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About 20 years ago I was gifted a craftsman mechanic tool & socket set. That poo poo is half lost and half rusted out now, and I'm ready to own something of which I can take proper care. I'm rebuilding a '71 challenger so I want SAE and hopefully 12 pt? Rakuten has a nice-looking gearwrench set for 220 bux. Is their stuff a gimmick? What should I buy? I'm looking to spend less than $400. I don't want to gently caress around with replacing individual craftsman pieces. I want a set with extenders and all three drive sizes.
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Apr 1, 2015 05:12
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 02:57 |
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Uthor posted:Tool thread! Oops! Thank you.
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Apr 1, 2015 13:38
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Anybody got any novel means of getting rid of gasoline? My county's solution for gasoline disposal is basically 'hope a local service shop will take it off your hands' but I have checked around and none will. I've got to replace a tank on a '71 challenger I intend to restore. I think there's about three gallons in there.
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Oct 12, 2015 04:02
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I replaced a fuel tank and sending unit in a '71 Challenger today. The sending unit has an electrical connection for the gas gauge, but I haven't been able to figure out how to connect the wire/boot to the new sending unit. It just popped right off the old one, but it seems like it won't just press back on to the new one. It looks like the brake distribution block has the same type of connector. Anybody got any tips?
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Oct 26, 2015 03:34
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I searched high and low for upper control arm ball joint dust boots for my 71 challenger (e-body) and had such a terrible time that I wound up just buying entirely new control arms. I thought I'd ask, out of curiosity (since it's too late now), if anybody here knows either how to find those boots or what I might have been doing wrong in trying to find them?
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Jan 16, 2016 04:15
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Enourmo posted:Do replacement ball joints not come with new ones? I'm an idiot. Didn't even think of buying just the joint. Went straight from looking for the boot to replacing the whole arm.
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Jan 16, 2016 15:46
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Nevermind
theres a will theres moe fucked around with this message at 03:45 on Mar 28, 2016 |
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Mar 28, 2016 03:43
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I just bought an '86 Scirocco (mkII) 8v and one of the first things I am hoping to solve is that the heater is stuck ON. The temperature selector lever will not move to cold. I've taken the console and underside of the dash apart and it appears to me that the temperature lever pulls a cable that runs forward through the firewall on the driver's side. I believe the point of resistance is this cable or whatever it is attached to in the engine compartment. Anybody know what this cable attaches to? A mixing valve? To know for sure what it is named will help. I've ordered a shop manual but it hasn't arrived yet. Any tips appreciated.
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Jul 2, 2016 20:15
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0toShifty posted:The heater control valve is located between the firewall and the cyinder head water outlet on the right of the head. You'll find it just below the intake tube and ignition coil. Thanks a bunch! Parts ordered. You're the man. Expect lots of PMs, haha.
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Jul 3, 2016 01:00
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bennyfactor posted:I have a flat tire that's got more than half of it's tread life still. The tire was driven less than a mile on neighborhood streets between when it was parked and it looked properly inflated (it's the front left and I look at it before getting in the car) and when I stopped because it was shuddering. My mechanic took it off to plug it, but found that there's about a 1" slice in the treads that is roughly parallel to the rolling direction of the tire. He marked where the damage is and where the valve stem was so the wheel wouldn't need to be rebalanced, but thought fixing the tire itself was beyond his tools/experience. I have had good luck with customer service at Tire Discounters and have gotten patches walking in at NTB. If your tires are in great shape and you live in an area where business is booming, maybe they're less likely to help. Did they refuse to do the work because the tire is hosed or because they're too busy? Try going to an NTB or someplace and tell them you need a patch and that also you hate your tires (they're too noisy or I prefer Michelins to contis or whatever) and are looking for prices on another set to research for next paycheck. They might do the patch, if it's possible, just to earn your future business and give you a printout of their prices, which might come in handy anyway if your patch fails. Also try going on an off-hour like 2:30 PM when nobody is making appointments. Walk in instead of calling. They'll probably help you if they're not busy.
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Jul 5, 2016 00:42
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 02:57 |
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1971 Challenger. I'm working on the diff. 8.75" rear end and 741 housing. 2.7-whatever ratio ring and pinion. I'm trying to install an Eaton truetrac where there was an open OEM diff. I've had this thing taken apart for a month now because I keep having to reorder parts when I gently caress something up. For instance: did you know that a bearing shim can be directional?! No? Alright, pull off that brand new bearing you just hosed and order another. ANYWAY I have reinstalled new pinion races and bearings and I'm trying to reinstall the pinion itself. When I torque down the main pinion nut that ties it to the yoke and loads the bearings, the pinion becomes hard to turn. It doesn't spin freely like it did originally, it stops completely when I stop applying turning force to the yoke and it is pretty stiff. It does turn smoothly, though. Is this normal? If not, what am I doing wrong? Edited for clarity. E2: after a brain-cleaing drive around town I realized the nut in question is both loading and setting lash. I looked up the torque spec for it and it was only 13-15 lbs. It seemed impossible to turn when I was disassembling, which is why I thought it would be a really high torque spec. So I pressed the pinion out a bit and re-tightened the nut by 16ths of a turn until there was almost no in-out play when pulling on the yoke, and discovered that that's where it also gets stiff to turn. So I got it now. theres a will theres moe fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Jul 4, 2018 |
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Jul 4, 2018 17:49
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