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Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


nitrogen posted:

ok so I have to ask, why won't California Autozones do this?

Hawai'i, too.

I can't find exactly why (i.e. law names, case names, etc), but it boils down to auto parts stores doing for free what mechanics charge money for. Enough mechanics probably complained that it was written into law.

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Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


CharlesM posted:

Yeah, this is the supposed reason, although I wonder if it really mattered because then your readiness state wouldn't be set in the ECU until you complete the proper drive cycles.

The actual reason and the reason the lawmakers understand don't necessarily have to be the same.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


totalnewbie posted:

Is it an Autozone thing or any shop in California, Hawai'i, etc? If it's the former, could just be a regional store policy for whatever stupid liability reason or whatever.

Any shop that would normally scan your codes for free, as far as I know.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Parts Kit posted:

Yeah I remember having seen plenty of posts about cheapie grease guns being infuriating. I think I will give it a shot just for the experience, but I'm still not sure exactly what grease I should be using for this.

Also will the zerk need any kind of cover once everything is finished?

Typically they come with a little rubber boot. If not, I'd buy these: http://www.amazon.com/Grease-Fittin...e/dp/B0040CWX7C

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


candywife posted:

I've got a 2011 Ford Escape
possessed by a lovely ghost

Confirmed.

Do you live in Not California? If so, go to an autoparts store and get them to read the check engine light codes for free. Report back.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


candywife posted:

I fuckin knew it!

I don't live in Not California.
I guess I'm taking it to the mechanics AGAIN tomorrow.
Hopefully something is actually wrong with my car this time so I don't look crazy.

I said auto parts store. Think Advance Auto Parts, Autozone, O'Reilly's, etc. They'll pull the code for free, then you can come back here and tell us what's really wrong with your truck.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Memento posted:

I read this to mean "I do live in California, home of the brave and land of the gently caress no we can't tell you what the codes are from your car, you might try to fix it yourself".

Oh, yeah, whoops. My bad. Good luck, candywife!

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


The Crystal Ship posted:

So, I'm new to living in the north. It recently got into the negatives and so my car is indicating that the tires need to be filled up. My question is should I actually do it? I don't want them to be over inflated once it warms back up. Please advise.

Fill 'em up. Once it gets back consistently above freezing, you can check them again and air them down if need be.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


melon cat posted:

Huzzah! You were both right. All I had to do was open the door, then the panel finally came off. I was keeping it closed because of how cold it is outside.



That's a good idea. I'll do that.

Thanks to all of you guys for your help, on this. It's good to know that I won't have to get totally robbed by the local garage for this type of repair.

I'm laughing with you and maybe just a little at you right now.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


RillAkBea posted:

Are there any good ways to test the performance of a shock absorber off of a car without taking it to get dyno'd or something?

Shove down on one corner of the car with all your weight. The car should come back up, then maybe back down a little, but it should not bounce. If it bounces, that shock is bad.

Repeat for the other three corners.

Wounded Unicorn posted:

Tire shopping theorycraft rubberchat, please chime in with sales pitches/advice/jeering:


For as hard as I drive the car, it doesn't seem worth the extra $100/corner to go for the shorter/wider 225/45s, especially since they all look like the same fitment on a 15x8? I intend to perform some suspension and bodywork in the future when power goals are higher, but tires are where car talks to road, and I have 15x8s to do that for now while it's mild.

If it's gonna save you $400 and you're not autocrossing or w/e, go for the 205s.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


I know about the trick where you use propane to diagnose an evap system leak. Will MAPP (Bernzomatic "Max Power Propylene") work the same way, or am I liable to break something?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Ripoff posted:

Anyone have experience with truck rentals from Penske versus, say U-Haul? The reason I ask is because I have a 670-odd mile move coming up, and I was originally looking to rent from Penske, as I get a 15% discount from them for their truck rental. For a 26' truck this looks to be about $1,600.

The thing is, U-Haul offers a 26' truck for roughly $1,300. This is a huge discount, but I'm concerned right now because I have rented some clapped out as hell U-Hauls that were literally falling apart as I drove them (granted, these were the 13' models). The U-Haul also has a gasser compared to the diesel Penske - I'm guessing the U-Haul probably uses some 6+ liter V8 which they claim gets 10mpg. I'm inclined to believe it'll be a tired, somewhat undersized engine that won't get anything close to that based on my previous experiences with U-Haul. Also, the only other advantage Penske offers over U-Haul is unlimited mileage, but U-Haul gives you 786 miles, which should be plenty.

Anyone rented a 26' U-Haul before? Is it worth $300 more to get a diesel truck to move a bunch of household goods, or would the gasser U-Haul do alright? Anyone have any other rental suggestions (buying and reselling a truck is out, as I am coming from overseas and won't have the ability to buy and register a truck in one day). Any advice is appreciated.

I moved 800-some miles with a 26 foot Penske, and it was an absolute pleasure not too bad. The truck ran very well and came with an aux jack. It was significantly better than all of my one-way U-Haul rentals. Gas was about a hundred bucks a tank, so make sure your credit card is ready.

Also, Penske trucks can be rented from Home Depots, which are typically in better parts of town than U-Haul places.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


100% normal. It looks exceptionally clean.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


stump posted:

Sorry for not replying to the answers to my question a while back about the Corsa handbrake, I lost patience and decided to let the garage do it when it gets MOT'd.

On a completely different note I'm going to be hiring a car in Las Vegas for my honeymoon in August to drive LV>Tahoe>SF>LA>LV. What's the best affordable tier of hire to go for to increase my chances of getting something decent?

In the UK is go for Ford Mondeo (Fusion) size, as most cars in that snack bracket aren't terrible. So I was thinking of going for "Ford Fusion or similar", or maybe Fullsize / Premium. Ideally I'm looking for something with a bit of poke (as in sub 9 second to 60, not a corvette), cruise and aux in or Bluetooth audio. Handling and economy aren't as important.

I was thinking about a mustang, but since it'll likely be a last gen base spec v6 for 100 more than a nice sedan I'm not convinced. Also I would stick out like a sore thumb as a goddamn tourist.

Lastly what are the hire companies to avoid / go for? I've always had good experiences with enterprise in the UK.

I rented a convertible Mustang for a trip out west last year. I think I got a latest-gen, fairly nice v6. It was reasonably quick and fun to drive. I rented through Alamo. It cost me something like $330/week.

Realistically, if you go through any major company (Alamo, Hertz, Budget, Enterprise) and get any car not in the Economy or Subcompact ranges, you'll find something that ticks all your boxes.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


CharlesDexterWard posted:

I've got a 2000 Toyota Celica and seem to be having issues with the car 'tram lining' on uneven roads. I don't really notice it much around town, usually at highway speeds if I go over a bump in the road I can feel the steering wheel move. On really bad roads with divots in the road the steering wheel will pull. It's not like I'm going to lose control but it still doesn't feel right.

There is an intersection in town which I pulled up to the other day though and the steering wheel turned pretty strongly as the road is quite uneven there.

I got my wheels aligned which seemed to help somewhat but not completely, and I also check my tyre inflation regularly to ensure its within spec.

I am going to try to inspect the tie rod ends soon to see if perhaps they need to be replaced. I'm still pretty new to wrenching on my own car so I've just been getting together jack stands and a jack, and waiting for my dad to come visit to give me a hand so I don't screw something up.

What should I be checking for this issue?

I thought this was normal, but then again I drive a farm tractor.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


LingcodKilla posted:

I have a 2013 honda civic coupe.
I need to travel home with it from Florida to California. I have a fair amount of stuff so I was thinking about about getting a roof rack or trailer hitch with platform. Are either of these options terrible or is one better than the other? I was thinking that the roofrack might kill my mileage but the hitch and platform may cause problems because of ground clearance.

How much stuff? A good (e.g. Yakima, Thule) roof rack and a (quality, professionally installed) trailer cost about the same -- $400ish. The big difference is that a roof rack's capacity will top out around 100 lbs (100 exactly per http://installation.yakima.com/) , while the Civic can tow up to 1,100 lbs*.

*Australian specifications. US Civics aren't rated to tow anything, but that's more of a cultural thing than anything. Also, don't tow 1,100 pounds for very long. Maybe 400-500 lbs is the most you'll want to actually try to tow for any kind of distance.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Failing all of the above, smash a window.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


GWBBQ posted:

Thanks! Never would have thought of that on my own but now that I have the new part in my hand it makes perfect sense.

If you already have a Kinect you can get the drivers for it and free/trial software to turn it into a 3d scannner. Probably not worth it otherwise.

No Kinect or even prosumer level 3D scanner is going to be able to scan a little button with near enough accuracy that you'll be able to whip up a replacement super fast. Your best bet is going to be just whipping out some calipers and making some measurements.

That said 3D printing a button is probably way more of a chore than you're estimating.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


InitialDave posted:

If you have the space, buy an old pickup truck and start a thread with suitable amounts of "Oh God, what do I do?" in it. They're pretty simple beasts as far as automotive tech goes. Figure out what's not working, figure out how to make it work, repeat.


If you go this route, take the advice you're given, for god's sake.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Geo Tracker being pushed off a cliff?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


The tires you have now are 195/60R15, so.. that? You could probably get anything from 175 to 205 width on that wheel, and maybe anything from 50-70 aspect?

If you don't have a tire machine, mounting tires is a royal bitch. If you don't have at least tire tools, mounting tires is nigh impossible.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


B4Ctom1 posted:

2009 Subaru Outback 2.5i

I had a lightbar from Primitive Racing on my Outback. http://www.writerguy.com/primitive/lighting.htm

That plus $200 worth of LED lightbar would not be a bad option if you pinky swear that you will not blind oncoming drivers.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Phy posted:

Is there a rust converter paint that can be dabbed on? I've got a number of rock chips that need attention.

Rustoleum, but in cities where spray paint is illegal.

Chicago!

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Black88GTA posted:

Thanks - I figured it was probably something obvious Now to see if anybody around here has any.

I bought a pack of assorted sizes at O'Reilly's a few weeks ago for $5 or so. If you can bring in the original, or a picture of the original so the salesperson knows what you're talking about, all the better.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


I did this.



What's the best way to get it looking semi-reasonable? Unscrew the turn signal and bash the fender straight-ish with a nylon-tipped hammer?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Dane posted:

A colleague is translating a text which has the following sentence:

During competition, a car produces around 80 decibels. The distinct ­whining sound comes primarily from the gearbox (sequential gearing, straight screw drive) and motor.

I'm trying to help her with the 'straight screw drive', but I'm coming up short. Any ideas?

Straight-cut gears?

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Dane posted:

I'm wondering if it could have something to do with something like this http://m.schaeffler.com/content.mob...d/bsd_info.html or this http://www.airoil.com/products/view...-actuators.html

I'll let you know if I find out any more from here. It's driving me nuts.

It *could*, but electronic steering doesn't seem like it would be a major component in a car's noise.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Spopling posted:

I have a Nissan Altima 2003,

I'm wondering if this is compatible with it.

http://www.bestbuy.com/site/jvc-cd-...4&skuId=3945024

Also, for god's sake, if you don't absolutely know it will work, just go to Crutchfield.com and get a kit for your specific car.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Easiest thing to do would be to find a Nissan Altima head unit for a similar year with an aux input, e.g. on ebay (I checked, couldn't find one in under five minutes). Approx cost: $100 (or $250 on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Nissan-2002-2...nissan+aux+jack)

Second easiest thing: Click on this, and enter 2002 Nissan Altima. http://www.crutchfield.com/car/outfitmycar/car.aspx . Then buy this: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_070XR4...20.html?tp=5684 . With the right harness and all the equipment to make it look good semi-ok in your Nissan, it should cost about $75.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


It's not something you'd want to do yourself. If I was in your position, I'd maybe go back to the dealership for free once, and if they manage to gently caress it up again, I'd pay a tire shop to do it right.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


rocket_350 posted:

I've never let it count all the way down, it would probably be over 10000 miles if I did.

Modern oils in modern engines are capable of lasting into the 12K-15K mile range. You can go with your gut (because you aren't hurting anything), or you can get used oil analysis from Blackstone Labs and see what they say.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


The only people who complain about California are people who live there (and Republicans, and truckers). It's an absolutely beautiful state and I can understand why anyone would want to live there.

edit: Versus loving Alabama, California is a shining utopia.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


I bought a new car that had about 200 miles on it once, from being shuttled back and forth between dealerships in two different states.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


BrokenKnucklez posted:

That does work.


Dumb question - If I need to adapt a 21 spine adapter to say a 30 spline with different input shaft sizing on both sizes.... can a machine shop work something up like that? This is purely hypothetical.

If you've got the money, a machine shop will do whatever you want.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Manslaughter posted:

I found a RWD used Ford Ranger I am interested in buying, but I live in the frozen north and have never driven a RWD vehicle before. Terrible idea?

Nope. Get good winter tires, keep a hundred pounds or so of sand in the bed (in bags) during the winter, and go slow until you get the hang of it.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Elendil004 posted:

I have a 2015 Honda Fit EX, and a Samsung Galaxy S5 . I upgraded to lollipop and now whenever I stick my phone on the usb in the car (from either usb port) it pops up that it's connected via mirrorlink. Only the Fit doesn't support mirrorlink, so my phone becomes useless. I have to unplug it to do anything.

My phone is apparently impossible to root (or some poo poo, that's not my area of expertise, I Tried two online guides and both failed)...so is there any loving way to turn off mirrorlink on the car end? Disable the USB from trying to do anything other than provide power? Actually remove the loving worthless bloatware app from my phone?

Or purchase / make a USB condom. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_n...ords=usb+condom

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Elendil004 posted:

Neat, Are any of these more or less reputable? I've heard horror stories of random third party chargers melting and poo poo.

They're dead simple. It doesn't _do_ anything, it just prevents your car from realizing there's a phone there. Their intended use is preventing malicious people from stealing your phone's data / putting viruses on your phone if you use an untrusted charging port, e.g. one of those charging kiosks at the airport.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


Elendil004 posted:

Per thread recommendations on getting my 2015 Fit to stop trying to connect to my smartphone (which causes lag when playing music and renders the screen inoperable), I tired a usb condom. That works for about 5 minutes then I get an error on the car screen "there is a problem with the usb connected device see owners manual"which doesn't help.

Could the car not be providing at least 1A of power to the usb ports?

Whoops, sorry, I figured that would just work.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


JacquelineDempsey posted:

Kimchi: my 2005 Kia Optima, V6, low miles (54k, inherited her from my mom, the proverbial granny who only drove it to church) but Kimchi used to live in upstate NY so she's got some significant undercarriage rust from the salt on the roads. She started making noises a few months back, and a friend correctly diagnosed low steering fluid. I've been topping it off as needed, but never noticed any leaks on my driveway.

Yesterday, out of nowhere, Kimchi starts screaming the same noise she made when I first found out about the steering fluid leak. Sure enough, it's low, no problem, I limp her up to the Autozone a mile away and buy more fluid. Add fluid, start her up to get some in circulation, and she's still screaming. I look underneath, and poo poo's dripping out like mad. Tried to take her around the block on a test, and completely lost power steering.

If it's just a hose, I can probably do that myself. But I've been looking up other forums' posts, and apparently I could potentially fry the pump if it's not getting fluid? How do I find where the leak is without causing more damage?

Clean everything really well with degreaser, add more fluid, run the car for a few minutes, and see where it's leaking from. You very well might be looking at a new power steering pump, especially if you're noticing power steering fluid being slung all over your engine bay.

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Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!


a primate posted:

I have zero tools and no access to a garage so I'm afraid I'm at the mercy of the licensed for now.

In that case, find a small garage (i.e. privately owned, somewhere in between dealer and Miadis) and get them to do it for you. It's pretty rude to to buy your own parts and ask a professional to install them; just let them do their thing.

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