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Crash74 posted:It will go back and forth the entire stroke left / right. Yeah, I'd say you've broken a tie rod/drag link, or separated the tie rod end. Can you get a pic of the backside of the wheel?
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# ¿ Mar 4, 2016 17:38 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 08:18 |
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I'm sure it boils down to ease of assembly on the production line.
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2016 15:39 |
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I learned a thing.
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# ¿ Mar 16, 2016 16:18 |
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Yep, they're drill stops to attach to a bit when you want to drill into something to a certain depth, rather than drilling through it.
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# ¿ Aug 9, 2016 20:01 |
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SperginMcBadposter posted:Does anyone have a link to the big effortpost about replacing battery terminal clamps that was in here? Mine are eaten up by corrosion. Here's one
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# ¿ Aug 10, 2016 17:04 |
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scuz posted:What I'm most confused about is the interactions between items numbered 4, 6, and 7. It's either/or. Either the rods have pressed-in bolts (4) and nuts (6), or the caps have bolts that thread into the rods (7).
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# ¿ Sep 6, 2016 18:45 |
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Not without consulting someone familiar with your particular engine.
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# ¿ Sep 6, 2016 19:11 |
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Rhyno posted:I seen to recall Ford Escape possibly being terrible?
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# ¿ Sep 23, 2016 13:41 |
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Skunkrocker posted:Come on, someone here has got to know what in the gently caress is going on with this transmission! I really don't want this truck to break down. I don't have an answer for you (automatic transmissions are black magic)...just want you to know you're not being ignored.
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# ¿ Nov 3, 2016 22:52 |
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^ They do not.
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# ¿ Nov 14, 2016 20:29 |
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Nothing from Dorman, either.
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# ¿ Nov 14, 2016 21:09 |
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melon cat posted:It isn't leaking air Don't worry about it.
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# ¿ Nov 23, 2016 16:07 |
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A $20 JY battery should do the trick.
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# ¿ Nov 25, 2016 15:55 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:I feel like I'm missing something because I don't see/hear anything unusual in that video. It hangs at 2500rpm (0:04).
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# ¿ Aug 8, 2017 22:13 |
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http://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/toyota,2013,tacoma,2.7l+l4,3015099,exhaust+&+emission,catalytic+converter,5808 (if you're not in CA or NY)
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# ¿ Aug 17, 2017 14:26 |
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The last I remember reading from Phil, he got a divorce and was embracing his swingin' single lifestyle, going to the gym and whatnot. I think the Mustang was being worked on at an inlaws' garage and he had to move it out? (Someone please correct me as necessary.)
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# ¿ Sep 29, 2017 13:33 |
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My rates sure as gently caress didn't drop when I turned 21/25/whatever (with no claims or tickets).
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# ¿ Oct 30, 2017 19:12 |
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Steering rack? WTF?
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# ¿ Oct 31, 2017 22:29 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:Given the empty hose barb there, Totally missed that
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# ¿ Oct 31, 2017 23:13 |
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It came from the factory with sealant, not a gasket.
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# ¿ Nov 2, 2017 04:42 |
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kid sinister posted:So I've been researching my oil leak, how an engine can leak oil out the back after the RMS has been replaced. Is anyone here familiar with Ford 302s? According to what I've found on the interwebs, one common result for failed PCV valves is to also blow out the back of the lower intake gasket, which just so happens to be right above the RMS. Does that sound right? I've replaced the upper intake gasket a few times, but I've never done the lower. It looked like too much work in my book. Yep. Ford used cork intake end gaskets, which tended to push out from under the manifold and leak. E: replace them with a fat bead of RTV. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Nov 22, 2017 |
# ¿ Nov 22, 2017 23:04 |
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Friend has a 2013 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport, 2.0 I4, CVT. Partsgeek lists a few direct-fit cats.
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# ¿ Dec 16, 2017 16:15 |
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Wrong year, wrong model. Hers is a 2013 Outlander Sport (which is different than the Outlander), not a 2003 Outlander. Wow, I really need to learn to read. Sorry for the false alarm.
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# ¿ Dec 17, 2017 01:24 |
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`Nemesis posted:I think you have a bad electrical ground somewhere. Seconded. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l734h_SThcA
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# ¿ Feb 25, 2018 19:18 |
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Door check.
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# ¿ Mar 20, 2018 06:13 |
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There should be a small cylindrical spring that wraps around the choke shaft and rotates the choke open. It could be broken or dislodged.
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# ¿ May 27, 2018 01:35 |
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http://www.draw-tite.com/products/trailer-hitches/class-i-1-1-4-hitch/class-i-trailer-hitch/WfzaCtfZMf25wM9znIGUwk2Q3LHwhKe8 https://www.lowes.com/pd/Carry-On-Trailer-3-5-ft-x-5-ft-Wire-Mesh-Utility-Trailer/3680952 I was going to link to the utility trailer from Harbor Freight, but they've apparently been pulled due to non-DOT-compliant tires. E: You'll also need a ~$65 wiring harness/converter. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 17:45 on May 27, 2018 |
# ¿ May 27, 2018 17:42 |
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https://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html 12 Battery or computer recently disconnected (will occur on most cars most of the time, it indicates a low / missing battery happened in the last 50 key starts.) 47 Battery voltage too low and alternator output too low 55 End of codes Your alternator/voltage regulator is probably dying. Check for loose wiring connections first.
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# ¿ May 27, 2018 18:55 |
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Intermittent electrical problems are a bitch.
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# ¿ May 27, 2018 19:14 |
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Nevermind, I'm high.
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# ¿ May 27, 2018 23:42 |
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KakerMix posted:1991 Toyota Land Cruiser Prado with the 2L-T turbo diesel 4 cyl engine, JDM. Wow, I thought only Chrysler did that. You have to ask for a "matched set", for obvious reasons.
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# ¿ Jun 12, 2018 01:44 |
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dis astranagant posted:Is it normal for belt noise to just go away? drat thing's been squealing like Deliverance all month and suddenly nothing. If coolant was spilled on it and then eventually burned off, yes.
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# ¿ Jun 15, 2018 00:41 |
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Okay, Honda experts: I've got a 2002 Civic EX sedan with 2 ganked front wheel studs. What's the secret to replacing them without dismantling the knuckle/hub? E: nm, tore it apart and did it right. balljoint boot. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Jun 23, 2018 |
# ¿ Jun 23, 2018 14:13 |
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spankmeister posted:What about going to a local junkyard and pulling the parts ? Those are GM parts-bin belts, should be easy enough to source.
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# ¿ Jul 12, 2018 14:48 |
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ExecuDork posted:/\/\/\ GM =!= Jeep. Pham is looking for Chrysler Corporation parts-bins. It's an AMC-era CJ, they're GM belts. E: ExecuDork, it looks like you need one of these. Dagen H fucked around with this message at 15:32 on Jul 12, 2018 |
# ¿ Jul 12, 2018 15:06 |
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As long as the float/needle/seat are working properly, fuel delivery should stop when the float bowl is full. You can remove a large vacuum line (PCV/power brakes) to reduce vacuum enough to prevent fuel from being drawn in when the engine turns over. You'll get an accelerator pump shot when you open the throttle, but that should be it. (Run the test with the throttle wide open so the engine gets max airflow for accurate results.) Also lol carbed Iron Duke
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# ¿ Jul 19, 2018 17:04 |
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Pham Nuwen posted:I could probably borrow my friend's Dremel and cut off the edges of the bolt for a wrench Yes Also penetrating oil
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# ¿ Jul 25, 2018 15:35 |
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https://www.txdmv.gov/motorcarriers/low-clearance/item/1771-austin-district-structures-with-low-vertical-clearance
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# ¿ Jul 29, 2018 14:15 |
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2002 Civic EX, D17A2, 4AT. It cold-starts/runs/drives fine, but if run up to temp then allowed to heat-soak for 5-15 minutes, it won't run under load. Any attempt to accelerate causes it to cough, sputter, and die. It sounds to me like fuel, but I just installed a new Delphi pump module this spring. I also don't get the heat-soak connection. Thoughts?
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# ¿ Jul 30, 2018 22:05 |
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# ¿ Apr 29, 2024 08:18 |
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Lost in filterchat:Dagen H posted:2002 Civic EX, D17A2, 4AT. It cold-starts/runs/drives fine, but if run up to temp then allowed to heat-soak for 5-15 minutes, it won't run under load. Any attempt to accelerate causes it to cough, sputter, and die. It sounds to me like fuel, but I just installed a new Delphi pump module this spring. I also don't get the heat-soak connection. Thoughts?
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# ¿ Jul 31, 2018 12:40 |