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I live in Dallas, Texas and I have a 2010 Honda Civic LX coupe which just turned 64,000 miles. I purchased it in January 2013 used with 34,000 miles, it was a 2 year lease before that. The last time my maintenance light went off, it was for an A13 service, so I dutifully had the oil and filter changed, rotated the tires myself, and then waited until two weeks later for when it was convenient for me to have the transmission fluid drained and filled. When I went to pick it up from the dealership, the mechanic suggested a power steering fluid flush and a brake fluid flush. I worked at a dealership during college so I know how much mechanics love to recommend services that are easy to do and pay good hours, so I declined so I could do further research. I had the pads and rotors replaced about 7,500 miles ago. I check and keep the master cylinder and power steering reservoir filled on a monthly basis. The steering feels fine and doesn't make any whining noise while turning and the brakes don't feel spongy. The fluid for both is dark. I've found various maintenance recommendations on the internet but nothing definitive. Should I have the suggested service done?
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Apr 1, 2015 23:00
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My father-in-law died a few weeks ago and I have his 2000 Lexus RX 300 sitting in my garage airing out from all the cigarettes he smoked in it. We're going to try and sell it and I'm trying to decide how much work to put into it before we do. It has about 134,000 miles on it, before I drove it back home I had to put 3 quarts of oil in it since it was very low. He was not much for keeping up with maintenance. Here's all the CEL codes that were pulled out of it: P0171 - system too lean (MAF sensor?) P0325 - knock sensor P0330 - knock sensor P0305 - cylinder 5 misfire It drove mostly fine, in the 3 hour drive from east Texas back to Dallas there were two instances of power loss that went away quickly. First time I was at a stop, then went to accelerate and had very little power, second time I was driving at a constant speed and the motor cut out then revved back up. This car may be worth only $2000-3000 in good shape, so I don't want to put more than $1000 in repairs into it. Is that doable?
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Apr 4, 2015 03:12
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Thanks, that's not as bad as I thought it would be. I'd say it's nowhere near "fair", there's cigarette burns everywhere in the carpet and massive damage to the leather seats.
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Apr 4, 2015 03:41
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some texas redneck posted:
Not the guy you quoted, but I'm in Lewisville and could use a good reference for a Honda (and/or a Lexus) mechanic. Can you PM me?
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Apr 8, 2015 06:46
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IM DAY DAY IRL posted:Beyond the hilariously low combined 10 mpg are there any very blatant reasons why I should stop considering picking up a Lincoln Mark III as a Sunday driver? If you can find a 1964 Continental, stop considering a Mark III
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Apr 8, 2015 22:46
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The Mandingo posted:My father-in-law died a few weeks ago and I have his 2000 Lexus RX 300 sitting in my garage airing out from all the cigarettes he smoked in it. We're going to try and sell it and I'm trying to decide how much work to put into it before we do. It has about 134,000 miles on it, before I drove it back home I had to put 3 quarts of oil in it since it was very low. He was not much for keeping up with maintenance. Slight update to this. The RX has been sitting in my garage, airing out the cigarette smell, since we got it back home. I'd go out and start it every 3-4 days to keep the battery charged, but I could tell that it was on its way out. On the weekend before last it completely died. Starter would click and interior electronics and lights would come on, dimly, and then not at all. I pulled the Diehard battery and ran to the nearest Sears store. It was almost closing time, so the mechanic kept the battery overnight to charge and let me know if it was bad or not. Went back the following Monday and it was dead - but had some warranty left, so I paid $60 for a prorated replacement. Got it back home and put it in the RX and of course everything reset, including the CEL. Before we drove it home my wife's grandpa hooked up his ODB reader and pulled the codes and reset the CEL. Similar issues - ran like crap, clearly could hear a misfire under the hood. After it ran for a while the CEL came back on and it went to running better. After replacing the battery it did a similar thing - I just slowly drove it around the block and let it run for a while for the codes to show up - and the engine started running better. Then the smell of burning oil. I turned the car off, popped the hood, and saw a little bit of smoke coming from the rear of the motor. Not sure where it came from, but it smelled like burning oil not coolant. Thoughts on where I should start? Safe to drive to the mechanic's shop (20 miles away) or should I arrange a tow?
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Apr 27, 2015 16:57
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TKIY posted:Asking this in the AI/BFC thread but I think it's more apt here: I worked at a dealership, so I have some insight here. The answer to your question is: it depends on the general manager. Typically, we put our GM and sales managers into the top of the line biggest SUV we had. They wouldn't baby them, but they weren't off-roading either. The most work that the GM driven cars get is probably hauling golf clubs to the country club. You're right, likely not given a proper break-in, but who says the average car owner would do that anyway? You can look at it as a lease-return with less miles (or kilometers in your case).
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Apr 27, 2015 23:26
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TKIY posted:Sorry to come back to this but the dealer is making some very aggressive offers. I'd say that the demo trucks that we sold were in very good condition. We typically would change out the managers no later than 7500 miles driven, and usually before that. Plus they still had the factory warranty included. I'd guess that they had 3-6 months of daily driving on them, so I wouldn't worry about how risky they are. Have your mechanic give it a full inspection if you want more peace of mind, but I'd bet that everything is fine.
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Apr 28, 2015 16:23
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The Mandingo posted:My father-in-law died a few weeks ago and I have his 2000 Lexus RX 300 sitting in my garage airing out from all the cigarettes he smoked in it. We're going to try and sell it and I'm trying to decide how much work to put into it before we do. It has about 134,000 miles on it, before I drove it back home I had to put 3 quarts of oil in it since it was very low. He was not much for keeping up with maintenance. some texas redneck posted:System too lean is either a vacuum leak, a leak in the intake tube behind the MAF, or a fuel system issue. Since it cut out on you a couple of times, I'd be leaning more toward a bad fuel pump or clogged fuel filter. Update on the Lexus! I used the guy that some texas redneck referred me to, he's great. I'd recommend him to anyone in north Dallas with a Japanese import. MAF sensor was dirty due to the other engine issues, he cleaned it up and no more faults. Wiring harness was in good shape. Both knock sensors were bad, and replaced at $200 each. He said that the valves were really sludgy when he took the covers off - didn't get a picture though (I asked after the fact) but he did take a picture of the pan after he took it off to clean some of the sludge that fell down into it. New spark plugs and wires. Found a new back seat and had it installed for $350ish. I turned down the timing belt and a full brake job. Both of those things I'd do if this was a daily driver for me, but it's a third vehicle that we're just going to sell. I'll tell the buyer to get them done. Total cost of all repairs is just over $1700. Next step is to rent an ozone machine to clean out the smoke smell.
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May 22, 2015 17:44
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Anyone have an estimate on a "fair" price for a new set of floor mats for a 2000 Lexus RX 300 will run me? I've seen a few on ebay for $100-120 - does that sound right?
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Jun 9, 2015 22:41
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Putting the final touches on the old Lexus RX 300, getting ready to sell. Have an ozone treatment and interior detail scheduled for Friday morning, and then I'm going to start posting ads online to sell. (BTW, if you want to buy it from me, I'm in Dallas, send me a PM). Does anyone remember a post in AI (maybe in this thread) with a guide to selling a car as a private party? I've never done that before, always traded in my vehicle when getting a new one.
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Jun 25, 2015 17:41
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With it getting cooler out my 2010 civic has a strange whining noise in the mornings. The pitch increases with revs, and will continue even while warm. No, it's not the supercharger (there isn't one). Bearing going out on the alternator or the tensioner pulley?
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Nov 11, 2015 18:47
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What do I need besides my socket set and a box of new plugs to change sparkplugs on a 2010 Honda Civic? Do I need a torque wrench and gap gauge?
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Mar 15, 2017 16:28
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Thanks guys. I have a spark plug socket I've never used, hopefully they're a standard size.
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Mar 15, 2017 17:05
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I've got a 2010 Honda Civic with the peeling paint flaw that many of that generation had. I had it at the dealership on a weekend in April and I saw another same generation Civic with identical paint problems. When I got home I started searching online - there's an extended service bulletin for seven years past the date of purchase for warranty repair on this flaw. I took it back to the dealer the following Monday to take pictures and submit to their factory rep. They declined repairs, because the original owner purchased in March of 2010 and it was near the end of April 2017, six weeks out of warranty. After back and forth with the service department over the last few weeks they've gotten the factory rep to cover half the repair cost. The service rep said that the typical total repair estimate for this type of paint work is around $2500. Should I push this any further, or should I just suck it up and let it go? Yeah, I was a few weeks out of warranty - that's my fault. But I've gone to these guys for the major service interval work over the last year. No one ever said anything to me about the open ESB, and I didn't realize it was a flaw on a lot of different Civics.
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Jun 1, 2017 15:41
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rdb posted:$1250 to repaint probably every horizontal panel is a great deal. If it was still under the extended warranty they'll only fix the panels that are affected, just the roof in this case. Anything that showed up afterwards isn't covered.
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Jun 1, 2017 21:52
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What's the expected interval for replacing drums/shoes on a 2010 Honda Civic, (or any vehicle really)?
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Aug 3, 2017 01:38
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I'm thinking about buying a squarebody GM truck, and I scanned AI for a truck thread but didn't find anything that really matches that. Is there a general truck thread? An old truck thread? A GM thread?
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May 6, 2018 17:52
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Autoexec.bat posted:I don't think there is a thread specific to squarebody GMs but you can ask questions here if you want. I personally own a 1991 Squarebody Suburban. shy boy from chess club posted:Ive got a squarebody dump truck too. Im sure if you have questions there are a few of us that can help. I had a ‘92 through college until about 2007, when I couldn’t afford to do the brake system overhaul it needed and the 4.3 L motor was showing its age. I think it was at 170k miles, 65k I put in it. Now that I have money and an itch to do some wrenching I wanna get a 3rd gen (‘73-‘87). I know aboutthe big issues to watch for, like rust at the cab corners and frame cracks at the rear shock mounts. What else should I be aware of? I’d like to get something that already runs decently, with 4wd, and under $5. Doesn’t have to be pretty, but not falling apart either. Luckily I’m in Texas do rust is pretty minimal aside from mudders that didn’t get cared for. JUST MAKING CHILI fucked around with this message at 15:41 on May 8, 2018 |
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May 8, 2018 03:17
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I’ve been searching for a square body Chevy/GMC truck as a third vehicle, and I found one. Should I buy this for weekend hauling and as a wrenching toy? https://dallas.craigslist.org/ftw/cto/d/1979-chevy-k20-4wd-must-sell/6549045488.html Publicdata.com says the current owner bought it a couple years ago for $800. Looks like he’s put some work into it, but I’m not sure it was $3000 worth of work. Anything I should look for, besides the known rust issues on cab corners and floors, wheel wells, and door bottoms? JUST MAKING CHILI fucked around with this message at 06:05 on May 15, 2018 |
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May 15, 2018 05:26
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1974 Chevy truck with the 350 small block. Current owner ran a coolant system flush and then didn’t refill it with coolant. Let it sit over the winter (in Texas, no snow and minimal days below 30 degrees). Replaced a freeze plug, then refilled it with coolant. Now there’s a massive leak out the front of the engine at the water pump. No coolant in the oil, so that’s a good sign. Simple pump replacement job, or should I look at other potential problems?
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Jun 26, 2018 05:01
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Worst case, the 3-4 clutch is dead and you need a rebuild. Good luck goon! Edit: can you shift it to third manually?
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Jul 14, 2018 18:33
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Wide open throttle should stop fuel delivery.
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Jul 19, 2018 17:41
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Carb floats need adjusting? Maybe a new fuel filter for better flow, or your fuel sender unit is at the back of your tank and the decline is enough to run fuel away from the pickup?
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Jul 19, 2018 18:24
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Is there a tire megathread? If not, I'll just ask my questions here. I bought an '85 chevy c20 3/4 ton truck. It needs new tires, since the DOT date on all of it's tires is from 2009. Currently wearing 235/85r16 tires on 16x6.5 steel rims. I'd forgotten how expensive light truck tires are, everything seems to be around $150/tire out the door. Is this a common tire/wheel combo, or are tires so expensive because it's not a common size anymore? Any suggestions on the best brand/type of tire for a weekend cruiser with occasional hauling/towing? It's 2wd so I don't need Mud Terrains or Trail Grapplers.
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Jul 20, 2018 15:59
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Hatchback, but not a turbo: https://jalopnik.com/for-4-900-does-this-nissan-have-200sx-appeal-1552030398/amp 56% nice!
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Jul 22, 2018 16:22
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I have an old truck, a ‘85 Chevy C20 truck with the dual 20 gallon side saddle tanks. I’ve decided to only putter around town because the best adjectives to describe the driving experience are “vague”, “unresponsive”, and “slow”. Also, burning to death in a side impact seems not fun.
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Aug 11, 2018 22:05
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Doesn't it depend on how old the car is? I think around the early 2000s most manufacturers changed to sealed wheel bearings which last longer than the old type and don't ever get serviced instead they get replaced if they go bad.
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Aug 14, 2018 14:45
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melon cat posted:2007 Corolla LE. I want to replace the old stereo with a newer one that has an AUX jack and other fancy poo poo (right now it's just CD player + AM/FM radio). How do I go about finding a compatible stereo setup for this old-rear end car? Crutchfield's find what fits your car page.
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Aug 17, 2018 22:22
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I need help identifying this part. It’s on the passenger side of the engine, a 454 V8 on a 1985 Chevy C20 truck. I took this picture on my back under the truck. There’s no leak but I want to replace that split hose before there’s a problem. I’ve looked through my chilton guide and the factory service manual, but I still don’t know what this golden part with the two hoses is. https://m.imgur.com/a/VIGd46r
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Aug 20, 2018 17:13
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Dagen H posted:That's the fuel pump. Thanks, that's exactly right.
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Aug 20, 2018 18:09
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Low fuel pressure from a bad pump could cause engine surge.
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Aug 27, 2018 19:15
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1985 Chevrolet C20 truck question. I took it out for a drive after it sat for about a week parked, and it was hard to start just like it always is after sitting a while. Eventually fired right up, no problem. Took it out on the freeway, probably doing 60 mph at about 2500-3000 RPM, when I put my foot down to accelerate. Automatic transmission downshifted and RPMs increased, and then the engine just flat out stopped revving. Didn't die, just stopped accelerating. i tried to duplicate this and could only get it to happen when at speeds over 45 (hard to tell, the speedo doesn't work) and accelerating hard. Never from a stop, and never below 45ish. It's got a quadrajet carb sitting on top of a stock 454 v8 - I'm guessing that the fuel sender just couldn't keep up and the bowls ran dry? Maybe there's an obstruction in the fuel lines/filter/tank? Hard start is probably just from sitting, it flat out wouldn't start earlier until I had the carb rebuilt and the starter and flex plate replaced earlier in the summer. It was missing teeth on the flex plate and who knows if the starter was still any good. The previous owner had the fuel sender replaced earlier in the year too.
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Sep 14, 2018 17:08
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| # ¿ Apr 27, 2024 12:41 |
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:1985 Chevrolet C20 truck question. Finally not ungodly hot and humid outside, so I grabbed some b-12 carb cleaner at autozone, doused the carb and tried to fire it up. After a few almost starts, it fired up and stayed running. Drove it around the block without any problems except on a single hard acceleration that caused it to stutter again. Seems like there’s something going on with fuel delivery, but since it’s a third vehicle I’m not too worried about it for now. Will try to diagnose and repair later.
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Sep 29, 2018 01:01
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