|
So I might be buying an 84 s10 with a bad rear main seal leak. The exhaust headers are likely rusted to the block. What would be the best way to replace the rear seal assuming I won't have access to a lift?
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2016 00:38
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 10:40 |
|
|
Next stupid question! Would a 1987 GM v6 4.3L out of a c10 drop into an 84 s10 without too much trouble? It comes with a th350 transmission, but I'd like to keep the 5 speed in the s10 if at all possible.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 28, 2016 12:48
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:That generation was available with that motor starting in '88, so I can't imagine the engine bay is significantly different. You might have to swap the oil pan to clear the front crossmember depending on how the C10 is set up, but it wouldn't be a major project at all. TBI is a joke to adapt, just swap the ecu (does your truck even have an ecu?), it's like 10 wires max. I did some more digging throughout the day and it turns out in the particular truck I want the swap won't work. Apparently, the 2.8L v6 was a 60 degree motor and used a transmission bolt pattern that was different than the 90 degree 2.5L. Also, apparently, the 4.3L v6 from the c10s was never mated to a manual transmission. I'm probably going to get it and drive the poo poo out of it until the 2.8 croaks and then just drop a 305 in there.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 29, 2016 02:50
|
|
|
Christobevii3 posted:What the gently caress are you thinking? 60 degree chevy's bad... Just going with cheapest locally available options. Don't have to worry about harnesses too much, it's all carbureted. For what the guy's selling it for, I think I'm gonna give replacing the two-piece rear seal a shot and get at least a few years out of it. 305s and 4.3 v6s are super cheap, one guy was just selling his leak-free 4.3 with the TH350 for $150. It would be kinda pointless to do all that work for no real performance upgrades though...
|
|
#
¿
Apr 30, 2016 02:29
|
|
|
Real stupid question, but is there/are there good resources for learning about OBD II systems? Like, I'm really curious as to what kind of signals the sensors send, what the computer "looks" for, that kind of thing. I know so little about the system as it is that I'm not sure if this question even makes sense. Are there even data sheets for the sensors? Like, if you were nerdy and bored what tools would you need to see what's broken?
|
|
#
¿
May 8, 2016 20:07
|
|
|
Find a small muffler + brake shop somewhere local and have the guy look at it. If you go to a chain/the dealership it'll end up in the hundreds for sure. If it's just pads it shouldn't be too bad, but smaller guys are willing to do stuff like actually fix the issue instead of saying "whelp that'll be $1600 for new brakes all around".
|
|
#
¿
May 10, 2016 00:29
|
|
|
So, My girlfriend's 2011 Corolla has had the airbag light on for a while. It's her daily as I've got a company car for work, so I try and keep my ham-fists out of it. Took it to my mechanic, he said it was a bad clock spring. $700 in parts and labor later, the light was off for a day. I got an OBD II reader and it's not showing any codes. Up until I pulled the negative battery lead and pumped the brakes the passenger air-bag light turned on and seemed to indicate that it was working. Now the passenger's side is off, the airbag light is still on and no codes show up on my reader. Definitely going to call my mechanic back on Monday but any ideas as to what it may be? I've read everything from "bad ground on dash light" to "entire airbag computer system needs replacing". Thoughts?
|
|
#
¿
Feb 13, 2017 00:26
|
|
|
I think the correct answer would be to figure out the frequency of the ignition interference and install a filter between the antenna and radio, like a Hi-Pass or Lo-Pass or something. But I don't have the braincells for that. Personally I'd try using a faraday cage (read: metal bowl) over the distributor and seeing what happens.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 13, 2017 04:01
|
|
|
Slim Pickens posted:Just picked up a non-running 1999 Chevy Astro AWD (auto)and planning to drop a 90,000mi engine in it from a 2000 Blazer, both the 4.3l Vortec. I'm at least 95% sure compatibility isn't an issue, so that's not my question. I'm wondering what all I should replace/refresh while I've got the engine, trans, and subframe out from under the van. I'm willing to do quite a bit as far as rebuilding goes, as there's no time crunch on the van yet, just don't want to go overboard on poo poo that'll last another 200k miles no problem. We'll use the van for camping primarily, so I don't see us putting another 100k miles on it within 5 years. Take a real close look at the power steering pump and if it shows the smallest signs of leaking, replace or rebuild it. It's a really common failure on those vans.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 14, 2017 03:26
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:03 protege just started flashing the airbag light while driving. It's just a constant repeated series of six flashes. Should I be concerned? I just got a clutch line and slave cylinder replaced, could they have jostled something to cause this? Yeah definite cause for concern if it's a daily driver. That blink code means something, and while the light is on the airbag system won't deploy. I did a quick google and it says that a blink group of six means a problem with the driver's side airbag. If your horn and cruise control don't work it could very well be the clock spring. You'll need an srs reader if you want specifics from the airbag computer, so probably take it in.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 17, 2017 23:46
|
|
|
If it is actually you rubber door seal, they're usually super easy to pull off and replace. If the rubber is so badly degraded it's coming off in streaks it probably isn't worth trying to save.
|
|
#
¿
Feb 20, 2017 03:01
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Update: I am by no means an authority but I think you're rushing to junk the ECU way, way too quick here. Honestly maybe start a thread? My thought process for this would be as follows: 1. Find the source of the buzzing. Repair issue. If all other problems persist... 2. Disassemble anything you have re assembled and undo any wiring you have done. See if car reacts normally now. Trace and check all wires you came close to. Anyway, you're going to need a multimeter and even a cheap one will do. To find the source of the buzzing I would reinsert the battery and then slowly pull the fuses one by one from the engine bay. Just work in rows. If that doesn't work move onto the fuses inside the cabin leaving the engine bay fuses out for now. I'm willing to bet there will be a point that the buzzing will stop once a particular fuse is pulled. Reinsert all the fuses except for the culprit, one by one, listening to see if the buzzing restarts at some point just to ensure the problem is limited to one circuit. Obviously you're using your owners manual with the fusebox diagrams for this so you'll know what value fuse goes where, and you'll know where to start looking for the problem. You'll likely need some sort of wiring diagram to set you on the right track in your search.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 2, 2017 02:59
|
|
|
Preoptopus posted:I'm with this guy. Ecus will rarely fail on their own. Sounds like it's in limp mode . Have u tried doing a hard reset where u disconnect the battery and connect the leads together with a aligator clamp or something and leaving it alone for 10 min or so. The staying on without the key thing is weird I would suspect the ignition switch. Also it would be a bizarre failure mode to have the ECU get stuck 'on' instead of just giving up completely. Plus, he said that he was rough with a number of things, so my money is on a circuit getting energized when it shouldn't be due to crimped/stripped wire. ROFLburger posted:What is the likelihood that an oil cap with a tablespoon of milky poo poo in it is not a headgasket issue? Compression test it.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 2, 2017 03:20
|
|
|
Invalido posted:I'm planning a garage build. Breaking ground is at least a year off, so it's not a thread-worthy project yet. I'd say try for a gambrel roof. It's a self supporting design that can be reinforced with an A frame type thing too if necessary but either way you get loads more space that way. It should have no problem with snow loading.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 3, 2017 20:23
|
|
|
curiosity hosed me up posted:I just bought a 2005 ford crown victoria (78,000 miles). Check engine light turned on today code P0430 - catalyst system efficiency below threshold (bank 2). I don't know poo poo about cars but a google search tells me that issues in this area are very expensive. I do not live in a state with emissions tests. Is this something i need to have fixed? Google says to check for exhaust leaks, then move to o2 sensor and then the catalytic converter. Personally I would just keep driving it until rough idle symptom started unless the o2 sensor is really cheap for that car and not rusted to poo poo.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 4, 2017 23:25
|
|
|
curiosity hosed me up posted:I paid to have it inspected before i bought it so maybe it is just a bad sensor. The report said everything was fine with the exhaust system. Is this something they should have caught? No problem, and it really depends on the shop. I've had places that just check all the checkmarks off the sheet and take your money. Easy way to find exhaust leaks is to grab a flashlight and turn the car on, then point the beam along the length of the exhaust pipe. Should be able to tell pretty quick if there is exhaust gas coming out of somewhere. Realistically a bad sensor is probably the most likely culprit. If it's possible you can remove it and see how dirty it is and maybe clean it?
|
|
#
¿
Mar 5, 2017 00:35
|
|
|
So my friend bought a used 2004 civic SI and he's had both the battery and check engine lights on since he got it. No part of the charging system is faulty, the car drives fine except it burns way more than it should, sometimes it revs really high. He found out it had been re-keyed and just recently a shop told him the ECU VIN doesn't match the car VIN. So, I'm thinking the ECU hasn't been set up for his car and is expecting the donor car still and throwing codes because of it. If that's the case, how do you fix it?
autism ZX spectrum fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Mar 10, 2017 |
|
#
¿
Mar 10, 2017 01:51
|
|
|
PainterofCrap posted:Believe that you have to go to the dealer for that one, & they throw some device on it, and key in the VIN, & sorta re-flash it. That makes sense, thanks! Cop Porn Popper posted:Does his title match the cars vin or the ecus vin? Title matches the car's vin, which doesn't match the ECU, and neither of which match the motor.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 10, 2017 13:07
|
|
|
LingcodKilla posted:So I got the replacement assembly from the junkyard but surprise the part was mildly busted. At least the bulb housing was good but it required a lot of extra time to create one good assembly out of my original one and the junk yard replacement. The light plugs in and works now. I'm pretty sure these are just a pain in the dick, I recall working with them at some point (I want to say it was on my old Ranger?). Is the other one still on the headlight? if so take a look at how it lines up. I think they only go on one way and it really sucks to line them up.
|
|
#
¿
Mar 14, 2017 01:53
|
|
|
I had a 200X Mazda Protege that just absolutely loved the +4s
|
|
#
¿
Mar 16, 2017 11:56
|
|
|
Deteriorata posted:A lot of avgas is still leaded, so all those private planes are spewing lead everywhere. There are only a handful of countries that still allow it as a motor fuel. Chemtrails are real after all!
|
|
#
¿
Mar 30, 2017 12:11
|
|
|
Get either a small ratchet set -or- go to harbor freight/princess auto and get a 3/8s ratchet and a few more common sockets. If you want to go super minimal just get the one wrench that fits your battery terminals. A wire brush is cheap and a nice thing to have if you ever find yourself getting a no-start from corrosion.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 2, 2017 18:41
|
|
|
Zero VGS posted:If I need to jack up a Ford Ranger, will four 16-inch jack stands get it higher than four of those steel tire ramps you drive up on to that raise the truck 8-inches? It seems like the the frame of the truck is 8 inches or more from the ground, so the ramps might actually get it as high or higher for way less effort. Last time I had to lift a ranger to any useful height I got a 4x4 post and turned it into blocks, then put my jackstands on those. Used a scissor or bottle jack also on blocks to lift it. This way you can sit the jackstands on the frame and not have to piss around with other, inferior lift points.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 3, 2017 00:05
|
|
|
Seems like a pinch weld adaptor for the jackstands might go a long way
|
|
#
¿
Apr 10, 2017 02:25
|
|
|
A grinder would work, so would a chisel and hammer (probably)
|
|
#
¿
Apr 11, 2017 03:10
|
|
|
If the car was ever offered with a manual steering gear then there will most likely be a different sized belt available too. Manual steering can be a lot of fun, but also a pain in the dick if it's your daily.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 25, 2017 12:01
|
|
|
Suspect Bucket posted:Hey, what's the best way to insulate a fiberglass truck topper? Just looking for an r5-10ish to keep the heat and noise down, I'd like to camp in it in the Florida area, so humid and hot. Can I just use rigid foam, a DIY sprayfoam, or should I invest in some Aluminized Heat and Noise Shield. It'd be a white topper on a white truck (2010 Ford Ranger XL Supercab). Is this feasable, or dumb? I would think that rigid foam should be fine for your purposes. Unless you're already familiar with spray foam I wouldn't risk it.
|
|
#
¿
Apr 27, 2017 12:04
|
|
|
Beverly Cleavage posted:Anyone? Bueller? here?
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2017 17:28
|
|
|
I have never heard of anyone having a preference as to brand/type/style. They're not really performance parts and I can't see there being too much of a difference. I'd check your local classifieds or maybe see if you can go use an earlier model year's running boards on yours and pick some up at the junkyard?
|
|
#
¿
May 7, 2017 19:39
|
|
|
Zero VGS posted:Ah, I think that's what it is, it's windshield caulk which is urethane-based instead of silicone. At least it seems like I'm dealing with the same poo poo as it's super strong and hard to pull out compared to say silicone bathroom caulk. I work with lead acid batteries, although not in automotive applications, and there's a certain kind of double sided tape/foam that gets all weird and goopy with age. Could it be that?
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2017 02:39
|
|
|
Zero VGS posted:Nah, whatever this was it was put in with a caulking gun. I'm not sure how far plastidip will go in this application. It's pretty weak as a coating, and if your batteries are moving around (which they shouldn't, but plastidip won't stop them from doing so) they will wear through the coating pretty quick.
|
|
#
¿
May 9, 2017 12:06
|
|
|
RIP Paul Walker posted:Here is a stupid question: Why do minivans have such small amounts of front legroom? I am not that tall, but I drive minivans with the seat all the way back and still wish for significantly more legroom. If you're at all worried about gas mileage don't get the Astro
|
|
#
¿
May 29, 2017 00:22
|
|
|
Zero VGS posted:I never need to go under it, I'm sliding the battery pack out to work on it, sliding it under when we need to park another car, and when the pack is finished I jack up the motorcycle lift it rests on and bolt the pack on from the sides. What was the process for lifting the truck? Did you put it on the ramps first then lift the ramps or what?
|
|
#
¿
May 31, 2017 12:12
|
|
|
If you don't have an impact wrench now would be a good time to get one. Penetrating oil, then heat, then impact. Rinse/repeat.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 3, 2017 22:19
|
|
|
Ethics_Gradient posted:
I forget where I saw it but a guy repainted a car on his front street using tremclad, rollers and a lot of high grit sandpaper. You'll have to spend a fuckload of time sanding because you'll get dirt and grit into the paint while it's drying. It's going to be super lovely and a ton of work but if that's what you want then go for it.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 10, 2017 02:02
|
|
|
If you're really worried then you can always put a piece of wood between the jack and the puck to prevent the jack from digging into the puck like that. As long as you're not getting under it though, I think it'll be okay.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 10, 2017 16:01
|
|
|
GOTTA STAY FAI posted:How easy would it be to replace the brake lines in my '94 Ford Ranger? The truck spent most of its life in Michigan, and the mechanic tells me that salt from the winter roads rusted them out. He also quoted me $1000 in labor alone for the job, which I'm pretty sure is deterrent pricing, because he didn't seem enthused about taking the job, but for all I know, it may actually be that big a task. I just did this on my old dodge and it's totally achievable but how aggravating it is depends on your skill level. Get a set of speed bleeder first, then a set of flare nut wrenches, mid to good quality ones. You'll likely have to drop a bunch of stuff like the manifold/headers and starter to get at the proportioning block somewhere in the C channel then it's a matter of just undoing the lines at both ends and not putting too many bend in them as you take them out. Then take the shorter one to a parts store, find the right fittings and get a flare tool and some brake line in bulk. You'll spend an afternoon (or less, if you're better at this than I am and invest in a good flare tool) recreating the flares. Bend the lines (you'll need a bender but I've heard guys can do it with a beer can) into a rough approximation of your old ones and reinstall. It sucks but it saves you mad amounts of money. The proportioning block is brass and shouldn't seize too bad when it comes to removing the lines.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 12, 2017 22:41
|
|
|
GOTTA STAY FAI posted:Thanks for all the brake line suggestions for my Ranger, guys and gals. I may end up making them myself as was suggested because that looks way less expensive than buying them pre-made. The line comes in 25ft lengths or so, so you'll have plenty of extra to practice with. I'm also a godawful plumber, but apparently flares are pretty foolproof by design.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 14, 2017 01:22
|
|
|
It's probably going to be a huge hassle trying to circumvent the immobilizer and it will probably void any insurance if they find it.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 14, 2017 03:34
|
|
|
|
| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 10:40 |
|
|
It's possible to seal a hairline radiator crack with the following: -JB Weld -Bondo (the kind with the hair in it) -Fiberglass Not recommended if you at all care about the vehicle and/or have concerns about things catching fire.
|
|
#
¿
Jun 19, 2017 12:13
|
|