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spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








Slippery Tilde

My car ran like poo poo a couple of weeks ago and I replaced the spark plugs and that fixed it. Until today, it ran really bad again (rough idle, cylinders misfiring). I was on my way to somewhere so I parked it and took a look under the hood.
I could hear the sparks jumping whenever it skipped (like a clicking sound).

I took off a spark plug cable from the distributor and it was all corroded, slightly greenish with some white powdery stuff inside. I blew out the powdery stuff and put the cable back and twisted it a few times to clean the corrosion a bit and that seemed to work.

My question is is what is the best way to clean these contacts and what is the best way to preserve them? I was thinking steel wool and then some vaseline?


I might replace the cables but the distributor is a combined unit with the coil so i'd rather not replace that if I can avoid it. (cost reasons mainly)

Car is a 2002 Golf Mk. 4 with a 1.4 4cyl engine if that matters.

spankmeister fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Nov 1, 2015

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spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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This is the coil pack:



So cleaning the connectors on the coil pack and replacing all the cables is the best way to go?

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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Cool, thanks!

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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On the subject of oil drain plugs, my car doesn't have a copper crush washer but it has a steel one that is integral to the plug. How many times can I reuse that before I have to replace it?

e:

spankmeister fucked around with this message at 08:10 on Nov 8, 2015

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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spankmeister posted:

On the subject of oil drain plugs, my car doesn't have a copper crush washer but it has a steel one that is integral to the plug. How many times can I reuse that before I have to replace it?

e:



Anyone?

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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Alright cool.

The threads are a little bit hosed because apparently some 300 pound gorilla overtightened it once. There's visible damage on the bolt head as well.

When I replace the plug after an oil change I can do it by hand until I hit a spot then I have to use a wrench to get past the point and then I can turn it with my fingers again. This happens a couple of times before it's all the way in.

Can I clean up the threads by (very carefully) chasing it with a same-sized tap to clean out the burrs? Or do I need to go next size up to fix damage like that.

Or should I just not give a gently caress and keep doing it this way?

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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It would also look really, really stupid.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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This is why mandatory inspections are a good thing.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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I would also clean the coil pack contacts and make sure that it has a good ground. (Brass brush the mounts clean)

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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yeah so check the plugs, plug cables, coil pack.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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There's these small FM transmitters that only carry a few meters, I've only seen them with a regular 3,5mm jack but I'm sure some enterprising Chinese manufacturers have made one with bluetooth.

e: for example: http://m.aliexpress.com/item/32367519312.html

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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I don't know if old BMW's have them but for some calipers you need a special tool to compress the piston. It's a special tool that twists and compresses at the same time. My VW has calipers like that for the rears. Might want to check on that.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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Good to know, thanks.
E: now it finally makes sense to me why they need the threaded piston.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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Grouco posted:

Good call. I checked this morning-- my front right wheel only has 2 lug nuts on it....

I'm busy until all the shops close today, but my buddy said I can make it to work tomorrow if I take 1 lug nut off each rear tire and put them on the front left. I think I should have a cross lug nut wrench in the truck, so I'll give it a go.

Please don't drive like that, if you're lucky you'll just kill yourself and not someone else too.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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Brake light switch probably, or wiring maybe.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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Geoj posted:

No experience with a GTI but with hatches in general I would start with water pooling in the spare tire well, coming from a loose or leaky weather seal.

Yeah I've had his happen in my Mk.4 Golf where PO left a rag and bunch of plastic bags and poo poo in there and it plugged up the drain hole. It got so bad my trunk developed mold issues. I've since removed the rag and other poo poo (which almost fell apart due to rotting) and it's much, much better now.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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H110Hawk posted:

2009 BMW Z4 (E89) sdrive30. Sucked in a lot of dust at the track, want to replace air filters.

Cabin air filter is part 64 31 9 195 194. Is there any reason not to just get the also-fit brands for around half as much as the OEM/superior-german-adhesives filter? Planning on getting the charcoal ones regardless.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog..._VENTAC_pg1.htm
http://smile.amazon.com/Mann-Filter.../dp/B001DRHMN2/

And funny story, the engine air filter shows two very different shapes as "valid" for my car, same question, but I will pop out my filter to know which shape I should buy.

http://smile.amazon.com/MAHLE-Origi...r/dp/B0080E52L0
http://smile.amazon.com/Mann-Filter...dp/B005BFL1L6/r
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog..._BASFLT_pg1.htm

Some brands are better than others. I usually just get Bosch as it's OEM but doesn't have the VAG logos and part numbers but is the exact same part otherwise. I don't know what BMW uses tbh.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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Raluek posted:

Depends on the ignition system. You can implement a rev limiter with a fuel cut, or with a spark cut. My MSD 6AL (the L is for limiter) has an adjustable spark cut, and yet I have a carburetor.

Which is great for getting unburnt fuel in your catalytic converter.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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Does anybody have a good method for cleaning coil pack contacts? I replaced my spark plug wires and I cleaned the contacts on the coil pack best I could, but couldn't get all the corrosion off because the contact is inside this tube and it's really hard to fit any kind of tool in there.

Reason I ask is because the idle has slowly become a little rough again. Nowhere near what it was before but enough to make me think I should clean those contacts again.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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Christobevii3 posted:

We use contact cleaner spray for super expensive drilling tools at work and their connectors, i'd imagine it would work great for this too along with a small brush http://www.amazon.com/CRC-5103-Quic...r/dp/B000BXOGNI

I've tried a spray cleaner but I can't get rid of the corrosion with a contact cleaner alone, I guess what I'm looking for is tips on what kind of tools work best to get into the small holes.

Not my picture but it looks like this:



And as you may imagine it's difficult to get into those holes.
Also, mine looks similar with the green corrosion stuff in the holes.


IOwnCalculus posted:

There is, of course, always the possibility of unforseen collateral damage. I swapped a starter in an early Saturn once with a very limited tool set, and one of the bolts chewed the hell out of its threads in the block. Had to spend as much time running around trying to put together a thread chaser to clean that out, as I did doing the rest of the job. There's also the possibility that the noise is from improper engagement with the ring gear on the flywheel / flexplate, which will be a much more involved repair.

You can avoid this by running in the bolts by hand and making sure they're not cross-threaded. Only once you're sure the bolts go in smooth you switch to your ratchet.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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H110Hawk posted:

Funny question, has the coil pack been replaced under recall? If not see if the dealer will just give you a new one. There was a recall on the mk4 coil packs many moons ago.

No idea to be honest, would be nice, I'll call the VW dealer tomorrow.

e: Did some digging, looks like it affected those per-plug coil packs only (idk what those are called).

spankmeister fucked around with this message at 16:02 on Dec 21, 2015

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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IOwnCalculus posted:

I'd agree but it did this on the way out. I couldn't even get the bolt to start by hand until I cleaned all of the poo poo out of the threads, and I was amazed it torqued down properly. I still have no loving idea how it happened, other than that car was a cursed piece of poo poo.

Maybe the PO was a 300 pound gorilla and he overtorqued it?

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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StormDrain posted:

Buy some gun cleaning brushes, brass I think would be best. You may find other similar pipe cleaning brushes that will work, for peanuts.

I could not find anything at several hardware and DIY places so I ended up going to a gun store which is not very easy to find in Holland let me tell you. We simply don't enjoy the freedoms of the second amendement here.

Got some brushes that I think will work, gonna try to clean the coil tomorrow.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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General_Failure posted:

'87 Lada Niva.
Still battling with the clutch. It's a pretty standard hydraulic clutch system with a threaded rod on the SC for manual clutch adjustment.

Issue: Declutching point is near the floor.

Tried:
Bleeding clutch.
Vacuum bleeding clutch.
Readjusting SC to factory setting.
Readjusting SC past factory setting, ensuring the TOB wasn't touching still.

Result of the last step was interesting. Instead of the clutch pedal feeling dead until declutching occurs, there's resistance in the pedal before declutching, which still seems to happen at roughly the same point.
What's going on? I can't work this out. I'm considering another vacuum bleed because I still don't 100% trust the fluid but beyond that no idea.

It's Russian, use a sledgehammer.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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spankmeister posted:

It's Russian, use a sledgehammer.

I actually have no idea but it seems like the right thing to do.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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So when you have a non-standard tire size that's not listed on the thing in the fuel cap what do you inflate your tires to?

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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totalnewbie posted:

Hi, spark plug engineer here!

Go ahead and use what the manufacturer recommends. If it was 41-921 then it was originally a platinum plug. Basically, an iridium plug is a better platinum plug but cheaper (to make, anyway).

Nickel (I know people call them copper but it's nickel, drat it) plugs are not as good as iridium in any way except price. However, if your car is tuned for nickel plugs, you're better off using them than a precious metal plug because the spark timings can be off (too early).

But even though iridium plugs will cost 10 bucks a piece, they last 100k miles (modern turbocharged engines aside) so you don't have to replace them as often as nickel plugs (30k life).

My car runs on LPG, should I care about special plugs?

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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They sell it as having a very small spark gap and very hot spark as to ignite the mixture more quickly and completely? But because of the spark gap the electrode is very thin so it has to be platinum or iridium for longevity.

Or so I'm told....

But they are like €20 to €25 each so a set would cost me €100 so instead I went for factory spec NGK's and paid €20 for a set. Maybe I'll have to replace them in 10k who knows but for that money who cares?

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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Thanks for the info man, appreciate it.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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totalnewbie posted:

And what the gently caress, why are spark plugs that expensive. Nickel should be a couple euro each at most and iridium maybe 10 euro at most.

Idk man, you tell me. These go for that kind of money :

https://www.ngk.de/en/sales/product.../lpg-laserline/

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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Godholio posted:

I'm not sure how the Ultras are, but Sylvania recently lost a $30M lawsuit over SilverStar performance. Hint: blue tint on the bulb is tint. That makes it dimmer, even though the color shift (toward white) makes you think it's brighter.

Philips makes good bulbs. Whatever direction you go, stay away from lovely ebay HIDs.

Edit: Also, see if your housing is hazed over. Polishing that up might clean up the light a bit.

It's about aesthetics anyway so it doesn't matter.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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ChikoDemono posted:

Forgot to ask that. Besides the timing belt and water pump, are there anything else I should get replaced during the job?

rollers, tensioners

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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Jack B Nimble posted:

2006 GMC Sonoma, 150kish miles, 4.3
Doesn’t Start


[*]It has spark, we pulled a plug and can see it.


You checked just one plug?

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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If it ran empty the filter may have clogged

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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H110Hawk posted:

Comedy option you will bump into a brick wall parking or someone else and damage your car and/or theirs.

Yes or you hit a pedestrian and you cripple them for life.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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Raluek posted:

Whose life? Yours, theirs, or the car's?

I hardly think a tow hook is going to be the most menacing thing on the road for a pedestrian.

If you hit them on the leg with it you probably completely shatter their bones.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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opengl128 posted:

I have a 2005, it's definitely obvious if its a MPH or KPH car. Besides the speedo, the temp gauge has degree numbering instead of L/H, and the fuel gauge has a O for empty and a filled in O for full.






If it were actually a GM product maybe, but its just a rebadged Matrix.

I have a KPH car with numbers on the temp but E/F on the fuel gauge soo?

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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csidle posted:

I've had some problems with my Ford Mondeo 1996 1.8 overheating, which are caused by the fact that the head gasket is probably blown. Regardless of this, I've driven it for a few hundred kilometers recently without issue. The reason for this is that the problems with overheating only occur when I go over a certain speed for a certain duration, so I've just used it for city driving. Recently though, I took a trip of about 80 kilometers (~60 miles). This went fine at normal road speeds of about 80 km/h.

Anyway, the next day, after only a short while of driving in the city, the overheating problems returned. I left the car overnight and was able to drive it again the next day. However, the air coming out of the vents is now cold, even if I have it set to hot. This was also a problem when the overheating problem originally started back in November.

I'm wondering if the cold air coming through the vents coupled with overheating problems is linked and if there is anything I can do about it. I realize that I'm driving on borrowed time since the head gasket is probably blown, but I am just driving the car since I have it anyway. I don't want to bother getting a new car since I only need this one for another few months and it's fine for my needs.

Normally with overheating issues I'd suggest turning your heater and blower to full blast to dump some heat but if it doesn't work at all I'd suspect some cooling circuit issue.

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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CronoGamer posted:

Hi all, quick little problem I hoped to get some opinions on. My fiancee drives a leased 2015 Honda Fit LX (still under warranty). She's a beginner driver and has had her share of scrapes and bumps, including a few against the curb while parallel parking. She complained to me that the car was clicking at slow speeds, and would click faster until about 40 mph when it would quiet down. I don't know much about cars but did a quick visual check and saw the front passenger wheel and hubcap were pretty banged up, and that was definitely where the clicking came from. It looks like the rim is dented.

She took the car to the Honda dealer since she was overdue for an oil change anyway. They quoted her $99 to fix alignment, and $400 to repair the rim. A quick google search shows $400 for rim repair to be obscene. So my questions are as follows:

1) is $400 as terribly exorbitant as it seems?
2) Assuming she may have misheard, is $400 appropriate to replace the wheel entirely? How much should we be looking at to replace or repair?
3) Is it a serious problem to continue driving on a bent rim? I have all manner of faith in her, but sort of doubt this will be the last time she hits the curb and don't want to throw away money on a wheel that is bound to hit a lot of curbs in the future.

If they're just steelies with hubcaps replacing the hub with a good used or even new one is way cheaper

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spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008








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I'm straight up gonna put my money on a bad ground.

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