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nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

My mom Mitsu Outlander Sport needs some brake work, and I'm thinking it would be a good idea to bleed the brakes too. I plan on using my MityVac, as it's worked pretty good so far. Do I need to worry about anything with the ABS system? What about the order I bleed them in?

Also, any recommendations for a repair manual for the Outlander Sport? Chilton's, AllData, et cetera don't seem to have anything. Only eBay does, are they any good?

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nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

My brother just replaced the brake pads on his '98 Civic, and now there's a lot less pedal travel. The brakes weren't bled, just some new fluid was added to the reservoir. Is this normal?

I thought calipers adjusted themselves, so the pads don't have to move more as they wear. Not urgent, just curious.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

I've got some rust coming in on the rocker panels on my Honda Fit. I live in Minnesota so it sees quite a bit of salt, snow, et cetera. What's the best way to treat it? Clear POR-15? Undercoating?

There isn't any undercoating on the car right now. I'm leaning toward a combination of the two, where I'd get the rockers with the POR-15 and spray undercoating on the underside. I'm not opposed to paying a shop, but I'd rather DIY if it's not such a bad job.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

I could use some armchair diagnostics. This is for a 2009 Honda Fit with a manual transmission.

Anyway, I was out running some errands and suddenly my car started making grinding noises (as if something was dragging on the ground). The grinding got worse and eventually the car wouldn't go any further forward. Curiously, I could put it in reverse, and that didn't seem like an issue, but when I tried to launch from first gear it felt like the parking brake was on, but it at least wasn't engaged by me.

The last week or so I noticed some noise coming from the front end when I hit bumps. I thought it sounded like a loose ball joint. I can't say they're related, but it did seem to make that noise then it went into the grinding.

A couple people couldn't seem to push it when it was in neutral, and even the tow truck seemed to struggle pulling it forward, again it was in neutral and as far as I know the parking brake wasn't on.

So any ideas? I replaced the front brake pads about two months ago and had the drum brakes adjusted about the same time. So I wonder about that, but the one shop was thinking the clutch could be at fault. I'm skeptical of this and definitely won't just take their word for it if that's what they come back with.

I'd really appreciate some thoughts on this. Let me know if you need any more information.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

Breakfast Feud posted:

Check your transmission fluid for starters, have a look around the tranny if you can see anywhere that looks like it may have leaked. Has the clutch gotten soft lately?
It's at the shop right now. The one other thing that was done recently was a drain and fill of the transmission, so... I hope that isn't what we're looking at.


Corla Plankum posted:

Trade it in...
Corla, what happened to your Fit? I've had mine for almost 3 years and haven't really had any issues. This would be the first breakdown.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 01:57 on May 13, 2018

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

spankmeister posted:

What I'm not getting here is that the car made terrible grinding noises and you decided to keep driving it?

It was probably 500 feet I drove once the grinding noise started. Getting pulled over and everything.

Thanks for the info, Corla. Iíll keep it in mind. I suppose there are other hatchbacks out there.

Iíll let you all know what comes of this.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

Kommienzuspadt posted:

C. Vredestrian Quatrac 5 (235/55R19) - ~ $165/ea tirerack

What say you AI?

As quoted, C. I think you can do it without snow tires. Plenty of people up here in MN roll on them (in various states). Anyway, if you find out differently, get some.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

I can vouch for the Sumitomos too. Havenít had any problems with them on my Fit. Too good a deal to pass up, and Tires Plus did all right with the mounting.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

How often should you replace struts? My Fitís got 140KMi on it, and I doubt if theyíve been replaced. Ideally, I would wait till the spring (broken ankle). They arenít sagging or leaking.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

Nohearum posted:

Does anyone know how i stop this coolant leak on my 1997 Civic (D17Y8) motor? I was convinced it was the upper radiator hose that was leaking, but after replacing it twice I've realized that its actually leaking from the bottom of the fitting that the upper radiator hose connects to. Its a really minor leak but the occasional smell of coolant burning off the exhaust manifold is annoying.

There appears to be some sort of gasket in between the fitting and the engine. Does anyone know if thats a premade gasket or just liquid gasket? Do I need to drain all the coolant prior to taking this fitting off? I've gotten away with not draining when I've replaced the radiator hose. I can't seem to find any info on the usual honda forums since I don't know what this fitting is called.




I guess I better replace the valve cover gasket while I'm at it...

Thatís your thermostat housing. Itís been a little while, but I swear my del Sol used a paper gasket, and I think my brotherís Ď98 Civic does too. A refresh of it all should help (thermostat, thermostat gasket, and the housing gasket). Make sure you tighten the bolts to spec too.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

For the best deal on a matching set, Iíd check out TireRack and pick something with good reviews. Looks they have a fair number of options for your Lexus.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

Any way to take out scratches in a windshield? They arenít too deep, but I put probably a dozen or so on it. Got caught without my ice scraper. :-/

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

Yeah, step it up to a Wix or Mopar for sure. Nobody here likes Fram, and itís not unfounded.

As for oil, Iíd get the right weight and kind and get on with life. :-)

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

Itís always a personal decision, but repairs are generally the less expensive route. I canít speak for the quote, but getting a second opinion isnít a bad idea.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

I've been having some difficulties getting into first gear on my 2009 Honda Fit. I'll be at a stoplight, and when it's time to launch sometimes it just won't drop in. It started doing this last year, so I got the transmission oil changed on it, but that hasn't seemed to help. To clarify, it works most of the time, but not all of the time. Any ideas on what could be going on?

As a workaround, I've been launching from second in these cases. I'm guessing that's not great for the clutch and all that, but is there anything else I'm putting wear on?

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

PaintVagrant posted:

Clutch in, shift into second, then into first. Does it seem to slide in easier?

Yeah, I think this has helped. I usually just launch in second because I don't want to hold up traffic or get killed.

I haven't had trouble with other gears that I can recall, and shoving it harder doesn't do anything when it doesn't want to go.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

StormDrain posted:

So you canít physically push the shifter where it needs to go? Will it get into gear if you let the clutch out a little while pushing?

It seems like when itís stuck it just wonít budge. Not into first at least. Sometimes letting the clutch out helps but not all the time.

Again, this doesnít happen all the time, but enough that Iím starting to wonder whatís happening.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

toplitzin posted:

Wrar and I are going to check out this older Civic for a DD/commuter for me.
https://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/...6795847999.html

It's been a hot minute either of us have thought about 90's Hondas. Where there any Civic specific things to check for in this generation?

As mentioned, the timing belt would be the big thing on one of these. If they can't prove it's been done recently, I'd ask for at least that much off their asking price. I'd be curious about the clutch too, but even poorly maintained they really can run forever.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

Get wheels and get everything taken care of the first time. I put my new winters on my old wheels with old TPMS sensors. The orange light drives me just a little crazy.

Also, welcome to MN. Itís not all bad.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

Dukket posted:

So far I'm liking MN, looking forward to easier access to camping/hiking/winter sports and hoping to rekindle some other outdoor activities I've been away from for a long time. Its kinda funny, anyone to reads the same threads as me is probably sick of seeing my posts about moving to MN.

Yeah, I had read that going to a smaller wheel for snow tires is the way to go and that makes sense. Tirerack sellers winter combos, I'll have to check to see if that works out price wise, I really don't know anything about wheels other than alloy v steel.

Mine does have the pressure sensor and I assume that is something only a shop can hook up, but that just means I need to pay attention to my tire pressure (which I should be doing anyway) and deal with the light?

I'm still a bit annoyed that Haynes still hasn't produced a book for my year/make/model, its a popular car and four years old. They said they might do one this year. I have you tube until then I guess.

This might be a question that is helpful to others as well - what is a good starter set of tools to collect for basic maintenance?

For winters, I run black steelies, but I also run black steelies for summers.

It depends on the sensors. I don't have to go in and get mine synced, I just put on one set and it picks up the sensors. Mileage varies though I'm guessing. Same deal with what they'll do, all I've actually dealt with are dash lights, but I've heard about chimes and crap like that.

As far as tools go, there are tons of options. Some people like the Crescent tool kits. They cover pretty much everything you need, and they're pretty decent quality. They are bulky though.

I can't help but plug kctoolco.com here too. My alternative recommendation would be a Wera Tool-Check Plus. It's not nearly as comprehensive as the Crescent set, but it can still do quite a bit in a very tidy and portable package. I'd just keep these guys in mind. They sell German tools, and I haven't been disappointed by anything I've picked up from them. It's totally worth getting a nice screwdriver set if nothing else.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

nitsuga posted:

I've been having some difficulties getting into first gear on my 2009 Honda Fit. I'll be at a stoplight, and when it's time to launch sometimes it just won't drop in. It started doing this last year, so I got the transmission oil changed on it, but that hasn't seemed to help. To clarify, it works most of the time, but not all of the time. Any ideas on what could be going on?

As a workaround, I've been launching from second in these cases. I'm guessing that's not great for the clutch and all that, but is there anything else I'm putting wear on?

Sorry to revive this on everybody, but it's been acting up some more now. I have been able to get it most of the time putting it in second then going into first before launching. Is it the synchros or something like that?

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

Beaten to the punch. Moral of the story is to please use OEM head bolts. Head gaskets (and all the rest) really arenít that fun to replace.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 20:11 on Feb 9, 2019

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

It may just be looking at them on a phone screen, but that tire looks pretty worn too.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

I'm going to refresh the struts and shocks on my '09 Honda Fit. Other than eBay lowering kit junk, I can't seem to find coil springs for the rear though. They're not broken or anything last time I checked, so am I better off leaving them alone?

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

No compression in cylinder one. Pretty common to just replace the whole engine?

Mechanic 1 wants $3700 to replace that and a clutch for an Ď09 Fit with a two year warranty on both. Is that reasonable? Anything else I should consider replacing other than the car itself?

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

opengl128 posted:

Was any kind of diag work done? It could be something as simple as a stuck valve.

There was, though I don't know to what extent they diagnosed the issue beyond that there was no compression. Basically they ruled out fuel and spark issues. From there, it sounded like they did a compression test. If I were to give them a call, what kind of questions should I ask about their process?

EDIT: Thanks for the continued discussion! Sounds like a junkyard engine it is. It's a tough call, but I figure I probably won't find a better car for $3,700. Might be a sunk cost fallacy, but whatever.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

I definitely get the arguments against it. Itís probably too late at this point though, and I havenít really changed my mind. If I want to have a car, which for now I do, this is most likely the least expensive option. If it turns out Iím ďwrongĒ, I would be upset, but itís not disastrous for me personally. Weíll see I guess.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

That makes sense. It wouldnít hurt to give them a call. Find out a bit more on their process. My guess is theyíd be a lot less likely to warranty a ring replacement, but Iíll probably give one other shop a call.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 11:23 on Apr 11, 2019

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

Yeah, they said theyíre going to start in on it today and let me know if it was something easier than just replacing it wholesale. I got quoted $2300 for a head rebuild, with the caveat that it may not be that alone. Couple shops said pretty much the same thing. Like I said, I get the concern, but personally Iím excited to revive it. Itís been a good car, and it fulfills my needs rather well.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

There's a hole on Honda Fits' front and rear bumper that's covered with a plastic piece. If you pull back the piece it's threaded (at least in the rear). What is this for?

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

STR posted:

Tow hook. The hook is probably with your spare tire kit (lug wrench, jack handle, etc). It's meant to be used to pull your car onto a tow truck (or back onto the road if you've slid off) - it gives them a solid spot to attach to that won't bend anything important, and if you're off the road, it's a shitload easier for them to attach to that vs crawling around under the car.

Gotcha. My kit's all aftermarket, but I'll have to check that out. Might be able to score one off a junkyard if I call around I suppose.

EDIT: Looks like it's a no on having one of those in the kit. Would having one of these be putting too much faith in the aftermarket world? What about an actual bolt? Or do two truck drivers carry these themselves? I have gone in the ditch before, so there's a non-zero chance of using it as intended.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 22:04 on Sep 15, 2019

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

glyph posted:

If you can suss out what the thread is, I might be your guy- I've plucked a few of these from junkyards over the years.

E: I'll be damned if I can remembr what tjeure from...

M18 x 2.5. Iíd be all over a freebie.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

glyph posted:

Sorry to leave you hanging on this. I could only find one of them- I must have put them somewhere "safe" during the move last year. Unfortunately for you the only one I have seems to be m14x1.5, which is decidedly NOT the thread you're looking for.

No worries. I picked up one from the dealership and it wasnít too steep.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

If it's really busted, it might be worth trying to replace just the mount. That might just get you by till KYB gets one out there for you.

Otherwise, I'd probably take a chance on a set of Monroes up front. Other goons have said they were just fine. I was in a similar position because KYBs hadn't come out for my car, and just kept putting it off, but probably should have just bought what I could.

As for an alignment, if you've got a Firestone or Tires Plus near you, I think they still have an alignment for life kind of deal. It was $200 or so, but I think it's a good deal for anybody really and DIYers especially. Otherwise, yeah, you'll probably have to pay for another one (and possibly again if you replace just the mount now and the struts later).

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

DeesGrandpa posted:

Got the tundra. Frame is good, everything else seems good, and the price was very right. Pickups are drat fun.

Hey, you want pick something up for me? Iím moving next week too if youíre not busy.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

taqueso posted:

Recommend jumper cables. I had to use mine today and was reminded that the insulation cracked in a bunch of places last winter and they are held together by just copper strands now. I'd like to buy a set that will remain flexible at -10F.

e: I just want to buy something known to be decent and avoid whatever the monster cable equivalent is

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SINBR...wEAAAAAAAAAAI1u

RockAuto has a few choices too, if you'd prefer to go that route, I'd look for something with about the same specs (6 GA, 16').

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

Drink-Mix Man posted:

I've been trying to bargain shop for a used Prius. The ones I'm looking at are around ten years old and, of course, up in miles, usually around 180,000 - 260,000. I read different things about how long these cars last. Some say they get driven well over the 200,000 mark without major issues. What is everyone's experience around here? Is it worth plopping down $3k-4k on a Prius with that much wear on it if it seems to be well maintained?

Alternate choices are some Yarises I've been looking at with about 130k on them.

Maintenance is a big thing, but so is the battery. I've definitely seen Priuses go near and over 300K, but that was in a fleet. I don't think I'd opt for a cheap hybrid personally, as there are other options out there that will have more straightforward (and usually less expensive) needs. Yarises are OK, but I'd also take a look at Vibes, Matrixes, and Fits as well.

I mean hybrids are great and all, but I'm really not convinced of their superiority.

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

Motronic posted:

Cab fleets seem to be increasingly convinced of the ongoing operating costs of the Prius.

Thatís true. There are a bunch in that price range near me, so there might be a few more options than some other models too.

nitsuga fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Nov 12, 2019

nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

TheBananaKing posted:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074WGYC37/

Is there any chance these cheaper-than-dirt Chinese garbage motor mounts actually work at all?

I've got a 2005 Accord that's in great shape but has been sitting for a couple years and it's shaking when it starts to go into the 30s and continues even after it comes back down. The wheels are balanced and everything looks okay but the transmission mounts are a bit soft to the touch and the shop manager where the tires were balanced said it felt like the mounts or the axle were not happy. I'm all for getting by on the bare, bare minimum with this car if it doesn't impact safety and it's not going to just suck and/or fail in less than a year, ish. So I wouldn't mind having garbage mounts if they sorta get the job done for a while at less than a quarter the cost of Napa... But it just seems crazy cheap. Anyways, the pictures seem to match the OEM parts pretty well.

Rock Auto has some too. No idea about those Amazon ones, but I trust Rock Auto a little more than Amazon at least. That's totally subjective though.

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nitsuga
Dec 31, 2006

It's the only way to live.

glyph posted:

I donít know the car all that well, is that a fender or a quarter panel?

If itís a fender, there are sellers on eBay and elsewhere that sell painted body panels. Itís likely that wonít match 100% in direct sunlight at some angles, but everything bolts up. Just make sure you do a little research and figure out which plastic clips and poo poo youíll need, because thereís basically zero chance you wonít break at least a few of them.

If itís a quarter, and part of the unibody, then definitely donít take this lightly- it might be worth farming out to get it done well enough that you wonít have premature corrosion issues down the road.

Did you buy the car used? That looks suspiciously like bondo under the paint.

E: Iím not sure how DIY youíre feeling about this, adjust accordingly.

It's definitely the fender. The amber turn signal in the corner was my tip-off. Really would be curious to know why there's body filler on that fender.

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