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What are considered the respected, knowledgeable, useful, BMW forums out there? I just bought a 1992 BMW 735iL and I'm looking for resources for other E32 drivers for stuff like parts, repairs, general wisdom etc. I know there are a lot of junk BMW forums so I'm looking for the one people respect. Any help?
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# ¿ Nov 6, 2016 01:48 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 08:18 |
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1998 Isuzu Rodeo This beater has been reliable as hell for me until today. Replaced the Fuel pump at 120k mi. but that's been the only major issue. About 1/4mi. from home last night the brake light on the dash lights up, the battery symbol lights up, and the engine squeels. I drive the last 1/4mi home with no power steering. I park it, and decide to look at it in the morning, when I see this under the hood... The belt has snapped off of the pulleys, wrapped around the fan, and apparently knocked one of the pulleys off axis. Wonderful! *gently caress* So, can anyone tell me wtf happened here, and how to remedy it? Thanks so much for your time.
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# ¿ Jun 12, 2017 22:08 |
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What's the assembly called? For instance if I was searching to purchase it online. Sorry obviously I'm a mechanical newb, I don't know what to look for here.
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# ¿ Jun 12, 2017 22:27 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:To add to this, the only real possibility that anything has gone horribly wrong is if the engine was somehow able to overheat during that last half mile and cause damage. But if you drove it sensibly, you're fine. Twice I've driven trucks where the front snout of the water pump broke off, resulting in both a loss of all accessory drive and a massive coolant leak on top of it. First time I limped it to the closest parking lot at the next exit (2 miles away), second time I probably drove it five miles home without even really trying to limp it. Both engines (a small block Chevy and a Ford Pinto) were perfectly fine after repairs. Yeah thankfully no overheating or any other issues other than the dash lights I mentioned- brake and battery. But it drives up and down the street fine, just no power steering. Obviously I will not be driving it anywhere again until I fix this, I just needed to test it after sitting overnight. IOwnCalculus posted:Doubleposting: Rockauto will often sell a whole "accessory belt kit" that includes the belt and any tensioners / idlers. *EDIT* I'm pretty sure this is what I'm supposed to buy, right? http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5963883&cc=1315873&jsn=339
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# ¿ Jun 12, 2017 22:33 |
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I'm going to look at a 1988 Toyota van, similar to the ones talked about here - https://autofrei.wordpress.com/2011/04/12/fascination-of-the-boring-1983-1989-toyota-van/ Without knowing any details, are there any known issues with these vans I should look for?
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# ¿ Aug 7, 2017 20:42 |
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Woke up earlier and went to drive my 91' BMW 735. Out of nowhere, the steering has become much stiffer. Not to the point where I could tell the power steering was out- but it feels like its getting there. Is this just a case for more power steering fluid, or is it likely to be something else?
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# ¿ Aug 29, 2017 19:08 |
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Check all suspension components? One dry ball joint can seize up and bend even beefy suspension components. Think of a large, powered parallelogram where one joint suddenly seizes up. This is exactly what it was. Bushing was shot. Crazy that it felt just like a P.S. issue. scuz posted:Do you hear a low whining noise when you're turning the wheel from lock-to-lock while the car is running? If so, it could be low on PS fluid. Nope. But that's a good point for future reference to look for that sound.
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# ¿ Aug 30, 2017 01:21 |
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A Bag of Milk posted:Hello all, I have a 97 Subaru Legacy I don't know what to do with. I worked at a body shop and bumpers are pretty ridiculously cheap to fix or replace - if you want to keep the car. Maybe even check with like a certi-fit vendor, or local bumper repair guy for a quote. There are ppl that just drive around fixin bumpers in town, thats it.
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# ¿ Sep 15, 2017 17:03 |
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I've got an 91 E32 with an oil gasket leak. It's a slow leak, but it's been there for about 3 months now. No puddles or anything, just circles under the car everyday. I check the oil weekly to make sure it's never short. How long can I let this ride before having to get it repaired? Looking at it from a mechanical standpoint - the leak will obviously get worse over time (slowly), but is that all I need to worry about? It's a long repair that requires an engine lift so I don't really want to get into it until I have to.
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# ¿ Sep 21, 2017 18:00 |
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InitialDave posted:Do you know exactly what it is that's leaking? Oil pan gasket. I'm agreeing with everyone here- probably not a problem long term. It's a normal fix on a car this age (only 130k mi though). Sadly, on this model it requires an engine lift which is a pain in the rear end.
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# ¿ Sep 21, 2017 22:10 |
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Stupid loving question as per the thread title: My BMW specialty shop here in Texas http://mtechnikbmw.com/ did a full inspection of my BMW E32. I have a small, slow, transmission fluid leak. I didn't ask where from, or if I did I forgot the exact location of the leak. This was a couple months ago. Car drives great. If I were to potentially take this in to get a "transmission fluid leaking" problem fixed - just in general because I know this question is vague and stupid - in general, what sort of price comes with repairing this? I know it's hard to give a number because I don't know more about it, to describe what sort of repairs would be needed. But I'm just trying to see if this is like a $200 problem or these problems are usually more like $800 problems....?
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# ¿ Sep 24, 2017 21:31 |
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Yeah it's a 1991 735il. There's hardly even noticeable drops of trans fluid. So like everyone said here, I'll just top it off monthly until it becomes an issue. I've dealt with like every mechanical issue possible except for never having a transmission problem, in any of my cars. So I didn't know wtf. 130k mi. Thing runs like a loving tank. Engine is so reliable.
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# ¿ Sep 25, 2017 21:59 |
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2006 Dodge Durango. Where is the cheapest place online for me to get a fuel pump for this truck?
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# ¿ Jan 26, 2018 05:32 |
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I need to replace the headlight bulbs in my 2006 Dodge Durango. I would like to get some very bright bulbs. Where or what should I look for? I have prime, but I don't know what to search for.
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# ¿ Feb 10, 2018 22:23 |
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Geoj posted:Your Durango uses 9006 bulbs; about 10 years ago some bulb manufacturers started producing halogen infrared bulbs which have a coating on the inside of the bulb that bounces infrared radiation back at the filament resulting in 75% higher lumen output at the same current & voltage. If you can find a pair of 9012 HIR bulbs (they're somewhat rare as the technology didn't really take off) the bases can be modified to fit the 9006 sockets in your headlights, at which point they're physically and optically identical to normal 9006 halogens. This is amazing and my next weekend project. Never did I expect to be able to get that bright. Cheers mate,
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# ¿ Feb 11, 2018 05:26 |
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Got new battery. Put new battery in. Bolt and clip that holds battery in place broke off during removal, so now battery is just waited down by its own 65lbs or whatever. I assume it might still move around while I'm driving or over bumps, etc. When I re-connected the terminals to the post, the positive terminal was a little too small for the post. I got it to stretch over since it's soft lead, and tightened it. SEEMS like everything is hooked up okay, if not a little rigged in some aspects. But technically, I don't see any electrical misconnections. The battery light keeps coming on? I did my google and it seems this sometimes happens after a battery replacement. But it's bothering me, because out of 5 starts, 1 of those is a missed connection and I have to go mess with the battery cables to get it to start. While driving everything is fine, except the RED battery light wont go off. I dont want more issues down the road with this. Any suggestions?
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2018 17:43 |
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ExecuDork posted:
Did this and it fixed the issue. Thanks.
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# ¿ Feb 12, 2018 23:31 |
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How do some trucks have offset wheel positions where the wheel/tire sticks out from under the fender? How do they get them to stick out from the truck like that? Other than the obvious "wide wheel" option, is there something else to it suspension wise?
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# ¿ Feb 15, 2018 18:40 |
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Do you have to buy wider wheels, or can that look be achieved with just wider/bigger tires, and wheel spacers? For example - this is exactly what I'm talking about. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qeo2t4qPPCc
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# ¿ Feb 15, 2018 21:53 |
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I had a similar issue with an older BMW. It required me to find a licensed tax inspector guy in Texas that you hand over all your available paperwork to. He's somehow qualified like a notary to review the paperwork, and make a determination that you now rightfully own the vehicle/scooter. He gives you back a few sheets of paper that qualify you, which you then take down to the DMV. I was certain I would have some trouble from them at the DMV over all this - but surprisingly none at all. They produced a new title for me, and on I went. Sorry I'm not sure if this is much more help then what you already knew!
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# ¿ Feb 18, 2018 01:36 |
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I need someone to re-wire the wiring under my hood. The guy I bought it from did some hack job, and the mechanic who replaced my fuel pump said it looked like a mess in there. Who is someone you look for to fix automotive electronics and wiring specifically? A lot of guys that do it mobile on CL are claiming they dont "install/remove or redo wiring" I guess some liability issue?
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# ¿ Feb 18, 2018 18:03 |
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It's probably not the whole deal. It's primarily the Alternator wiring, and battery wires/plugs for all those things related, that needs the attention.
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# ¿ Feb 18, 2018 18:40 |
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What does it usually mean when your truck is accelerating - and it experiences a few hiccups on its way to 30mph at low speeds? Like I'm slowly giving it gas to get it down the street, but it feels like it just chugs out a few times? Loses acceleration for just a moment... Check engine light also came on after this.
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# ¿ Feb 20, 2018 17:33 |
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The exhaust manifold/header bolt situation is all jacked up. Good possibility this could cause a code to be thrown, right?
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# ¿ Feb 20, 2018 18:21 |
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What is this reverse spoiler on the front of this Explorer's top windshield called?
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2018 02:25 |
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It's really cool. I knew it was a goon's truck from Post your ride, I just couldn't remember whose. Your truck is amazing I love it. It's made it into my Carz photo album which only holds like 20 pics out of the thousands I see. What a sick truck!
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2018 04:37 |
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Going to second the goon above. I'm nowhere near professional about this stuff - but I watched a series of YT vids that describe the plugs you showed as having just basic wear from use.
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# ¿ Feb 21, 2018 14:41 |
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My alternator was causing my CEL's, and various battery light issues. Who can I trust to install my new alternator, and more importantly, Re-do the wiring regarding battery/alternator? Is this a job you can take to your local skilled mechanic, or is this a type of issue you must go to an auto electrician for?
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2018 01:03 |
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How long can a truck drive on a Full battery - but a dead alternator? Couple of days if you're lucky? (Not trying to do this. Just curious)
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# ¿ Feb 22, 2018 17:03 |
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Can confirm. Before the alt died - the battery went out. 150ft from a traffic light, in the middle lane, when it was about 40 degrees out (in texas wtf), and raining. Also - Dodge Durango in the middle row of traffic, so no pushing that. Was fun to have to call the cops on myself. Pretty sure it was illegal - but the young cop just offered to push me THROUGH one of the BUSIEST interesections in town by my back bumper with his grill guard. He told me - "You better ride those brakes hard when we get through the light, and push hard when it gets going downhill fast on the other side" Pretty funny to see everyone at the red light shaking their heads going wtf, as a police cruiser pushes me 150yards with a dead battery through an intersection, over a hill, and down the other side.
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# ¿ Feb 23, 2018 17:50 |
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spog posted:
You can go to your local auto-parts store and pick up some 3M double sided tape. Place it on the bottom of the Fin, get a razor, cut out around the fin's edge. Place back on Saab. Done, in maybe 5 mins for whatever the cost of tape is. 4 bucks? We used to do this at the body shop all the time.
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# ¿ Feb 23, 2018 18:45 |
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spog posted:Would you remove the existing foam from the bodywork first? Yeah, as best you can. That same razor blade you will use to cut the DS tape should work just fine at scraping it off. If not just use a little Goo Gone, or some Iso Alcohol. You don't have to worry about removing the glue left on the fin. The DS tape will cover that anyway. It won't be hard to scrape the foam off.
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# ¿ Feb 23, 2018 21:47 |
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I have to buy a new alternator to be replaced in my truck. I also apparently need the wiring with the alternator replaced. What is this called? Just an alternator wiring harness kit? Amazon didn't give me any results for that on my truck (06 dodge durango). Am I using the wrong search terms?
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# ¿ Feb 24, 2018 14:32 |
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That was going to be my second question - if there was a small issue with this sort of wiring around the alternator - would a capable, qualified mobile mechanic be able to deal with it? I have one coming to the house tomorrow to install the alt. The two red and yellow wires leading out the bottom of the photo are the ones that look to have been soldered, or wired together with other wires/etc. "it looks like bad wiring" is what both mechanics who saw it said, before it eventually died.
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# ¿ Feb 24, 2018 17:40 |
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I just wanted to thank every1 that offers their help to me and other car-newbs with these general problems everyday. I'm learning so much, thank you all. My Isuzu Rodeo is acting mental. It starts and cranks NP. But it's showing strange symptoms after driving for about 5 minutes. The speedometer will start rapidly bouncing down to 0 , then back up to w/e speed I'm driving. The actuall RPM's and the engine don't falter - just the speedo. Simultaneously with this, the radio will cut out, and the headlights will dim, then brighten. First thought is of course alternator and battery. Tested them both - no problems there. What's my next possible culprit here? Speedo sensor just hosed off? But then why would the radio/headlights/interior lights also trip out occasionally with it?
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# ¿ Feb 25, 2018 18:37 |
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Cheers mate. That video cleared everything up for me. I was about to post before "durrr, what does bad ground mean?" but you saved this young padawan. Thank you master auto-jedis, once again.
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# ¿ Feb 25, 2018 20:06 |
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Your BMW is so drat cool. (aside from the hood ornament)
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# ¿ Feb 26, 2018 20:28 |
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The 2006 Dodge Durango I bought off my friend as 230k miles. Most of those are highway miles because he had a 2hr commute to work everyday. Assuming you keep up with regular maintenance, and the miles you put on your vehicle are from normal city driving... How long could a truck like this (4.7L v8) last, potentially? Maybe up to 300K miles? If memory serves me, other than a few exceptions, I don't think most Domestic trucks make it much farther than 300k. mi. right?
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# ¿ Feb 27, 2018 04:31 |
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So, conceivably, you could keep replacing engines and transmissions to keep a truck on the road ? Given that the rest of the car holds up..
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# ¿ Feb 27, 2018 06:26 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 08:18 |
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The Durango I bought has 2 new matching tires up front - one different tire in the rear - and another different tire that's not quite as wide as the others (marginally) Would it be best for me to replace BOTH rear tires, or just the one with the missing width of the others? To get them to match sizes... Or does it even matter really?
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# ¿ Feb 27, 2018 17:28 |