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'97 Olds 88 with the 4T60E transmission. Doesn't want to go into reverse. It seems like the revs have to be in a VERY specific range for the reverse clutch to engage, and I can hear a squeak when it does so. If I let it sit in R and hold the brake, I can hear a quasi-rhythmic squeaking that pulses in time with transmission engagement. Is this fixable just by dropping the pan off and tightening some band? Will a transmission flush fix this? Should I just drive this until the transmission stops working then replace the transmission?
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Mar 19, 2015 21:24
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Omglosser posted:Thanks everyone, I'll stop worrying about it then. why can't all cars be exactly the same They are all exactly the same. You push the pedal, it goes. It idles at some speed. There's OTHER STUFF that happens in between your foot and the ground that makes all cars work the same. The specifics are just that, though. Specific. babyeatingpsychopath posted:'97 Olds 88 with the 4T60E transmission. I feel this fell off the page and someone here knows something about transmissions.
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Mar 22, 2015 16:18
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Speaking of steering feel, I've got some slight oscillating in my steering wheel at 60+mph. What I mean is I can feel the steering wheel alternate between pulling slightly left and right, and the speed it alternates changes with vehicle speed. Is this a needs alignment/worn out rubber suspension bits issue? Car is 2001 ford zx2. I've got worn suspension bushings and this happens to me, too. I had the car up and the passenger side one is pretty well shot. It just means the wheels don't always point where you are aiming them. I figure I'll replace everything if I ever get around to replacing the steering rack. Probably sometime after the transmission explodes.
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Mar 24, 2015 18:03
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Godholio posted:Testing it's performance under load, basically, but the parts stores do that. If they said it's good, it's probably good. Note that testing under load is running a small-ohm load to measure current flow. If the battery is fully charged, it absolutely will not be when they're done with the load test. If the battery were a bit dodgy, that load test can fry it. He should still get a multimeter, because it's probably NOT the battery being crappy that's causing the car to die every night.
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Mar 29, 2015 21:17
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VelociBacon posted:That sounds a lot like a slipping clutch but because you JUST had a component of the hydraulic system replaced I'd want to make sure it's not a failed new part or something that wasn't put back together properly. A rebuilt master cylinder with a sketchy slave cylinder can cause the slave to pop internally, leaking hydraulic fluid all over the clutch plates. Fluid-covered dry clutches don't work that well.
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Apr 28, 2015 18:00
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taco_fox posted:Nope, the roads are pretty good here. I don't drive hard, either. She has 257,000 miles, so I treat her nice. You got a set of fine tires. My mother put a set of 80,000mi Michelins on from a Discount Tire back in the late 80s and hasn't paid full price for a set of tires since. They keep hitting wear bars at 50-60k (not unusual in the desert) and Discout Tire pro-rates them and gets her a new set. The warranty has transferred vehicles, too, by some kind of Discount Tire Customer Loyalty magic that I'm not too sure of.
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May 7, 2015 22:13
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LargeHadron posted:Last night I was rear-ended at a stoplight (wtf, I know). It felt like a decent bump, but neither car suffered any visible damage whatsoever, no paint, dents, nothing. Would reporting this accident to the insurance company mean that my rates would go up and/or would it affect my car's future resale value to have been reported as being in an accident? Also, am I legally required to report it in this case? Report it to your insurance in case the guy tries to do something stupid like claim his radiator is shot. No-fault no-damage reports won't do anything to your rates. Just make sure you're not making a claim: just a report.
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Jun 2, 2015 19:09
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jovial_cynic posted:This is the strangest electrical puzzle. Anybody have any ideas? Just looking at the electrical concepts and not knowing anything about these gauges specifically: There's more to signal than voltage. It seems like your sensor can't provide enough current to drive the gauge. See if you can't current-limit your voltage regulator to see if that's the problem. Alternatively, there may be a grounding or biasing issue when the gauge is powered such that its "0V" reference is actually higher, so the sensor's value never exceeds that. This would likely mean the gauge is busted. Could the power be hooked up wrong/backwards?
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Jun 15, 2015 15:25
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RillAkBea posted:Quick and easy stupid question: GO with slightly more expensive crimps with the heat-shrink already on them. Just because they've got plastic around them doesn't mean the plastic is heat-shrink.
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Jun 17, 2015 15:22
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I've got a '97 Olds 88 (Series II 3800 V6)@ 167kmi that developed a lifter tick. It was getting pretty loud, so I did an oil change with Pennzoil High-mileage. It's much quieter now, but it never goes away. It used to clear up after about 10 minutes of driving, but now it's always there at low RPM (idle). Oil additive time? Does it just need some piece of crud cleared out? Drive it at high speed for a while and let the oil thin and clear up the lifter passage?
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Jul 2, 2015 05:52
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BrokenKnucklez posted:Good news is these engines live with abuse pretty well. Try Marvel Mystery Oil and if that doesn't clear it up,you could go further in depth or just live with it. Well, I decided this was a problem that could live until after my trip, so I drove ~600 highway miles on it. At about 400, the check engine light came on. The car is noticeably down on power, and now it sounds like it's got rod knock. Of course nobody was open at 8pm on Sunday, so I said "I'll just drive until I window the block or start smelling funny things." The "knock" only occurs under acceleration. Is this a collapsed lifter, and am I right about to ruin the engine, or can I drive to the auto parts store to get stuff to repair this? How about getting the stuff needed from a junkyard?
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Jul 6, 2015 14:08
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Well, I decided this was a problem that could live until after my trip, so I drove ~600 highway miles on it. At about 400, the check engine light came on. The car is noticeably down on power, and now it sounds like it's got rod knock. Of course nobody was open at 8pm on Sunday, so I said "I'll just drive until I window the block or start smelling funny things." Quoting myself because reasons. More internet research and listening to the thing sounds EXACTLY like a collapsed lifter. What's my parts list for this thing? Lifters + rollers + cams? Just lifters and rollers? Anyone got a FSM for this repair?
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Jul 6, 2015 19:53
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Raluek posted:If it stays collapsed, the cam lobe is going to be smashing into the lifter (or, if the slack is elsewhere, there will still be shock loading) instead of a constant force on it. I can't imagine that's good for it, even though it's a nice forging. Ok. I found the parts on Rockauto. $5 each for a package of 16. I guess there's a reason they're sold in packs of 16 for a V6 engine. IOwnCalculus posted:It's possible the lifter is clacking because you have a trashed cam lobe. No way to know for sure until you break into the engine. Fundamentally, this is a $500 car that's gotta last me two months of around town (very infrequently) and then 1200miles. I'll put seafoam and mystery oil in it if that will extend the life of the motor out past that timeframe, or up to $500 in additional parts.
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Jul 7, 2015 06:23
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Mercury Ballistic posted:A general OBDII question: has anyone experienced a situation where their car is CEL free for extended periods, but after letting someone else drive CELs appear out of the ether? I have had this more than a few times with my truck. In one case the previous driver got them, then when I took over ownership they vanished. Any ideas? My wife's friend used to drive her car in a way that would cause the CEL to come on. We couldn't figure it out for the longest time. Then the CEL started coming on when we were driving it, too (months later), and it turned out it was a bad coil. We still don't know how she'd drive the thing so the CEL would come on, though.
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Jul 21, 2015 23:27
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Zorilla posted:I have an incredibly trivial question that nobody on the internet seems to be able to answer properly: Get a captive nut. You may find them at electrical supply houses. I've seen them for sale at aeronautical parts places for $10-15 each, but you don't need anything that crazy. If that's not working for you, you can get a clip-on nut and make a square hole next to your main hole and everything's captive and kosher. Of course, if you can get behind the bumper panel, just use a real nut.
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Aug 5, 2015 05:56
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Uthor posted:A minivan means you are tied to your family while an SUV means you can go anywhere! I drove my Astro plenty of places that people were scared to take their Explorers. My friend had a 4wd GMC Safari that went EVERYWHERE. Embrace the minivan.
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Aug 15, 2015 16:11
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Ok, I'm having something of a problem. I have a Dodge Intrepid with the 3.5L V6. It's throwing the P0353 (Ignition Coil C primary/secondary failure) code. The car runs/idles rough (like it's missing on one cylinder), and will occasionally throw a misfire cyl3/6/random code. I have done the following (as per the FSM): Inspected the ignition coil plug. Verified 12VDC from pin 1 to pin 3 (coil drive to return). Verified <1ohm resistance from pin 1 on coil pack plug to PCM pin 2. (PCM -> coil pack wire is good) Verified >5ohm resistance with PCM plugged in. (PCM drive circuit resistance nominal) Replaced spark plugs. Replaced spark plug wires. Replaced coil pack. (Old coil pack and new coil pack show similar resistances). Replaced PCM. The new PCM ran fine for ~30 seconds, then threw P0353, so there absolutely is a fault somewhere. There are (as far as I can tell) no other parts in this system. What else could possibly be the problem?
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May 8, 2016 20:55
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Christobevii3 posted:What year model of intrepid so I can look up if it has the horrid sideways distributor ran off the crankshaft?
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May 8, 2016 23:00
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Christobevii3 posted:What year model of intrepid so I can look up if it has the horrid sideways distributor ran off the crankshaft? babyeatingpsychopath posted:Ok, I'm having something of a problem. I have a Dodge Intrepid with the 3.5L V6. Any word?
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May 11, 2016 01:59
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Dominoes posted:P sure if I ask it's already decided! Also you're dodging the AoE thing SO HARD. Nope, you can call your agent and ask them what's up. Give them a rundown. There's a significant difference between "reporting" an incident and "claiming" an incident. My wife's mother hit a deer and called the agent to see what the deal was. Just for informational purposes. The agent gave the rundown, said rates wouldn't go up, etc, etc, and that with act-of-God type stuff, there's no deductible on the first incident in a rolling three-year period, so she ended up making a claim and getting her bumper replaced for free. This is a specific case with a specific insurance provider, but only you can determine if making the claim or just asking the agent a hypothetical question is worth your time and money.
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May 14, 2016 01:28
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Extra posted:other than it being ugly as gently caress is there anything wrong with a scion XB used to haul around a bunch of tools and get good MPG? It is completely breathless. The tiny engine gets good MPG only if you don't have more than 200lb of cargo, including driver. With four adults and some luggage, we were struggling for 26MPG city.
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May 27, 2016 02:28
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I have a 1997 Dodge Intrepid Sport (3.5l) w/ 140k that has some issue. It has a nasty resonant wobble in what seems like the passenger-side front wheel from 45-65mph. The wobble/vibration only happens when the transmission is in gear. The wobble seems to match wheel speed, not engine speed. When hard on the accelerator, the wobble begins around 30mph and is at its maximum around 55mph, then gets less, and there is nothing noticeable at 70mph. If I put the car in neutral, there's no wobble as it either accelerates up from 45-60, nor down from 60-40. It has recently gotten worse, and is now squeaking/chirping for a minute or so until it warms up. I put that corner up on jack stands, and the wheel doesn't rock any. The tie rod ends appear to be in good condition. The CV axle didn't move or wobble. The shock seemed normal, but there's no more rubber in the cup holding the bottom of the spring. There's sometimes a clunking as I turn a corner, and when the clunk happens, the wobble is worse for a bit. Any ideas?
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Apr 22, 2017 01:51
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:I have a 1997 Dodge Intrepid Sport (3.5l) w/ 140k that has some issue. It has a nasty resonant wobble in what seems like the passenger-side front wheel from 45-65mph. The wobble/vibration only happens when the transmission is in gear. The wobble seems to match wheel speed, not engine speed. When hard on the accelerator, the wobble begins around 30mph and is at its maximum around 55mph, then gets less, and there is nothing noticeable at 70mph. If I put the car in neutral, there's no wobble as it either accelerates up from 45-60, nor down from 60-40. It has recently gotten worse, and is now squeaking/chirping for a minute or so until it warms up. I put that corner up on jack stands, and the wheel doesn't rock any. The tie rod ends appear to be in good condition. The CV axle didn't move or wobble. The shock seemed normal, but there's no more rubber in the cup holding the bottom of the spring. There's sometimes a clunking as I turn a corner, and when the clunk happens, the wobble is worse for a bit. Followup: I took it into the shop. Both CV joints and axles were completely thrashed. There's also no rubber left in the subframe bushings in the front end. The subframe bushings are what's causing the clunk. Unfortunately, those aren't stocked, so I ordered a set from rockauto and will do them myself.
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Apr 23, 2017 00:42
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1985 Toyota Pickup, unknown mileage on the donor 22R engine. Completed the engine swap over the weekend and everything's fine except the truck won't deliver power once warmed up. When cold, it drives OK. Idle is initially a bit rough, but smooths out with a bit of throttle. Once warm (coolant temp > 140) then anytime you give throttle, when it goes back down to idle it stalls. If you try to hold anything other than medium throttle, the engine speed changes then dies. We even took the coolant sensor off the old motor and hung it in a glass of icewater. Once warm, the thing still doesn't idle for anything. It's also SUPER hard to start when warm. It'll turn over, but not catch. All the electrical checks good: TPS, airflow, coolant temp, bypass air valve, vacuum switch valve, start injector switch. Brand new oxygen sensor, plugs, wires, coil (I think). Cleaned the injectors. Good fuel pressure. I cannot figure this one out. Anywhere to look?
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Jul 6, 2017 11:40
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Elsa posted:I see a lot of google hits about the EGR staying open at operating temperature and causing a stall. Is that the air bypass valve? That one is opening cold and closing hot. Also, EFI on this motor.
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Jul 6, 2017 23:40
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Elsa posted:Yeah and the google hits involve faulty vacuum lines or bad routing to it. Ok. I'll have a look at the air bypass valve. I'm pretty sure it opens/shuts based on a signal from the computer based on coolant temp. The fuel pump relay wiring was spotty and the relay base was cracked, so now there's a switch on the dash for the fuel pump.
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Jul 7, 2017 03:21
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Elysium posted:So my car got a big crack in the windshield from a rock or something on the highway. I asked my insurance guy how they handle this and he gave me the number of their glass people. I wanted to take it to the dealership because of the eyesight system in my 2022 outback and they weren’t on the list of shops. Anyway, they did whatever they do and they said they will cut me a check for $1400. I asked them if the check was going to Subaru or direct to me and they said to me. If your insurance is cutting you a check for the repair, they're dealing with you. If you're talking to the shop, they're dealing with you. Since the shop isn't dealing with the insurance, then you take the shop's "dealing with you" rate and pocket the difference. This is how insurance works sometimes. Occasionally, you'll get lucky and insurance will pay you more than the repair costs. Frequently not, though. "Insurance fraud" is telling the shop to make sure it's a $1700 repair so the insurance cuts them/you a $1700 check then they charge you $950 and you split the difference with the shop.
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Sep 23, 2023 03:25
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