AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Hi folks, I bought an �04 GMC Savana 1500 AWD van with two rows of seats. I�m going to take out the rear row and put up a plywood wall and put motorcycles in the back. That�s really just background though. What I need help with is removing the back half of the seat rails.

The seat rails look like this.

Sort of two Us one on top of the other. I cut through the top one and cut off the pin holding them together and then tried to pry the top one off and it just won�t budge. It�s definitely cut all the way through with nothing else I can see holding it on.

Do folks know if they�re welded together or have any other thoughts?

New plan is to go get a huge angle grinder and cut all the way forward but I�m in NYC with no garage and a small apartment so it�s all happening on the street and any plan that involves �use a tool that is big� is a pain in the rear end.

# ¿ Jan 15, 2018 03:00

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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 07:03

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Goober Peas posted:

The seat rails are two U's welded together and contain internal bolts to mount the rails to the floor of the van. There are nuts on the underside of the van to remove the rails. The pins you removed are to hold the two U's together for welding - removing them after they've been welded is not going to be helpful.

Two options - open the upper U with an angle grinder, then grind off the head of the bolts (pain in the rear end) or crawl underneath the van and remove the bolts (also a pain in the rear end).

Neither option is easy or quick, doubly so in NYC in the middle of winter.

That�s what I was afraid of, thank you very much.

E: is this a thing a body shop would just lop the top off for me (without blasting a bunch of holes in the floor)? I just need it flat for mounting the bike anchors.

builds character fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Jan 15, 2018

# ¿ Jan 15, 2018 13:22

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Goober Peas posted:

The body shop would likely just remove the rails from the underside. They have the tools and equipment, and it shouldn't take more than an hour of labor. The other option would be to leave the rails and build the floor up and/or use the rails to mount a second floor to.

Good to know, thank you.

I would, but the motorcycles are dirt bikes so pretty tall and building up the floor would necessitate tearing off the roof and putting on a high top fiberglass roof which, well, slightly more work?

# ¿ Jan 16, 2018 00:40

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

rdb posted:

The more a battery is discharged the more water it contains making it freeze at higher temperatures. In this case I would suggest removing the battery from the truck and storing it inside if you plan on leaving it again. For a battery to drain over 6 weeks is not ideal but hardly an alarming amount of parasitic drain and you may not find a culprit. Overnight or every couple days is a problem.

Have folks used the solar battery tenders out there (for those that don't have things like "garages" with "outlets" to plug into at night) and any recommendations/thoughts on those? Seems like they could be a decent solution to leaving a battery out in the cold all winter if you're only driving every six weeks.

# ¿ Jan 23, 2018 18:33

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Ethics_Gradient posted:

Question about tongue weight ratings:

One thing I'm thinking about for my next car is the ability to mount a motorcycle carrier. Nothing crazy, thinking a 125cc that would weigh around ~120kg/265lbs.

Is it basically just "find a Class II or III hitch for this make/model"? Or does the vehicle itself factor much into considerations for it? The smallest thing I'd be looking at is something like an AWD Corolla wagon or something like that, though ideally it'd be a van.

I'm not saying this is the case, but given how often counterfeit stuff winds up on Amazon, your shop is not necessarily in the wrong for not using them even though they are cheapest.

Class III at least, I think. I�ve used a hitch hauler on a crv, I wouldn�t carry anything heavier than a dirt bike on it. Maybe 275lbs. Your other issue is going to be the rear springs will be compressed if you�re driving anywhere rough.

# ¿ Jan 26, 2018 17:32

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Ethics_Gradient posted:

Thanks guys! Could have been more clear since this isn't CA -- by motorcycle carrier I don't mean a trailer (which would be nice, but I have nowhere secure I could store one) but one of those rails with a little ramp that fits on to a tow hitch.

Class III it is, then.

I am definitely not looking to put more than a 125 on there, so that should be OK. The idea is to get a car that's very road-oriented and use it for longer trips, and use the bike for exploring more gnarly roads/as a runabout once camp has been set up.

This one is the best for the cheapest. Also, get a fork saver so you can really crank down your tie downs without blowing you fork seals. And one of these and you�re set. https://www.ebay.com/i/112299858155

# ¿ Jan 27, 2018 05:25

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

bawfuls posted:

What is the cover-your-rear end procedure for buying a car with a lost title? Further complication, car is in CA where I am but appears to have last been registered in OR.

$93 and five weeks. This shouldn�t be your problem. https://www.dmv.org/or-oregon/replacing-a-lost-title.php

E: oregon dmv link http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/DMV/docs/trorreplonly.pdf

# ¿ Feb 6, 2018 01:32

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

tangy yet delightful posted:

On a similar note. What about bright bulbs for a 2012 Impreza? I don't want to mess with HIDs and I want to make sure the stock reflectors still work properly with whatever bulbs I buy. Do I just look for bulbs to fit my car and aim for the highest lumen option?

Geoj posted:

Unless there's an optically similar bulb that fits in your headlights and has higher output options are limited. Blue coated bulbs like silverstars are largely snake oil, and overdriven bulbs are made by sketchy manufacturers and can overheat/melt factory harnesses and housings.

You can get premium OE bulbs from European manufacturers/brands - GE Nighthawk, Narva Rangepower or Phillips Vision Plus, which will typically be at the high end of a given bulb's output specification, but you'll only be looking at a 5-10% output increase over the bulbs the car came with.

Sure, sure, or... https://www.rallyinnovations.com/collections/rally-light-bar and https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=sY6KTPJNwQo

# ¿ Feb 11, 2018 14:38

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Back for another stupid question on my motovan build. Last time I was asking about removing the seat railings (a job 0 bodyshops are interested in, fwiw). Fortunately, I've decided to weld one side of the bike mounts to the seat railings as that should provide a pretty sturdy mount and then I can use some steel spacers down to the van floor where I can bolt through and just use bolts + huge washers. Second, a new problem has cropped up. To refresh, this is an '04 AWD savana with 165k miles on a 5.3 v8.

Symptoms
Whenever I put gas in it, it cranks and doesn't want to start. If it does start, it dies immediately. I can get it to stay running by giving it gas, but if I stop giving it gas it dies immediately. The idle isn't particularly rough when it's trying to die and I'm giving it gas. If I'm fast, I can rev to keep it running, stop revving, put it in gear, rev again to stop it from dying, but then it tries to die, revs and sort of slams into gear which, frankly, sounds like a pretty dumb thing for me to do more than once. If I rev it a bit and don't let it die, then after maybe a minute it's fine. I can start it normally 100% of the time and can turn it off after it's been running anywhere from two seconds to two hours and it will start with no break or with a 2-5 minute break (roughly the equivalent of how long it takes to fill up with gas) with no issues so I'm assuming it's not some sensor related to hot starts.

Has anyone heard of something like this/have advice? I am currently assuming it is the fuel pump and that I should test to make sure it's putting out appropriate pressure, but wanted to see if anyone had any ideas before doing that. There are no check engine lights/OBDII codes.

Here you can see the eventual plan sort of shaping up. That cardboard is for mocking up the wall I'm going to put right behind the seat. One bike on the left, one bike on the right and then a little bike in between (maybe facing the other way).

# ¿ Feb 12, 2018 19:37

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

I had a nearly identical problem on my car (just not as severe), and it wound up being the EVAP purge solenoid. And somehow the purge solenoid on the Ecotec 2.2 is also shared with a huge chunk of the mid 00s to mid 2010s GM lineup (including some 5.3s). My symptoms were less severe, but anytime I put gas in, it was hard to start, sputtered a bit, and would belch a nice cloud of black smoke from the exhaust if I managed to keep it running. If I let it die, it would usually fire right back up and run a little rough for a moment, then run fine. Only after getting gas. It always fires up relatively easily any other time (it has an occasional hard start where the starter cranks for 3-4 seconds before it fires, but it's been doing that for 5 years and hasn't gotten past "minor annoyance").

It's a pretty cheap part ($21 on Amazon for the OEM part, cheaper than any of the aftermarket brands - double check to make sure that fits though, use Rockauto to look up the part number) and easy to replace, though admittedly my car was also throwing a "evap purge flow when not expected" code (and an occasional "MAF out of expected range" code that hasn't come back since replacing the solenoid), so that really helped narrow the troubleshooting. On my car it sits right on the intake manifold, though you should use a GM fuel filter quick release tool on it (I managed to do it without one, not the best idea).

Not saying this is definitely the problem, but that little bastard is probably playing a role in it, and it's cheap enough (and easy enough) to change that it's worth trying as a fix.

That's interesting, thank you. I passed emissions without the evap stuff checking out which I paid maybe less attention to than I should have because it wasn't throwing codes, it says it takes a couple of drives in not-freezing weather for the whole system to check itself out and I'd just replaced the battery, but as I recall there was a nice little question mark next to the evap something which I had assumed meant "hey, this just hasn't finished running its check yet but it's too cold and you never drive this so just ignore it and everything will be fine."

# ¿ Feb 13, 2018 17:41

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

I had a nearly identical problem on my car (just not as severe), and it wound up being the EVAP purge solenoid. And somehow the purge solenoid on the Ecotec 2.2 is also shared with a huge chunk of the mid 00s to mid 2010s GM lineup (including some 5.3s). My symptoms were less severe, but anytime I put gas in, it was hard to start, sputtered a bit, and would belch a nice cloud of black smoke from the exhaust if I managed to keep it running. If I let it die, it would usually fire right back up and run a little rough for a moment, then run fine. Only after getting gas. It always fires up relatively easily any other time (it has an occasional hard start where the starter cranks for 3-4 seconds before it fires, but it's been doing that for 5 years and hasn't gotten past "minor annoyance").

It's a pretty cheap part ($21 on Amazon for the OEM part, cheaper than any of the aftermarket brands - double check to make sure that fits though, use Rockauto to look up the part number) and easy to replace, though admittedly my car was also throwing a "evap purge flow when not expected" code (and an occasional "MAF out of expected range" code that hasn't come back since replacing the solenoid), so that really helped narrow the troubleshooting. On my car it sits right on the intake manifold, though you should use a GM fuel filter quick release tool on it (I managed to do it without one, not the best idea).

Not saying this is definitely the problem, but that little bastard is probably playing a role in it, and it's cheap enough (and easy enough) to change that it's worth trying as a fix.

Replaced this and was able to easily blow through the old one (default position should be closed) so it was definitely bad. Will find out if that was the entirety of the problem on Friday when I next drive it for a while. Thanks! If you're ever in NY I owe you a beer (or two, or three...).

# ¿ Feb 20, 2018 17:00

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

DesperateDan posted:

awd

I cleared my way in and access up to it isn't too bad at all- enough room to manoeuvre now the coolant is out of the way, its just seeing it and getting the right angle at the same time is tricky. Having lunch then I'm going to cobble something to reach it or order an extention the right size in the smaller drive size, and probably duct tape my inspection mirror in place

Those youtube vids of mechanics doing it lazily in a few minutes make me envious but I guess this is how I learn

There is one phrase in any mechanic�s YouTube video that should strike terror into your heart. �One smooth motion.� Translated, it means �lol, you�re ducked if you haven�t done this a thousand times before. Hope you enjoy pain and failure.�

Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:

Chances of me ever being in NY are roughly 0.1% . But I'm glad you were able to swap it. Mine was the same way when I pulled the old one, could blow right through it. I'd also been smelling gas from the front of the car every time I filled up for over a year. It's a stupid easy part to swap (aside from getting the old one off of the mounting bracket, that took a few minutes to figure out until I just said gently caress it and unbolted the bracket), and cheap, if it's the same part mine uses

Offers still there. And yeah it was very easy except for figuring out how to undo the mounting bolt that was behind it. Why would you put that behind where I can�t reach and there�s no room for a wrench? Funnily enough, I�m now replacing plugs, wires and coils and I�m having similar issues getting the plugs out.

# ¿ Feb 21, 2018 15:39

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

IOwnCalculus posted:

I doubt it would hold at all. I was going to maybe suggest self-sealing rubber tape, but then I realized I was thinking 4.5 psi, not 4.5 bar. I don't think any tape will work.

Maybe this stuff? https://www.amazon.com/Proxicast-Pro-Grade-Weatherproof-Self-Fusing-Electrical/dp/B00K5GW67O/

# ¿ Feb 24, 2018 06:55

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Javid posted:

More Ram van fun:

1: I seem to have a shy engine code. I'll get a CEL, but when I do the key voodoo to get it to blink a code at me, it goes away. Can I assume it's not super important? I hate to be the guy driving around with a CEL forever but it's not cooperating. (I have repeated this process a few times now)

2: PO replaced the entire exhaust and omitted the cat(s). My state doesn't care, is this a legal issue if I drive into, say, California?

3: I have a ton of electrical/wiring questions for the conversion work I'm going to do on it, is there a better thread for that than this one?

2. It is not.

# ¿ Mar 23, 2018 00:24

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Senor P. posted:

So... l am thinking about buying a truck for hauling cars around and possibly a trailer. (No 5th wheel, probably travel trailer.)

I am looking at a used diesel in the neighborhood of around 15k. (2002-2003 7.3, or possibly a 2006-2007 6.0.)

But I have been thinking about the gas F-150s. They cost about half as much.

As cool are diesel's are it seems like the folks I know who own one are constantly having to have work down on them.

https://www.fleet.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/towingguides/2002_All.pdf

Does AI have any insight to offer?
(A 5000lb car plus a 2000lb trailer would probably be getting close to maxing out an F-150 I imagine.)

What do the AI regulars use for hauling? Always an automatic or does anyone have a low geared/high ratio manual?

Diesel van?

You can get a used 3500 express in decent shape for pretty cheap.

# ¿ Mar 27, 2018 02:29

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Senor P. posted:

Hmmm you are right they are pretty cheap. But how difficult are those 5 cylinder engines to maintain?

I don�t know nothing about diesels. According to my uncle who ~~works at nintendo~~is a mechanic, they�re good but I really have no idea.

E: if you�re in a big city you can usually find a shop that services all the plumber and glass guys vans for a lot cheaper than you might otherwise.

# ¿ Mar 27, 2018 02:44

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Javid posted:

Thanks. I'm just gonna make Schwab look at it at this point, and then fix it myself.

Two more van questions:

1: the rear door leaks. I wanna just replace the rubber seal first, but the only ones I can find for sale are for the front doors. Is "rear door" the wrong term to be using or does nobody in the universe sell these things? I don't want a junkyard one that's probably as bad or worse than the one I have.

2: curb weight on this tub (per google) is 5300 lbs. Can a 2 ton jack lift one end of it? I have no idea how the weight is distributed, though I plan to roll it across a scale eventually.

2. - I can easily jack up one end of my savana 1500 with a 2 ton jack from HF but use jackstands because I don't want to die. Even if the weight distribution is silly (I think it's forward if the van is empty), it's still not going to be more than 4/5 on only one half.

# ¿ Apr 18, 2018 20:38

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Less of a "hey guys, I'm going to have to resort to eating badgers if this doesn't work" question...

Background: I am (still) rigging up a 2004 GMC Savana 1500 to hold motorcycles. I want to install these

to hold three bikes and to do that I am planning on drilling through the floor and bolting them down using big washers so the stress is more distributed. To do that, I will need to drop the gas tank so that I don't end up drilling a bunch of holes in the gas tank which, I think, would be bad.

Now to my question. While the gas tank is dropped, should I also replace the fuel pump? The 04 savana doesn't have a separate fuel filter and this one has 165k miles on it so if it did I would have replaced the fuel filter. I have to assume the prior owner never replaced it and it seems like relatively cheap and easy preventative maintenance as long as I'm dropping the tank already.

Does that make sense? Am I being stupid?

# ¿ Apr 19, 2018 15:53

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

shy boy from chess club posted:

Definitely replace it. It will break 2 weeks after you put the tank back in.

Truer words. Thanks for the sanity check.

BattleCattle posted:

Signed up for triple A. Looking forward to not being betrayed again!

In other news, I found a (sorta kinda) solution. I called the GM dealership in Laramie, and they offered to send a fella to pick me up. I figure I'll buy another truck, and even if I don't, I can at least buy the parts and bring 'em home. Without the new truck, though, the bringing-'em-home part could be tedious.

Also, I've been rude, where are my manners? Here's some pictures.

Gonna stop hogging the thread now. Thanks for the help, fellas.

That looks so nice. Want some pictures of NYC garbage piles?

# ¿ Apr 19, 2018 22:04

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Breakfast Feud posted:

RE: van dwelling chat

As much as HiAces/LiteAces/Delicas are rad and tempting, keep in mind parts for these can be hard to find or expensive. Even a Vanagon/Westfalia can be a bit of a bitch to find parts for in the middle of Buttfuck, Nowhere. I helped a buddy buy a van last year because he was going to drive across the U.S and do his freelance work at the same time. I kept trying to steer him towards a good GM option because no matter where you're going to go there are going to be parts and people familiar with the vehicle. What you're going to spend on gas money on the larger motor you'll make up for in parts. Anyway, he spent his entire budget on a very used Westy, opted not to change the fluids before he left (against my advice) and by the grace of God the loving thing didn't poo poo itself until he made it down to Portland where he sold it for more than he bought it for.

Can confirm - I opted for a cheap gmc Savana 1500 for stealth moto van and worst case you can buy anything you need for it on amazon and have it shipped to wherever you are. For 10k you can get a pretty nice used Savana/express with AWD. The people on https://expeditionportal.com are sort of insane, but a great resource for various options. Just don�t get too sucked in because, at least with my van, you could easily just buy a foam pad/inflatable mattress and a nice sleeping bag and be done with it.

# ¿ Apr 26, 2018 13:24

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Nyyen posted:

Thanks for all the info so far. To be honest, I'm not interested in living out of the vehicle long term, so all this Vanlife chat is lost on me. I was thinking just a vehicle I could haul my stuff on one side and lay down a sleeping bag on the other when I'm going long distance. Vans seemed like a good option, but even now looking at the mileage I'm balking. I was only really expecting about 4 major, multi-day trips every year.

Looking at the costs of Transits, their mileage, and everything else, the GMC line does seem to be better cost wise. Are they also a pain to maintain due to the fleet maintenance things mentioned by Metal Geir? I hate the idea, but would a minivan or something else be a better fit for someone who is going to use the vehicle as a daily driver more than a place to sleep and long term hauler?

Looking at the Transit Connect and the Dodge Promaster, they both sound like something that would work fine for what I need, would be a bit smaller and easier to handle day to day, and get quite good mileage.

Also look at the mercedes metris - I have a friend who went into a dealership just looking and ended up buying one for way less than retail and he really likes it.

# ¿ Apr 26, 2018 15:11

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Nyyen posted:

Ok, so looking back at my posts, I have no idea what I need or even want.

Space to haul myself and stuff long distances.
Decent cargo capacity, but not huge.
Ability to tow is very welcome.
4x4 very welcome.
CHEAP, both in gas cost and initial purchase price.
I could spend 20k but I'd rather not right now, the NPS is going through some changes that might keep me from making good money for a time.

Looking at that, some kind of light pickup with a lid or a minivan seem to be the best options right?

# ¿ Apr 26, 2018 17:12

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

STR posted:

Let's talk adhesive remover.

Whoever had this car before me didn't realize the clogged sunroof drains were causing the interior leaks; instead they put tape over the side rails of the roof, plus the top of the windshield and back window. Sunroof is unclogged now; no leaks inside.

I've tried "Oops!", with a pretty rough old bath towel, and it really didn't remove much (that poo poo will normally take anything off of anything, and carries defatting warnings). Any suggestions? The paint's a 50 ft job at best (original, but chipped and peeling; thankfully the plastic body under it is the same color). It looks like it had duct tape for a year or two on it.

Gas?

# ¿ Apr 27, 2018 16:58

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

You might try something like this for that cable. https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0182

# ¿ May 3, 2018 12:20

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Don�t suppose you know anyone with an air hammer?

# ¿ Jun 6, 2018 13:05

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Tim Raines IRL posted:

I have a 2015 forester with a factory tow hitch. I put a 2" ball on it. I need to move a motorcycle with some regularity, and potentially a mower sometimes, or random loads of lumber/etc.

I am looking at going and buying this trailer: https://vermont.craigslist.org/tro/d/4-8-utility-trailer/6572975475.html

It's been for sale for a while and I have talked the seller down a bit. This looks much sturdier than a lot of other trailers I have seen for cheaper around here. Seller confirmed it's a 2" ball.

I've never towed anything; if I go and look at this today and it looks good, then I will probably buy it, and need to drive it ~40 miles back home, of which ~10 will be highway, 20 will be 2-lane 50mph and 10 will be twisty rear end 30mph dirt roads.

Besides "remember not to back up", does anyone have anything I should read or whatnot before I just go attach this to my car? (even with the bike on it I'm going to be wayyyy under the tow-limit on the forester; I think the trailer weighs ~300lbs, and my bike ways another 350.)

and remember it'll take longer to stop.

# ¿ Jun 12, 2018 20:19

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

More van questions, although this is a different van.

Background: '04 GMC Savana, 166k miles (stealth moto van! which is working out great so far actually). I bought this and replaced a bunch of stuff on it because I make bad decisions and don't understand the concept of sunk costs. All the stuff below made the engine run gloriously smoothly for a wonderful, albeit brief, period. Not so much anymore.

Previously Replaced: coils, plug, wires. MAP sensor. 02 sensor. IAC controller. Fuel injectors cleaned.

Current issue: I'm getting intermittent P0307 (cylinder 7 misfire) and P0300 (random cylinder misfire) codes. Happens sometimes when I start from cold, sometimes when I start from hot. It goes in and out at what seems like random. When it's off, the engine is super smooth and sounds great. It's a little rough but not too bad when the CEL is on, and doesn't really seem down on power at all but who really knows.

My guesses: Based on the fact that the coils etc are all new and it's intermittent, I'm guessing this is a fuel pump on its way out with a filter full of junk issue. I have been meaning to drop the tank and replace the fuel pump, which includes the only fuel filter, but my jack stands are not tall enough for me to crawl around under there in NYC streets. I think it could also be a MAF sensor, from what I've read? I think it's unlikely something in the engine is totally broken as it runs super smoothly when the CEL isn't on.

Question: what are next steps in diagnosis? Any ideas on what it is or how to fix it? I have the deluxe HF freight tool (only the best!) so maybe there are some things I can check on. I could pay for someone to diagnose and fix it, but I like solving problems myself and playing mechanic so ideally someone here will tell me exactly what to do to confirm your idea on what's wrong is correct so I can figure out how to fix it.

# ¿ Jun 18, 2018 18:22

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Otis Reddit posted:

If I buy a CPO car in Virginia or NC, pay sales tax there, and then drive to NYS. How does that work. Do I pay sales tax twice?

Yes, although if you can prove you are a NY resident (like by providing a license) I don't think that Virginia or NC should not charge you sales tax. From here https://www.tax.ny.gov/pdf/current_forms/st/dtf804.pdf the only states whose taxes count are:

Arizona
California
Florida
Hawaii
Massachusetts
Michigan
South Carolina
Wyoming

# ¿ Jun 19, 2018 23:24

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

STR posted:

So my own question, and one that may be a bit beyond what anyone here can give a good answer to.

GM's oil life monitoring system is supposed to be pretty accurate, right?

For background, I'm part courier, part glorified pizza guy, part "spends 8-10 hours a day in the car". So during slower parts of the day, I will absolutely find a tree to park under, turn on the ac, set an alarm, crank my phone up, and pass out for awhile (if it's winter, I'll actually turn the car off and keep a blanket with me, but it's hot as gently caress in TX for 9 months out of the year). I'm in the car so long every day that I have to either get naps now and then, or snort caffeine, coke, meth, etc. A nap is a lot healthier.

This is an 06 Saturn Ion. I'm guessing the OLM is the same as used in the 03 Ion (as the electronics, outside of the PCM, don't seem to have changed at all during the entire run of the Ion).

I'm more just wondering if the OLM on this car (let's just call it an 03, in case they didn't update the logic later), can account for extended idling. I run Mobil 1 Synthetic High Mileage, and generally run an AC Delco filter. It doesn't seem to suggest an oil change any sooner vs just driving, but I have no idea how much wear extended idling (with a warm engine) puts on things.

On my old car (same year/make/model/engine), I did send samples to Blackstone, and they said the engine appeared healthy, but always noted elevated silica levels (.... turns out it had a blown head gasket when I got rid of it, maybe that's why?). I've yet to do an oil analysis on this one. I always went by the OLM recommended changes (which was anywhere from 8k-10k).

tl;dr just wondering how accurate early 00s GM OLM is. I'm already up to 5k on this oil change. Since I drive so much, keeping oil changes minimized will help my wallet, but the last car had picked up a smoking habit when cold, and had an occasional sticky valve, when it got written off.

tl;dr2: I bought the old car with 60k, totaled with about 205k. It had been smoking on a cold start for a little bit, and the sticky valve on a cold start was a once every couple of months thing. It wasn't too pretty under the valve cover. Don't plan to keep this one as long, but i'd rather make sure it doesn't take up smoking or sticky valves.

Isn't idling at warm basically the easiest thing you can do to it?

From this article/post it looks like they generally take idling into account. https://blog.amsoil.com/oil-life-monitors-everything-you-need-to-know/

# ¿ Jun 21, 2018 17:59

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

STR posted:

I appreciate that, I really do, but at the moment, the drums are very, very much attached to the hubs. That's the issue I'm trying to deal with at the moment. Once I get the drums broken free from the hubs, I'll go from there.

FWIW, I pulled apart the rear brakes on my last car - the same year, make, and model car, with a lot more miles, and assuming the rear brakes had never been touched (even if they had, I had put 120k on it myself, in addition to the 60k it had when I bought it.. this car only has 140k total) - and didn't have to do anything except whack them a few times to break them free from the hub. No grooves, though the shoes were pretty close to done. They still dragged slightly, as they should, when spun by hand.

I doubt the ~~womanly parts that kinda scare me~~ self adjuster will cooperate, given how far out of adjustment they are - I have a feeling that if I can break the drums free, and they get hung up, I'll be cutting the retaining hardware to free everything, at which point it turns into a "replace everything except the wheel bearing" job. If I can't break them loose, then it'll be "unbolt wheel bearing, cut retaining hardware, replace everything except the backing plate". I'm just hoping that "break drums loose from hubs, slide off" will be an option. It's been an option for most of the cars I've owned.

Did they leave it empty, full of water, or full of flush?

I'm guessing full of water or flush since it popped a freeze plug, I'd expect to need to replace all of the freeze plugs (maybe they were rusty, maybe they had water behind them and froze, either way, once one goes, the rest aren't far behind). Beyond that it'll probably just be a water pump job.

Isn�t the answer to this some sturdy jack stands and then kick it off?

# ¿ Jun 26, 2018 12:20

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Nitrile gloves or bust. I like the orange ones with the little dimples.

# ¿ Jun 27, 2018 14:29

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Pham Nuwen posted:

My 85 Jeep needs a catalytic converter. Do California-certified cats typically work better than 49-state cats? I'm in New Mexico so I could use 49-state, but I'm looking at https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C565U6G which seems like a pretty reasonable price if it'll do a better job cleaning the exhaust.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IXWVHQcYqms

# ¿ Jul 6, 2018 18:56

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Pham Nuwen posted:

Ok, so looks like longer life and it's been subjected to more tests. Might go with it, but after getting under the Jeep I find that the front section of the exhaust is 1 7/8" OD, while that cat is 2" ID. I was planning to have a shop weld it in; is that small difference something they'll be able to handle easily, or do I want to get something like https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-7-8-1-875-ID-to-2-OD-Universal-Exhaust-Pipe-to-Component-Adapter-Reducer/171153687847 to bring in with it?

Shop should be able to deal with it. If they're being lazy or are a bad shop then they might be a pain about it.

# ¿ Jul 6, 2018 21:28

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Uthor posted:

My VW uses pink coolant. What does one need to drink so their urine can be used in a VW?

Ton of beet juice.

# ¿ Jul 11, 2018 17:40

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

ExecuDork posted:

My 97 Ranger is currently at the mechanic's because it's misfiring and I'm planning to drive it ~3000km starting Sunday. They called me: "Good news! It's not misfiring, it was just bad gas!"

No. When the problem doesn't show itself to the mech on the test-drive, it's not good news. It means the problem - it was absolutely misfiring on the drive over to give it to you to fix - is just a bit harder to diagnose. Also, these misfires are not showing up as a CEL or a code, which tells me there's a problem with my truck's OBDII on-board system but I can deal with that later. What I want is a set of new spark plugs, and new wires if needed, but I understand completely that you'd want to experience the problem yourself.

I convinced him to take it for another test drive, hopefully the demon that lives in my engine wakes up for him.

Stupid question: is there such a thing as bad gas anymore? We haven't been filling it from Bob's Gas N' Smokes, it's always big, busy brand-name gas stations on highways or in cities. I was under the impression the fuel at Shell, say, was functionally identical to what Husky or Esso or Petro-Can is pumping.

Yes, but at least my understanding (and folks can feel free to correct me here) is that it's really based mostly on turnover and not on where you go. So a mom and pop that's very busy is far more likely to have good gas than a Chevron that goes through a single tank every year. And also on storage. Like if your underground tank is corroded and groundwater is leaking in.

Why not just tell your mechanic to do that and be done with it? They should be willing to replace plugs and wires even if they don't experience the misfire.

# ¿ Jul 13, 2018 16:12

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Follow up to an old question and a new question to boot. It�s an �04 Savana with 168k miles on it.

Old: I�d been having an intermittent misfire issue as well as a cat code in bank 1 which I�d assumed was from the misfire. Fuel pressure was OK, no vacuum leaks per the propane method, MAF sensor was testing good, MAP sensor had just been replaced, plugs and coils had been replaced. I was worried it was an issue with valves as I had a tap that increased rate with engine RPM that I thought might be valve/riser tap. Anyway, it turns out the prior owner had sheared the head off the left rearmost exhaust header bolt. So it was tapping and letting in a tiny bit of air which was causing the misfire and throwing off the 02 sensor. $20 later got me an exhaust gasket repair clamp and totally fixed it. Engine purrs now, no more throwing codes. I feel dumb, but that�s pretty par for the course.

New: the ride is bouncy enough that it�s given someone motion sickness (twice), and I can�t tell if that�s because the prior owner put new, crap tires on it that always look like they need air (but don�t) or if the suspension is shot. I mean, yeah, it�s probably both, but is there a way I can check on the springs without just replacing them? How much effect on the ride will lovely tires have?

builds character fucked around with this message at 12:53 on Jul 28, 2018

# ¿ Jul 28, 2018 12:50

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

rdb posted:

Its probably in need of a decent set of heavy duty shocks. At that age and mileage I would start there before even trying anything else.

Alright, thanks. I�ll start there. Is that the kind of job I really need a lift for?
E: I�m pretty handy but the van has lived in NY and PA it�s whole life and I don�t have an air impact wrench.

Dennis McClaren posted:

That's really cool, and it would fix my exhaust header bolt problem with the same leak I have in Bank 1. Problem is my truck has the Dodge 4.8l and that's some specialty GM part fix it looks like. Instead I'm stuck dropping another $250 to get it fixed normally.

It really was great to find it and it�s working really well so far. There�s an empty threaded hole on the side of the engine it bolts into so I assume if you have something similar then there�s one out there for you too.

builds character fucked around with this message at 01:32 on Jul 29, 2018

# ¿ Jul 29, 2018 01:30

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

Javid posted:

Would there be much or any point putting more off road capable tires on my rwd van or is that just turd polishing on a 2wd vehicle? I don't plan to climb rocks or anything, just wanna be as capable as is reasonable on dirt, gravel, etc when needed.

It needs new tires anyway, so if I can spend up to, I dunno, +50% for a significant upgrade on blm/forest roads without degrading normal driving, I'm interested.

Based on what I�ve read on expedition portal you will also need a mild lift and then you�ll be golden for most dirt roads.

STR posted:

I've pulled trailers before, but it's been in a pickup truck, and only one specific trailer (powerwashing trailer that my stepdad built, that was sketchy as gently caress). Never at highway speeds.

Next week I'm driving a 16 foot box truck with a car trailer (4 wheel, not a dolly), with my car on it for a couple of hundred miles. AFAIK the trailer will not have electric brakes.

Easy enough, right? I know the basics, like it's going to take a lot longer to stop, and I know how to hook it up. Never was great at backing up with a trailer, but Penske apparently claims backing up with said trailer is verboten anyway. I went with the 4 wheel trailer over a dolly specifically because I've heard they handle a lot better compared to a dolly.

Suggestions for babby's first real highway trailer experience? Specific equipment is a Penske 16 foot box truck with a Penske car carrier, hauling a Saturn Ion (a little under 3000 pounds). I would have preferred their 12 foot truck, but the 12 footer doesn't have a hitch, nor does it get a ramp. Same price as the 16 footer, but the hit in MPG is going to hurt.

Just go slow and be chill and you�ll be fine.

builds character fucked around with this message at 13:14 on Jul 29, 2018

# ¿ Jul 29, 2018 13:12

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

PabloBOOM posted:

I was pretty much in your exact shoes this time last year, down to the brand of truck. Then drove that monster with loaded car for two days and didn't run over a single Smart car or road sign! The only part that stressed me out was making sure I had enough space at any gas stations or other stops. As said, just relax and plan ahead; if I couldn't see an easy spot to turn around, I didn't stop there. I'd say the most important thing to remember is an auxiliary cable and phone mount for the road trip! They're surprisingly not stressful to just drive down the highway.

Good point. DO NOT GO UNDER THAT BRIDGE IN NORTH CAROLINA.

# ¿ Jul 29, 2018 13:30

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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 07:03

builds character: Jan 16, 2008; Keep at it.

spog posted:

ChrisFix and Scotty Kilmer are pretty good learning resources. They don't always get it right 100% of the time, but mostly you should find them interesting.

(They both have voices that irritate me)

I personally prefer South Main Auto Repair and Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics (great for electrical magic)

Anyone else want to weigh in?

As for practical stuff - having a 'spare' car to work on is much relaxing than doing stuff on your daily driver.

Seconding south main auto repair. That guy is great.

You can do a lot on the street, although your neighbors may not love you depending on where you live. I would start with changing your air filters. Usually you�ll have two. One in cabin and one for the engine.

# ¿ Aug 17, 2018 13:50

The Something Awful Forums > Discussion > Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - The automotive forum is calling about your car

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