AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

It's worth wiping off the excess to stop it just turning into a spitball of dirt.

# ¿ Feb 11, 2015 22:23

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# ¿ Apr 20, 2024 02:14

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

I don't think any kind of gel system will do a lot of good in a situation where a plug wouldn't work.

# ¿ Feb 14, 2015 19:36

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Normally pretty easy. The mirror is usually screwed on from the inside of the door, the screws being covered by a trim panel (the entire door card may need to come off to get access, it depends on the car). It's the kind of job you can knock out in under an hour if you know where all the clips/fasteners are.

The mirror cost from a dealer may be... significant. Ebay or a junkyard is likely a good option, and if you can find one the right colour in good condition (so it doesn't need paint) so much the better. I'd estimate $50-$70 for a good used one, but you'd need to check.

# ¿ Feb 14, 2015 23:33

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Nuclear Tourist posted:

I know nothing of car detailing. What's a good wax to use for getting rid of those small, shallow scrapes you tend to get from brushing snow off the car? Would this stuff work?

Most likely.

How deep are the scratches? Can you feel them with your fingernail? If not, they should buff out with a kit like that pretty easily. I can also recommend Meguiar's Ultimate Compound for mild scratch removal.

There is a good detailing thread HERE, populated with goons who know their stuff.

# ¿ Feb 15, 2015 18:54

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

IOwnCalculus posted:

Does anyone know of a mid-range gauge that shows two temperatures? I'd like to add at least a transmission temperature gauge to my WJ, and possibly engine oil as well, but I've really only got room for one 2-1/16" gauge. Digital is fine, but all I can find is really sketchy poo poo or really expensive poo poo.

I'm not even married to the idea of it being a 2-1/16" round gauge, I'd be fine with just a couple of rectangular LED displays. But if I can't find something less sketchy for a not-stupid price point, I'll probably just do the transmission temp and be done with it.

I think that cheap double-digital one would work just fine. Alternatively, I've seen double temp gauges from old twin-engine aircraft, but they may not work as well with the WJ's interior aesthetic.

Alternatively, there are people like PLX who do multi-gauge designs that are about midway between those two prices, and seem to be able to do other stuff liek trigger warning lights etc.

InitialDave fucked around with this message at 23:09 on Feb 20, 2015

# ¿ Feb 20, 2015 23:06

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

stump posted:

My fianc�es stupid '05 Vauxhall Corsa C (Holden Barina, Antipodeans) has a stupid handbrake problem, or a stupid Stump problem. Considering GM's track record, and mine, probably a mix of both.

The handbrake was crap*, so I fitted new rear shoes. Handbrake still crap. The auto adjuster perhaps wasn't working, so I tried adjusting it manually. I can only get the handbrake to work OK when it's adjusted so far out the handbrake sticks on.

I reckon either: I'm doing a crap job of adjusting something, or something else needs replaced or lubed, maybe...
-The spring that the handbrake cable sits in doesn't seem very strong, it could be that.
-Replace / Lube adjuster
-The cable runners on the axle were hosed so I removed them, maybe I should get new ones. I should prob get them anyway so the cable doesn't get hosed from rubbing on the axle.

Thoughts?

*I think it's fine, but it needs a two hand yank to hold at the traffic light at the top of our street - it's pretty steep though, like San Francisco steep.

Has the handbrake cable outer maybe become pushed though where it mates at either end, artificially shortening it so it doesn't pull enough?

Are you adjusting the shoes to bring them out to the drum, and adjusting the slack on the cable?

I've never seen the Corsa's handbrake specifically, but that photo looks about what I'd expect.

# ¿ Feb 21, 2015 21:00

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Tomarse posted:

I'm having real trouble changing down into 3rd and 4th in my Toyota Aygo (The same car as a Citroen C1 or Peugeot 107. 1 litre petrol, manual gearbox).

I can get them when stationary or parked, and can change up fine - they just wont go in changing down. From 5th I can move the gearstick into 2nd and can then usually get 3rd or 4th (all in one clutch press), but this is a pain and I lose all my precious speed while doing this. With a 3cyl 68hp engine changing down quickly is essential if you want to keep moving!.

It started as just 3rd that was tricky to get into, but over the last few thousand miles 4th has started doing it too.

The clutch seems to be working fine. Not sure if this is going to be a linkage issue or a gearbox issue?

It uses 2 cables to control the gear change. Have had it all apart and looked at it and nothing looks overly worn or loose.

I'm assuming a good next plan would be to change the gearbox oil and see if it is full of shiny bits? Car has done 105k now, which I guess is probably about the design life of toyota aygo running gear...

Affecting both 3rd and 4th would point to the selector not engaging properly for me, and if it's ok coming from 2nd, but not from 5th, it suggest that there's some one-sided slop somewhere that is preventing everything lining up nicely - not moving far enough across from the right side of the gate for engaging in the centre, but going further left means it's positioned correctly when coming back central. Is it ok if you knock the lever across the left of the gate between 1st and 2nd, without actually engaging them?

How do things work at the gearbox end of the linkage? Is it two seperate levers going into the box, or one lever moved in 2 dimensions? Does there feel like any extra movement to be had if you directly engage them by hand?

Leroy Diplowski posted:

I'm about to go look at a Suzuki sidekick. Auto 4wd. It's one of the few cars that I've never heard much about. I've done a little googling, but I was curious if Anyone here has strong feelings about them one way or the other.

Front diffs don't like abuse.

# ¿ Feb 22, 2015 17:40

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Slavvy posted:

It won't be the gearbox. Have you considered it being a blown engine mount?

That shouldn't affect a cable-shift 'box, though, as the cables outers are normally anchored to a bracket on it, so engine and gearbox movement shouldn't result in any relative movement between inner and outer cables to cause ghost-shifting effects (unless it's a hell of a lot).

I agree it's highly unlikely, but it could be an issue with the lever and mechanism that moves as you go left/right across the gate - a roll pin that's come out of place, or wear in a pivot. Strikes me as an odd thing to happen, though, as in I think I've maybe seen it once on a very old unit that had been taken apart and put back together loads of times for eductation/practice purposes.

# ¿ Feb 22, 2015 18:58

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Chuu posted:

Someone in my family bought a brand new E350 and is so paranoid about scratching it that they're afraid to drive it. Would wrapping it or pastidip be a good idea? Any suggestions on specifics if the goal is protection moreso than getting the color you want?

Well, you could be the people who keep their sofa in a plastic cover so it's in really good condition for the next people who own it... Or just detail it (or have it detailed) properly. Unless you're regularly rallying it or something, normal use isn't going to see it suffer anything that a good going-over every now and then won't get rid of, especially if you're mindful of how you treat the paint with washing etc.

# ¿ Feb 24, 2015 20:15

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

When you say the control arm moving down "like when doing end links", are you jacking up one side at a time? Because that's not such an issue for the damper, but makes your life artificially difficult for stuff relating to the anti-roll bar, as the two sides will fight each other to try and level the suspension. You can much about with trying to restrain the suspension movement somehow, but it's easier to do as Slavvy said and use the jack if you need to, or you may even find it unnecessary if you have both wheels off the ground.

# ¿ Feb 25, 2015 22:34

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Well, closed-cell rather than open-cell foam would be my guess, so it doesn't soak up moisture.

# ¿ Feb 27, 2015 00:15

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

1500quidporsche posted:

Yeah it was more of an example of lifetime fluids not being lifetime fluids. I'm actually surprised they offer lifetime on autos, that really seems sketchy.

If anyone offers you something that they say will last a lifetime, always clarify whose.

# ¿ Feb 27, 2015 20:33

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Getting it really clean and using some superglue has worked once for me... and failed twice.

Yes, you can replace the clamp with a zip tie, but you can buy metal ones like come in many replacement kits.

# ¿ Feb 27, 2015 21:05

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Left-foot braking a FWD car is a pretty drat useful technique.

# ¿ Mar 5, 2015 01:08

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

It's a technique that lends itself very well to balancing a FWD (or certain varieties of AWD) car in less than perfect conditions, including on the road (e.g. damp or dieselly roundabouts). It's not at all necessary, and you can get along just fine without it, but it's a good thing to practice and be able to apply when appropriate. This is totally different to people dragging the brakes or two-footing autos because they don't know any better.

# ¿ Mar 5, 2015 01:31

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

SperginMcBadposter posted:

Can Ford dealerships look up the key cuts for a car based on the VIN? I need to get more copies of the key to my zx2, but they only key I have for it is a beat up non-original.

You likely don't even need to go to the dealer. In my experience, well practiced key cutters can often know what a key should be based on looking at it, which made me go :stare:

the first time one said "Oh, yeah, that's a 123ABC" and cut it from memory after I showed him my original.

Besides, if the worn one you have works in the locks, so would a copy of exactly what it looks like currently, wear and all.

# ¿ Mar 5, 2015 08:08

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Crankit posted:

I have a 2002 Renault Clio 1.4 petrol.

Because it's french poo poo it has an electrical fault, it's a bit weird. When I brake the rear window high brake light thing doesn't light up, and on my dash one of the things that indicates the rear foglights are on illuminates very dimly. The other weird electrical problem I have is sometimes the SERV and airbag lights on my dash illuminate and stay lit, but going around a roundabout fast turns it back off.

Where do I start?

Lights: Check the earths for the rear electrics.

Airbag lights: Duff connectors under the leading edge of the front seat(s), very common fault.

Also, on those Clios, check your bonnet catch, the secondary catch jams, and so if the main catch isn't properly clicked home, it can fly open on you. If you can just lift the bonnet after pulling the main release, without having to pull the secondary release as well, you need to clean and lube it.

# ¿ Mar 16, 2015 19:38

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

OSU_Matthew posted:

What's the best way to get the correct amount of current from the battery to the starter relay (bypassing the ignition switch)?

If you attach a wire to the solenoid's low-current/switch-on terminal, that which is normally connected to the ignition switch's "start" position, and touch it to the positive battery terminal, the starter should crank. If it doesn't, you have a duff starter, solenoid, or main power wiring (the first and last sound unlikely, as you say shorting the starter terminals works).

If it does crank like this, but won't on the key, I'd say duff wiring from the ignition switch, or something like a shifter interlock microswitch or old immobiliser is interfering.

# ¿ Mar 20, 2015 17:53

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

OSU_Matthew posted:

I don't know why that had never occurred to me... I was just under the assumption that the current to trigger the switch in the relay had to be smaller, eg from the ignition switch or something like the fuse panel.

A very oversimplified way of remembering it is that voltage is pushed, current is sucked. In general, if you are applying the right voltage to something, you can't "supply" too much current - it'll take what it needs. On the other hand, if you put a restriction in place (like too small a cable or a really bad connection), it all goes tits up, like trying to drink a thick milkshake through too small a straw (Though milkshakes tend not to catch fire, unless you really ramp up the alcohol content).

All you need to do now is follow the wiring from the fuse panel, to the ignition switch, to the starter, and find out at what point it doesn't give you power when you turn the key to the "start" position. Or say gently caress it and run a wire direct from one to the other.

stump posted:

Sorry for not replying to the answers to my question a while back about the Corsa handbrake, I lost patience and decided to let the garage do it when it gets MOT'd.

On a completely different note I'm going to be hiring a car in Las Vegas for my honeymoon in August to drive LV>Tahoe>SF>LA>LV. What's the best affordable tier of hire to go for to increase my chances of getting something decent?

In the UK is go for Ford Mondeo (Fusion) size, as most cars in that snack bracket aren't terrible. So I was thinking of going for "Ford Fusion or similar", or maybe Fullsize / Premium. Ideally I'm looking for something with a bit of poke (as in sub 9 second to 60, not a corvette), cruise and aux in or Bluetooth audio. Handling and economy aren't as important.

I was thinking about a mustang, but since it'll likely be a last gen base spec v6 for �100 more than a nice sedan I'm not convinced. Also I would stick out like a sore thumb as a goddamn tourist.

Lastly what are the hire companies to avoid / go for? I've always had good experiences with enterprise in the UK.

While it is fun to rent something stereotypically :911:

MURICA

, I wouldn't pay a premium for a Mustang or a Challenger or anything, they're not particularly special to drive in hirecar-spec.

First thing I'd check is if you have what I have, which is the ability to use something like I had, National's Emerald Club at the executive tier - mine is automatic because I work for an American company who obviously give them a lot of business, but it's worth investigating if your company have anything similar, because it means you get free upgrades and faster service. Literally off the airport shuttle, get in whichever car I fancy, drive out the gate.

Consider an SUV. I spent most of my time in the US tooling about in a fully-loaded Expedition, and it was great for rumbling about in. Fuel is cheaper than piss anyway, so the MPG doesn't matter.

Don't worry overly about performance, everything will be auto anyway, and you'll have no trouble keeping up with traffic if you're used to British norms.

# ¿ Mar 22, 2015 18:25

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

JIZZ DENOUEMENT posted:

My check engine light came on, and the places around here charge about $30-$60 bucks to pull the code and see whats wrong. I'm a bit strapped on cash right now. Assuming I'm basically not driving it at all, will it be ok to not get this looked at for a week or two?

What car is it?

There's often a sequence of key turns etc that can make the car display the codes to you.

# ¿ Mar 24, 2015 20:21

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Krakkles posted:

or something else preventatively?

Be single.

Any damage has been done. Just treat it as normal and see if it eats itself, I guess.

# ¿ Apr 2, 2015 22:31

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

SperginMcBadposter posted:

If I want to replace all the bushings in my suspension do I have to buy all new parts? Like right here rockauto has control arms with new bushings, but I can't find a listing for the bushings alone. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1420490&parttype=10401
Pretty much all of the rubber bits in the suspension have some cracks in them and I'd like to replace it.

You don't have to, but it's often no more expensive, and a lot easier. Fitting new bushings can be a pain in the arse in some cases.

# ¿ Apr 5, 2015 20:01

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

DeusExMachinima posted:

Dear motorheads,

I need some more old car porn and don't know where to look. Here's my interest: what are some historical cars similar to the Rolls-Royce Silver Ghost? I loving love its insane look with like 20 headlights and a long hood. It's like something Cruella Deville or Red Skull would drive. What other models should I look for?

Look at this sexy ride.

Duesenbergs.

# ¿ Apr 6, 2015 23:33

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Kvlt! posted:

Sorry if this is the wrong thread, it seemed to be the most accurate one I can find.
I want to start to be able to work on cars - the ultimate goal being to buy an old pickup truck and fix it up.

I have no experience with anything car related- besides driving. Where the hell do I even start?

If you have the space, buy an old pickup truck and start a thread with suitable amounts of "Oh God, what do I do?" :ohdear:

in it. They're pretty simple beasts as far as automotive tech goes. Figure out what's not working, figure out how to make it work, repeat.

What is your experience of other mechanical things? Bicycles, home DIY and so on?

# ¿ Apr 7, 2015 19:25

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

trigonsareNOThomo posted:

Absolute best gas mileage small suv?

Panda 4x4.

In the US? Probably a Suzuki.

# ¿ Apr 10, 2015 21:47

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

I use a large (~4 gallon) plastic oil container from work to put oil in. Drain from the sump into a 99p washing-up bowl, decant it into the large tub, take it to the ~~tip~~recycling centre :jerkbag:

when full.

# ¿ Apr 11, 2015 23:53

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

kid sinister posted:

So the holes for a couple of the trim screws in my truck are stripped. What's the best way to repair a screw hole in sheet metal that's too large? Again this is a trim screw, otherwise I'd just step up a screw size.

Dremel a small slot and use a spire clip?

# ¿ Apr 17, 2015 22:51

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

It's a heat shield for the exhaust. They're a common thing to fail like that on loads of cars, and yes, it's a very annoying reverberation. Can you see any rough holes in it where it's pulled away from its mounting points? A lot of the time, you can just use a large washer at each fastener to get it firmly attached once more, even if it's torn free.

# ¿ Apr 18, 2015 22:06

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Dane posted:

A colleague is translating a text which has the following sentence:

During competition, a car produces around 80 decibels. The distinct whining sound comes primarily from the gearbox (sequential gearing, straight screw drive) and motor.

I'm trying to help her with the 'straight screw drive', but I'm coming up short. Any ideas?

What's the original language and text for "straight screw drive"?

# ¿ Apr 20, 2015 21:23

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

NerdyMcNerdNerd posted:

I recently bought a used car that's in good mechanical shape, but the paint's a little rough. There's a few bare metal patches on the hood and roof, and a little rust, but nothing too serious. Is there anything I can do to take care of it myself? How much can I expect to spend on a professional job, and how do I avoid getting screwed? I've got zero experience with paint and have no idea what to look for.

1) There is always more rust. Find it. Fix it.

2) If the car is worth it, expect to spend a four-figure sum on a full respray. If not, a cheapo spraycan job to cover anything that's lacking in paint will stop it getting any worse.

# ¿ May 3, 2015 13:00

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Ok, this is the random one: What is the width across the widest point of the pan on a TH400 transmission, with/without the vacuum unit attached? And is it "centred" compared to the driveline, or offset to one side?

ilkhan posted:

Basically no fun period.

Whenever anyone in the US mentions California, it always strikes me as some kind of near-parody, Demolition Man anti-utopia. Anything not mandatory is banned. Anything not banned is mandatory. And if the federal government says we're not allowed to impose a regulation that is at odds with federal law, we'll spit out our dummy and find a way to make exactly the same imposition, only in the most awkward and roundabout way possible.

The funny thing is, I don't even doubt that it's that far from the truth.

# ¿ May 4, 2015 10:41

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Motronic posted:

An actual new car?

Yep. You've made your play, push it the full distance.

# ¿ May 4, 2015 18:31

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Raluek posted:

Sadly I can't answer your TH400 question, because I am a scrub who has a TH350. I did find this:

But for some reason it doesn't exactly match their measurements for the low profile pan, so I somewhat question the accuracy of those measurements.

As far as centeredness, the best pictures I can find are these:

That's more information than I had previously, thanks!

# ¿ May 4, 2015 19:38

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

VideoTapir posted:

What is this car? The photo was taken in Japan in 1992.

It's a Marcos.

# ¿ May 5, 2015 17:23

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Motronic posted:

Most likely the loaner they just tried to sell you.

quote:

Good on you for standing your ground and getting what you want.

Ditto.

# ¿ May 5, 2015 19:39

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Butt Wizard posted:

Anyone here have any experience with the Sunny/Pulsar GTIR (RNN14)? Looking at potentially upgrading my daily driver later this year.

No direct experience, but the gearboxes are supposedly the weak link in them.

# ¿ May 8, 2015 15:38

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

The Rolls Royce V8 was first put in a production car in 1959, and you can still buy a Bentley fitted with one.

# ¿ May 10, 2015 23:37

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Parts Kit posted:

I want to paint my wheels on the 87 B2000 since they are old ugly condition chrome dealies, but I am lazy and do not wish to either remove the tires from the wheels nor do the thing with a bajillion 3x5 note cards. Since the tires are old as poo poo and will need to be replaced in the next year anyways is there any reason why I shouldn't just go ahead and scrub the wheels down and paint it as is? Looking ugly until this set is replaced is no big deal, making trouble for whoever gets to do the next tire swap would be a problem.

I bet if you sprayed a rag with some silicone spray, WD40 or whatever, and wiped it around the tyre just before painting, the paint'd not adhere and flake off easily afterwards. May be worth an experiment?

# ¿ May 14, 2015 19:41

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

TKIY posted:

Oh God this is such a stupid question but is there any real value to the paint, leather, rust, etc protection that dealers push?

I know it's not worth what they want to charge for it but it's it worth taking if you can haggle it down?

Is it the kind of thing that's worth having? Yes.

At even post-haggling dealer prices and approach to carryign it out? Almost certainly not in my opinion. If you want it, I suggest a specialist in whatever it is you're after.

# ¿ May 14, 2015 23:33

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# ¿ Apr 20, 2024 02:14

InitialDave: Jun 14, 2007; I Want To Believe.

Parts Kit posted:

Do these things actually do anything other than cost money?

Yes, they also add an obstruction to the intake system.

# ¿ May 17, 2015 00:42

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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