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I did rear shocks on my mk4 golf and it was really easy. Seconding only replacing them if they go bad. They're not a scheduled replacement item imo.
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Jul 3, 2020 23:22
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melon cat posted:Back to the 2007 Corolla. Any tips for removing a seized, rusty as poo poo bolt from my bushing clamp in this cramped space so I can replace my sway bar bushing? This space is so small and doesn't have enough clearance for any of my tools to fit. Can you get a nut splitter on there?
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Jul 7, 2020 00:14
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melon cat posted:Not likely. The clamp design doesn't leave much space where the bolt head meets the "hump" on the clamp. And nut splitter heads look pretty thick/fat. But can you even use a nut splitter on a bolt head? I'm sorry I didn't look properly and thought it was a nut. Hmm in this case I'd probably zip off the entire bracket so you can remove the rubber and move the arm out of the way to give more access from the right side. Then you might get locking pliers on there or something. Have a new bracket ready to install of course.
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Jul 7, 2020 08:12
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DrBouvenstein posted:Well gently caress me, there is no way to get the rusted pieces of the anti-rattle clip, or whatever it is, out of there: Well, you can dissolve steel with alum and that shouldn't affect the aluminum calipers. Gonna take a few days though.
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Jul 14, 2020 00:38
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Minto Took posted:Since oil changes can go for 5000 miles, did the time before oil changes get updated as well (3 months being what I remember it used to be)? I think three months was when people were buying their gas from a pharmacy and oil was made from whale drippings.
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Jul 16, 2020 07:45
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AFewBricksShy posted:If my car seems to get slightly bogged down when starting, (75k miles) that’s probably a sign that the battery is starting to go, right? For batteries the mileage isn't as important as the age is and the conditions they've been in. How old is it? What climate do you live in? spankmeister fucked around with this message at 14:23 on Jul 19, 2020 |
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Jul 19, 2020 14:21
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The Real Amethyst posted:2016 euro civic 1.4L i-vtec 104HP petrol. 104? Phwoar mate that's a racecar. My 1.4 golf only makes 75.
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Jul 20, 2020 10:22
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BraveUlysses posted:probably filled in March? it's probably less than half a tank. I drive a bifuel car (gasoline & LPG) so the gasoline rarely gets used, it only starts on it and switches to lpg when the car is up to temperature. I only fill up the gasoline maybe twice a year or so, and only halfway. As a result I drive around on months old gasoline on regular basis. It's fine.
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Jul 20, 2020 10:25
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Well mine is almost 20 years old. Most small engines these days have turbo's and variable everything.
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Jul 20, 2020 12:06
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Chillbro Baggins posted:Is there an AI Discord server? I have a 2003 cop car with a bad ECU (I assume, replaced all the plugs and coils to no effect, it was an acting V6 when I last drove it 3 years ago.) I can now afford to fix it. Needs a battery, brain box, new gas, anything I'm missing? Do I need the paperwork to renew the long-lapsed Texas registration, of can they look it up from the license plate? No offense but sounds like it's missing a proper diagnosis before swapping the ECU.
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Aug 9, 2020 07:33
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Charles posted:I think there are a few cars that are actually known to. The good news is a Crown Vic ECU shouldn't be expensive, there have to be tons of them. They can and do fail sometimes but the diagnostic process of "swapped the coils and plugs welp must be the ECU" leaves a lot to be desired.
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Aug 9, 2020 18:17
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Yeah you tap the starter with some implement. A hammer is canonical but anything works, like a wrench. All you're trying to do is to move the contacts around a little bit to move past a bad spot. Problem is that this is one of those tricks that people have heard of but they don't actually understand how it works and they just start wailing on it with a 5 pounder or whatever which absolutely destroys the starter. I mean, it's a good trick to get you out of a jam when you're in the sticks and your car won't start but once it starts doing that you want to replace that thing asap. spankmeister fucked around with this message at 07:02 on Aug 22, 2020 |
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Aug 22, 2020 06:58
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smoobles posted:I had a 2004 Honda Element sitting in my driveway for 3 years (out of sight out of mind) and finally mustered the enthusiasm to sell it. Yep that's right. The computer keeps track of certain variables and checks if they're in spec for emissions. Those are called readiness monitors and you need a full drive cycle where the car gets up to temperature properly, drive at different loads and RPM's and whatnot to have them to be set properly. I don't know about having to drive 100 miles, I guess that's one of those better safe than sorry numbers mechanics like to throw out because there's a lot of variables involved and while 20 miles might do it might also not and it'll only piss off your customer and waste everybody's time by having them drive for 20 miles come back and it's still not ready.
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Aug 25, 2020 22:42
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Well at least it's not a plastic oil pan like some cars have now.
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Aug 28, 2020 00:35
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If the Camry isn't approved then how did you get it?  I would just call around a few places that sell tow hooks and do installs. It's probably too new.
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Aug 30, 2020 13:55
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kastein posted:I always replace the valve cores right before evacuation because the cores only keep pressure in, not vacuum. So if you evacuate, replace cores, then evacuate again, you are basically letting a full system worth of outside air and humidity in for no reason. Unless you have one of those nifty core replacement tools that allows you to do it without opening the system, of course, but I don't own one of those for r134a ports, only r410a. idgi, what else are you supposed to do when you don't have one of those tools other than evacuate first before replacing? Surely not venting to the atmosphere?
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Sep 7, 2020 09:20
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bro all of us here in Europe triple wax the clamps on our intakes. Please be considerate of the fact that it's the only metal part left on a VW engine.
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Sep 19, 2020 21:15
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Chromed lug nuts often swell up so you need a loose fitting socket for those anyway.
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Sep 25, 2020 12:41
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DrBouvenstein posted:I am somehow having a lot of trouble finding the part I need, a wire harness/connector to my 2008 Mazda 3S low beam. Find a junkyard that has one and cut the bits out you need? Make sure to leave plenty of pigtail for splicing.
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Oct 5, 2020 21:02
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Charles posted:Do you guys use a mylar bag for proximity keys? Tin cookie box.
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Oct 7, 2020 07:42
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Silicone paste is good for slide pins, but not the other parts of a brake setup,
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Oct 9, 2020 21:02
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Bad plugs don't make it up and quit all of the sudden without making the car run like rear end for a while first. They certainly don't magically start working again. Fuel gauge... Well you can probably remember when the last time you filled it up right? Is it plausible you ran out of gas due to a bad gauge? You drove it for 8 miles afterwards so there must have been some gas left. (A broken gauge doesn't make the car cut out it just makes you forget to fill up and run out) Bad alternator: Was the car doing weird electrical things before it cut out? (Dim lights, no fan, radio cutting out, power windows not working, etc.) Would you be able to crank the car if the battery had been run flat due to a bad alt? So just run through all these options in your mind like this and try to figure out if any of them makes sense given the circumstances. You just need to have the issue diagnosed properly. It could be anything, fuel pump issue, ignition switch, ECU issue, distributor/coils, bad ground, etc, etc. Any number of things. So you just need a proper diagnosis.
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Oct 10, 2020 01:23
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Cowslips Warren posted:all mechanics charge for a diagnostic check? no, this is not an online one, but for them to actually see why the maintenance needed light is on and you're having issues in general. Yes all mechanics charge a diagnostic fee. Usually it's a flat fee for say an hour of labor. It can vary wildly how long a diag takes, sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes several hours, or anything in between. Remember that you're paying an expert (well, you hope) whose spent years of their life building experience and training. That kind of knowledge isn't free nor should it be free. Also they have to invest in all kinds of special tools, diagnostic equipment, software, access to service information from manufacturers (expensive subscriptions), etc. If there are any shops that don't charge a diagnostic fee, they still charge you by having higher hourly rates and more markup on parts. Or they don't do diagnosis properly and just shotgun parts which ends up costing you even more. e: if it was just the service light being on because it needs an oil change then yeah you wouldn't really charge a diagnostic charge for that because it's trivial and you'd make your money on the oil change, but I presume in this case your diag charge is for the ignition switch issue. spankmeister fucked around with this message at 09:38 on Oct 11, 2020 |
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Oct 11, 2020 09:33
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Cowslips Warren posted:I know poo poo all about what you're saying. IE do I take this back to the mechanic or can I youtube this poo poo and not break something worse? Take it back. You paid for a proper repair.
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Oct 11, 2020 20:15
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BigRoman posted:I'm not sure if this is the right place to post this, but here goes: Why not get a used car that's only a couple of years old? New cars lose half their value the moment you drive them off the lot. Why not take advantage of that and get a good, young, used car?
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Oct 20, 2020 09:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:Have you actually priced a used car recently? One to two year old used cars are cheaper than new, but not by much depending on the car. "Losing half the value as soon as you drive it off the lot" hasn't been true in at least my entire adult life, if not longer. Ok that's fair. I'm not too familiar with the US market and was reasoning from my own market where that still holds true (mostly due to a ridiculous luxury tax on vehicles driving prices up). 16-17 grand sticker price on a new car on the lot is a dream for me lol.
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Oct 20, 2020 16:26
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Micromancer posted:Im 6 foot 290 lbs. The ridge on the side of the seat is awkward getting in, but it's still easier than my Scion was. Once inside, I do not feel cramped other than the seat digs into my hips a tad. Did you lose weight since making those famous pictures? Looking good.
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Oct 21, 2020 19:10
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Those aftermarket remote start thingies are a surefire way to get intermittent electrical issues in your ignition circuit.
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Nov 4, 2020 22:18
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DildenAnders posted:I'm really going to live up to the "Stupid" part of this threads name, but is it possible/easy to convert an electric throttle cable back to a real one? I have a 2006 Mazda 3 that appears to have drive by wire (it says it in some of the dealership materials) and it's honestly one of the biggest things I hate about the car. If it was an option for this car, would that mean it's relatively simple to switch to a regular throttle cable, or would I have to mess with stuff above my pay grade to get it to work (like ECU stuff)? Yeahhh um not trying to be an rear end in a top hat here, but I think you're just imaging things. Like you don't even really know it has e-throttle you just read it in some documents. E-throttle is absolutely fine, it's better than cable actually in a lot of ways. If your car does havepoor throttle response or another drivability issue it's more than likely it's not because it's e-throttle, but because the throttle body is fouled and sticking, or you have a vacuum leak, or your spark plugs are bad, or your injectors might be clogged, etc. Any number of things that should be checked first before coming to the conclusion that you need to convert to cable throttle. Next you'll tell us you want to convert it to carburetor....
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Nov 10, 2020 09:00
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C-Euro posted:The start button is completely unresponsive. I'll have to check the manual again, but the way it's written mentions that the start button should be flashing amber to indicate that the battery is dead and a jump is needed. However, I'm not seeing any response from that button. Charge it for a bit before trying.
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Dec 6, 2020 23:04
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This is basic stuff, nothing weird going on. My suggestion would be to take the battery out and put it on a charger overnight. If that's not an option prepare to charge the battery for several minutes with the jumping car revved up a bit to charge the battery before you try anything.
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Dec 6, 2020 23:10
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Jippa posted:I have a 2002 vw golf. In my manual it says I have to use the specific vw branded "g12" antifreeze. Is this a legit thing or are they just trying to sell me it. I have some "british standard" stuff. Any G12, G12+, G12++, G13, etc coolant will work just fine. Just get "the pink stuff for VW" at your local Halfords or whatever. I would recommend G12++ over G13 because mixing them isn't exactly ideal but it can't really hurt either. But you really don't need VW branded stuff. Source: until recently I was a fellow 2002 VW Golf owner.
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Dec 9, 2020 19:16
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Get one of the galvanized ones idk which ones are and aren't but the older ones rust like they're made of used steel wool glued together.
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Dec 11, 2020 08:37
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Those are some sick rims too
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Dec 19, 2020 00:45
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tactlessbastard posted:I've never experienced that phrase without withering irony I don't know what to do I jest. Those do look really nice.
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Dec 19, 2020 00:53
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tactlessbastard posted:What good is a stolen front license plate? Or is it just jackassery? You can use it to do crimes with a stolen car
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Dec 28, 2020 20:57
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Smells like a bad ground honestly. When you turn on the lights the power tries to find another route to negative and backfeeds into other circuits and it causes all kinds of problems.
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Jan 2, 2021 22:13
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tactlessbastard posted:I'm having a hell of a time finding the part number for this missing bolt on my 2008 Miata. Worst case you get six of a slightly different type of you can't get one that looks the same
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Jan 8, 2021 10:07
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opengl128 posted:Isn't super sturdy double stick tape the standard for plate mounting in europe? Nope. PainterofCrap posted:Aren't most of the European/UK plates plastic now? The one I have is (I have older metal Swiss plates also, but they're from the early 70s) Nope. The standard is, afaik, a plate-holder that screws onto the car that has about a metric bazillion of screw holes for different cars, and it holds a plate which is of a standardized size across the EU. The plate is usually stamped metal. The UK uses plastic ones I think. Maybe other European countries use plastic as well but from my experience Netherlands, Germany, Belgium, France, Italy, Denmark, Sweden, Austria, Poland, etc all use metal plates.
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Jan 10, 2021 20:12
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| # ¿ Apr 25, 2024 05:38 |
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Milwaukee is good and you can't use them as a drill.
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Jan 25, 2021 01:06
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