas redneck posted:

Not to mention damned cheap for what you get. Most Walmart Supercenters carry a good selection of Purolator filters.

I'd be running a Purolator in my car now instead of the Fram it currently has if the WalMart I usually get my oil change stuff at had a Purolator in stock (it's a cartridge filter, so I can easily verify that there's no cardboard endcaps on this particular Fram).


That's the textbook definition of something failing in the clutch hydraulics; my 95 Civic was doing the exact same thing, though it wound up being the slave cylinder in my case. Bleeding would fix it for a day or so, then the problem would return.

The slave is a lot easier to replace; I'd probably try that first simply because it's easier and cheaper to throw a slave on it compared to the master. The creaking is probably just the pedal assembly needing a bit of grease (the clutch does the same on my car when it's really cold, sometimes squeaks a bit too).

When that happened to me, I rebuilt all of the hydraulics and it didn't solve the problem. I suspect the pivot for the clutch fork is hosed.

Geirskogul posted:

Real cars have a cable clutch

So the same thing can happen to you when the fulcrum sector thing gets all oblong on its shaft, or a cable starts wearing through somewhere?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


With regards to the insurance, I think it's best if she establishes her own policy at her new address before driving down. It's not really a problem to have two policies overlapping, and she can get insurance without proof she owns the vehicle. In fact, I'd expect the DMV would need proof of insurance before they'll let her transfer the title. I'm in California, and with AAA, so I do title transfers at the AAA DMV window, so I'm not sure how it works at an actual DMV and in another state. But once you have signed your release of liability, I'd expect that it should be on her to insure it from then on.

But hey, if anyone wants to contradict me here, I'm not 100% sure I'm right.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Black88GTA posted:

So I'm having a bit of an issue with my old Prelude.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DRejqixiln4
When cold, the engine will fire up and run fine, until the key is released. When you let the key go, the motor dies. This usually happens 3 - 10 times each morning. It's not as bad in the video because I had the car running a couple hours before the vid was taken. Once it's running, it's fine and has no issues. I think I've ruled out idle components (IAC, etc) because holding the gas pedal down a little bit has no effect on whether or not it stays running. Once running, it runs great - not down on power or anything. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor are all a few years old, but don't have all that many miles on them. I've been DDing this car for the past few months - this just started happening this week.

Car specs: 1989 Honda Prelude 2.0Si, 2.0L DOHC B20A5, automatic, about 133k miles.

Anyone have any ideas?

Probably the ignition switch. Do those still have a coil resistor? Could be that too, but I'd expect that to fail all at once, instead of intermittently.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


zundfolge posted:

Yeah, but the bare terminal (the right-angle one with the stud on it), no cables. I'm trying to build (or have built) a custom positive cable for my Volvo and no one seems to sell anything like it.

e: the only reason I'm after something so specific is that the packaging around the battery in my car is so tight that nothing else will fit.

Perhaps get one of those marine terminals Kastein likes, then bend the eyelet on the crimp 90 degrees? Or is that still too long? Assuming you don't want a secondhand junkyard part like iv46vi mentioned.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Old motor is probably a 400. I've never seen the back of one, but they're externally balanced. Keep in mind, though, that stroker kits are almost always externally balanced too. So, good chance they'll both be "weird." The only thing I'd worry about is the one-piece rear main seal that everything '86+ is. I think they use different flywheels?

Edit: Actually, I'm stupid. Internally/externally balanced only affects the front of the motor, i.e. what damper you need to use. Looks like that counterweight flange thing was changed when they went to 1-piece rear main seal, so I should have recognized it because I've had three 2-piece SBCs now. Doyy.

http://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...ece-vs-two.html This thread straightened me out.

Raluek fucked around with this message at 05:41 on Mar 12, 2015

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Deceptor101 posted:

The old motor is a targetmaster 350, basically a cheap GM crate motor, made in 1980 I believe. For the one-piece vs two piece rear main seals, how does that affect the flywheels? The engine i've got is on a bellhousing stand, so I can't test fit the flywheel. If I need a different flywheel, will a SM420 clutch kit bolt up to say, an LT1 flywheel?

According to that thread I edited into my other post, the flywheels are not compatible between 1-piece and 2-piece RMS motors. Whether the clutch stuff from the SM420 will bolt up I'm not sure, additional googling will be required.

E: According to this Pirate thread, the SM420 clutch should work with a TBI 1-piece RMS flywheel; not sure how it differs from the LT1 flywheel. If you already have the LT1 flywheel, I guess it would be pretty simple to measure it out?

Raluek fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Mar 12, 2015

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Deceptor101 posted:

I don't have an LT1 flywheel handy, the one that came off the 383 went into our lemons car with the T56. I guess if I'm buying a flywheel and clutch kit, I'd like to only buy one. I'll see if I can test fit the SM420 flywheel tomorrow, although it seems pretty clear that won't fly. I'll see if I can find a parts store with a TBI flywheel in stock and see if the clutch will bolt up to it.

The downside to using a TBI flywheel is that you'd have to swap out the starter with it, due to different tooth counts. If you can get a good look at the SM420 flywheel maybe you can find a picture or schematic of the TBI flywheel or something. I dunno. Unless you're friends with someone at a parts store who can let you take careful measurements of inventory, that would be pretty cool.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


This might be a stupid question, but how much gas do you have in the tank? I had similar symptoms when I was running an external fuel pump and let the level get too low.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


JosefStalinator posted:

Agreed. If there are any other Denton or DFW goons around, I'd love for a recommendation for a good mechanic. The one's I've been to around here are poo poo.

Just wait for STR to come back; he lives or lived in that area and I'm sure he's got some recommendations.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Slavvy posted:

What exactly do you mean? What stud?

I think he's asking if centering the sleeve over the two tie rod ends is critical. It's not, but you should do what you can to get them fairly close. When I did mine I just spun both sides into the sleeve a certain number of turns, then installed it, and adjusted its length once it was on the car. Then take it to get aligned!

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


leica posted:

What's a good adhesive for fusing plastic and vinyl together? I have to glue a plastic speaker grill to the vinyl door panel. I tried using Loctite Fabric glue which specifically said bonds plastic and vinyl but it lasted about a month. I was thinking maybe an epoxy?

For what it's worth:

http://thistothat.com/cgi-bin/glue....yl&that=Plastic

This to That posted:

Vinyl to Plastic

If your vinyl has a woven back:
For a flexible bond we recommend:
3M 80
If flexiblity isn't important use:
Hot Glue
If your vinyl is not backed we recommend:
Household Goop

There are so many kinds of plastic its hard to give advice here that applies to them all. If possible try a small test in an area that doesn't show.
Some plastics have a smooth surface finish that can be sanded off with a 120 grit sand paper, for better adhering properties.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


OSU_Matthew posted:

I see the 600$ truck thread has fallen into the archives, so maybe this is the next best place to ask this...

What's the best way to get the correct amount of current from the battery to the starter relay (bypassing the ignition switch)?

For reference, the car in question an '88 F150 (351, automatic). I've shotgunned parts into most of the starting system (new starter motor/solenoid, starter relay, ignition switch) and I still can't get it to start without manually bridging the starter relay (eg chucking a ratchet between the relay terminals till it cranks over).

The previous owner bypassed the ignition switch with a wire/spade shoved up in an empty fuse slot, hooked up to a button on the dash, which then goes through the firewall and to the starter relay. Normally, you just turn the key, which actuates the fuel pump, etc, and sends current to the fuse slot, which in turn sends juice to the relay when you hit the button, cranking the starter.

Lately this workaround has been intermittent at best, and I've had to manually bridge the relay to get the starter to crank. I've checked continuity on the wire and the switch, and that all looks good. I've also checked to make sure the spade is making good contact with the empty fuse slot, and that looks good as well. Oh, I've also checked the ignition actuator (rod that transfers movement from the lock cylinder to the switch, apparently prone to breakage) and there's no problems there. Basically, turning the key does most of the startup process, but won't crank the starter without a bypass or manual intervention in the starter relay.

Any thoughts or suggestions are much appreciated!

When you bridge the relay with a ratchet, are you bridging the switch contacts, or the load contacts? If the former, it's wiring or the PO-installed switch. You can probably unscrew the switch from the dash and pull it out enough to bridge the contacts on the back to test the wiring. If the latter, it's the relay or something downstream of the relay.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Slavvy posted:

Sounds like a crock of poo poo. Go check out the car, see what it actually does instead of relying on information given to you by someone trying to sell you something, then report back.

Basically, this. If it just needed to be adjusted, he would have done that already so he could sell it with no problems. I probably wouldn't buy it unless I could diagnose it on the spot and figure out what I needed to do to fix it, or was comfortable opening my wallet to have the transmission rebuilt or the clutch replaced or whatever. It could be something minor, but sellers always lie, or omit important information.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


I'm rebuilding an LM7 (truck 5.3 LS-style V8). Well, more like refreshing it a bit since I have it apart anyway. It's only got 80k on it, but I bought it from someone who rolled the vehicle and it ran for a bit upside down. The heads are off at the shop getting a valve job and new springs, I'm going to put a hotter cam in with new lifters and trays. Three of the cylinders have some surface rust in them, so I was going to hone the cylinders and put in some new rings. I figured I'd put in new bearings while it's apart, even though the rod bearings look just about perfect.

My conundrum is that I don't really want to do the main bearings. Is it a bad idea to skip them? I'd have to take apart a lot more of the engine, and the harmonic balancer / front pulley really really doesn't want to come off. So I'm considering leaving the main bearings alone, and just rotating the timing cover out of the way of the cam swap. Is this an acceptable shortcut, or is it stupid?

E: I'm reading on LS1tech that they use thread locker from the factory, and that heat will allow that bolt to come out. Still, even with it off I think my life would be significantly easier if I left the crank in. Maybe?

Raluek fucked around with this message at 01:00 on Mar 24, 2015

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Slavvy posted:

Having taken an LS2 apart recently I would advise you to just man up and find a way of undoing the gigantic crank bolt.

Yeah looks like the bolt has red loctite on the bottom of the bolt-head and on the threads, so heat is required. What's the deal with taking the rear main seal part of the engine apart? Looks like I'll have to get in there to get the crank out.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Slavvy posted:

IIRC it's possible to pry out the seal individually and get a replacement but the genuine 'proper' way of doing it is to buy the whole alloy surround thing with the seal already in. If yours isn't leaking, just unbolt the little cover by itself and make sure to lube the crank before slipping it back on later, otherwise you can kink the lip of the seal.

Alright, I'll just leave it alone, then. If it was straightforward to replace the seal by itself I'd think it would be stupid to not do it while the engine is out, but if it's a pain then I'll skip it.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Slavvy posted:

IIRC it's possible to pry out the seal individually and get a replacement but the genuine 'proper' way of doing it is to buy the whole alloy surround thing with the seal already in. If yours isn't leaking, just unbolt the little cover by itself and make sure to lube the crank before slipping it back on later, otherwise you can kink the lip of the seal.

Re-visiting this, it looks like there is a special ($$$) tool to align the rear cover to the block and oil pan rails. Knowing my luck, I'd gently caress it up somehow, not having the correct tools. Leaving the main bearings alone is looking more and more enticing...

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Slavvy posted:

They're probably alright.

They are if they're anything like the rod bearings.

Oh well, what's the worst that could happen, right?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


tadashi posted:

I guess what I really need to do is try to run it while I'm driving somewhat fast. It was kind of dumb not to do that before asking. If it does work and doesn't overheat while moving, is there something I can check or is it something that needs to go to a mechanic?

If it is the fans, it might just be a fuse or a relay or something easy like that. You'd need to do further troubleshooting to figure out if it was within your scope.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


blk posted:

I've been having problems reading the oil level on the Saabaru dipstick lately. No matter how many times I wipe and redip it comes way up the sides and is much lower in the bottom. At which level should I read it?



I was taught to read the level where the oil goes all the way across the dipstick, so at the bottom of that parabola there. I'd be interested in hearing if that's not the right thing to do.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Sentient Data posted:

How accurate should a fuel gauge be? I've usually been filling up my car at about the 1/4 mark or higher to make sure the fuel pump doesn't struggle/run hot, and re-reading the service manual gave me a bit of pause. The tank usually only takes about 7~8 gallons to fill at the 1/4 level or slightly below (and I know for a fact that it's full at that point since the auto-shutoff didn't trigger once and I got a quick little fuel waterfall), but according to the specs the tank is rated at 14 gallons. Should I assume that the fuel pump is taking 3~4 gallons of space inside the tank? Seems a bit high to me, but I've never seen one out of the tank. 88 Chrysler Lebaron 2.2 turbo, fuel injected (~55psi if that affects pump size)

Usually there's a few gallons of reserve past "empty" to get you to fill up before it's too late. My cars have always been way non-linear and inaccurate, but the Shadow seemed pretty accurate to me. But I don't remember how far past "empty" it could be pushed, although I did run it dry a couple times.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Geoj posted:

In my experience fuel gauges are only accurate at full, half and (nearing) empty.

Mine's not even that. "Full" reads about 1/8" above F, "half" is around 2/3, and "empty" is when it's been on "E" for about 3 days.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Sentient Data posted:

Yeah, I've noticed that with both the Lebaron and a 2nd gen Prius that the gas curves are pretty parabolic (it doesn't even dip below full for a long time, then it moves a bit quicker the lower it gets), I'm just surprised to hear that it might be a few gallons below empty rather than just maybe 1ish. Granted who knows how crappy it is in there due to PO negligence, but a fuel filter change a few hundred miles after I got it, then few thousand more miles on high octane 0 ethanol and lucas cleaner probably washed out anything non-solid at least

When my mom bought her Honda Odyssey I remember reading in the manual that there was (by design) 3 gallons "reserve" past empty. I'd imagine all manufacturers do something similar, but surely the amount varies. But I don't know that "a few" gallons would be out of the ordinary.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


I've been happy with my Harbor Freight one. I don't know how their quality varies from piece to piece, but the one I ended up with seals fine. You just have to really crank on the big drain cap, and the guys at autozone usually put it back on cross-threaded, so make sure it's on straight before you haul off on it.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


www.amazon.com posted:

I have a yard I know of. I could probably eventually figure this out with enough searching but do all camry use the same alternator. I have the v6 and I would guess the majority are all I4 engines. Basically like could I pull an alternator off of any camry or do I have to find a wrecked v6

I just looked on Rockauto; it looks like the 4cyl and 6cyl alternators are different part numbers. The 4cyl has a 90A, while the 6cyl has an 80A. Looks like they have different pulleys, and the case is clocked differently. So, if you can't find one from a V6, maybe get an I4 alternator, rent a pulley puller tool, and swap your old pulley on and rotate the case to match.

Also, if your local yard is on row52.com, you can check current inventory. Might save you a trip, if you know they don't have the right car.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


some texas redneck posted:

I'd say it's about a 70/30 mix of 4/6 cylinder.

You might also check a 2000 Toyota Avalon, 2000 Lexus ES300, or 2000 Lexus RX300. Same engine as a V6 Camry, but you'll need to check part numbers first. The Lexus variants may be VVTi (it'll say VVTi on the plastic engine cover), which may mean a different alternator compared to the normal 1MZ-FE V6 that you have. I know for sure the 2000 Avalon did not have VVTi. Toyota really used that engine in a bit of everything. You may also find it in a Solara, and anything else using a 3.0 V6 from the late 90s/early 00s.

Sienna also had that motor, but the same caution applies about checking if the alternator is the same.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Memento posted:

The word you're after is capacity. Also, your truck sounds awesome tbh.

"capacity" ain't no replacement for displacement.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


mariooncrack posted:

I thought it was the heat shield too, thanks for helping me confirm it. Looks like there's three points where it tore from, two mounts roughly where I took the picture and one more near the middle of the exhaust. I'll look into the washers, thanks. I took this in Thursday to get an oil change and they didn't mention this at all. Maybe they missed it? I can't iamgine that this happened in the last two days.

By the way, the term for extra-wide washers is "fender washers"

They look like this:

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


Safety Dance posted:

Straight-cut gears?

Perhaps it's talking about the ring & pinion in the diff? So the ring would be straight-cut instead of beveled? Would that even make noise? Does that even make any sense? That's the closest thing to a "screw drive" I can think of in a modern automobile.

kid sinister posted:

The secondary dash power socket in my 2003 F250 doesn't work with any adapter I plug into it. Here's the weird thing though: I tested it with my multimeter and it has proper voltage. Has anyone come across this before?

Maybe it's deeper than most other sockets? Or maybe the center pin is a little bit off-center? If it's not a mechanical problem like that, maybe it's got a terrible connection someplace, so therefore a high resistance, so with no load there appears to be voltage, but as soon as you try to pull current the voltage drops?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


PaintVagrant posted:

It sounds like it's referring to a rally or touring car, both have super whiney straight cut sequential gearboxes.

Sure, but where in a sequential gearbox do they use a screw drive?

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


IOwnCalculus posted:

I would chalk that up to whatever language it's being translated from having a word that can be used for either 'gear' or 'screw' and the latter being the more common usage.

Oh, I guess I misunderstood the circumstance. I thought the poster was translating something in English into some other language, and wanted clarification on the English term.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


coronaball posted:

Starter problem?

I'd say it could be a starter problem, it could be a wiring/connections problem, or it could (still) be a battery problem. Some battery testers aren't very rigorous and won't simulate enough of a load to find the problem. However, I'd start by making sure that the wiring doesn't look dodgy, and that all the connections are tight and not corroded. I have an intermittent bad connection in my battery cable end, and it manifests as lights working perfectly fine but starter just clicks (because it can't pull enough current through the dirty connection). The difficulty you're having with jumping it leads me to believe that either there's a bad connection somewhere not at the battery, or the battery or starter is actually bad.

tldr, hard to say over the internet.

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.


coronaball posted:

The positive terminal has corrosion, but not much and we brushed at it and had the same result.

Did you un-bolt the cable from the battery, and properly clean it with one of these?



If so, you're right, that's not your problem. If you just brushed off what was visible without taking the battery cable off the battery, then it could still be part of the problem.

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